Getting Started

Thanks for the welcome everyone! I did finally finish my first box and only found that one coin. I've seen people talk about other things to look for in other posts when I get the chance to scan through them but is there a compilation of "flaws" or other identifiable marks that we should keep an eye out for? It's possible I missed it in the stickys and if so, I apologize. I'd like to keep my eye peeled for other possible candidates that may turn into $$. Thanks again!

Ooops, silly me. I went back to re-read the sticky up above and it lists some of the things to watch out for with the coins. Maybe it just didn't "stick" with me as I wasn't actually looking at the time! So...went back and started looking again and I found a 2003 coin. What is so special about these "not meant for circulation" after 2001? Are they worth anything extra or something? Thanks yet again! Back to re-looking at my coins!
 

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They are only worth what someone is willing to pay for them. Sometimes you can find someone interested in paying a small premium for them but a lot of times you won't. Some keep them on here & others release them back to the wild. What part of FL are you from? (assuming the FL stands for Florida that is)
 

I am wondering how to get bank rolled coin rolls, versus hand rolled ones. I went to several banks and seem to be getting nothing else but other CRHs leftovers. Is there any way to order them like straight from the mint or where ever they come from?

sincerely, Garoulady
 

... What is so special about these "not meant for circulation" after 2001? Are they worth anything extra or something?...
The NIFC halves are not really worth any premium. Some hunters keep them for speculation. Some hunters ignore them. Some hunters call other hunters names and ridicule them for keeping them.

Don't expect to make a profit off of keeping them. If that is what the hobby is to you, stick to searching for Ag, key dates, errors. If you want to keep a few for fun, do it. You can always change your mind later and dump them for face value.

I keep the ones that I find by accident. Like a lot of hunters, I edge search and so I only see NIFCs by chance. I don't try to sell them. I mostly give them to ppl as a novelty - mostly to friends or acquaintances whose kids have those birth years. It is just for fun.

In any event, don't let the wannabe bullies around here tell you that you aren't allowed to have fun with the hobby. Do it how it feels right to you. Let them wallow in their pitiful state of unhappiness that makes them feel like the only good thing that can come from the hobby is more ounces of PM.
 

I am wondering how to get bank rolled coin rolls, versus hand rolled ones. I went to several banks and seem to be getting nothing else but other CRHs leftovers. Is there any way to order them like straight from the mint or where ever they come from?

sincerely, Garoulady


What bank/credit union are you asking at? Check at banks in your area that would handle change orders for local retail establishments. Often time at least what tellers have told me is they do not like to give out CWR in change orders because they cannot be sure the rolls are not short. I do not know how true that is or not what I do know is they cannot afford to not have change for the business customers so they order coins to keep stocked in their vault, to fill change orders.

Check at Chase, BofA, Wells Fargo, Capital One, US Bank CitiBank or any of the larger banks in your area that would regularly deal with business customers. Tell them you do not want CWR for the reason I mentioned above. The larger banks often do not ask if you are a customer before selling change unlike small local banks. If you buy 10 boxes of dimes they may question you, however.

If you want brand new coins you can actually buy them from the US Mint in rolls I think, or banks can order them for you if they want to from the Fed for you but there in a cost I believe to order new rolls from the fed. They may or may not ask you to pick up that cost.
 

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I understand the concept of "edge searching"; I was looking at the edges of each roll before I started looking at each one individually. I would have missed the 1967 I found if I was doing edge searching only, probably because I didn't completely know what I was looking for. If I put it back into a roll and edge search again (now that I know what I'm looking for), I probably would have still missed it. Practice...practice...practice...!!

Two more questions: one web site I visited seems to suggest that there are many, seemingly common ones I'm sure I've seen, (see about.coins.com) that are worth anywhere from $1 on up to $2.50 and more, presumably if you can find someone to buy them for that price. Is there any "truth to the rumor" there? Seems like an "easy" way to double your money or more.

Second: in my search through my first box, I found a 1972 D that has a golden sheen to it. First one I've seen with this coloration. Anything special about it that anyone knows about? Or is it just a particular mix of materials that make up the coin?

Thanks for everyone's replies so far!

Oh and for Mrs. CRH - the FL does stand for Florida. I'm up in Panama City in the panhandle!
 

I understand the concept of "edge searching"; I was looking at the edges of each roll before I started looking at each one individually. I would have missed the 1967 I found if I was doing edge searching only, probably because I didn't completely know what I was looking for. If I put it back into a roll and edge search again (now that I know what I'm looking for), I probably would have still missed it. Practice...practice...practice...!!
Odds are, some 40%'ers get away from some edge searchers. When I started, I would edge search for the quick thrill and then date search for '87s, NIFCs, Balbo's, etc. Through that exercise, I found that up to that point, I never missed any 40% Kens. After a number of months of that, I reverted entirely to edge searching. I'm ok with missing whatever 40% Kens get away because of the rhythm I have now. I don't believe that it is very many and what I don't know don't hurt me (in this context anyway).

If you are enjoying the hunt, don't change a thing.

Two more questions: one web site I visited seems to suggest that there are many, seemingly common ones I'm sure I've seen, (see about.coins.com) that are worth anywhere from $1 on up to $2.50 and more, presumably if you can find someone to buy them for that price. Is there any "truth to the rumor" there? Seems like an "easy" way to double your money or more.

Those values are complete fallacy. You might be able to sell some full rolls at a yard sale or on CL for a premium, but nowhere near 2x-5x face.

Second: in my search through my first box, I found a 1972 D that has a golden sheen to it. First one I've seen with this coloration. Anything special about it that anyone knows about? Or is it just a particular mix of materials that make up the coin?

It is probably plated. It is quite common to find clad (or even Ag) halves that have a couple microns of Au plating. Nothing special about it. If you find it interesting, keep it as a novelty. You can always change your mind later and drop it into the coin counter for face.
 

Thanks for the info madwest. That's what I was thinking about the values I found listed; if it's too good to be true, everyone would be doing it!

I should pick up my next box late today or tomorrow. Something to do over the weekend if I get bored with other things!
 

I went to my credit union, members credit union in michigan and Northwestern bank. I have asked at our local chase bank and they say that they didn't have any. I have a freind who I was going to ask to pick up some halves from Honor State Bank in Lake anne. It was the same bank I got lost over trying to find. So I am going to give her the money and she'll pick them up.

Sincerely, Garoulady
 

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