ProScoop...flex fix.

[Montauk3]

The latest try seems to eliminate the flexing of the top screen.
Using 1/4"x20 threaded S.S rod, and locking nuts.

Using the forward most "hole" in the bracket as the locator, I inserted the rod and attached the nut to the top portion of the scoop. Then added the bottom nut to the curved portion of the bottom. I feel it is most important that it is not tightened too much.

we don't want to "crush" the curved part, just use a delicate touch to remove the slack.
Then just a tweak to preload the rod.

Comments or ideas please.

 

[S.S.Tupperware]

Probably give ya a lil more strength if you could move the bolt further up to the front of the top section where your handle is attached. Does the screen flex that much without it?

 

[extractor]

The scoop looks $$$ . I think I would take it to a local weld shop and get the handle bracket welded in place to the basket. The bolt looks like it might eventual distort the basket.

 

[Montauk3]

Probably give ya a lil more strength if you could move the bolt further up to the front of the top section where your handle is attached. Does the screen flex that much without it?

The bolt is as far forward as possible. The flex without the bolt is not much, but it will over time, fatigue the weld.

With the bolt in place it does not flex at all.

P.S.
Unless a person has a ham fist, it's no problem getting to targets in the bottom of the scoop.

 

[niffler]

Maybe cut a SS tube to fit over the bolt inside the scoop, so it can tighten only just so much...I do this all the time when working on sailboat masts and booms. Niffler

 

[Montauk3]

The scoop looks $$$ . I think I would take it to a local weld shop and get the handle bracket welded in place to the basket. The bolt looks like it might eventual distort the basket.

If the bracket were welded to the top screen it would still flex.
The bolt in effect, ties the top screen to the radius of the bottom portion. Because an arc or radius is more ridged then a straight line, the top screen is restricted in movement.

As with any tool, Know the limits of that tool. Would I try to pry a large rock with it?
Of course not, I would use a pry bar.

Thanks for the comments.

 

[Montauk3]

Maybe cut a SS tube to fit over the bolt inside the scoop, so it can tighten only just so much...I do this all the time when working on sailboat masts and booms. Niffler

Another good idea. Thanks.

 

[NEBeachcomber]

Why not have an 1/8" thick by 1" wide strip of stainless steel welded to the interior of the basket?

First, shape the strip to match the curved shape of the basket, then weld this strip from the bottom of the uppermost support portion on one side of the basket... down across the bottom of the basket... and back up the other side to the opposite side of uppermost support. (Doing this should provide 360 degrees of support around the interior of your scoop.) This should make the middle area of the basket more rigid, reduce flexing, and prevent any undue strain to the support portion of the basket caused by adding a bolt. It will also remove the space restriction caused by the bolt running down the middle of your scoop basket therefore making it easier for you to put your hand into your scoop and recover your finds.

Of course... should you chose to try this you do so at your own risk!
And, should you chose to make this modification you will be obligated to let the forum members know how it worked out!


-NEBeachcomber

 

[Sandman]

I like your scoop but around here I have to many shells and small rocks to sift with those holes. I love the attachment however. Only goes to show that we might need more than one scoop too if we keep going to other beaches. Besides it is fun to tinker.