Started My 6" Build

[principedeleon]

I guess you would have to buy a 100' then hope that wont be the route i just want 20' .. After thinking about the weight and that it should be more than enough in most places .

 

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[G1sammons]

Told ya I bought the last 100 ft roll they had anywhere in stock in the us ... And that was over a year ago the kanaflex rep told me that they had no plans to make anymore anytime soon .. He said they don't sell much . So I guess he was right
There was another brand that keene used but it was costly like 22 a ft ..

 

[principedeleon]

How about the kanaflex 150 cl ? It is also another good dredge hose ?

 

[G1sammons]

How about the kanaflex 150 cl ? It is also another good dredge hose ?

domt think you will find any of the kanaflex 150 series in 6" anymore
Try the tiger flex kuriyama hose it also a good hose but it's high. That the other brand keene uses .. Look for a 6" mulch blower hose
That's what the 150 series is made for . The problem is most of the mulch blowers use 5" not 6" ...

Seems like that 100 ft roll cost me like 699 to ship it from Cali to Tennessee ...
It was a pain I had to jump thru Hoops to make it happen.

 

[principedeleon]

Wasnt someone on the forum selling new 6" suction hose since he had to buy 100' of it..

 

[omnicron]

I'm wondering...someone on this forum but posting on another forum says 110 is the only way to go.... With dredging in fast water, I wonder if a less flexible hose would be a benefit.

I rebuilt my flare, made it 14" at the oval...god I hope that solves my problem.
Also built my nozzle last week...without a swivel it's going to be a b#$%$ to use. I checked at a hvac shop, they can't do the bead rolls I need and one local machine shop also said they don't have the capability...I havnt called any others though. Since the picture I've added the restrictor ring.

 

[G1sammons]

I'm wondering...someone on this forum but posting on another forum says 110 is the only way to go.... With dredging in fast water, I wonder if a less flexible hose would be a benefit. I rebuilt my flare, made it 14" at the oval...god I hope that solves my problem. Also built my nozzle last week...without a swivel it's going to be a b#$%$ to use. I checked at a hvac shop, they can't do the bead rolls I need and one local machine shop also said they don't have the capability...I havnt called any others though. Since the picture I've added the restrictor ring. <img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=971125"/><img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=971126"/><img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=971127"/>

Don't know about the 110 iv never even seen it !

 

[omnicron]

Don't know about the 110 iv never even seen it !

I thought you had bought a 100' roll? Wasn't that what you was trying to give me?

 

[G1sammons]

I thought you had bought a 100' roll? Wasn't that what you was trying to give me?

its 155 not 110

 

[omnicron]

Ahh! But based on the package size you told me, freight companies want almost $300...

 

[G1sammons]

Ahh! But based on the package size you told me, freight companies want almost $300...

Don't know ? Don't think I can roll it up any smaller without damaging the hose ... It's just big stuff . Could you imagine the fight with 8 or 10" hose?

 

[omnicron]

So another update for anyone interested...
I knew going into the sluice build that I was worried about water flow and the double screen classification over/under. After 3 trips to the river I determined I just don't have enough water going into my box. I got the underflow section working, I can get the space between the 1/4 and 1/8 mesh to clean out but at the expense of rocks not clearing from the main deck. It's just taking up to much water to clear those 2 sections. I tried up to 8" of slope and still would not clear. Really wish I would of not been influenced to go with twin engines....
A single engine and a keene P350s would of been sweet!

I did cut my flare down to 14" and the slurry comes out a lot faster but I'm wondering if its still to large. I called Keene and was connected with Pat...did I ever mention he is an a-hole...I asked him point blank what the oval opening size on their flare was and he wouldn't tell me. So I was checking out you tube videos of 6" dredges and found a video by Mr Lukens, I measured the flare on my screen, came up with a scale conversion and came up with 14.8". Don't know if its right but its the only thing I could come up with.

So back to my sluice...I'm switching it over to a 3 stage for now until I can come up with the money to buy some River Hog mat...I'm approaching the $2000 mark on this build and that's my limit. I still don't have a source for any hose...Everyone wants a arm and a leg for it. I guess I'm going to have to buy it local for $14/f

 

[Timberdoodle]

Hi Omni, I found the same type of approximate sizing on flares using this method also. Generally I saw that the width of the flare is 3/4 the width of the sluicebox so I can't say for sure, but I think you are close enough although those big rocks need more velocity to keep em moving. Good luck.

 

[littlenugget1]

well let me chime in on this when we first took the dredge out it was clearing(big) rocks like no other but the under flow was not clearing as well. then one of the engines had a hiccup and shut off waited a little bit and ran it again then out of gas .on the next outing every time from then on the rocks would get backed up in the flare and not clear.:don't know:

 

[Timberdoodle]

Littlenugget I think your onto something there. I think comparing pump outputs at pressure and looking inside the jet manifold may be worth the time. Sounds like something *%$# up. Omni, maybe one of the scoops you mentioned installing in the manifold broke free while having high pressure only on one side?

 

[omnicron]

Just checked no scoops came off. Took the pumps apart and they are ok that I can tell. I'll test the compression of the engines and do a leak down test tomorrow.
I think at first the flare was just to wide. At 14" rocks are not getting stuck in the flare. I'm going to mount the jet to the flare so that the slurry is being pushed up the flare. The last test run I took the nozzle out of the water to see what kind of spray patter the jet had. The water shot right up the middle of the flare 30 feet. All the jets converged right in the middle and made one big 2 or 3" stream.

I think I may have the problem solved. The keene foot valves have just a rubber flap. When I start one engine it's blowing that flapper partially out the hole. The pump is not drawing enough suction to pull that flapper back. How do I know this? When I last ran, one engine ran out of gas so I called it a day. I just looked at the flapper on that valve and guess what...it's pushed partially out. This is not the engine/pump buddy is referring to. This is the engine pump I talked to buddy about though...it seemed like it had inconsistent flow.

 

[omnicron]

I'm going to glue a piece of metal to each of the flappers so it wont do this again. Here's a pic of what's happening.

 

[omnicron]

I modified my foot valve flappers:



And my sluice to a 3 stage:


I did it in a way that I can switch back to a double screen o/u if my water flow issue is resolved.

Going up on Friday for 3 days to put it work and start making some money!

 

[omnicron]

So I bit the bullet and ordered some River Hog from GH. I'll be a little short, 6", but it shouldn't kill me or anything. Really hope its here Thursday but I know it wont be!

 

[Gelmac]

Building it round is easy when you have access to a break.
here's how to do it without a jet tool.

Take a piece of all thread the length you want your flare to be (48" for me). Cut you a round circle at the size you want. Cut you a square the size you want. Find the center of each. Drill a hole that the all thread will fit. Nut on the circle and square on each end. Make sure they are tight and don't move.
Mark the starting point on both your flat stock and the cut pieces. Your starting point should be the center of the square, Put your seams on the side so if your building it 7x16 start at 3.5" and give yourself 1 extra inch for the seam. Mark your corners on the square. Slowly roll you square to a corner as you mark the point your circle touches the flat stock. Stop when you have one side made. Cut that out and use as a pattern. You want to trace both ends, but make sure you mark your corners well. This is hard to explain in text. It's so easy to show in person.
View attachment 946131
You should end up with something that looks like this from the black line to the side. The red lines that go across are were you use a brake to put little creases in. DO NOT MAKE BIG ONES. Just break the metal slightly. The more creases the rounder it wiil be.

You can also use Triangulation method here: That's how I learned first and it sucks..
How to develop a Square to Round

Or you can just lay it out on your metal, cut it out leaving yourself a over lap, then take your round side, a hammer and round pipe and form your circle.
As for the 6" side. make it bigger then six. Take a piece of steel pipe, wrap a layer of duct take around it and insert it in the hole. Use clamps to make it tight, You don't have to worry about electrolysis as long as you isolate each metal.

For some reason that link didn't work for me So, I found a work around using the Internet Archive , here is the Working link -at least for me- :

How to develop a Square to Round

Hope this of help for someone.