Cleaning Buttons...Advice needed

West Jersey Detecting · Jan 31, 2008

How should I clean old brass buttons? I have not had good results with the peroxide method on flat buttons, but what about uniform buttons?

Here is what it looks like after soaking in warm water and brushing with a soft bristled tooth brush:

E59 · Feb 2, 2008

I've never tried it but how about vinegar? It cleans my kitchen really well. Maybe it works on buttons too.
Will you post em after you find a way to clean them? They look interesting.

Jeff In North Georgia · Feb 2, 2008

Here is a product you may want to try? It's aluminum jelly.
Here is a link:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/repairs.asp?qfid=5&Product=170
It's available at most ACE hardware stores for $4 - 5.

Many relic hunters use this for cleaning buttons.

Jeff

Don in SJ · Feb 3, 2008

I am not sure but I think those who use Aluminum Jelly use it after most of the dirt has been removed and it is only used to bring out the Gilt left on a button. Not sure, but I am fairly certain most still clean by various methods to removed the stubborn dirt first. I know since I do not have Aluminum Jelly and do not find enough buttons with gilt left to justify buying it and keeping it on hand, I use a lemon for the final bringing out of the gilt color and it work just fine as long as you do not leave it on very long at all.

I have cleaned all my buttons using the peroxide method and have no qualms, yes to get the backmark readable sometimes requires more soaking and cotton swab cleaning but it still works without changing patina color.

I have seen an old post from 1999(TNet) where someone and I think I know the fellow used Top Job soaking to remove the dirt for brass buttons only, NOT PEWTER.

I have never tried a cleaner like that and would not care for the odor to be in my working room so I will stick with peroxide.

For those who soak in olive oil, well once you do that and it does not work great, you are basically stuck with what the result is, the oil is very hard to remove afterwards and never do it on two piece buttons, the oil soaks inside the two halves and leaches out for years afterwards, been there, done that and no more.

Don

West Jersey Detecting · Feb 3, 2008

Thanks Don!

X-Terra70_TreasureHunter · Feb 28, 2008

Hi the guys @ Treasure Depot use DURO's Aluminum Jelly too clean their buttons
you can buy it at the following places

Builders Square
Home Depot
Lowes
Ace
DO-IT BEST Hardware

West Jersey Detecting · Feb 28, 2008

X-Terra70_TreasureHunter said:
Hi the guys @ Treasure Depot use DURO's Aluminum Jelly too clean their buttons
you can buy it at the following places

Builders Square
Home Depot
Lowes
Ace
DO-IT BEST Hardware

Thanks!

Montana Jim · Mar 6, 2008

I've used a lot of different cleaners and will not recommend anything to you. I don't wanna get blamed for anything going bad.

I WILL however recommend AGAINST olive oil. I have some nice clean buttons that have been seeping olive oil for two years now... it cleans great - but never goes away... ever.

West Jersey Detecting · Mar 6, 2008

Thanks: I tried the peroxide approach and a soft brush and the results were awesome!

Montana Jim · Mar 6, 2008

Yes! Nicely done!

BuckleBoy · Mar 7, 2008

I'm with Jim on the olive oil. Yuck! I'm dead set against it. Some fragile two-piece buttons will actually fall apart if you soak them in it! I'm glad the peroxide was a help for you. I hope you'll post some photos of the finished results.

Here's a little secret to how to be able to read a backmark or quality mark on a flat button. Take a toothpick (if there's no gilding left that you want to save) and rub it parallel with the surface of the button as if doing a charcoal tracing of something. It will leave the dirt in the grooves where the letters are stamped so that you'll be able to read it. I actually swear by toothpicking. I do it very, very gently to my ungilted Eagle buttons and other two-piece buttons--unless they have been compromised by plow damage. I also use toothpicking on belt plates, box plates, and other brass items. Most any buckle, powder flask, flat button, or nice ungilted two-piece button in my gallery has been cleaned using this method. Here's an example...the light is a little wierd, but the button has a dark grey patina, and it was this way when I found it--only encrusted. I never remove the patina--be it green, brown, or whatever.

It just takes patience--and a sense of what verdigris to remove and what to leave for contrast.

Regards,

Buckleboy

West Jersey Detecting · Mar 7, 2008

BuckleBoy said:
I hope you'll post some photos of the finished results.

BB I guess you missed the reply with a picture of the results. The button turned out to be a railroad coat button from the Philadelphia Rapid Transit Company which operated in this region from 1907 until about 1940. I think this one is pre 1920. It was actually in amazing shape with none of the typical discoloration. I have found WWI & WWII military uniforms in similar condition in the region. I attribute the condition of the button to the lack of minerals in the sandy soils in this area . I used a toothpick to get into the grooves on it.

That is some great advice on flat buttons! (I need to find more of them, it has been quite a while!) Too many times I get a flatbutton cleaned and it becomes more difficult to read than before I cleaned it!

kindafoundabuckle · Mar 7, 2008

I do it very, very gently to my ungilted Eagle buttons and other two-piece I also use toothpicking on belt plates, box plates, and other brass items.
Regards,

Buckleboy
[/quote]

belt plates, box plates is that the same as enfield(s)

KFB Iron Brigade secret agent

BuckleBoy · Mar 7, 2008

Neil in West Jersey said:
BB I guess you missed the reply with a picture of the results. The button turned out to be a railroad coat button from the Philadelphia Rapid Transit Company which operated in this region from 1907 until about 1940. I think this one is pre 1920. It was actually in amazing shape with none of the typical discoloration. I have found WWI & WWII military uniforms in similar condition in the region. I attribute the condition of the button to the lack of minerals in the sandy soils in this area . I used a toothpick to get into the grooves on it.

That is some great advice on flat buttons! (I need to find more of them, it has been quite a while!) Too many times I get a flatbutton cleaned and it becomes more difficult to read than before I cleaned it!

I think you had just posted when I first started writing my reply. I didn't see the photo in your reply then, but I see it now. That is a BEAUTIFUL button!

Toothpicking will prevent the outcome you mentioned above on the flat buttons. If the front has no design--and no gold gilding to save, I just clean the front with a toothbrush and water. However, the back I toothpick as I mentioned above--and it preserves the legibility of the markings.

Go for those flat buttons, buddy. Where you find those, you also find Old coins and relics. That's why I love to see 'em coming up (even though some of the larger ones look so danged much like a copper when dug.

Regards,

Buckleboy