I Found A Locked Safe, and Have No Idea How To Get Inside of It!

I guess your still trying to get this puppy open? If you don't mind destroying the safe a hand full small cutoff wheels from harbor freight and the air grinder will do the job.

Or just drill a 1/4" hole on the face next to the dial at the 2 o'clock position. so you can see where the gates line up. Them fill the hole with JB weld, the same thing works on master locks (but drill from the back side), but for them I prefer the rubber hammer and and rope to keep it under tension during the strike to open them (at this point you need do do a little math to get the master lock combo).
 

Big magnets work on some also Chug
 

Drop it out the 2nd story window now try a wedge and a 10 lb sledge hammer


Just open it soon
 

Find a local meth head scrapper and give him 5 bucks to open it. He'll have it open in 3 mins. flat.
 

I wouldn't of been able to stand it and would have turned it into can slaw with my hydrolic wood splitter. Maybe you could bring it to some kind of metal shop. I am surprised a drill and metal saw didn't work. Good luck!
 

If this was the 1970's when I was in the U.S. Army and in 2nd Battlion, 33rd Armored (an Armored Tank Unit) in the 1st Brigade, 3rd Armored Division, we would have that thing open in a jiffy!:laughing7:


Frank
 

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I agree with the angle grinder approach. Did that to a safe that was given to me. Sentry and other inexpensive homeowner Fire safes typically have very thin metal on the inner and outer walls with a fireproof medium sandwiched in between. Sometimes it's fireproof sheetrock (gypsum board), and sometimes it's a moisture laden material that's designed to give off wet fumes while just sitting 24/7, and definitely when heated during a fire so as to protect your objects by bathing them in moisture (don't put guns in a fire safe...they will rust). The inner and outer walls are often not much thicker than a couple of sheets of paper, believe it or not. The harbor freight grinder approach is probably your least expensive approach. If the walls are thicker than normal, you can always return the grinder, and you are only out a few bucks for the replaceable grinding wheel/disc.
 

Looks like no suggestions have worked. I'll try another.
Take silicone and seal the crack's on the hinge side.
Get some molding clay and pack a 2" tall dam all around the hinge.
Fill the pond you have made full of liquid nitrogen.
Let it sit a few min.'s.
Drain off excess liquid nitrogen.
Hit the hinge with a sledge hammer. It should shatter the hinge.
Please use proper safety equipment and have adult supervision.
Good luck.
 

Your not in yet? Geezz! What kind of safe cracker are you? :laughing7: Get a big hammer (BFH) and get mean with it!! Show it who's the boss! :laughing7:

Take a drill and just start drilling in a circle on the side or back Like a 6in circle, perforating it.........I think it was mentioned in the thread already, but it will get you in. You'll have to drill and pick at it...

Get mean!! You'll get it!! :occasion14:
 

Drop it out the 2nd story window now try a wedge and a 10 lb sledge hammer


Just open it soon

Yes!! A 20lb sledge and hit the center of that door until something gives! :laughing7: Swing it on your tippy toes to get a couple extra in., Pretend your trying to pound that door to China! :laughing7: It will go! :laughing7:
 

My manager at work finally opened hers Yep wedge and the 10 pound Hammer did the Trick Some one willing to hold the wedge for the First 10 Hits 20 later it popped open
 

Find a locksmith? Honestly, I don't know how to get it open. 10 pound sledge and/or acetylene torch could work. Torch might burn up what's inside.

You're apparently going to have to spend some money to get it open. I'd go with a locksmith if you haven't already tried the manufacturer.
 

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whats-in-the-box.webp
 

Well THAT SUCKED! but at least I know now lol

 

Well you got your safe open!, and your no locksmith or a safecracker, maybe safebreaker! my jewels are still safe:occasion14:
 

oh that vid was worth the wait LOL
 

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