Coinshooting - OLD coin method

JOE(USA)

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New Milford,CT.
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Tesoro Cortes/Tiger Shark,Whites,B.H./ Teknetics,3DElectronics/ Two Box, Minelab XS,Excal.
I learned this back in the 1970s (I started metal detecting in 1967) IF you find an OLD coin - - - - - - try this! Turn your discriminator OFF! If you have one of the newer detectors that always has SOME discrimination then you have the WRONG detector. Then start detecting again exactly where you found the old coin. But did I hear you say that "now I'm going to find a lot of JUNK." thats right! Remember this, the junk that your discriminator eliminates is also MASKING the good targets! If the coins are on the same depth level and separated by several inches, perhaps not, But that is a senario that I don't want to subscribe to. Dig the junk, when you are in a good spot, and you will find more old coins after you remove it. Joe
 

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Don;t mind me but I have to ask about my site. This site has lots of nails and other rusted out iron objects and I use my Ace 250 in Jewelry mode which only discriminates out iron. Now I found an 1853 large cent and a few months later and about 3 feet away (if that) I found an 1897 indian head penny. Both these coins gave me good signals (not bouncing all over the place). Now I already probably know the answer to this question but, should I hit this small area and another area where some relics are in all metal mode and dig all the iron outta there? LOTS of square nails with many in the same hole. So what you all are saying is that possibly all the iron is masking out any more coins that could still be there? I am starting to feel that I ahve hunted this site out and feel lukcy that I found 4 coins from the 1800's. COuld there be more or is that amount(4) about what should be expected. I would think in those days the coins would be held tightly and not lost as easily as coins nowadays.

Thanks for the input
 
Funkman,

What do you have to lose? You should get an answer in 20 to 30 minutes of digging the ferrous junk. I would concentrate my effort in a line between the two old coins that you found. Why not give it a try and report back to us here on this thread? Joe
 

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DFIU said:
Great thread, Joe. Thanks for starting it.

I've only been at it for less than 2 years and have already become "discrimation dependent", and as a result my good finds have dropped significantly.

I can see where the Tesoro "tones only hunters" are coming from. The visuals on my machines end up dominating my time and control decision making. When I first began I dug most everything out of curiosity and actually did better.

Think I need to use my ears more than my eyes ::)

DFIU

I totally agree!!!! After purchasing my Tesoro Cibola I became aware what a distraction LCD displays can be. I can hardly use my ACE250 anymore!!!! Beep and dig- WHAT A CONCEPT.
HH
Greg
 
Funkman,

I agree with Joe on this. It is certainly worth a shot. Dig the large trash out, and don't get frustrated in the process. We never know--and can't ever know how many coins or artifacts are lost in a particular site. The moment one person says "We should expect only 4 old coins per house site," someone will go and dig 20 old coins. An old, deep half dime is easily obscured by trash. It sounds like the coins all read well on your machine even though the area was trashy. Make sure you dig all the good hits, even if you are sure they are trash. Then concentrate on the questionable ones. In situations like these, I always dig "overload signals," the decent signals, and the "iffy" signals, and have come up with some great finds and some old coins as a reward for all that work. I would also like to contribute an idea to this thread, though. I started doing this about ten years ago when hitting relic sites that had been previously hunted by other detectorists. When I make a good find, I sweep in ever-widening concentric circles around the place I found the item. In heavily hunted relic sites, I've found that frequently there are small areas that are neglected by others. These are sometimes out in the middle of large fields, or they may be areas that were previously covered with a rose-bush or two. Sometimes less accessible places. Either way, those little patches exist, and it seems that I frequently find several good items in the immediate area. I found this to be a good solution to sites too large and amorphous to "grid" and work systematically and thoroughly.

Now, how this relates to your site: Since I got in this habit at my relic sites, with much better results than just wandering around haphazardly from place to place, I started to realize that the places artifacts and coins were lost in general were indicative of higher traffic areas. These areas deserve close attention. (Disclaimer: There have been, and will always be isolated losses of coins. I agree that this theory is not always valid, but under most circumstances it holds true.) So I started to apply this "circles" technique to trashy areas and large fields where there is no house standing or few guideposts for doing a proper grid. Again the procedure has reaped good results. While I think any site that has yielded old coins or relics deserves to be hunted as thoroughly as possible, I do think that in trashy areas our best bet is to go SLOW and concentrate on the spots where we do find something in our search. Sites with heavy trash are less overwhelming this way, and using the plug from the good artifact as a marker, it is easy to do slow, concentric circles radiating outward. If anyone tries this on either a relic site or a large field or yard, I'd love to know what you think. Oh, and we're all waitin' to hear back from you, Funkman.

Regards,

Buckleboy
 
I found one of my best coins by digging near trash, obvious no one else bothered listening to their detectors. A piece of tin or zinc flashing was buried about 3 inches under the soil, about 2 foot square. This I picked out easily as a trash target, but just off one corner I kept getting an extra signal, repeatable, and in the same range as the trash. Turned out to be an 1848 seated liberty dime, and out here in Oregon, thats pretty much unheard of.

I could fill a wheelbarrow full of iron relics out of this park easily, lots of deep iron present. Wish I could use my #2 shovel!
 
Jeffro,

Your find just reminded me of a site that I hunted a long time ago. It was a ferry site, and it had flooded repeatedly during the ensuing years (It was a floodplain, and usually muddy too). The first three old coins I found on the site were all in the holes with trash. I would get a decent signal, then dig down 8 inches or so for an aluminum can or piece of big iron, then when I rechecked the hole I found that there was another good signal in there. It took me two or three targets to get wise. The trash was the only thing I was picking up at the discrimination levels I was using. All the coins were at least 10 inches deep. I backed the discrimination way off and listened only for deep, good signals and was able to dig many more old coins (and about 100 pounds of trash) out of the site.

Regards,

Buckleboy
 
I have always "circled" when I find a decent traget. I thought that was normal.
 
Oh. Didn't know it was normal. I only had one diggin buddy for relic huntin' during the first 8 years or so. All the rest was solo. He didn't "circle," and my current diggin' buddies don't either. I just thought I'd put it out there in case someone didn't know.

-BB
 
THIS WORKS! I tried this at a park today and dug a piece of misc. junk and two cents and a quarter, all clad. Still I'm 12 cents richer.
 
Im using a old garretts ads deepseeker vlf/tr. no vlf discrimination so the sound the machine makes is very important. but I envy you guys with the good discrimination I dig lots of trash and the thing weighs a ton(6 nine volt batteries). :o
 
Great thread , I bought a detector with bells + whistles so to speak and I find myself paying more + more attention to tones rather than what my screen says . Kind of wish I had went with a tone only machine . HH
 
I havent gotten my detector yet, so listening to this is giving me a lot to go on.

However, here is what I know.

In areas where I can "dig to china" and get lots of signals, that is pretty much what I will do. After all, I have dug more than a couple of six by three by six foxholes to know a bit about some earth moving. Also, I have spent a few summers helping on archeological digs, so I also know a bit about sifting crap to get the goods.

My house and my little town have a ton of ripe hunting spots. My question is this: How do you get into those areas where massive digging is a no no? How do you get "plugs" and where do you find such tools?
 
Libralabsoldier said:
I havent gotten my detector yet, so listening to this is giving me a lot to go on.

However, here is what I know.

In areas where I can "dig to china" and get lots of signals, that is pretty much what I will do. After all, I have dug more than a couple of six by three by six foxholes to know a bit about some earth moving. Also, I have spent a few summers helping on archeological digs, so I also know a bit about sifting crap to get the goods.

My house and my little town have a ton of ripe hunting spots. My question is this: How do you get into those areas where massive digging is a no no? How do you get "plugs" and where do you find such tools?

To get into those kinds of places you just ask for permission.

I use a 10" hickory knife to dig my plugs/holes. Other people prefer other digging tools, but this one is my favorite, and a great weapon when you are in a rough part of town.
 
Ok. Next question: The detector I am buying is seriously entry level. What do I need to do to "set up" and zero this thing out?

I have already found some interesting things on my property, so I know there has to be goodies around. How do I optimize my search with a less than perfect detector?
 
Libralabsoldier said:
Ok. Next question: The detector I am buying is seriously entry level. What do I need to do to "set up" and zero this thing out?

I have already found some interesting things on my property, so I know there has to be goodies around. How do I optimize my search with a less than perfect detector?

Without knowing your detector I doubt anyone could say anything but to read the instructions and then read online about how other people use that particular machine. But when you are buying entry level you can't expect too much.
 
bscofield6 said:
Libralabsoldier said:
Ok. Next question: The detector I am buying is seriously entry level. What do I need to do to "set up" and zero this thing out?

I have already found some interesting things on my property, so I know there has to be goodies around. How do I optimize my search with a less than perfect detector?

Without knowing your detector I doubt anyone could say anything but to read the instructions and then read online about how other people use that particular machine. But when you are buying entry level you can't expect too much.

I dont. that is why most of my beginning searches are going to be parks, playgrounds, and places like the bleachers at the rodeo arena and the little fairgrounds in my town. I should find enough ebayworthy goodies to save up for a better detector, and to work the bugs out of my technique.
 
Libralabsoldier said:
bscofield6 said:
Libralabsoldier said:
Ok. Next question: The detector I am buying is seriously entry level. What do I need to do to "set up" and zero this thing out?

I have already found some interesting things on my property, so I know there has to be goodies around. How do I optimize my search with a less than perfect detector?

Without knowing your detector I doubt anyone could say anything but to read the instructions and then read online about how other people use that particular machine. But when you are buying entry level you can't expect too much.

I dont. that is why most of my beginning searches are going to be parks, playgrounds, and places like the bleachers at the rodeo arena and the little fairgrounds in my town. I should find enough ebayworthy goodies to save up for a better detector, and to work the bugs out of my technique.

What kinds of ebayworthy goodies are you expecting to find? You will find lots of spare change, but for the most part I doubt you will be finding much expensive jewelry unless you literally dig every signal. In most parks this might net you the occasional 10k ring worth about $10.

Not to crush your hopes, but just trying to put you into reality.
 
bscofield6 said:
Libralabsoldier said:
bscofield6 said:
Libralabsoldier said:
Ok. Next question: The detector I am buying is seriously entry level. What do I need to do to "set up" and zero this thing out?

I have already found some interesting things on my property, so I know there has to be goodies around. How do I optimize my search with a less than perfect detector?

Without knowing your detector I doubt anyone could say anything but to read the instructions and then read online about how other people use that particular machine. But when you are buying entry level you can't expect too much.

I dont. that is why most of my beginning searches are going to be parks, playgrounds, and places like the bleachers at the rodeo arena and the little fairgrounds in my town. I should find enough ebayworthy goodies to save up for a better detector, and to work the bugs out of my technique.

What kinds of ebayworthy goodies are you expecting to find? You will find lots of spare change, but for the most part I doubt you will be finding much expensive jewelry unless you literally dig every signal. In most parks this might net you the occasional 10k ring worth about $10.

Not to crush your hopes, but just trying to put you into reality.

No problem. Besides, If all I find is clad, well, it wont take me long to make up the price of the detector I bought. Basically, this is just to see if I like the hobby. Also, the fact that there is no one else for a long way around who does this means no competition.

Finally, wheaties are ebayworthy, as are pre64 jeffs, ect. I am in reality. I dont expect to find Liberaces hoard in an inch of soil. I am just eternally optimistic. Comes from being in the Army ten years and not getting shot.
 
Libralabsoldier said:
bscofield6 said:
Libralabsoldier said:
bscofield6 said:
Libralabsoldier said:
Ok. Next question: The detector I am buying is seriously entry level. What do I need to do to "set up" and zero this thing out?

I have already found some interesting things on my property, so I know there has to be goodies around. How do I optimize my search with a less than perfect detector?

Without knowing your detector I doubt anyone could say anything but to read the instructions and then read online about how other people use that particular machine. But when you are buying entry level you can't expect too much.

I dont. that is why most of my beginning searches are going to be parks, playgrounds, and places like the bleachers at the rodeo arena and the little fairgrounds in my town. I should find enough ebayworthy goodies to save up for a better detector, and to work the bugs out of my technique.

What kinds of ebayworthy goodies are you expecting to find? You will find lots of spare change, but for the most part I doubt you will be finding much expensive jewelry unless you literally dig every signal. In most parks this might net you the occasional 10k ring worth about $10.

Not to crush your hopes, but just trying to put you into reality.

No problem. Besides, If all I find is clad, well, it wont take me long to make up the price of the detector I bought. Basically, this is just to see if I like the hobby. Also, the fact that there is no one else for a long way around who does this means no competition.

Finally, wheaties are ebayworthy, as are pre64 jeffs, ect. I am in reality. I dont expect to find Liberaces hoard in an inch of soil. I am just eternally optimistic. Comes from being in the Army ten years and not getting shot.

Well most wheats are worth about 2 cents each. The kind you will find with a starter detector will probably be 1940s or newer and will be rusted red and virtually worthless. As for the nickels, they come out of the ground all rusted red as well. They aren't worth more than 5 cents in this condition.

Silver coins are where the value is, as they come out of the ground like the day they were dropped in most cases.

BUT... with a starter detector you probably won't find any of those coins unless you are just blind lucky. They are too deep.
 
bscofield6 said:
Silver coins are where the value is, as they come out of the ground like the day they were dropped in most cases.

BUT... with a starter detector you probably won't find any of those coins unless you are just blind lucky. They are too deep.

this is the truth..........the hard truth.........and I'm not to lucky!!!!
 

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