Artillery?

Tony (NC) · Jan 29, 2012

Just dug this about 2 hours ago. It's a little over 6-1/2" long and a little over 1-1/2 wide. I'm guessing on the weight...maybe 2lbs. Is this a 40mm round?

TheCannonballGuy · Jan 29, 2012

World War 2 era 37-millimeter cannon ammo. Most were AP (Armor Piercing) solid-shot, but I'd need to see a photo of the cleaned-up base of yours to be sure it is a solid-shot. The copperbrass band-sabot on yours shows no rifling marks, so it is an unfired one.

Tony (NC) · Jan 29, 2012

TheCannonballGuy said:
World War 2 era 37-millimeter cannon ammo. Most were AP (Armor Piercing) solid-shot, but I'd need to see a photo of the cleaned-up base of yours to be sure it is a solid-shot. The copperbrass band-sabot on yours shows no rifling marks, so it is an unfired one.

Thanks for the ID CBG! I followed your lead and I believe what I have is a 37mm M2 Canister round. Man....this thing could ruin your day!

Here's a link for a little more information on this shell if anyone is interested:
http://www.inert-ord.net/usa03a/usa5/37mm/index.html

TheCannonballGuy · Jan 29, 2012

No, you did not find the Canister version. As its name implies, the "business" part of a Canister round is shaped like a can.

You found either the HE (High Explosive) or the APC-T (solid-shot) version. The solid-shot has a long cone-shaped aluminum cap on its front end. Since your find is rusty for its entire length, it might be the High Explosive version. That is why I said I'd need to see a photo of its base to know for sure.

If it is the explosive version, it will have an approximately 1.15"-diameter flat brass disc (which is the fuze) in the center of its base ...or, if the fuze is missing, you'll see a large hole with threading for the fuze to screw into. Check the photo about halfway down the page at the site you linked (http://www.inert-ord.net/usa03a/usa5/37mm/index.html).

If you found the (Solid) Shot version of the World War 2 US 37mm projectile, the base will have only a 1/2"-wide, 3/4"-deep hole, with no threading in the hole.

If you found the explosive version and it still has its brass fuze in the iron base, you might want to be careful about handling it, because it is a 20th-century artillery projectile. There seems to be no record (such as a newspaper-report) of a civil war shell exploding from merely being dropped during the modern era ...and we relic diggers almost always hit civil war shells pretty hard with our shovel when we dig them up. But unlike 1861-1865 shells, some 20th-century shells can still explode from merely being dropped.

Tony (NC) · Jan 30, 2012

TheCannonballGuy said:
No, you did not find the Canister version. As its name implies, the "business" part of a Canister round is shaped like a can.

You found either the HE (High Explosive) or the APC-T (solid-shot) version. The solid-shot has a long cone-shaped aluminum cap on its front end. Since your find is rusty for its entire length, it might be the High Explosive version. That is why I said I'd need to see a photo of its base to know for sure.

If it is the explosive version, it will have an approximately 1.15"-diameter flat brass disc (which is the fuze) in the center of its base ...or, if the fuze is missing, you'll see a large hole with threading for the fuze to screw into. Check the photo about halfway down the page at the site you linked (http://www.inert-ord.net/usa03a/usa5/37mm/index.html).

If you found the (Solid) Shot version of the World War 2 US 37mm projectile, the base will have only a 1/2"-wide, 3/4"-deep hole, with no threading in the hole.

If you found the explosive version and it still has its brass fuze in the iron base, you might want to be careful about handling it, because it is a 20th-century artillery projectile. There seems to be no record (such as a newspaper-report) of a civil war shell exploding from merely being dropped during the modern era ...and we relic diggers almost always hit civil war shells pretty hard with our shovel when we dig them up. But unlike 1861-1865 shells, some 20th-century shells can still explode from merely being dropped.

Thanks Again CBG....it does have the hollow cap. It's actually broken through in a couple spots. The camera battery died before I could get photos of it. It's appears to have about a 1/2" hole in the bottom center, not the large fuse hole. I don't feel like there is any danger of it exploding. It had water running out of it when it came out of the ground. But I left it outside the house any way. I'll try to clean it up and get some better photos of the base when I get back from the "salt mine" today.

aquachigger · Jan 30, 2012

Here is a picture of a 37mm AP round (center) I found two summers ago. Notice the aluminum shield tip CBG is talking about. Also, note that the driving band will have information stamped in it and you can look it up to see exactly what kind of round it is. If you get the numbers off of yours, I'll look it up for you. Also included is a cannister round that I opened up for display. I found several hundred of these and a few dozen 75mm rounds (all AP) in a river dump.

Tony (NC) · Jan 31, 2012

Thanks guys!

Aquachigger...mine doesn't have any markings on the sabot at all. That's a pretty impressive photo you've got there! I love that cut away of the canister! Cannonball Guy...Thanks for the education. You really know your stuff! :notworthy:

Now that I know it's the AP variety, how would you guys suggest I clean it up? I don't know if that Aluminum nose cone would survive electrolysis.

aquachigger · Feb 1, 2012

Re: Thanks guys!

Tony (NC) said:
Aquachigger...mine doesn't have any markings on the sabot at all. That's a pretty impressive photo you've got there! I love that cut away of the canister! Cannonball Guy...Thanks for the education. You really know your stuff! Now that I know it's the AP variety, how would you guys suggest I clean it up? I don't know if that Aluminum nose cone would survive electrolysis.

Electrolysis didn't hurt the aluminum caps on mine. BUT... unless you are POSITIVE you have an AP round, I wouldn't try to run it. The corrosion on your cap does not look like aluminum to me and without seeing the base I can't rule out it not being fused. Of course maybe you have since cleaned it up, but from what I can see in this post, I'd be very careful. Any chance you could post up a few cleaned up pics of the cap, base or rotating band?