16" TROMMEL BUILD INSPIRED BY AZVIPER

[Doitlaynstyle]

So I have started gathering supplies to begin my trommel build. I'll post a link to AZ's thread which is my inspiration for this build but I'm also planning a different style. I'll be using easily obtainable parts so that rebuilding in the event of failure is possible without fabricating new parts. I'm thinking that at eight foot long I'm going to just turn this thing into a small trailer or build it on a small trailer so that I can also haul the extra gear and make the weekend trips a little more do-able. I will be using one of the two roto-tillers for the gear reduction and I am contemplating using a tubed rubber tire as a drive wheel instead of running a full gear ring on the beast. I will probably still use roller blade wheels for the cylinder rotation but I am probably going to use four on bottom and four on top to lock the cylinder into place so the tire doesn't knock the cylinder up off the bearing wheels.

I'm also hoping that I can get my hands on a claim soon and I'll also be using my father's back-hoe to stockpile dirt, move tailing piles, and create a reclamation pond. Anyway this is the start of a long slow winter because money is tight. We just bought a new house and I'm scrimping more than usual. I'm hoping to build a new 12" sluice box but I might just have to extend my current 10" box. Like AZ I'm hoping to use gold hog mating but that's only if I can afford it. Most likely I'll run my rifles and miners moss first followed by another 3' of box with the gold hog mat I currently have. So enough of this for now. I'll add photos here and link AZ's thread.

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/364420-12-inch-trommel-build.html

 

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[SLNugget]

The problem of using perforated metal then rolling it into a cylinder the holes will no longer be round. Yes we both know first hand the labor involved in drilling 1400 plus holes, but we both have a cylinder that's strong and will last over those made using expanded metal.

I wonder if it really makes a lot of difference if the holes are not perfectly round. I know it probably goes against the grain for an artisan like you Keith but we are not sorting ball bearings. :-)

 

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[Doitlaynstyle]

So I'm finally getting to the frame... going pretty well I think

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

These will be on both ends.

 

[AzViper]

So I'm finally getting to the frame... going pretty well I think

Layn, its looking good. Looking forward watching the progress. One thing upload 1000 x 562 or large as jpegs so we can see more detail.

I have got to get back to work on my trammel and get it done.

 

[AzViper]

I wonder if it really makes a lot of difference if the holes are not perfectly round. I know it probably goes against the grain for an artisan like you Keith but we are not sorting ball bearings. :-)

I was wondering when someone was going to pick up on my quote. LOL... Makes no difference

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

I'm further along than the pictures show but I thought I'd share some of the progress. I've got both ends set with that v-groove caster and I'm currently working on the hubs for the wheels that will attach to the rotto-tiller as the drive. I have a new engine for the rotto-tiller and I should be able to position that on the frame this week. After that all that will be left is to build the hopper, weld the joints out (it is only tack welded up right now), and build the splash guards, fluid bed, build the trailer for it, and I'm still debating on whether or not to go with a 12" wide sluice or stick with the 10". All my research tells me that 10" is the most effective but I'm not sure considering the amount of volume I'll be capable of running with this bad boy. Maybe build it with a 12" fluid bed and make a new 12" sluice then if it isn't working out make an adapter to neck it down to a 10" sluice. The reason is that I'd like to be able to use all of my Gold Hog matting on each length (they come in 36" wide and you have to cut out down to width) and if you make it straight into 10" you lose six usable inches from each length.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or comments on any of it. Oh and don't forget I'm going to still be doing a giveaway for the miner that comes up with the name for this monstrosity.

 

[AzViper]

Layn,

I went with 12" box. Even cutting my mats on a table saw and losing 1/8" per cut I was still able to get three 12" wide mats as the mats received were more like 37.5 inches wide. I had no issues with con material not covering the entire mats after running the sluice with 40 gallons of material.

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

Thanks Keith. It's a bit more work cuz I have to break another sluice but I think it will be worth it.

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

Some pics from Saturday that my buddy took. Stopped at the machine shop yesterday and picked up the rings for the cylinder. I went with a 2" retaining ring and three 1" slow down internal rings. I'll tack in lots of 1/2" angle iron clips to help with the grinding action. This thing is going to be a clay eating monster.

 

[Justbent]

Some pics from Saturday that my buddy took. Stopped at the machine shop yesterday and picked up the rings for the cylinder. I went with a 2" retaining ring and three 1" slow down internal rings. I'll tack in lots of 1/2" angle iron clips to help with the grinding action. This thing is going to be a clay eating monster.

So you just named that beast.

"The ClayEater"

My wife would never sit and watch me build prospecting equipment. You got a good woman.
Great action photos.

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

Got some testing done, Roto attached, and the trailer built. Still need to build the hopper, sluice, water header, and mount it all on the trailer. Then paint and go test it. I'm so excited!

 

[GarretDiggingAz]

Do you know if there's a set distance to drilling the holes for the spray bars. Got a 10" sluice and at the moment a 2200 gph pump. Definitely thinking about going to 4000. I've also got a 1200 gph pump from other highbanker. So thinking about hooking him up to the sluice while the 2200 goes for spray bars. Really hoping to get this done soo can put this hopper to use.

 

[russau]

Maybe a idea for a name for this could be "the Scalper" or "the stripper"?? but it really looks nice and i really like the idea of its RPM at idel for noise controll and good fuel ecconomy and its simplicity of the engine mount to drive this!

 

[Doitlaynstyle]

My 2400 gph pump wasn't enough for my 10“ sluice. I went to a 9000 gph pump and haven't had a problem. As for the spray bars that's personal preference I drilled enough holes to get the flow I needed through the sluice and I didn't even need the valve. It was always wide open. During cleanout we did use it though to slow the flow for rinsing and running the gold hog matting.

 

[AzViper]

Do you know if there's a set distance to drilling the holes for the spray bars. Got a 10" sluice and at the moment a 2200 gph pump. Definitely thinking about going to 4000. I've also got a 1200 gph pump from other highbanker. So thinking about hooking him up to the sluice while the 2200 goes for spray bars. Really hoping to get this done soo can put this hopper to use.

Garrett I drilled 101 holes as seen in this video... 8000 GPH pump

​

 

[GarretDiggingAz]

I was also wondering if I should drill slots into a couple places to make it a fan spray. Has anybody tried that?
Keith
That's too many for my small spray bars. Lol.
One of these days I'll be in your league.

 

[SLNugget]

I was also wondering if I should drill slots into a couple places to make it a fan spray. Has anybody tried that?
Keith
That's too many for my small spray bars. Lol.
One of these days I'll be in your league.

I use a trommel with slots in the spray bar inside and the spray bars on the hopper. Works very well with material typically run. No holes just slots. I recommend some way of cleaning the inside of your spray bars.

 

[Justbent]

I was also wondering if I should drill slots into a couple places to make it a fan spray. Has anybody tried that? Keith That's too many for my small spray bars. Lol. One of these days I'll be in your league.

If you make the "nozzle part" replaceable, you can figure out what's best for your setup. Also, add up the area you drill out and don't go over the area that your pump puts out. That will get you close.

 

[GarretDiggingAz]

Hopefully I'll tackle this this week. It's taking too long and I know at least one of ya wants to see the hopper in action. lol
I think I'll put threaded ends on ends so I can clean as necessary. Plus I might be able to replace pipes as necessary. Maybe make it so I could have different setups for different material. It may not be necessary, but maybe it would work better for the different types of clays. Just setting up different focal points to either push material up and then drop into sluice so it cleans the mucked up rocks better.
Either way I'll start with fewer holes and work up from there.
I've got 1" PVC and the pump discharge I believe is 1-1/2". So if I use 1/8" holes. Then I should only have 8 max holes per pipe, right? Or should that be total for all the bars?
I'd guess I could figure it out by experimenting, but if I get info from somebody, that just might keep me from banging head. Lol.