What am I doing wrong?

[Digum]

OK …Here’s where I disagree. I believe that the halo always comes to the surface at a 45 degree angle and is determined by the depth of the object. There is also many rings around the object which some people and equipment can detect.

So art are you saying that the 45% angle is like a V, the bottom part of the V being the actual location of the object? If that's so, the top of the V would grow larger toward the surface and above the surface, and it would create the field around the target that Mike has talked about. I've broken the halo when digging hundreds of targets. Once the halo is broken, it's sometimes very hard to locate the object, especially an old small object like a silver dime. I've seen halo diameters a foot across on the surface when a silver dime was 8 to 10 inches in the ground.

 

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[aarthrj3811]

So art are you saying that the 45% angle is like a V, the bottom part of the V being the

actual location of the object? If that's so, the top of the V would grow larger toward the surface and above the surface, and it would create the field around the target that Mike has talked about. I've broken the halo when digging hundreds of targets. Once the halo is broken, it's sometimes very hard to locate the object, especially an old small object like a silver dime. I've seen halo diameters a foot across on the surface when a silver dime was 8 to 10 inches in the ground.

I have located gold that has been there for millions of years. If you have your rods the proper length and body position in the exact position every time you will know where the coin is. I have never picked up the cone while dowsing except when I wanted to. If you want to walk around yelling yahoo go ahead. It will find you nothing without digging a lot of big holes…Art

 

[Digum]

Digum, you might try to get a satellite photo from google maps or wherever, and get someone else to dowse it.

I used Topo along time ago when searching for a civil war munitions plant. Which of the satellite sites is the best or recommended for treasure hunting? I'm not a member of any of the photo sites right now but would join one if I knew which is the most preferred. I finally recieved my metal pendulums. I'm still practicing the cards and hoping to get more accuracy and confidence on the maps. Mapping is not easy for me. I'm also practicing with the rods using Arts methods. I've been dowsing for along time but using his methods have been a very good tuneup for me. Again, I think it was Art (on another topic) but not sure, who described how to build a good set of rods with handles. Two pieces of copper tubing, with a short dowell in the bottom and a hole in the dowell for the rod handle to set in. Bottom end caps, and top end caps with a hole in the center. I built a set of these handles, and since I couldn't locate copper rods I used brass rods. Unlike most people, I like longer rods, 18 inches. I curved the rod tips into a tight circle. These are very easy to build and really make a quality set of handles. There is minimal resistance, and they feel good in the hand.

 

[aarthrj3811]

Hey Digum…Now that you have a set of rods that you like is to find out where to mark what you have found. Approach many targets and see where you are when the rods close. If you are a foot off I wish you lots of luck when it comes time to dig….Art

 

[Digum]

Hey Digum…Now that you have a set of rods that you like is to find out where to mark what you have found. Approach many targets and see where you are when the rods close. If you are a foot off I wish you lots of luck when it comes time to dig….Art

Art I was out in the 107 degree sun practicing some of your methods with those rods today. I'm kindof proud of how nice they turned out. If I remember right you said your left heel is the actual spot when the rods cross? I didn't dig any targets today but the ones above the ground seemed to be about where my rod handles were. That might change on targets underground though. I hold the rods fairly close to my chest. I hope I do get within a foot of the real targets. I'd be very happy. I have a can each of Dura Gloss and Nevrdull brass and copper cleaner. Same product, different name. It's like a dirty smelly cotton ball type petroleum product that is the best I've ever used. Cleans metal fast. I shined up those new rods and handles and they look great. I decided to shine a pair of my older rods, rods I hold in my hands without handles. They were dirty brass brown. It's unbelievable how much easier the shined slick rod will react and rotate in your hand. It's like night and day.

 

[aarthrj3811]

Hey Digum….I also keep my rods clean. All my shoes have heels so the front part of the heel was a good choice for me. I use 16 D nails with a piece of surveyor tape on top as markers. It is pretty easy for me to reach between my feet and place the marker. This spot is important as from this spot you will determine how deep the object is.
When you start digging it becomes more important. A ½ oz nugget or a silver dime is very small. 8 or 9 inches deep is simple. 2 feet or more is not. If you keep the hole small you can hang your heels over a two foot deep hole and tell if you are still on target or which way to dig. Keep on practicing as there is a lot to learn….Art

 

[aarthrj3811]

http://forum.treasurenet.com/index.php/topic,19537.0.html

Reply 7 is how I adjust my rods to the target. If your favorite rods do not cross at the right spot you have a few choices. You can cut or make them longer or you can build a new set to be used for this purpose only. I have found that Adjusting the rods is a lot like setting the SWR on a 1/4 wave CB antenna. I started my experiment with 36 inch rods. I cut until they closed and then cut them again until they closed again. I can’t remember how many inches there was between each cut but do remember that it was consistent. Consistent for my body type. The number 5 ½ inches keeps popping into my head.

I have a set of rods for finding caves, a set of baited rods for gold, a set with film canisters on them use only for baiting other targets, and a spare set in case I lay the rods down and can not find them….Art

 

[Digum]

We've discussed preferred rod lengths for different types of dowsing, but is there a preferred weight or rod thickness? I've always used plain old clothes hangers, brass when possible. Lately as I've begun to learn more and experiment more, I've found I prefer thicker heavier brass rods. Less wind interference, more stability, easier to handle for me. I "thought" before I began practicing , that a heavier rod would not turn in my hand, that I didn't have enough (mind or thought control) to use heavier rods. I was wrong, I do.

 

[aarthrj3811]

good job....I prefer 3/16 Brass. You can feel them went they turn....Art

 

[aarthrj3811]

Hey Digum…..I have a little experiment for you. Throw a coin on the floor. Us your usual method of locating the signal and following it to the coin. Notice where your rods are when they cross in relationship to the coin.
Now go somewhere and dig a hole 4 inches deep and about 3 feet around. Place a penny in the hole and cover it up. Now use your rods to locate the penny. Mark it and use a garden trowel to dig it up. Count how many trowels of dirt it takes to find the penny. Did you make a big hole or did you get the penny with the first trowel full of dirt.
Now make another set of rods from coat hangers. Now put your heel on the coin. If they do not close trim them until they do. Now go back to your hole and try it again. Just imagine what would happen if the target was 3 foot deep...Art

 

[Digum]

Art I'm also using the 3/16 rods and I like the weight and feel. I'll do that dirt/rod experiment. Loose dirt has an affect on allot of objects. For instance, I'm sure most of us here either do now, or have metal detected. I can't tell you how many times I've pinpointed an object and after breaking the ground it dissappeared completely or was hard to locate. Sometimes it's because I broke the halo, but other times I'd have to chaulk it up to just loose dirt.--- Mike I made my copper handles with a short dowel in the bottom with a drilled hole for the rod handle to set in. There is a small hole in the top cap of the handle to center the rod. Very little resistance. How is a "solid handle" made and what diameter is it? And when other than wind, would you use solid handles instead of plain rods or handles that allow the rod to turn?

 

[aarthrj3811]

Hey Digum….When I am in California those may be what we call kickers. Small deposits of micro gold and silver are deposited where rain water has ran or puddle. When in these areas I always kick the spot a few time to see if the signal goes away….Art

 

[Digum]

There's not much gold around here. However a few years ago I worked some dirt from different areas within 100 miles using a highbanker, and there is some micro gold. It couldn't be seen with the human eye. We retreaved it with mercury. So that could be an interference in some areas. Perhaps I should work some soil closer to home to see if we have micro gold here. Many times we've had a silver signal using MDs and loosened the soil and there would be nothing. Put a handheld pinpointer on the ground and it will ring all around the lose ground but you can't see a thing.

 

[aarthrj3811]

I used to live where there was miles and miles of Dredger Tailings left from the 1800’s-early 1900’s mining operations. In the middle of one of these areas is a parking lot that was build when they were hauling the rocks for a dam. It is about 20 acres in size. I was walking my dog one day and meet a couple with metal detectors. They told me the metal detectors were going crazy but they could find nothing.
I went back to the truck and got my dowsing rods and there were micro gold all over that parking lot. The next summer and a few after that I would take a dust pan and a brush and sweep up the gravel and sand and take it home. The first winter when I processed the material from the parking lot I had 3 pounds of gold. Easy and the dog enjoy running around when I was working…Art