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First water hunt with CTX

DeepseekerADS

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Location
SW, VA - Bull Mountain
Detector(s) used
CTX, Excal II, EQ800, Fisher 1260X, Tesoro Royal Sabre, Tejon, Garrett ADSIII, Carrot, Stealth 920iX, Keene A52
Primary Interest:
Other
Indian Steve and I went to two beaches on the lake today. I took my CTX and the new Stealth scoop.

That scoop is a beast! I went for the reinforced rod mounting (we dig in mud here), picked up a post hole digger handle - strong, and it floats the scoop upright.

I didn't submerge the CTX, have replaced the o-ring, haven't done the USB port yet. It was the first time I submerged the coil. I found it a constant effort to keep the CTX coil on the bottom. I think I need to look into some sort of weight to keep the coil down.

I still really haven't decided what I'm going to do with the headphone outlet - looks like I need to pick up that connector = references I've seen point me to Europe for the source. I'm not going to scuba, the available headphones with that connection receive low quality sound reviews and do not have individual controls - and they are darned expensive. Frog gave us a solution on this issue which I haven't researched yet.

At the second beach we hit, that sand was heavily tracked and I liked the looks of that. So, Steve used the scoop, and I hit the sand.

I found a total of $0.01 - that's ONE CENT on that beach = aarrgghh!!!!!

At least the tops of my feet are sunburned!

Wouldn't have gotten that sitting here typing!
 
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Only $ 2,498.00 to go...if it's there, the ctx will find it.. I've been hunting my tail off and have recouped maybe 200.00 so far. Only takes that ONE find . So I keep telling myself anyways.
 
Try a sock with sand inside as ballast, wrapped and tied to the coil wand just above the coil. That should help with the buoyant coil wanting to rise off the bottom.
 
Anderson shafts makes coil weights - don't know if make one for ctx???
 
Notice the little hole in the hand grip? Once you get that handle submerged, loosen up on your grip.....water will force the air out and then it is easier to keep on the bottom.... don't be afraid to dunk the machine...... the machine is still slightly buoyant but it is a near neutral buoyancy once the air comes out....quite easy to control when submerged unless you put on one of those Coiltek 5x10's......those coils (unless changed from the originals) float like a bobber!

Cliff
 
Anderson shafts makes coil weights - don't know if make one for ctx???

I've heard that Pete was thinking of developing a diving shaft for the CTX... not sure there will be a gain.. when retracted CTX is ok & upper / down shaft are already in Carbon Fiber..
 
Make sure to tighten the thread that's on the back of the ctx screen. Then snug up the cap with a gasket. Hhgl-Joe




Indian Steve and I went to two beaches on the lake today. I took my CTX and the new Stealth scoop.

That scoop is a beast! I went for the reinforced rod mounting (we dig in mud here), picked up a post hole digger handle - strong, and it floats the scoop upright.

I didn't submerge the CTX, have replaced the o-ring, haven't done the USB port yet. It was the first time I submerged the coil. I found it a constant effort to keep the CTX coil on the bottom. I think I need to look into some sort of weight to keep the coil down.

I still really haven't decided what I'm going to do with the headphone outlet - looks like I need to pick up that connector = references I've seen point me to Europe for the source. I'm not going to scuba, the available headphones with that connection receive low quality sound reviews and do not have individual controls - and they are darned expensive. Frog gave us a solution on this issue which I haven't researched yet.

At the second beach we hit, that sand was heavily tracked and I liked the looks of that. So, Steve used the scoop, and I hit the sand.

I found a total of $0.01 - that's ONE CENT on that beach = aarrgghh!!!!!

At least the tops of my feet are sunburned!

Wouldn't have gotten that sitting here typing!
 
Notice the little hole in the hand grip? Once you get that handle submerged, loosen up on your grip.....water will force the air out and then it is easier to keep on the bottom.... Cliff

Excellent tip! Had not heard of this yet. Thanks :)
 
Make sure to tighten the thread that's on the back of the ctx screen. Then snug up the cap with a gasket. Hhgl-Joe

You can also use Teflon plumbers tape on the threads for the USB cap....
 
You can also use Teflon plumbers tape on the threads for the USB cap....

I hadn't thought of that! Will do....

A confessional here, holding that coil on the bottom did kinda wear me out in the water. More frustration than fatigue. There appears a couple solutions, I'll try the venting first.

But, it did benefit Steve since he got to use the scoop, and he posted his results on the Stealth scoop thread ..... I don't kick myself thinking one of those rings could have been mine, just part of the adventure!
 
You can also use Teflon plumbers tape on the threads for the USB cap....

No, I have tested a its not a decent solution


The USB ring is not the solution either, actually since 40/50 dives I use a thread sealant and fill the remaining gap with waterproof outboard engine grease.

ctx-usb-cap3.webp
 
Frog, again, the CTX is not a dive detector, teflon works for what the detector is deigned for which is 10 feet or less....99% are using it to wade...
 
Frog, again, the CTX is not a dive detector, teflon works for what the detector is deigned for which is 10 feet or less....99% are using it to wade...

:occasion14: hello TH.

2 years ago, I had this idea of PTFC tape from a UK member. I've tried it not for diving but for hunting in the wade and had a leak:

1/ there is not enough thread length
2/ there is a flat spot on the plug which can't be waterproofed

=> the use of a thread sealant helps the cap to remain firmly locked
=> firmly locked = waterproofed pressure with the inside rubber

The add of engine grease is an extra security and prevents sand from coming inside the remaining gap.
 
:occasion14: hello TH.

2 years ago, I had this idea of PTFC tape from a UK member. I've tried it not for diving but for hunting in the wade and had a leak:

1/ there is not enough thread length
2/ there is a flat spot on the plug which can't be waterproofed

=> the use of a thread sealant helps the cap to remain firmly locked
=> firmly locked = waterproofed pressure with the inside rubber

The add of engine grease is an extra security and prevents sand from coming inside the remaining gap.

How many times did you wrap it around the threads, some people barely wrap it 2 times ( not talking CTX), threads need to be wrapped multiple times when using plumbers Teflon tape....
 
TH, teflon tape needs to be wrap 3 times usually.

IMGP2229.webp

What ever the number of turns you will be able to make, the flat spot will prevent the tape to waterproof the cap alone.

THE ONLY WAY to waterproof the USB cap is to make it remain firmly locked and pushing the inside rubber which IS the waterproofing piece.
 
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Frog, again, the CTX is not a dive detector, teflon works for what the detector is deigned for which is 10 feet or less....99% are using it to wade...

why under-kill, when you can simply over-kill and have confidence?
 
TH needs to be "politically correct" .... big money is watching....

We all make our mind.. at the end of the day you will be the one in the water risking your $2500 detector if it is out of warranty...
 
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Good thing they don't know the name behind the screen name .
 
I'm just giving a word to the wise is all, what you do is your choice.

I know for a fact Minelab is monitoring the forums. A pressure sensor 1/4 the size of a postage stamp can be installed on a mother board for less than a couple dollars that would tell them if the 3030 warranty is being violated.....
 

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