Bronze Member
Jun 9, 2006
Detector(s) used
ACE 250
To keep track of your finds check out the silver and gold market value calculator application on itunes!

A new CRH book is coming out!

Ok here is a feature length explanation.

First off, it is very helpful to go to a bank that you have an account with or know the teller, they are much happier that way.

Second, a roll of cents is 50 cents, nickels is $2, dimes is $5, quarters and halves are $10.

I recommend the halves.


First go into a bank and ask if they have any half dollars, they will usually say either no, or they will say we have a couple dolalrs in loose halves (halves in there coin tray) or they might also say they have a bunch in the vault. Tell them you will buy them all.

They will either give you rolls of halves or loose ones, buy them all.

When searching in halves, look for anything dated pre 1971, (those are silver) 1965-1970 are 40% silver and everything before that is 90% silver. Keep an eye out for franklins, walkers, and any other non kennedy halves. Also look for anything with an "S" mintmark, proof coins can be very lucrative. Just the other day i got a gem BU 1995 proof half; EST: $30. Half dollars produce the most finds or "keepers"* as some people like to call them.

If they run out of halves at the banks try ordering a box, its $500 (1,000 halves) and contains 50 rolls. You can get VERY LUCKY with boxes or you could get SKUNKED**. Either way they are alot of fun.

Most tellers at banks will have many rolls of quarters, dimes, nickels, and pennies.


You can try doing quarters, i got a couple rolls once and found a 1954 silver quarter. Quarters however produce the least out of any other coin denomination (anything pre 1965). If you do collect errors though, do quarters and keep an eye out for roatated state quarters.


If no halves are available and you want silver try some dimes. Dimes produce more silver than quarters but less than halves. Keep an eye out for silver dimes (pre 1965) and mercs. Dimes can be alot of fun and if you find a merc (i never have yet) i here it is quite thrilling. In my experience i can get about 1 silver dime for every ~20 rolls. Halves are still much better.


Nickels are also fun to try. I save all pre 1960 nickels, but some people save anything befre 1956. Keep an eye out for buffaloes because they are still being found! Nickels are large, not that expensive and very fun to search even though the profit is generally not the greatest. If you like errors look out for the speared bison on the 2005 bison nickel. They can be worth a good chunk of money.


Pennies are really great. Very innexpensive and a full box (50 rolls) is only 25 bucks. With pennies save all wheaties (pre 1959) and anything else you think is interesting. Wheats can be found sometimes every roll or every couple rolls depending on your luck. Keep a watch out for errors! Several recent reports in the "coin roll hunting" section have also shown me that an indian head cent can even be found after going through loads of pennies or if your extremely lucky, but dont count on it.

Some people take there coins to a coin counter or sorter at a bank (or coinstar but that charges) to get rid of the change. I personally always reroll my coins in rolls and put a black line on them with a sharpie to ensure that i dont check the same rolls again a few days or weeks later.

* KEEPERS - Finds found coin roll hunting that are worth saving
** SKUNKED - getting no keepers in a box of coins, or from a batch or roll of coins.


ALWAYS ASK FOR LARGE SIZE DOLLAR COINS!!! I have found 75 IKE's total at banks. Some people even find peace dollars and morgans!!!

Also keep an eye out for old bills, i found 3 red seal 2 dollar bills EST: $7 each at a bank once.

Look out for 1974 double die halves!


- When searching dimes only check the rims, its much faster and keep a close look for dirty silver rims.

- When searching all other coins check the dates also. Many errors and varieties are still in cirulation!

-PROOFS: Although proofs have a larger rim (usually if un worn) it is still better to check the dates on
all the coins and not just the rims when searching half dollars. Many proofs can still be found in BU
condition that can be worth good money.

Coin roll hunting can be lots of fun and yield a large proffit, but dont get discouraged, one time in a box someone found 3 walkers and a franklin in the very last roll, they never gave up. True story, trust me.

I hope this little description helps! Have fun and i highly reccomend it! Questions or comments just PM me. Good luck and HH!


-Pic 1 is a proof coin
-Pic 2 are silver coins

***** UPDATES 10/24/06!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *****

-Save all pennies minted on 1982 and earlier, these are made of mostly copper and for the metal value can be worth around 2 cents or more a piece!

-Save all 1942-1945 nickels, they are war time nickels from world war 2 and are made of 35% silver. Mintmark is on the reverse above the building.

-Save all 1987 P and D half dollars. They were only made for mint sets. Also, all have dollars dated after 2001 were not made for circulation and are worth keeping.

-Some banks will give you red coin rolls if you have an account with them. Otherwise, i usually just by mine online. They cost around 5 for a penny at the most. Unless you get the pre crimped ones.

-You might want to try searching through the small dollar coins too. Think, if people break upon proof sets to spend the halves they must spend the dollars too. I have heard from a friend who once tried searching mixed sacagaweas and susan b anthony small size dolallars. I think he said he found a proof anthony once. Not worth to much but still fun!

-Coin roll hunting is also a great way to fill up coin folders for collection!

Dont forget 1987 half dollars, only available in special sets.
All halves after 2001 were not made for circulation!



After my recent find of a 1/4 ounce $10 gold eagle in a quarter roll I have decided to add gold coins to this post. Coin machine have been added aswell.

-When at the bank asking for any gold coins may get you many various responses. Most tellers will say that they have the gold dollars... sacagaweas or presidentials. This is not the right way to ask. From my experience I have found that it is far better to say "Have you seen any older coins (or ecurrency) come through the bank lately". The teller may say no, yes, or maybe and then go and check the vault or the teller tray.

-Again, I stress the importance of checking the face of the coin and not just checking the rimms. Although the rim of a gold coin will usually appear gold, many silver rims do not appear to be silver. If i had been whipping the quarters through a machine or just cehcking rimms I may have skipped over it. I like to check the rim first, and then skim over the coins.

-Coin counting and sorting machine can be amazing as I have heard. I personally do not use them but some people do, and they love them. Yes, its true that they can seperate hundreds of copper pennies from zinc ones in minutes, but they cannot pull out the wheat cents, the errors, or the higher grade pieces for you. Only you can do that yourself. Whether you use a machine or not to search, it is your own personal prefference.


*** GRADING SCALE *** (From Bella online)

P1 is Poor - A coin in this condition is not readable. All that can be determined is the denomination of the coin.

F2 is Fair - A coin at this grade, the date will be very difficult to make out.

AG3 is About Good - This type of coin will be very worn. The date will be hard to read. Some words will be worn smooth.

Coins from these first three grading scales are known as a cull. These coins are usually called filler coins for a coin collection.

G4 to G6 is Good - The Good scale shows a coin in a heavily worn state. Everything is readable, but it will be flat and faint on some areas of the coin.

VG7 to VG10 is Very Good - Coins in this state will be well worn. The major parts of this type of coin are there. A good part of the details will be flat.

F12 to F15 is Fine - This type of grade will have moderate even wear. The detail will be mostly worn off, but clear.

VF20 to VF35 is Very Fine - The Very Fine scale will show moderate to light wear on the high points of a coin. All details will be clear to sharp.

EF40 to EF45 is Extremely Fine - Some of the mint luster will be seen on this grade type. The details will be very sharp.

AU50 to AU58 is Almost Uncirculated - The mint luster will mostly be all there on this type of coin. The wear will be very light on the high points.

MS60 to MS70 is Mint State - On the lower part of the Mint State scale, there will be some small nicks and scratches from contacts with other coins. The luster will be almost perfect, with some toning. On the higher part of this scale, there will be no trace of wear or any contact from other coins. These are rarely found in circulation. This range is also known as the uncirculated grade.

*** TERMS *** (from ACSB website)

Grading service. ACcu-Grade. Controversial at present, because the assigned grades seem to be inflated relative to standard services like PCGS and NGC.
adjustment marks
Marks caused by filing a planchet before striking to reduce its weight to the standard, as was sometimes done for early U.S. coinage.
AG (AG3)
About Good. Grade.
A book-like holder with slots for storing coins.
Intentionally modified after the minting process.
American Numismatic Association. Collector and dealer organization.
Grading service. The initials originally stood for "American Numismatic Association Certification Service". It has since been sold to a company independent of the ANA.
A coin produced prior to about 500 A.D.
artificial toning
Coloration added to a coin by treatment with chemicals or other "doctoring".
To evaluate, appraise, examine & judge carefully in order to fix a value.
American Silver Eagle. A one ounce silver bullion coin, issued by the United States government from 1986-date.
n. A characteristic of a coin.
v. To identify a coin by determining the country of origin, denomination, series, date, mintmark and/or variety.
AU (AU50, AU53, AU55, AU58)
About Uncirculated. Grade.
A public or private sale in which items are sold to the highest bidder.
auction house (traditional auction house)
A place where public and/or private auctions are held.
An original, non-counterfeit coin.
Determination by an expert on whether or not a coin is authentic.
bag marks
Small scratches and nicks resulting from movement of coins in the same bag (also known as contact marks or keg marks).
bank note
Paper money issued by a bank.
A non-numismatic form of precious metal bullion. Bars come in many sizes.
bas relief
Design elements are raised within depressions in the field
B# (B1-B10?)
Browning number (1925). Die variety - Bust Quarters, 1796-1838.
B# (B1-B23?)
Bolender number (1950, 1998). Die variety - Silver Dollars, 1794-1803.
BB# (BB1-BBn?)
Bowers and Borckardt number (1993). Die variety - Silver Dollars, 1794-1804 and later.
BG# (BG101-BG1313)
Breen and Gillio number (1983). Die variety - California private gold, 1852-1882.
n. The amount or price offered for an item or the amount an item is expected to sell for at auction.
v. To offer an amount or price for an item.
An alloy of silver and another metal, usually copper, which is less than 50% silver.
A coin or coin-like object combining parts composed of two different metal alloys.
Pieces of eight were physically cut into eighths; each piece is one bit.
A piece of metal being prepared for coinage before the rims have been raised by passing through the upsetting mill.
Brown. Color grade for uncirculated copper coins.
A location where dealers buy and sell coins with each other and the public, such as at a coin show.
A coin struck without a firmly seated collar, resulting in "spreading" outwards, but still showing all design details.
A mirror image of the design from one side of a coin impressed on the opposite side - occasionally, a newly struck coin "sticks" to a die, causing the next coin struck to have a First Strike Mirror Brockage of the coin stuck to the die; by the second strike the mirror is distorted, and later strikes are termed Struck Through A Capped Die.
Brilliant Uncirculated. A grade with a numerical value equal to about MS60-62.
A coin or other object composed primarily of a precious metal, with little or no value beyond that of the metal.
Bureau of Engraving and Printing
An agency of the U.S. Treasury Department responsible for production of currency.
business strike or business issue
A coin struck and intended for circulation.
Bullion Value. The value of the coin is closely related to its metallic content (usually silver or gold).
Charlotte (North Carolina). Mintmark, 1838-61, gold coins only.
C# (C1-C23?)
Cohen number (1982). Die variety - Half Cents, 1793-1857.
Post confederation Canadian numismatics.
A coin, usually struck as a Proof, with a frosted or satiny central device surrounded by a mirrorlike field.
The pattern of light reflected by flow lines of mint state coins, resembling spokes of a wheel;
Name given to the British pennies and twopences of 1797 due to their unusually broad rims.
Carson City (Nevada). Mintmark, 1870-93, gold and silver coins only.
certified coin
A coin authenticated and graded by a professional service.
To find and purchase a coin worth a premium over the seller's asking price (generally a rare die variety priced appropriately for a more common variety).
chop mark
A symbol (added to money by someone other than the government which issued it) to indicate authenticity.
Denotes money that is no longer in mint state, generally as a result of normal handling and exchange.
Composed of more than one layer, such as the copper-nickel over copper composition of U.S. dimes, quarters, and halves minted presently.
clash mark(s)
Outlines and/or traces of designs from the opposite side of a coin resulting from die clash.
Any process that removes foreign substances, corrosion or toning, e.g. application of solvents, dipping, and rubbing with abrasive materials or substances.
cleaned coin
While any coin subjected to a cleaning process could technically be considered cleaned, this term most commonly refers to those which have been abrasively cleaned (a coin which has been abrasively cleaned generally has a lower numismatic value than an otherwise comparable uncleaned specimen).
A coin, planchet or blank missing a portion of metal from its periphery, caused by an error during blank production; types of clips include curved (most common), ragged, straight, eliptical, bowtie, disk and assay.
Deliberate shearing or shaving from the edge of gold and silver coins. Patterns and mottos are included on edges of many coins to discourage the practice.
CMM# (CMM1-CMM13?)
Cohen, Munson, Munde number (1971). Die variety - Half Cents, 1793-1857.
A piece of metal with a distinctive stamp and of a fixed value and weight issued by a government and used as money or "legal tender".
coin envelopes
A special envelope made from paper which has little or no harmful chemicals that may affect a coin's appearance, condition or value.
coin show
An event where numismatic items are bought, sold, traded and often exhibited.
A device present in a coining press to restrict the outward flow of metal during striking and to put the design, if any, on the edge of the coin.
The numismatic holdings of an individual (or group, organization, estate, etc.) in total or of a particular type.
A coin issued by any colony; frequently refers to those produced by European colonies in the Americas in the 17th and 18th centuries.
A coin with a design commemorating a person, place or event
condition census
A list of the finest known specimens of a particular variety of coin.
To hand merchandise over to someone you entrust to sell for you.
contact marks
Small surface scratches or nicks resulting from movement of coins in the same bag or bin.
An imitation of a coin or note made to circulate as if actually money;
An altered or non-genuine coin made to deceive collectors, usually a more valuable date or variety.
California Small Denomination Gold.
A raised lump of metal on a coin caused by a piece of a die having broken off.
A coin that is extremely worn and/or damaged.
cupro-nickel (or copper-nickel)
Composed of an alloy of copper and nickel, as for example U.S. 5 cent coins (other than half dimes) and Canadian 5 cent coins produced since 1982.
Paper money.
Coin World. Publication.
Dahlonega (Georgia). Mintmark, 1838-61, gold coins only.
Denver (Colorado). Mintmark, 1906-present.
Physical change to a numismatic item, such as a scratch, nick, ding, cleaning, hole, pitting the effects of chemicals or environment, etc.
The year(s) shown on a coin, usually the same as the year it was minted.
DC (also DCAM)
Deep Cameo. High grade proof.
Deep Cameo. High grade proof.
Doubled Die Obverse. Type of die variety.
Doubled Die Reverse. Type of die variety.
A person or company that regularly buys and sells numismatic collectibles.
dealer buy price
The price at which most dealers are currently buying a particular coin. The price a dealer buys a coin for.
deep mirror prooflike (DMPL)
Having highly reflective mirrorlike fields, similar to a coin struck as a Proof.
Metal missing or retained but peeling from the surface due to incomplete bonding or impurities in the planchet.
An ancient Roman silver coin weighing about 3 grams, roughly the same size as a U.S. dime but thicker.
The face value of a coin. It's monetary worth as legal tender.
Tooth like raise features just inside the rim of some coins (also known as dentils).
The devices, lettering, etc. appearing on a coin and their arrangement with respect to each other.
The creator of a coin's design.
A major design element, such as the bust of a person.
A usually cylindrical piece of steel bearing at one end the incuse design of one side of a coin (except for coins with incuse detail, where the die details are in relief).
die chip
A small fragment broken off from a die; metal flowing into the resulting hole during striking results in a small raised lump on the surface of the coin.
die clash
Upper and lower dies coming together in a coin press without a planchet between them; design details may be partially impressed in the opposite dies and subsequently as mirror images on coins struck from the clashed dies.
die crack
A narrow fissure in the surface of a die; coins struck with such a die have a narrow raised line corresponding to the crack.
die erosion
Wear on a die from use in the minting process.
die flow lines
(see "flow lines")
die state
The condition of a die at a particular point in its life.
die polish
Small raised lines in the field of a coin resulting from polishing of a die to remove chips, clash marks, etc.
Cleaning by immersion in a liquid capable of removing molecules from the surface, such as a solution containing thiourea.
The original spelling of dime, 1/10 of a dollar.
Deep Mirror Proof Like. Business strike, with deep mirrored planchet.
double denomination
A rare error in which a previously struck coin is restruck by the die pair of another denomination.
double die
A dubious term sometimes intended to mean a doubled die coin and sometimes indicating machine doubling (because there is often a substantial difference in value between the two, a savvy buyer will be sure to determine which case is true for any coin described as such).
doubled die
A die with doubled device details, letters and/or numerals resulting from any of several possible differences between the multiple hub impressions during its manufacture; a coin struck from such a die.
double eagle
A U.S. gold coin with a face value of $20, first minted in 1849 and last officially minted in 1932.
An ancient Greek silver coin weighing about 3 grams, roughly the same size as U.S. dime but thicker.
Early American Coppers, Inc. Collector and dealer organization.
A U.S. gold coin with a face value of $10, first minted in 1795 and last minted in 1933; also, the current U.S. $50 face value gold bullion coin.
The "third side" of a coin, encompassing the perimeter.
EF (EF40, EF45)
Extremely Fine. Grade.
E Pluribus Unum
"Out of many, one"; the motto on many U.S. coins.
Any unintentional deviation in the minting process resulting in one or more coins with a different appearance than intended.
The lower part of a coin or medal, usually divided from the field by a line and often containing the date, mintmark or engraver's initial(s).
Tokens, medals and other non-monetary coin-like objects.
eye appeal
Overall attractiveness (beauty is in the eye of the beholder).
F (F12, F15)
Fine. Grade.
face value
The ordinary monetary worth of a coin or note at the time of issue.
fair market value
The American Heritage Dictionary descibes it as "the price, as of a commodity or service, at which both buyers and sellers agree to do business". To many people "fair market value" has come to mean the most commonly accepted price at which the majority of buyers and sellers agree to do business.
The flat background on a coin, medal or token.
Canadian five cents silver coin or United States three cent silver coin.
British term for a planchet.
A clear, soft plastic holder normally used for a single coin.
flow lines
Microscopic lines in the surface of a coin resulting from the outward flow of metal during striking.
fiat money
Money that is not backed by specie and is legal tender by decree.
fractional currency
Paper money with a face value of less than one dollar.
FS# (FS1-FS?)
Fivaz and Stanton number (19xx). Die variety - many series.
fugio cent
The first coin issued by authority of the United States, produced by contractors in 1787.
G (G4, G6)
Good. Grade.
An epoxy coated plaster relief model of a coin, token or medal created by electrodeposition (much larger than the dies later created from it).
Gallery Mint Museum. A current producer of replicas of early US coins.
One of several terms summarizing the overall condition of a coin or other numismatic item; the process of evaluation leading to assignment of a grade.
the Coin Dealer Newsletter, a price guide for U.S. coins intended for dealer-to-dealer sight seen transactions.
Light scratches in the surface of a coin.
half cent.
A U.S. coin with a face value of 1/200th of a dollar first minted in 1793 and last minted in 1857
half dime
A U.S. coin with a face value of 5 cents issued with dates between 1794 and 1873; originally called a half disme.
half eagle
A U.S. gold coin with a face value of $5 first minted in 1795 and last minted in 1929.
hobo nickel
A coin (usually a U.S. Buffalo nickel) physically altered to produce a substantially different image.
Having a hole drilled through it, usually as a result of being used for jewelry.
Any device designed for storage and sometimes display of numismatic items.
A steel bar used to make dies having the same raised design on one end as one side of the coins ultimately produced.
Grading service. Independent Coin Grading Service.
impaired proof
A proof coin with wear or damage resulting from circulation or other handling.
The opposite of relief -- design elements are impressed into the surface.
J# (J1-J1778?)
Judd number (1959-77). Pattern or experimental coin.
JR# (JR1-JR13?)
John Reich number (Davis, et al, 1984). Die variety - Bust Dimes, 1794-1837.
key date
The rarest (or one of the most rare) and therefore most expensive members of a coin series, e.g. the 1909-S VDB Lincoln cent or 1916-D Mercury dime.
KM# (KM1-KM?)
Krause and Mishler number. From Standard Catalog of World Coins. Type of world coin. Includes California, Mormon, Colorado, Hawaii.
A numismatic publishing company (Krause Publications); this company's Standard Catalog of World Coins.
lamination flaw
(see "delamination")
large cent
A U.S. coin with a value of 1 cent, minted from 1793 to 1857, composed primarily of copper and larger in diameter than the current U.S. quarter or A similar Canadian coin issued between 1858-1920.
legal tender
Money that may be legally offered in payment of an obligation and that a creditor must accept (source: Webster's New World Dictionary).
Lettering on a coin other than the denomination or nation which issued it
Popular name for the Canadian loon dollar coin first issued in 1987.
A type of magnifying glass used by numismatists and jewelers.
love token
A coin (or sometimes a token) which has been altered by someone as a rememberance or in a tribute to another person. Most commonly a love token will have a loved one's name or intitials engraved into it. Some love tokens have been painstakingly engraved with elaborate scrollwork.
The brilliance of a coin, resulting from reflection of light off die flow lines.
machine doubling
Doubling of details resulting from loose dies during striking (generally considered to have no numismatic value).
mail bid
An auction format in which bids are submitted by mail; the highest offer for each lot received by the closing date wins the lot (several other rules usually apply).
matte proof
A proof coin with a granular (rather than mirrorlike) surface produced by dies treated to obtain a minutely etched surfaces (usually in the raised portion of the coin's design).
A coin-like object struck to honor one or more persons or events depicted or mentioned in its design; an object awarded to persons in recognition of service or other accomplishment.
melt/melt value
The worth of precious metal in a coin, determined by multiplying the amount of the metal it contains by the spot price of the metal.
A facility for manufacturing coins.
The quantity of a denomination of coins produced at a mint during a period of time (usually one year).
mint bloom
The original surface of a newly minted coin.
A letter or symbol designating the mint which produced the item bearing it.
mint set
A specially packaged group of uncirculated coins from one or more mints of the same nation containing at least one coin for most or all of the denominations issued during a particular year.
mint state
In the same condition as when delivered from the mint (natural toning excepted); uncirculated.
misplaced date
One or more digits of a date punched away from the intended location, such as in the denticles or in the central design.
A phrase imprinted on a coin, for most U.S. coins "E PLURIBUS UNUM".
MS (MS60-MS70)
Mint State. (Uncirculated, business strike). Grade.
A coin struck from two dies not intended to be used together.
multiple strike
A coin struck more than once as a result of not being properly ejected from the coining press.
mylars or mylar coin holders
This commonly refers to a holder made from cardboard which has two coin-sized holes cut out in a particular denomination. The holes are covered with a plastic film (mylar). A coin is placed in one cut out aread and the cardboard is folded in half, allowing both sides of the coin to be seen through the plastic film. The cardboard is usually held together by staples or glue (as with pre-glued mylars). Mylar film is used because it has no known chemicals which may cause damage to coins, however, a coin may become toned from chemicals which are found in some staples, gum, or tape.
N# (N1-N17?)
Newcomb number (1944). Die variety - Large Cents, 1816-1868.
N# (N1-N105?)
Newman number (1952). Die variety - Fugio Cents, 1787.
natural toning
Coloration resulting from chemical change on the surface during normal environmental exposure over a prolonged period.
Not Collectable. A unique or nearly unique coin. Usually one of Sheldon's die varieties of Large Cents. At the time of Sheldon's "Penny Whimsey" (1958), for a coin to be NC, there had to be less than 3 specimens known.
net price
A term signifying that the seller is unwilling to sell for less than the price marked.
Grading service. Numismatic Guarantee Corporation.
Numismatic Literary Guild. A prestigious organization of writers of numismatically related articles, books, etc.
Numismatic News. Publication.
The collection and study of coins, tokens, medals, paper money and other objects exchanged for goods and services or manufactured by similar methods.
A person who collects and/or studies numismatic items.
O# (O101-O128?)
Overton number (1970). Die variety - Bust Half Dollars, 1794-1836.
A small silver coin of ancient Greece, originally a day's wages for a rower on a galley or a citizen on jury duty.
The front or "heads" side of a coin, often bearing a portrait and date.
off center
Incorrectly centered during striking, resulting in part of the design missing (off the edge).
Over MintMark. Two different mintmarks involved. (versus RPM, which is the same mintmark punched more than once). Type of die variety.
on-line auctions
An auction held over the Internet, such as on Ebay.
original/original toning
Having natural surfaces resulting from long exposure to ordinary environmental conditions; uncleaned.
A coin struck from a die with at least one digit of the date repunched over a different digit, e.g. 1809/6 or 1942/1.
Designated with a higher grade than merited.
over mintmark
One mintmark on top of a different mintmark, such as a 'D' over an 'S' (denoted D/S).
Philadelphia (Pennsylvania). Mintmark, 1942-45 (5c only), 1979- (all but 1c). Sometimes denotes absence of mintmark.
paper money.
Paper notes with standardized characteristics issued as money
British term for exonumia.
A thin layer of naturally oxidized metal on the surface of a coin acquired with age.
A coin struck as a test piece for a new design, sometimes without a date.
Professional Coin Grading Service. Grading service.
Photo-certified Coin Institute. Grading service.
PF (PF60-PF70)
Proof. Type of coin production and/or Grade. Contrasts with business strike.
pick up point
An area where a feature, such as die doubling, is most evident.
piece of eight
A former Spanish coin with a face value of eight reales; the U.S. dollar was originally valued at and tied to eight reales.
Having a rough surface due to loss of metal by corrosion.
Proof Like. Business strike, with mirrored planchet.
A piece of metal prepared for coinage with raised rims but as yet unstruck.
Denotes that a holed coin has been filled.
Professional Numismatists Guild. Dealer organization.
Having a granular surface as the result of oxidation, most frequently found with older copper coins.
Premium Quality. Sometimes part of the sealed slab grade, such as a MS64 PQ (not quite good enough for MS65). Often it is just a hype adjective like "Choice" or "Select".
PR (PR60-PR70)
Proof. Type of coin production and/or Grade. Contrasts with business strike.
precious metals
Term usually reserved for gold, silver, platinum, etc.
A price or value over and above (in addition to) a coins face value.
prestige set
A set of coins produced by the U.S. Mint containing one or more proof commemorative coins released in the same year, as well as a proof cent, nickel, dime, quarter and half.
problem coin
Any coin that has been cleaned or damaged or has other undesirable characteristics.
A coin specially manufactured to have extra sharp detail, mirrorlike fields and sometimes frosted or "cameo" devices, produced for sale to collectors at a premium or for exhibition or presentation.
Having mirrorlike fields, similar to a coin struck as a Proof.
proof like
A coin specially manufactured by the Royal Canadian Mint with mirror fields.
proof set
A specially packaged group of coins containing at least one of most or all of the denominations of proof coins struck by a nation in a particular year.
Poly Vinyl Chloride. An ingredient of soft plastic "flip" coin holders which will damage coins over time.
quarter eagle
A U.S. gold coin with a face value of $2.50 first minted in 1796 and last minted in 1929.
R# (R1-R8)
Rarity scale. R1 most common; R8 least common. The often used Sheldon scale is:
R8 = 1-3 known (estimated), "Unique or Nearly Unique"
R7 = 4-12 known, "Extremely Rare"
R6 = 13-30 known, "Very Rare"
R5 = 31-75 known, "Rare"
R4 = 76-200 known, "Very Scarce"
R3 = 201-500 known, "Scarce"
R2 = 501-1250 known, "Uncommon"
R1 = over 1251 known, "Common"
An infrequently encountered or available item; the number of surviving specimens of a particular issue, as may be indicated by a rarity scale index.
rarity scale
A convention for designating the rarity of a coin, such as Sheldon's system (with values such as R1 for common pieces and R6 for extremely rare specimens) and the Universal Rarity Scale invented by Alan Herbert (with designations such as URS3).
Red-Brown. Color grade for uncirculated copper coins (BN, RB, or RD).
Red. Color grade for uncirculated copper coins (BN, RB, or RD).
A former basic monetary unit of Spain and Spanish colonies in the Americas.
Red Book
The Handbook of U.S. Coins, a retail price guide for U.S. coins published annually, originally written by R.S. Yeoman.
reeded edge
An edge with raised parallel lines, a.k.a. milled or grained.
Features rising above the field.
repunched date
A date with one or more of the digits punched more than once in different locations and/or orientations.
repunched mintmark (RPM)
A mintmark punched more than once in different locations and/or orientations.
A coin struck with authentic dies later than the date it bears.
retail or retail price
The price at which a coin or item is commonly sold in a retail store. Price of an item sold to "end" user or collector.
The back or "tails" side of a coin.
Roman Imperial Coinage.
The outer edge of a coin, often raised to avoid premature wear.
A disc shaped piece of precious metal bullion.
Roman Provincial Coinage.
RePunched Date. Type of die variety.
RePunched Mintmark. Type of die variety.
Roman Silver Coinage.
San Francisco (California). Mintmark, 1854-1955, 1968-present.
S# (S1-S295?)
Sheldon number (1949). Die variety - Large Cents, 1793-1814.
S# (S1-S9?)
Snow number (1992). Die variety - Flying Eagle and Indian Head Cents, 1856-1909.
Silver American Eagle. A one ounce silver bullion coin, issued 1986-date.
A note issued by and redeemable at a merchant or group of merchants.
Sovereign Entities Grading Service. Grading service.
Coins of the same major design and denomination, including every combination of date and mintmark minted, e.g. Morgan dollars.
Sheldon scale
A numerical grading system ranging from 1 to 70 created by Dr. William H. Sheldon to denote proportional values of large cents minted from 1793 to 1814 and subsequently adaped as a general grading scale.
Canadian fractional banknotes.
sight seen
Available for examination to a potential buyer before a purchase decision is made.
sight unseen
Not available for examination to a potential buyer before a purchase decision is made, as is usually the case with mail order transactions.
silver certificate
A note (paper money) once redeemable for its face value in silver.
silver clad
A clad coin with one layer containing silver, such as U.S. halves struck from 1965 to 1970.
silver eagle
A coin produced by the U.S. mint beginning in 1986 containing one ounce of silver and having a nominal face value of $1 (not released for circulation).
A coin certified by a professional grading service as authentic and encapsulated in a sealed hard plastic holder also containing a label bearing the service's opinion of its grade and other information.
A coin with very slight traces of wear, such that it almost passes for an uncirculated specimen.
Specimen. Better than business strike, but not quite a proof.
Precious metal used to back money, usually gold and silver.
split grade
Different grades for the obverse and reverse sides.
Short for spot price.
A small area of corrosion or foreign substance
spot price
The market price for immediate delivery of a commodity, such as a precious metal.
The difference between buy and sell prices on the same item(s) of a dealer, broker, etc.
The extent of separation between impressions on a doubled die.
A U.S. gold coin pattern with a face value of $4 minted in 1879 and 1880.
Incuse marks caused by rolling bars during planchet production.
The process of impressing the design from a die into a planchet to make a coin, token or medal;
The completeness of detail (as in weak strike, full strike, etc.) created during this process.
strike doubling
See machine doubling.
An ancient Greek silver coin weighing about 13 to 17 grams, roughly the same size as a U.S. quarter but three times thicker.
The rubbing of skin oil onto a coin in an attempt to hide contact marks.
A coin-like object redeemable for a particular product or service, such as transportation on a bus or subway; an unofficial coin issued by a business or town to be used as small change, e.g., in 17th-19th century Britain, and in France in the 20th century.
Color acquired from chemical change on the surface.
trade dollar
A U.S. coin with a face value of $1 minted from 1873 through 1885 specifically for commerce in the Orient;
A U.K. coin with a face value of $1 minted from 1895 through 1935 specifically for commerce in the Orient.
A U.S. coin with a face value of 3 cents minted in predominantly silver alloys from 1851-1873.
A plastic container designed for storing a roll or other quantity of coins of the same size.
type coin
Any coin of a particular design and denomination, usually one of the more common dates.
type set
A collection of coins of various designs; rather than try to complete the series, the goal of the type collector is to obtain at least one example of several different types.
Ultra Cameo. High grade proof.
UNC (Unc., MS60?)
Uncirculated. Grade.
Never circulated; without any wear.
V# (V1-V10?)
Valentine number (1975). Die variety - Half Dimes, 1794-1873.
Any variety of U.S. silver dollar described in the book Morgan and Peace Dollars by Van Allen and Mallis.
Any coin struck from a die pair that differs from others with the same date and mintmark, such as one exhibiting die doubling, different style letters or numerals, or a repunched mintmark.
VAM# (VAM1-VAM230?)
Van Allen and Mallis number (1976). Die variety - Morgan Dollars, 1878-1921.
VF (VF20, VF30, perhaps VF35)
Very Fine. Grade.
VG (VG8, VG10)
Very Good. Grade.
West Point (New York). Mintmark, 1984-present.
want list
A tabulation of collectibles sought by a collector, often including limits on condition and/or price.
water mark
A design put into paper at the manufacuring stage by pressing it while wet between rollers bearing the design.
Metal lost during handling and contact with other objects.
Alteration by mechanical polishing to produce a shiny surface.
world coins
Coins issued by various nations, as in a collection comprised of coins thereof.
XF (XF40, XF45)
eXtremely Fine. Grade.



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Upvote 2


Hero Member
Apr 27, 2012
Primary Interest:
I have a noob question. I'm about to order my first box. I'm getting sick of looking for CWRs only to come up empty handed. I'm going to be ordering from BofA. Would I have to pay for the box at the time of ordering? How long does it usually take for a box to deliver? Thanks!

Idk if you've had this answered or not yet, but generally what you'll want to do is pay for it when you go in to the bank to pick it up. When you're on the phone with whoever is placing the order for you, simply explain that you will not be returning the coins for deposit and that you will be there to pick it up as soon as it is delivered. The biggest bank in the country shouldn't take longer than two to three days to order a box for you. Hope this helps.


Hero Member
Apr 30, 2012
East Coast
Primary Interest:
Idk if you've had this answered or not yet, but generally what you'll want to do is pay for it when you go in to the bank to pick it up. When you're on the phone with whoever is placing the order for you, simply explain that you will not be returning the coins for deposit and that you will be there to pick it up as soon as it is delivered. The biggest bank in the country shouldn't take longer than two to three days to order a box for you. Hope this helps.

Thanks! The vault manager at my "main" bank absolutely hates his life. I think it's going to be difficult to convince him to order halves. I'll probably have to open an account with another bank to order halves. Has anyone had any luck with certain banks or does it just depend on the employees? Thanks.


Hero Member
Apr 27, 2012
Primary Interest:
Thanks! The vault manager at my "main" bank absolutely hates his life. I think it's going to be difficult to convince him to order halves. I'll probably have to open an account with another bank to order halves. Has anyone had any luck with certain banks or does it just depend on the employees? Thanks.

Honestly, every branch is different. You'll have to kind of "feel" out which banks and branches are good and which are bad.


Bronze Member
Aug 3, 2011
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
When you first start take your time and remember every little bit adds up to a nice pile good luck to all !!!!!!


Jr. Member
Dec 8, 2011
Port Of Pittsburgh PA.
Detector(s) used
Minelab E-TRAC & Garrett Pinpoint Pro
Primary Interest:
First try , I went to the bank asked for some halves from my favorite teller, she had two rolls which ended up yielding two coins dated 1966 and 1968. Getting silver fever!! Question when someone is talking about buying a bag or box of.... say quarters how much is it, and do you have to place an order at the bank?


Gold Member
Jan 16, 2012
Detector(s) used
White's Coinmaster
Primary Interest:
First try , I went to the bank asked for some halves from my favorite teller, she had two rolls which ended up yielding two coins dated 1966 and 1968. Getting silver fever!! Question when someone is talking about buying a bag or box of.... say quarters how much is it, and do you have to place an order at the bank?

You will have to order a box of halves, but other denominations may be available at a bank.


Cents- $25 (2500 coins)
Nickels- $200 (4000 coins)
Dimes- $250 (2500 coins)
Quarters- $500 (2000 coins)
Halves- $500 (1000 coins)
Dollars- $1000?

Bags vary, but are usually double a box amount.


Full Member
Jun 1, 2012
Northern California
Primary Interest:
Dollars- $1000?
Yep. 40 rolls of $25 for small dollars. Large dollars are $20 a roll, so I assume a box would have been the normal 50 rolls for $1000.

And some banks use $500 boxes of dimes. Only Bank of America does in my area, YMMV.


Bronze Member
Mar 12, 2013
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Just wanting to get this up higher in here so the newbies can find it easier
Love this post- I read through it thoroughly my first visit

just keep stacking, just keep stacking, stacking stacking stacking


Bronze Member
Oct 12, 2012
Fema Region 3
Detector(s) used
NOX 800, Ace 250, Garret Carrot
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Its a good post, but I think could use some editing, the terms/grading scale part really lost me, came out of no where, and took up a lot of space between the good info.

Im glad they opened this thread, as its been closed since I became a member here, and I will add my 50 cents on half hunting in this post, I will just edit it in when I get time to write it up.

HH all!

EDIT: Here is my write up on Half Hunting.

The OP is pretty straight forward, halves come in almost always in a $10 roll, there are $20 CWR rolls but I have not been lucky enough to find one.

Ive been hunting for about a year and half now... Last year in just boxes, I searched over 1200 boxes of halves. It took me a while to build up a bankroll, and also system to the madness! My first try of CRH'ing, I went to about 10 banks and none had any halves, finally one had $510 in wrapped halves and I had been reading enough on this forum, that it was just probably someones searched dump. Low and behold it was not! I found (70) 40% half dollars, and (23) 90% halves, the 90% included bens and walkers!. At this time, it was worth about $800 or $850, for my CRH Bankroll at that time, I used my rent money before the rent was due, and even though I found alot of silver, it also took away about 50$ face value! lol... So I sold all the 40% and most of the 90% kennedy's. It also gave my bankroll to start searching on a weekly basis.

Ok so you want try and find some silver halves?

Go into a bank, ask if they have any half dollars or large dollars. word for word... Never mention silver. Always buy all that they have or the most that you can, but ALL is best of course, never ask to look through it for special ones, and try to use your poker face if they are dropping silver on the table! lol

Once you complete your transaction, whether they have any or not, if you want to order them, this is when you ask them, "Would you be able to order me some half dollars?"

Now here is the tricky part... getting a YES for an answer! lol... And also, try to re-assure them that you WILL NOT be bringing the coins back to them... I find this is a real key here... Especially if you do your homework and know never to do this. never bring coin back to the same bank(yes bank, not just branch) that you order from.

Ok so regardless if you have a larger bankroll or not, I do not recommend ordering more than $1000 or 2 boxes at first. I say this because I have a nice track record, of starting off ordering 2k per week, and then it all stopping 2-3 weeks later(saying its costing them too much money or some other excuse) and not being able to order from them ever again... You want to keep this train going, so dont start too hard... trust me, im driving pretty far away sometimes just to keep up with my comfortable 30+ box/week...

The closest bank that orders for me, is 15 minutes away and farthest is about an hour from me. It used to be alot closer, but like I said, I didnt build the relationships that are needed to keep this moving, and lost those other banks that are closer to me, I still go in for CWR's and ask every now and then if I can order, and its always no sorry we cant order half dollars anymore.

When you get your first order, ask them if it would be ok for them to order you the same amount for next week. Then when you get the 2nd order, i would suggest bringing some kind of treats, cookies, donuts etc... at a local store they sell fresh cookies for less than $5, ill use those alot, its a tub of like 20 cookies, so cant go wrong there! They all love it... for xmas I bought some nice treats from a local bakery.

So there you go, thats taking care of ordering... i would suggest waiting about a month until trying to up the order if your bankroll can handle it. and also bringing another treat when you ask to order, seems to help as well :)

As far as dump banks go... I might be one of the lucky ones, I have a great local bank near me that has a free coin counter, that uses a bin setup which holds 6-7k of coinage... So yah, I dont really need to worry about re-wrapping(oh man that would suck, sorry for you people.) or setting up coinlok bags(I do have it at one of these bank branches, they suggested it and I went along with it, as it is pretty easy to just seal up the 1k of halves in a bag that they give me, instead of putting it through a machine and wasting the time doing that.

I rim search and only rim search... If I find any questionable rims, it is getting face checked for sure... but then I will drop the searched coins in my bag, slow enough that I can hear if I missed any silver, which I have not missed any at all, and I do sound tests with a real 40% and 90% in the same manor that I dump the searched rolls and always hear it on the test clear as day.

Definitely get down the sound of silver... you can even get so good to hear the difference between 40% and 90%. If your new, you might wanna face check to be sure you dont miss any good ones. After you find some silver, you will be able to hear what they sound like bouncing off the clad coins.

I also suggest using (INDIRECT) natural sunlight for rim checking... you dont want too shady, but not directly in the sun either. And yes I find proofs and clad commemoratives and 1987 halves all the time... you can tell the nice rims from the normal circulated ones, even the NIFC's. It takes me about an hour to search 8 boxes...

I suggest you also want to try and lock down 1 specific coin courier to search from, and a different one to dump into. it might take some trial and error obviously, but thats how ive come across my system, I started ordering halves from one courier, and after 25 boxes i never found silver, so I switched it up to another bank and started hitting it right away, so ive stuck with that courier since...

I dont really know what else to add at this time, I mean that covered like everything I think!


ANOTHER EDIT: If they ever ask about searching for silver, what I say is, Sure silver is nice, but its too rare to find in any regular basis, and that I mainly look for errors and proofs(which I dont really look for errors too much, unless I know of a known date/mint and see that face by chance... and proofs I usually dont keep unless they are AU condition... but it kind of dissuades people from trying to search for silver(which you dont want 100 other people doing the same thing as you are do you?)

Last edited:


Hero Member
Feb 27, 2013
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
A quick tip for dumping re rolled nickels and dimes. Tellers love it when you give them your dumps in packs of 10 rolls rubber banded together. It saves them time and you time when you are dumping.


Jr. Member
Jan 21, 2014
Hot Springs, AR
Detector(s) used
Garret Ace 100
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I cannot seem to find a bank that is willing to order me halves. Can anybody give any suggestions to solve this problem.


Bronze Member
Oct 22, 2013
Detector(s) used
Whites DFX, coinmaster Gt Pro
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I cannot seem to find a bank that is willing to order me halves. Can anybody give any suggestions to solve this problem.

Have you tried ordering a box of dimes, nickels, or pennies? Maybe start small and work you're way up to the halves. Ordering a box of coin is a service that banks provide and the bank simply refusing doesn't add up to me. If the tellers are saying no then I'd ask politely for advice on where to get them and/or to speak with the manager.

Hillbilly Joe

Sr. Member
Feb 5, 2014
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Have you tried ordering a box of dimes, nickels, or pennies? Maybe start small and work you're way up to the halves. Ordering a box of coin is a service that banks provide and the bank simply refusing doesn't add up to me. If the tellers are saying no then I'd ask politely for advice on where to get them and/or to speak with the manager.

I was told my the dept manager she wouldnt order boxes or anything, for anyone. I could, knowing the bank Pres and VP, easily go over her head. But I have developed relationships with other banks that can take care of me.


Jr. Member
Jan 21, 2014
Hot Springs, AR
Detector(s) used
Garret Ace 100
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Have you tried ordering a box of dimes, nickels, or pennies? Maybe start small and work you're way up to the halves. Ordering a box of coin is a service that banks provide and the bank simply refusing doesn't add up to me. If the tellers are saying no then I'd ask politely for advice on where to get them and/or to speak with the manager.

I was finally able to sweet talk my teller into ordering me some halves. She will be ordering me 2 boxes tomorrow morning, wish me luck! I have been doing some boxes of dimes. So far I have only found 2 dimes out of about 3 or 4 boxes. Pennies, so far I have only been able to sort out copper from zinc.

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