Best tool to grind rust off a cannonball

Iron Patch

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I know not the best choice, but it has a lot of cracking and I'm not sure if it would hold up to electrolysis or any type of acid treatment. So I want to grind the small amount of rust that's on it as best I can, then coat it with lacquer I guess, and hope for the best. Unfortunately this is a very good early marked ball so I hope I can save it, but am not feeling very optimistic about it. The funny thing is that it doesn't really have much rust and looks very solid, but the cracking is bad.
 

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Probably just a steel BB-Q brush. Was it cracked when you found it? Exposed to a salt envirnment?
 

Probably just a steel BB-Q brush. Was it cracked when you found it? Exposed to a salt envirnment?


I tried a small brass brush I have here and it didn't do enough, but maybe a bigger one would. Actually, I do have a good one here for the barb. so can try it.

Wasn't cracked when I found it, and it hasn't changed at all... meaning no rust grew back. That's why I'm surprised it's cracked, like it's breaking from the inside out. It was found on land but fairly close to water. It had a lot of rust, but it easy came off with some tapping, and hasn't changed since.
 

Sandblasting!?!? Harbor freight may have something fairly cheap to do that.That's if you have an air compressor. Maybe a local shop would do it for a couple bucks. Otherwise a wirebrush and elbow grease. I guess maybe a wire wheel in a drill may work too.
 

Sandblasting!?!? Harbor freight may have something fairly cheap to do that.That's if you have an air compressor. Maybe a local shop would do it for a couple bucks. Otherwise a wirebrush and elbow grease. I guess maybe a wire wheel in a drill may work too.

The barbeque brush did ok. I might go one more round on it, and then hit it with the lacquer, especially in the cracks.
 

Don't know if you have power tools at your disposal. This is what I would use but I have a fully equipped shop with air tools and air compressor. The Scotchbrite pads come in different grits and will not hurt the metal. Something like this would be fine for rusty Iron but I don't recommend it for softer metals. They do make an electric version if you don't have an air compressor. Takes 3" pads so it's handy to get into small spaces as well.
 

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You can buy the wire brush wheels for your electric drill, might work a little faster for you than a grill brush by hand.
 

Brass cup brush for a grinder...
 

Check out your local auto parts store there is a chemical that turns rust back to metal ask for a por14 kit. The paint is indestructible.
 

Your going to wreck it. What you see as rust etc. is it's history. I've seen many antiques ruined with sanders and strippers. If you want a new shiny cannon ball you can probably find one.
What you see is what it's been through.
 

Wire brushing rusty iron or steel with a power tool is awesome, it wont remove anything but rust. If you work it, it goes to the base iron and starts to polish leaving a dark grayish greasy appearance. The adjacent rust powder acts as a polishing agent. IP please share some pics of your cb.
 

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Don't know if you have power tools at your disposal. This is what I would use but I have a fully equipped shop with air tools and air compressor. The Scotchbrite pads come in different grits and will not hurt the metal. Something like this would be fine for rusty Iron but I don't recommend it for softer metals. They do make an electric version if you don't have an air compressor. Takes 3" pads so it's handy to get into small spaces as well.


Thanks everyone, and I think I'll give that a shot today. As luck would have it, I'm having some work done starting today so have a drill in the next room, and have to hit the hardware store a little later. Given the ball looks not bad now, I'm fairly confident I'll at least have it looking decent, and hopefully most of the rust off to seal well... but I guess only time will tell if it will continue to crack from the inside.
 

Wire brushing rusty iron or steel with a power tool is awesome, it wont remove anything but rust. If you work it, it goes to the base iron and starts to polish leaving a dark grayish greasy appearance. The adjacent rust powder acts as a polishing agent. IP please share some pics of your cb.


It's a French 12 pounder. My gut feeling is even is sealing it will not stop the cracking like it would with something like pewter, but I'll try.

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oisjo1.jpg
 

I totally agree with hvacker...you will ruin it by trying to make it 'prettier'. Consider the frequent error of shining up old silver coins with silver polish...a beginner's mistake.

That rust indicates its authenticity and age.
 

I totally agree with hvacker...you will ruin it by trying to make it 'prettier'. Consider the frequent error of shining up old silver coins with silver polish...a beginner's mistake.

That rust indicates its authenticity and age.


I'm not doing it for looks, I'm doing it to get the rust off to better seal it to try and keep it from falling apart.... which is happening because for way too long because I was ok with it not being pretty.
 

I'm not doing it for looks, I'm doing it to get the rust off to better seal it to try and keep it from falling apart.... which is happening because for way too long because I was ok with it not being pretty.

You might consider this product; I have used it on a very brittle rusted 1935 license plate...freezes rust deterioration in its tracks.

rustoleum.webp
About Rust Reformer


Stop rust in its tracks with Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Rust Reformer. A layer of this flat-black coating bonds with rusty metal and instantly transforms it into a non-rusting surface. No need to sand down to bare metal, simply spray directly onto rust.

  • Indoor/outdoor
  • Durable, corrosion-resistant

For Best Results

Apply several light coats a few minutes apart to prevent running and sagging.
 

Getting rid of the rust on the outside won't fix your problem. You have to stop the rust on the inside. There's only two ways I know of to do that, electrolisis or fire. You can perform electrolisis on it for a few days and will convert the rust inside and out. Or you can heat the ball till it is glowing cherry red make sure to heat it all the way threw. Absolutly never heat a ball that may have powder left in it. There is a chance that the cracks could get worse if you try these techniqes, but they will definately get worse if you do nothing. If you just clean the outside and donn't stop the rust inside you will eventually have a 3 peice ball . Doing nothing like some people suggest would not be an option for me.
 

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