Treasure Chests

Now that I think about it, It might be a good idea to acquire or at least investigate the hardware options. Chest size meh vary depending on hardware available, or rethink things.
If you want to go with reclaimed/period hardware then it's almost certain that you need to locate and acquire that first. Otherwise you could finish the chest and spend the next 20 years looking for hardware to fit it. If you go with wood, the curved top is going to be the hardest part of the chest to make. Short of finding a log with the perfect diameter and grain you want, you will probably have to apply a nice veneer to a material that can be curved to the extent you desire. The downside of that is that any material that can be curved easily will also not be that strong. The way around that would be to use either aluminum or sheet metal, curve it to the shape required and then apply the veneer to both sides of that. The appearance will be that of wood, but the structure will have the strength of metal. Based on the dimensions you provided, I think 3/8" wood stock would be perfect. And with period hardware, you should also go with period joints. That means no nails or screws on the joints, and hammered rivets only on the hardware. Wood joints would look good with dovetails. If you don't put the bottom planking flush with the sides you can go with a dado joint around the side planks, 1/4" up from the bottom and glue the bottom planking in place. In fact, with dovetail joints on the side, you wouldn't have to glue the bottom piece in at all.
 

If you want to go with reclaimed/period hardware then it's almost certain that you need to locate and acquire that first. Otherwise you could finish the chest and spend the next 20 years looking for hardware to fit it. If you go with wood, the curved top is going to be the hardest part of the chest to make. Short of finding a log with the perfect diameter and grain you want, you will probably have to apply a nice veneer to a material that can be curved to the extent you desire. The downside of that is that any material that can be curved easily will also not be that strong. The way around that would be to use either aluminum or sheet metal, curve it to the shape required and then apply the veneer to both sides of that. The appearance will be that of wood, but the structure will have the strength of metal. Based on the dimensions you provided, I think 3/8" wood stock would be perfect. And with period hardware, you should also go with period joints. That means no nails or screws on the joints, and hammered rivets only on the hardware. Wood joints would look good with dovetails. If you don't put the bottom planking flush with the sides you can go with a dado joint around the side planks, 1/4" up from the bottom and glue the bottom planking in place. In fact, with dovetail joints on the side, you wouldn't have to glue the bottom piece in at all.

Midden Monster,
Sounds like you have first hand experience in the building of a treasure chest :headbang:
I was thinking dovetails on the joints, and if I didn't like the way it turned out, I could always cover the corners with something that looks solidifying. Totally agree on checking out hardware situation first.
I think the word curve, threw a curve in what I meant. Profile from the side would be like an upside-down U.
The size I am thinking about, would hold a couple of monster boxes of silver rounds (I would leave out the boxes though), plus room for jewelry or something.
Not that I would use it for that :laughing7: All my stuff sank in a boating accident.
That's fairly substantial weight unless a guy is still good at weight lifting or something. . . . or at least not old. . . you would probably be looking at 2 guys to carry it very far, without hurting yourself.
It's kind of fun to think about, that's for sure. The little boy in us I guess :hello:
Idahodutch
 

One like this would be a little heavy to try to move,
but I like the way it was filled 8-)

View attachment 1795620

I was showing this picture to the grandkids yesterday, and their vote on the contents, is that the coins were chocolate. Their reasoning was the coin edges were too thick for coins in their opinion. I said their observations were really good and that they're probably right.
They did really like the chest and the idea of one.
It was a fun conversation.
Idahodutch
 

You can get various size chests up to about 12” w x 9”d x 11”h at Michaels or Hobby Lobby. You can get packs of different size gems in different colors at Party City. Throw away the smallest gems if you have any small children. The chests come unfinished. Pick the color stain that you want and then go one or two shades darker because the wood doesn’t take the stain well.
 

ImageUploadedByTreasureNet.com1582592976.607021.jpgthis chest I bought in Sedona AZ at a western themes place in downtown on the west side of the street. A bit pricey but all metal. Not advised for long term underground storage. But a cool chest non the less.
 

View attachment 1804907this chest I bought in Sedona AZ at a western themes place in downtown on the west side of the street. A bit pricey but all metal. Not advised for long term underground storage. But a cool chest non the less.

rickb1,
That chest looks awesome!
I don't blame you a bit for picking it up. It would be really hard to pass up.
My wife would probably keep asking me, every so often, "And what did you need that for again?"
Thanks for sharing.
Idahodutch
 

Sounds like you have first hand experience in the building of a treasure chest

Never built a treasure chest, but I do like woodworking. If I built one for looking at rather than burying I would go with the best wood I could find. Oak might be the strongest, but for looks I don't think you could beat maple or walnut. But if you really wanted to go all out, you would use a good base wood like oak, and then spend a fortune on the perfect burl with psychedelic grain and use it as a veneer, matching the grain as you fastened it to the base wood. That would probably cost several thousand clams, though. Then you could make your wife wax it every month to keep it looking good!

this chest I bought in Sedona AZ at a western themes place in downtown on the west side of the street. A bit pricey but all metal. Not advised for long term underground storage. But a cool chest non the less.

So what qualifies as "a bit pricey" in Sedona? That looks like something that would carry gold on a stage coach...just before the robbers put the snatch to it and left the people stranded in the wilderness with a broken wheel.
 

Never built a treasure chest, but I do like woodworking. If I built one for looking at rather than burying I would go with the best wood I could find. Oak might be the strongest, but for looks I don't think you could beat maple or walnut. But if you really wanted to go all out, you would use a good base wood like oak, and then spend a fortune on the perfect burl with psychedelic grain and use it as a veneer, matching the grain as you fastened it to the base wood. That would probably cost several thousand clams, though. Then you could make your wife wax it every month to keep it looking good!



So what qualifies as "a bit pricey" in Sedona? That looks like something that would carry gold on a stage coach...just before the robbers put the snatch to it and left the people stranded in the wilderness with a broken wheel.

Midden,
If you do ever build one, it sounds like it will definitely be a nice one.
Idahodutch
 

Top Member Reactions

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top