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dowser

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I saw this Laundry detergent recipe, should save me $$$.
Need
5 Gal bucket w lid
1 cup Arm & Hammer Super Soap-catalyst
1 cup Borax-softener
1 cup grated Castile bar soap-surfactant

Dissolve without boiling, 1 cup grated Castile bar soap.
Pour into 5 gallon bucket half full of very hot tap water.
Add 1 cup Borax, 1 cup Arm & Hammer, mix 2 minutes.
Fill bucket to full with cold water, mix.
Let sit over nite, will turn to Gel.
Use 1/2 cup per laundry load.
3 safe minerals, 300 loads, less than $10..
 

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All mixed up, ready to sit over night to gel.
I can fill my old laundry soap container to dispense it.
 

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I used to work in the technical department of a multinational corporation that manufactured laundry products and that home-made recipe didn’t look to be a great idea to me… so I asked AI for an opinion:

"This combination is generally considered not a good idea for modern fabrics and washing machines. While it is cheap and eco-friendly, homemade Castile soap recipes frequently leave a waxy, dulling residue on clothes over time and can void modern machine warranties. The primary issues with this DIY recipe include:

Soap Scum Buildup: Castile soap is a true fat-based soap. When combined with minerals found in tap water (especially in hard water areas), it creates an insoluble soap curd. Over time, this coats fibers, making your clothing feel stiff, trap odors, and look dingy.

Washing Machine Damage: This soap scum does not rinse completely away. It builds up on the internal drums, pumps, and hoses of modern high-efficiency (HE) washing machines, which can lead to mold and expensive mechanical failures.

Lack of Modern Surfactants: Commercial detergents are scientifically engineered with specialized synthetic surfactants, enzymes, and optical brighteners designed to lift stains and suspend dirt in the water. The soap/borax/washing soda mix lacks these components, meaning dirt simply re-deposits onto your clothes during the wash cycle.

How to use these ingredients safely: If you already have these ingredients, they are highly effective when used in other ways rather than mixed together as a primary laundry soap.

Washing Soda: Excellent as an occasional Laundry Booster to soften hard water and cut grease when used alongside a high-quality, store-bought commercial detergent.

Borax: Works as a fantastic stain pre-soak or laundry booster for white loads.

Castile Soap: Best reserved for hand-washing delicates or as a multi-purpose liquid cleaner around the home.

For your main laundry, it is highly recommended to use commercially formulated, HE-safe detergents to protect both your clothing and machine.
"
 
A cup of grated Castile is 2 oz in 5 gallons.
Not a major concern, I wouldn't think.
 
5 Gal bucket w lid
1 cup Arm & Hammer Super Soap-catalyst
1 cup Borax-softener
1 cup grated Castile bar soap-surfactant

5 Gal bucket w lid
1 cup Arm & Hammer Super Soap-catalyst
1 cup Borax-softener
1 cup grated Castile bar soap-surfactant

Asking AI about you specific recipe:

"While it is cheap, this mixture is fundamentally "soap," not "detergent." It can damage modern washing machines, void equipment warranties, and leave a dull, waxy residue on clothing.

"Why This Recipe Falls Short:

It’s Soap, Not Detergent: True detergents are chemically formulated to suspend dirt in water so it washes away. Bar soap (like Castile) relies on fats and oils. When these fats mix with minerals in your water, they create "soap scum".

Washing Machine Damage: This residue coats the inside of your drum, water lines, and drain pumps. In High-Efficiency (HE) machines, this buildup can cause mold, foul odors, and expensive mechanical failures

Waxy Clothing Build-up: Over time, the soap builds up on your garments. This traps odors and bacteria, leaving workout clothes and towels smelling sour even after washing."
 
Asking AI about you specific recipe:

"While it is cheap, this mixture is fundamentally "soap," not "detergent." It can damage modern washing machines, void equipment warranties, and leave a dull, waxy residue on clothing.

"Why This Recipe Falls Short:

It’s Soap, Not Detergent: True detergents are chemically formulated to suspend dirt in water so it washes away. Bar soap (like Castile) relies on fats and oils. When these fats mix with minerals in your water, they create "soap scum".

Washing Machine Damage: This residue coats the inside of your drum, water lines, and drain pumps. In High-Efficiency (HE) machines, this buildup can cause mold, foul odors, and expensive mechanical failures

Waxy Clothing Build-up: Over time, the soap builds up on your garments. This traps odors and bacteria, leaving workout clothes and towels smelling sour even after washing."
Okay, I don't recommend using this according to AI..
 
Sal suds was also mentioned.
That is a better choice.
Castile soap will make scum Sal suds is a Synthetic surfactant.
 

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$13 of Sal suds to replace the Castile soap in a 5 gallon load..
 

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Red coat, thanks for catching that, you rock again!
 
Okay, I don't recommend using this according to AI..
It all depends on who asks AI, how one asks AI, and one will get a totally different response from the query.

What if I add borax to my washing machine


Adding borax to your washing machine will boost your detergent’s cleaning power, soften hard water, eliminate stubborn odors, and brighten fabrics. It acts as a natural mineral additive (sodium borate) that optimizes the wash water's pH level to help lift dirt more effectively.

What Happens in the Machine
  • Softens Hard Water: If you have hard water, calcium and magnesium prevent your regular detergent from lathering. Borax neutralizes these minerals, allowing your detergent to actually do its job.
  • Brightens and Whitens: When mixed with water, borax converts some molecules into mild hydrogen peroxide. This safely whitens dingy whites and keeps colors vibrant without the harshness of chlorine bleach.
  • Neutralizes Odors: Borax is highly alkaline (around 9.2 pH). This allows it to break down acidic, stubborn odors like sweat, mildew, and urine rather than just masking them with fragrance.
  • Prevents Detergent Buildup: It keeps soap particles suspended evenly in the water so they wash completely down the drain instead of sticking to your clothing fibers.
NOTE TO READER: I didn't work for a soup company
 
I used to work in the technical department of a multinational corporation that manufactured laundry products and that home-made recipe didn’t look to be a great idea to me… so I asked AI for an opinion:

"This combination is generally considered not a good idea for modern fabrics and washing machines. While it is cheap and eco-friendly, homemade Castile soap recipes frequently leave a waxy, dulling residue on clothes over time and can void modern machine warranties. The primary issues with this DIY recipe include:

Soap Scum Buildup: Castile soap is a true fat-based soap. When combined with minerals found in tap water (especially in hard water areas), it creates an insoluble soap curd. Over time, this coats fibers, making your clothing feel stiff, trap odors, and look dingy.

Washing Machine Damage: This soap scum does not rinse completely away. It builds up on the internal drums, pumps, and hoses of modern high-efficiency (HE) washing machines, which can lead to mold and expensive mechanical failures.

Lack of Modern Surfactants: Commercial detergents are scientifically engineered with specialized synthetic surfactants, enzymes, and optical brighteners designed to lift stains and suspend dirt in the water. The soap/borax/washing soda mix lacks these components, meaning dirt simply re-deposits onto your clothes during the wash cycle.

How to use these ingredients safely: If you already have these ingredients, they are highly effective when used in other ways rather than mixed together as a primary laundry soap.

Washing Soda: Excellent as an occasional Laundry Booster to soften hard water and cut grease when used alongside a high-quality, store-bought commercial detergent.

Borax: Works as a fantastic stain pre-soak or laundry booster for white loads.

Castile Soap: Best reserved for hand-washing delicates or as a multi-purpose liquid cleaner around the home.

For your main laundry, it is highly recommended to use commercially formulated, HE-safe detergents to protect both your clothing and machine.
"
Simple fix: Just put the machine on sani-wash setting every 10 loads to get rid of any build up that is caused by natural product build up.
The forever chemicals that Large Multinational Companies use are what many health and what is polluting the air/waters of this planet.

"Oh but I love the spring fresh smell"
The question that begs an answer is "Why does everything have to smell in the first place?"
 
It all depends on who asks AI, how one asks AI, and one will get a totally different response from the query.

What if I add borax to my washing machine


Adding borax to your washing machine will boost your detergent’s cleaning power, soften hard water, eliminate stubborn odors, and brighten fabrics. It acts as a natural mineral additive (sodium borate) that optimizes the wash water's pH level to help lift dirt more effectively.

What Happens in the Machine
  • Softens Hard Water: If you have hard water, calcium and magnesium prevent your regular detergent from lathering. Borax neutralizes these minerals, allowing your detergent to actually do its job.
  • Brightens and Whitens: When mixed with water, borax converts some molecules into mild hydrogen peroxide. This safely whitens dingy whites and keeps colors vibrant without the harshness of chlorine bleach.
  • Neutralizes Odors: Borax is highly alkaline (around 9.2 pH). This allows it to break down acidic, stubborn odors like sweat, mildew, and urine rather than just masking them with fragrance.
  • Prevents Detergent Buildup: It keeps soap particles suspended evenly in the water so they wash completely down the drain instead of sticking to your clothing fibers.
NOTE TO READER: I didn't work for a soup company

Good thing, the soup might not be so good.
 
Here is the lesson I learned about Borax. I read a rock tumbling trick about using a tablespoon of Borax with water for a final tumble will help get any film off the rocks. I dumped the final load into a container with 2 gallons of water to rinse the Borax off the rocks and scoop the plastic bead tumbling media off the top. After retrieving the rocks I got the bright idea not to waste water and dumped the water at the base of a 3 year old Chinese Plum tree we had. Within 2 weeks it began shedding it's leaves. In a panic I gave it a heavy watering to try to save the tree. Fortunately it recovered but I learned that "Where Borax goes, nothing grows". :laughing7:
 
Boron is a trace fertilizer and is needed for best growing. But the dose is the poison.

I didn't realize my ag operations were deficient until I read the USGS soils map information, then boom! Local agronomy operations don't want to hear about this. Their loss as well as their clients.
 
Here is the lesson I learned about Borax. I read a rock tumbling trick about using a tablespoon of Borax with water for a final tumble will help get any film off the rocks. I dumped the final load into a container with 2 gallons of water to rinse the Borax off the rocks and scoop the plastic bead tumbling media off the top. After retrieving the rocks I got the bright idea not to waste water and dumped the water at the base of a 3 year old Chinese Plum tree we had. Within 2 weeks it began shedding it's leaves. In a panic I gave it a heavy watering to try to save the tree. Fortunately it recovered but I learned that "Where Borax goes, nothing grows". :laughing7:
Putting a few tablespoons of borax on a tree stump will preserve the wood and stop it from rotting rather than destroying it. Borax acts as a natural fungicide and wood preservative. It kills the microorganisms, bacteria, and fungi required to break down organic wood matter.

If a person wants to get rid of the stump use Epsom salts or potassium nitrate. Drill 1" holes 8" deep, 4" apart, fill most of the hole. Then pour in hot water, cover with a black garage bag.
 
Boron is a trace fertilizer and is needed for best growing. But the dose is the poison.

I didn't realize my ag operations were deficient until I read the USGS soils map information, then boom! Local agronomy operations don't want to hear about this. Their loss as well as their clients.
How much per acre did you apply?
 
BEWARE OF AI !!!

It is Wrong , More then Not !!

it Runs on %'s even if Most People are wrong
 
How much per acre did you apply?
Not much. Varies a bit depending on crop. In the neighborhood of pound per acre equivalent.
Stuff can be toxic in excess. Such a small amount I deliver it in very dilute water solution as the only feasible way to spread it evenly. Similar for other trace.

This is the boron, 'The weight percent of boron in borax (sodium tetraborate decahydrate) is approximately 11.5%. This is calculated based on the molecular weight of boron relative to the molecular weight of borax.'

Close enough for 8:1.

Cost about the same in quantity at the agronomy shops as in the store boxes if you get them correctly ( stores vary a lot )

I calculate my concentration and base distribution on sprayer GPM. I have advanced to the point where all my various trace goes in the same batch at appropriate levels so only one trace spray does it all.
 

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