looking for jewelry

skeeter86

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I like the Tesoro Tiger Shark as its also water proof to 200 feet when you get in the water. Check disc on white and yellow gold on shore. If you disc out pull tabs you'll miss 90% of rings. It can sound off on earring backs.:thumbsup:
 

Sandman... you like the TTS ? this is a pulse... correct ?
 

LOOK INTO THE AT PRO - SOUNDS WHAT YOURE LOOKIN FOR
 

Tesoro Tiger Shark is the one to get!
 

Sandman... you like the TTS ? this is a pulse... correct ?

AARC, No the Tiger Shark is the VLF. Your thinking of the Sand Shark which is a PI.:thumbsup:
 

You never advised if a waterproof detector is needed, I would suggest the Teknetiks G2. Very hot on small to medium gold.
 

Any detector that describes the shape of a signal, that uses concentric coils, that has a proper all metal mode. Some Tesoros (I recommend a golden), MXT may be good, Dues may be good.
 

General purpose, fresh water beach only, waterproof, these would be my choice for new machines with best listed first and if money is a factor.....
#1 Garrett AT Pro
#2 Garrett AT Gold
If price is not a factor
#1 Minelab CTX
#2 Minelab Etrac (if you don't need it to be waterproof)
#3 Minelab Explorer SE " " " " " " "
#4 XP Deus " " ": : : : ":
For a more specialized water machine with discrimination
#1 Minelab Excalibur
#2 Fisher CZ21
#3 Whites Beachhunter I.D.
Water machine without discrimination (PI type)
#1 Garrett Infinium LS
#2 Whites Dual Field
#3 Tesoro Tiger Shark (for fresh water only)
#4 Tesoro Sand Shark (for fresh or salt water)
#5 Garrett Sea Hunter
#6 J.W. Fishers Pulse 8x
This list assumes you are physically able to swing the heavier machines and that you can dig the deep targets some machines will find.
 

The tiger shark is a great fresh water machine, very sensitive to chains and tiny pieces of gold. And it has a lifetime warranty which has saved me hundreds of dollars
 

I do a lot of inland jewelry hunting and my first choice is always my Garrett AT-Gold, as it's very hot on gold jewelry, has great audio feedback, and excellent target separation. After the first 80-100 hours with it, coupled with Grey Ghost Ultimate headphones I became able to tell with about 80% (or better) accuracy between a gold ring and a pull-tab, which needless to say is a huge advantage. The great thing about hunting for jewelry (besides the jewelry) is that you also vacuum up all the coins, tokens, etc.
 

I do a lot of inland jewelry hunting and my first choice is always my Garrett AT-Gold, as it's very hot on gold jewelry, has great audio feedback, and excellent target separation. After the first 80-100 hours with it, coupled with Grey Ghost Ultimate headphones I became able to tell with about 80% (or better) accuracy between a gold ring and a pull-tab, which needless to say is a huge advantage. The great thing about hunting for jewelry (besides the jewelry) is that you also vacuum up all the coins, tokens, etc.
How does that work? To tell whether the accuracy is 80%, you would have to dig everything to verify. If you're digging everything, who cares how accurate it is, unless you're just playing a guessing game while detecting. If you're now ignoring the 20%, you're likely missing good targets at a 1 in 5 rate.
 

How does that work? To tell whether the accuracy is 80%, you would have to dig everything to verify. If you're digging everything, who cares how accurate it is, unless you're just playing a guessing game while detecting. If you're now ignoring the 20%, you're likely missing good targets at a 1 in 5 rate.

I go by both the target ID and the sound it makes -- modern pull-tabs ID’s jump ALL over the place when you scan at a 90-degree angle (on the Garrett AT-Gold and AT-Pro), and have a distinct "whine" to them (through Grey Ghost Ultimate headphones). Unless the tabs are on their side, folded in half, or cut in two, those and one or two brands that must be of a different alloy, they still fool me. I DO verify, just to be "sure," and every time I thought it was a pull-tab (modern) it has been; several thousand tabs and no jewelry or nickels (that behaved or sounded like I’ve found jewelry does), before I was confident that method was solid. The new Monster tabs and the old round "real" tabs come in like rings or a gold pendant, and not only ID solid, but sound solid too.

When I pulled an aluminum ring right beside a modern pull-tab I realized I was on to something good, as I knew it (the ring) wasn't a tab, even though it ID'ed JUST like a tab (same number), minus the jumpy target ID and it didn't have the same whine; it sounded more solid. I even found two bent up junk rings and one broken one; they still were solid, both in their ID and in their sound. Nickels are solid, and sound solid too, although for some reason some of them can give off a "growly" sound, as can some gold wrapped pendants, but again, they don't sound like a modern pull-tab...
 

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So, in other words, if your machine says the target is bad, it's always bad, but, if it says the target is good, it sometimes is bad? You've never had a bad reading turn out to be good? When your machine says "whiny" pull tab, you ignore it?
 

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