Anyone want a better coin digging tool?

[bottlebum]

If I were making those, I would be at the junkyards robbing leafsprings off of cars and trucks for the material.

 

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[Timberwolf]

I found a shop that said he could make them for about $3.00 each, minus the handle grip and tempering.
Problem was, he never would follow through with making them

I gave up on the idea. I live in a small town, and neither metal shop would make them for me.

TW

 

[bottlebum]

That's what made me think of using leaf springs as the material stock. They might not have to be tempered unless they would somehow lose their temper during the process of welding the handle on. I would think there would be a way to control that though, maybe by cooling in oil.
Sorry it didn't work out for you. I know what it's like , living in a small town in the middle of nowhere. It really limits your resources.

HH, Bottlebum

 

[Timberwolf]

Leaf springs might be a very good idea. They would rust after a while, but that could be cleaned off.
If you decide to try that, let me know how it works out.
I'm working on other projects now, so I won't be scavenging the salvage yards

TW

 

[bottlebum]

I might try it. If I do, I will post the results here.

Take care and HH
Bottlebum

 

[AZ-Mtnman]

Timberwolf, might have what you're looking for. Has everything you asked for to begin with, so check it out. http://predatortools.com/item_details.asp?ID=4

 

[bottlebum]

That's the same shovel that I use. I really like it.

 

[X-Terra70_TreasureHunter]

Those diggers are being made in Canada and are for SALE here in the states

 

[Timberwolf]

Would love to see some pics of yours, thanks.

TW

 

[Mighty AP]

Hey Timberwolf........Im intrigued! I've made many diggin tools, been welding & fabricating most of my adult life. Seems this digger would be very easy to make but the curve in the blade would need to be tempered........to do this correctly is difficult. Getting the exact temp, holding temp long enough & quenching at the right time. If not done correctly the tensil strength is weakened & the blade will bend. I would make it outa stainless steel, a lil bit heavier than carbon steel but rust-proof & indestructible! I will be starting at my new job in a month or so & should have access to material & a tig welder...........I would like to try to make one of these. I'll let ya know how it goes, if it turns out realy nice I'll send ya one!

 

[Timberwolf]

Hey Timberwolf........Im intrigued! I've made many diggin tools, been welding & fabricating most of my adult life. Seems this digger would be very easy to make but the curve in the blade would need to be tempered........to do this correctly is difficult. Getting the exact temp, holding temp long enough & quenching at the right time. If not done correctly the tensil strength is weakened & the blade will bend. I would make it outa stainless steel, a lil bit heavier than carbon steel but rust-proof & indestructible! I will be starting at my new job in a month or so & should have access to material & a tig welder...........I would like to try to make one of these. I'll let ya know how it goes, if it turns out realy nice I'll send ya one!

AP,

That sounds exciting!

I hope you can come up with one. The two that I, have been great tools. In the 15 years or so that I have had them.....they have never broken.
They are a bit heavy, that would be the only thing that I would change.

TW

 

[jocap]

ITS A BIG ASS CHISEL 8) 8)

lmao

 

[NUKE345KV]

Yep count me in on one or 2

 

[NGE]

Because I have been fixing cars and trucks for over 44 years ( autobody and frame dude ) I have made many tools from various leaf springs and body files. If you find a small car at the junk yard with really narrow springs ( 1 1/2 to 2 inches ) you can make a decent digger. You will be cutting and bending one end for a handle, the other end is tapered to almost a knife edge anyways, just a touch-up with a file is all that is needed to sharpen. The autobody finishing files that are deemed not re-sharpenable by me, get turned into digging knives. These files are used for lead repairs and filing down high spots on sheet metal when you are metal finishing it. But first you have to heat it cherry red (do not quench!) So you can cut it to knife shape. Work the blade while it is in this grade. Grind as much of the original half round teeth off as you can, sharpen the blade, make sure you cut the tang into it. Here is a tip for right handers or left handers. Before re-tempering your blade, make a slight bend right or left so when you have it in your hand it is curved for you. After all the aforementioned steps have been done. I used a flame spreading tip on my oxy-acetalene set-up to heat the whole blade chrry red then, quickly douse it in a bucket of clean motor oil. While the blade is cooling, I went out to my wood pile and got a maple tree branch, on my band saw, I cut it to my personal length, then on my drill press I bored through the length of the branch. Then made the holes fit the thickness of my blade tang. I mixed up some J-B weld epoxy and poured it into the tang hole and inserted my knife tang, let it dry 24 to 36 hours, I dunked my handle into bright yellow liquid vinyl coating ( it has since worn off ). Pics to follow this post soon......NGE

 

[Timberwolf]

Would love to so those pics.

TW

 

[NGE]

As promised here's the pics of my knife, I have pried with it, cut roots, left it in a field for a year, it went through snow, a bushhog, and finally found it back again, just needed new handle. It is little worse for the wear..........NGE

 

[NGE]

BTW, the blade is only 1/16" thick and very strong....NGE

 

[Timberwolf]

Nice work!

TW

 

[arnie161]

looks like an old cicle that has been cut down and beveld

 

[spartacus53]

I liked several of the items I saw here, but I love the idea of making a T bar for the top handle. This will allow maxium pressure for getting through the tough stuff