DIY'ed my own hip mount for my excal II, with help from these forums

[Terry In Florida]

I don't know if this has been beat to death or not but I figured I would share my DIY hip mount I made for my Excal II, I've been using it a while now, so I felt confident about posting it. I know the information has been posted before, so if it doesn't seem like it may be helpful, it won't hurt my feelings for admins to remove it.

I bought 2 nylon tool belts from Home Depot for $5 each, cause I'm big around the waist and needed two. Bought stainless washers bolts and wingnuts to hold the control and battery housings. Then I found out Lowes carries the nylon fasteners that I couldn't find at Home Depot. I used a 1/2" piece of plastic conduit cut to 10" to mount them to the belts.

DIY Hip Mount

Parts List:

1x Husky 2 in. Quick Release Tool Belt - HomeDepot
2x Hillman 2 Count 1/4-in-20 x 1-1/2-in Slotted-Drive Machine Screws - Lowes
2x Hillman 2 Count 1/4-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Regular Wing Nut - Lowes
1x Hillman 4-Count 1/4-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - Lowes
1x JM eagle 1/2 in. x 10 ft. PVC Schedule 40 Conduit - HomeDepot





Price List:

$4.97 1 Husky Tool Belt (Most will only need one, unless they are my size, lol.)
$1.24 2 - 2 pk Nylon Screws
$1.66 2 - 2 pk Nylon Wingnuts
$ .62 1 - 4 pk Nylon Flat Washer
$2.21 Conduit


Subtotal: $11.70
tax .82
Total: $12.52



Started out with the parts, I cut the conduit to 10" and placed the control and battery pods in place with the conduit in the center where I wanted it, then I used a permanent marker to place a center mark for my holes on the conduit. Next I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill my holes, I was careful to do one hole on one side of the conduit, place the bolt into the hole on that side and then get my mark for the other side, and then drill the other side from the opposite direction. instead of just drilling through the conduit from one direction. I did this for each of the three holes, in the end they all lined up perfectly for me this way.




Just have to be absolutely sure of where you are placing the holes and where you want the buckle at. After I knew where I wanted the control and battery pods positioned from the buckle, I made the first hole. I heated a big philips head screwdriver up to burn through the belt and it sealed the holes at the same time. I get perfect holes that don't come apart this way. Then I bolted the belt to the conduit through that first hole to hold it while I sized up and heated through the next hole and so on.




Once I had the holes through the belt, I removed the bolts and put the conduit into the pods, and then bolted it all together. I used a bolt and washer on the inside and a wingnut on the outside of each hole.





I have used it quite a bit and it seems like it is solid, it really made a difference for me. I have bad disks in my back and osteoarthritis in both hips. Using the excal out in front of me with the pods on it, makes a lot of leverage on my back. Putting the weight on my left hip, evens out a lot of it for me. I have to use mods like this or I just can't enjoy the hobby. Right now I drag my scoop behind me, or use it like a walking stick or to lean on, lol... It doesn't seem too bad to carry it along with me. I like the water, everything is a little lighter in the water and I can MD longer that way.








I don't know if it's a mod, I guess it would be, but I clipped a bungee up from my belt that tethers my excal to my right side. So I can let it go, or move it out of the way and use 2 hands on my scoop or pull out my pinpointer if I need to but the excal is only a hands reach away. It also keeps tension off of the cables. Bending is what gets me, so I try to take away as much unneeded bending as possible.





I DIY'ed my own straight shaft also, but I used a $4 aluminum tubing from the metal place down the road from my home and its a little too big of an inside diameter. It's in the last two pictures. I used my caliper and have the measurements, I'm going to try and source it locally but if I can't find the one I want, I found where I can get it online at OnlineMetals for about $35 at 3' which includes shipping. I was thinking of doing a DIY tutorial on that too, when I get the right tube but I would rather have a cheaper source.


Hopefully this one is helpful to someone else and others can enjoy it, like I have...

 

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[Indian Steve]

Very NICE!

 

[OBN]

Nice work Terry, thanks for sharing........here is another op on the tube.

 

[Terry In Florida]

Nice work Terry, thanks for sharing........here is another op on the tube.

View attachment 1765046

Yes, that would be a nice option. I'll have to look into that, thanks.

 

[stavr]

Nice work Terry, thanks for sharing........here is another op on the tube.

View attachment 1765046

OBN, 1 mm too thin wall for 22 mm shaft! a minimum of 1.5 mm is necessary .

for the lower 1 mm if the coil is 11 "

 

[stavr]

Yes, that would be a nice option. I'll have to look into that, thanks.

....

 

[Terry In Florida]

OBN, 1 mm too thin wall for 22 mm shaft! a minimum of 1.5 mm is necessary .

for the lower 1 mm if the coil is 11 "

Yea, I saw that OBN chose 22mm OD x 20mm ID x 1000mm L on the ebay listing, I was already thinking about the 20mm ID. The original minelab upper shaft has an ID of 19.20mm but it also has extra wiggle when the lower shaft is inserted.

I measured the original minelab lower shaft at 18.96mm-19mm OD and would believe that I could work with 22mm OD x 19mm ID x 1000mm L, worst case scenario, I may have to sand the lower shaft slightly to fitment but shouldn't be a hassle. That would give me a 1.5mm wall on the carbon fiber tube. The original minelab lower shaft has a 1.66mm wall, so shouldn't be an issue to sand it slightly with a fine grit paper, to fit nicely into a 19mm hole.

Otherwise I could go up to a 24mm OD x 20mm ID, I would then have a 2mm wall for $37.49. The aluminum tube is about the same price, due to shipping.

I appreciate your offer, but $75 defeats the purpose of an easy lower cost DIY alternative. I already own the rest of the hardware, I just want to replace the upper shaft.

 

[OBN]

I'll let you guys know, I just got one...now have to put it together and do some time with it...give me a few weeks to get back to you on the results. Thanks Stavr for the heads up..

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

FYI, using a hip mount or chest mount will cause shorts in the coil cable as it flexes back in forth when you swing the coil..

 

[stavr]

Yea, I saw that OBN chose 22mm OD x 20mm ID x 1000mm L on the ebay listing, I was already thinking about the 20mm ID. The original minelab upper shaft has an ID of 19.20mm but it also has extra wiggle when the lower shaft is inserted.

I measured the original minelab lower shaft at 18.96mm-19mm OD and would believe that I could work with 22mm OD x 19mm ID x 1000mm L, worst case scenario, I may have to sand the lower shaft slightly to fitment but shouldn't be a hassle. That would give me a 1.5mm wall on the carbon fiber tube. The original minelab lower shaft has a 1.66mm wall, so shouldn't be an issue to sand it slightly with a fine grit paper, to fit nicely into a 19mm hole.

Otherwise I could go up to a 24mm OD x 20mm ID, I would then have a 2mm wall for $37.49. The aluminum tube is about the same price, due to shipping.

...

 

[Terry In Florida]

FYI, using a hip mount or chest mount will cause shorts in the coil cable as it flexes back in forth when you swing the coil..

I don't know that it "will" cause shorts but I could see that it might. Lots of people doing it and never saw anyone say it caused a short in their cable. I've been using a 50' extension cord for over 30 years, my most used cable and never had an issue with it, had a hose I used for over 20 years and then had to replace it because it became hard and brittle from the Florida sun but I have seen other people with fixes on their extensions and hoses, so I know its a possibility but I don't know what kind of workout or abuse other people have put their tools through. When I was younger I put my tools through their paces but I learned to be easier on them as time went on, hopefully the coil cable will handle the light use that I plan on putting it through by swinging the excal, I attached a bungee to keep it from being pulled taught, so I am hoping that will lower the odds for me.

I'm sure their are others who would allow or accidentally allow their shaft to drop or put weight against the cable and may have caused undo harm to he cable.

Do people have issues with the headphone cables shorting through normal use because it is probably going to have more pressure against it and be pulled on worse than the coil cable? I'm curious...

 

[Terry In Florida]

you still need such a detail https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plugger-Sh...782571?hash=item417077efab:g:OGsAAOSwSLtawSE5 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Lock...303224?hash=item26194e0eb8:g:dGYAAOSwHYpZ~06w

you need a thick CF tube 22 x 1.5 mm ....

I have the shaft lock that came with the original Minelab shaft, I'm switching the hardware over for now but I may change my mind in the future. Plugger has a lot of accessories and parts for the excal, thanks for the link. It's good to have options and help from others who have done this stuff before. I appreciate your help. These are the best MD forums, by far...

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

I don't know that it "will" cause shorts but I could see that it might. Lots of people doing it and never saw anyone say it caused a short in their cable. I've been using a 50' extension cord for over 30 years, my most used cable and never had an issue with it, had a hose I used for over 20 years and then had to replace it because it became hard and brittle from the Florida sun but I have seen other people with fixes on their extensions and hoses, so I know its a possibility but I don't know what kind of workout or abuse other people have put their tools through. When I was younger I put my tools through their paces but I learned to be easier on them as time went on, hopefully the coil cable will handle the light use that I plan on putting it through by swinging the excal, I attached a bungee to keep it from being pulled taught, so I am hoping that will lower the odds for me.

I'm sure their are others who would allow or accidentally allow their shaft to drop or put weight against the cable and may have caused undo harm to he cable.

Do people have issues with the headphone cables shorting through normal use because it is probably going to have more pressure against it and be pulled on worse than the coil cable? I'm curious...

I worked for ML in repair center, we replaced coils on dozens and dozens of excals that were waist and chest mounted and had shorts in the cables, shorts were not at connectors, they were in the cables 12-18 inches from connectors and had to replace the coils and many times headphones too. Just giving you a heads up is all.

 

[Terry In Florida]

I worked for ML in repair center, we replaced coils on dozens and dozens of excals that were waist and chest mounted and had shorts in the cables, shorts were not at connectors, they were in the cables 12-18 inches from connectors and had to replace the coils and many times headphones too. Just giving you a heads up is all.

No problems, I appreciate the information. I definitely thought about the issue before making the change to a hip mount. I could see it becoming an issue, I'm hoping by using the bungee and being gentle with the excal, it will last a long time. Either way for myself, I can't use the factory machine on land, I have 5 bad discs in my back, so it was causing me too much discomfort to swing it with the weight of it on my arm. By dispersing the weight between my arm and my hip, I am able to enjoy the hobby again, fairly comfortably to a point. If at some point I have to send it in to be repaired, i'll have to bite the bullet.

Sorry if I sounded like a jack-ass, not my intention.

I was curious about the headphones because it does seem as if, either on my hip or on the shaft, the cord can get pretty taunt while swinging the excal.

Thanks.

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

No problems, I appreciate the information. I definitely thought about the issue before making the change to a hip mount. I could see it becoming an issue, I'm hoping by using the bungee and being gentle with the excal, it will last a long time. Either way for myself, I can't use the factory machine on land, I have 5 bad discs in my back, so it was causing me too much discomfort to swing it with the weight of it on my arm. By dispersing the weight between my arm and my hip, I am able to enjoy the hobby again, fairly comfortably to a point. If at some point I have to send it in to be repaired, i'll have to bite the bullet.

Sorry if I sounded like a jack-ass, not my intention.

I was curious about the headphones because it does seem as if, either on my hip or on the shaft, the cord can get pretty taunt while swinging the excal.

Thanks.

Have you tried using a harness, I use harness to hunt and I can hunt from dawn to dusk with no back problems using my excal and that is with 15" coil and I'm over 65. Are you using straight shaft or stock? With straight shat and harness your not supporting the excal with your arm or back, your shoulder supports it like a backpack, your simply steering the coil.

Your looking at about $300 to replace coil with labor and over $500 if both coil and headphones have to be replaced.

Your not coming across as any thing but a member with questions.

FYI a lot of the excals that had shorts had bungie on them between cable and detector and still got shorts.

 

[Terry In Florida]

Have you tried using a harness, I use harness to hunt and I can hunt from dawn to dusk with no back problems using my excal and that is with 15" coil and I'm over 65. Are you using straight shaft or stock? With straight shat and harness your not supporting the excal with your arm or back, your shoulder supports it like a backpack, your simply steering the coil.

Your looking at about $300 to replace coil with labor and over $500 if both coil and headphones have to be replaced.

Your not coming across as any thing but a member with questions.

FYI a lot of the excals that had shorts had bungie on them between cable and detector and still got shorts.

The bungee actually came from a generic looking chest harness but it was uncomfortable and I found myself having to keep adjusting it for difference in ground and my stance. Having to stop everything, set the detector down and adjust. Basically just a wide belt around the waist and a thinned one over the opposite shoulder, with a clip to hook the bungee, bungee had a mount for the excal on one end and a part on the shoulder strap for the other end to pull through and adjust the bungee...

Something that looks like the LEJERMON harness

But it had a belt around the waist and a plastic piece connected to the one coming across the front that would adjust the tension on the bungee...

Which harness do you use?

EDITED:

I actually found it online its called, Swingy Thingy™ Metal Detector Support System, lol.

I guess the guy made a new and improved version called the IMPROVED ULTRA Swingy Thingy

I mean, it worked, just not comfortable for me...

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

I use to use the one that hooked to about the same only it was a chest harness, it didnt hook to the belt.
I then started hooking it to a Camelbak so zi now have cold water with me plus my harness, much more comfortable too. Camelpak came with d-clips too.

What is nice about harness is you can let it go while in the water and detector hangs by my side coil down controls by my shoulder and zi can use both hands on my scoop. On land can let go of detector with out sitting it on ground.

 

[Terry In Florida]

I use to use the one that hooked to about the same only it was a chest harness, it didnt hook to the belt.
I then started hooking it to a Camelbak so zi now have cold water with me plus my harness, much more comfortable too. Camelpak came with d-clips too.

What is nice about harness is you can let it go while in the water and detector hangs by my side coil down controls by my shoulder and zi can use both hands on my scoop. On land can let go of detector with out sitting it on ground.

That's a good idea, I have a pretty rugged backpack but lightweight. I take it with me when I hike, not as much as I used to but still do now and then. Did an 8 mile hike in Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge last year, actually got carried away and walked 4 miles away from the truck and had to walk back, lol. But it worked out, wasn't ever so happy to see my truck, lol...

From the looks of the Camelbaks, they look like the harness is really cushioned at the shoulders. That would be much better, my backpack is too but not so much. Plus you have hydration, mostly what I carry in my backpack anyway...

The harness I had might not have been as bad, had the adjustment for the excal been on the harness and not on the connection at the excal. I think that was the final straw. Probably wouldn't mind a chest harness or Camelbak that was rigged better.

 

[sphillips]

I don't know if this has been beat to death or not but I figured I would share my DIY hip mount I made for my Excal II, I've been using it a while now, so I felt confident about posting it. I know the information has been posted before, so if it doesn't seem like it may be helpful, it won't hurt my feelings for admins to remove it.

I bought 2 nylon tool belts from Home Depot for $5 each, cause I'm big around the waist and needed two. Bought stainless washers bolts and wingnuts to hold the control and battery housings. Then I found out Lowes carries the nylon fasteners that I couldn't find at Home Depot. I used a 1/2" piece of plastic conduit cut to 10" to mount them to the belts.

DIY Hip Mount

Parts List:

1x Husky 2 in. Quick Release Tool Belt - HomeDepot
2x Hillman 2 Count 1/4-in-20 x 1-1/2-in Slotted-Drive Machine Screws - Lowes
2x Hillman 2 Count 1/4-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Regular Wing Nut - Lowes
1x Hillman 4-Count 1/4-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - Lowes
1x JM eagle 1/2 in. x 10 ft. PVC Schedule 40 Conduit - HomeDepot





Price List:

$4.97 1 Husky Tool Belt (Most will only need one, unless they are my size, lol.)
$1.24 2 - 2 pk Nylon Screws
$1.66 2 - 2 pk Nylon Wingnuts
$ .62 1 - 4 pk Nylon Flat Washer
$2.21 Conduit


Subtotal: $11.70
tax .82
Total: $12.52



Started out with the parts, I cut the conduit to 10" and placed the control and battery pods in place with the conduit in the center where I wanted it, then I used a permanent marker to place a center mark for my holes on the conduit. Next I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill my holes, I was careful to do one hole on one side of the conduit, place the bolt into the hole on that side and then get my mark for the other side, and then drill the other side from the opposite direction. instead of just drilling through the conduit from one direction. I did this for each of the three holes, in the end they all lined up perfectly for me this way.

View attachment 1764852


Just have to be absolutely sure of where you are placing the holes and where you want the buckle at. After I knew where I wanted the control and battery pods positioned from the buckle, I made the first hole. I heated a big philips head screwdriver up to burn through the belt and it sealed the holes at the same time. I get perfect holes that don't come apart this way. Then I bolted the belt to the conduit through that first hole to hold it while I sized up and heated through the next hole and so on.

View attachment 1764853


Once I had the holes through the belt, I removed the bolts and put the conduit into the pods, and then bolted it all together. I used a bolt and washer on the inside and a wingnut on the outside of each hole.

View attachment 1764854

View attachment 1764855

I have used it quite a bit and it seems like it is solid, it really made a difference for me. I have bad disks in my back and osteoarthritis in both hips. Using the excal out in front of me with the pods on it, makes a lot of leverage on my back. Putting the weight on my left hip, evens out a lot of it for me. I have to use mods like this or I just can't enjoy the hobby. Right now I drag my scoop behind me, or use it like a walking stick or to lean on, lol... It doesn't seem too bad to carry it along with me. I like the water, everything is a little lighter in the water and I can MD longer that way.

View attachment 1764856

View attachment 1764857

View attachment 1764858


I don't know if it's a mod, I guess it would be, but I clipped a bungee up from my belt that tethers my excal to my right side. So I can let it go, or move it out of the way and use 2 hands on my scoop or pull out my pinpointer if I need to but the excal is only a hands reach away. It also keeps tension off of the cables. Bending is what gets me, so I try to take away as much unneeded bending as possible.

View attachment 1764859



I DIY'ed my own straight shaft also, but I used a $4 aluminum tubing from the metal place down the road from my home and its a little too big of an inside diameter. It's in the last two pictures. I used my caliper and have the measurements, I'm going to try and source it locally but if I can't find the one I want, I found where I can get it online at OnlineMetals for about $35 at 3' which includes shipping. I was thinking of doing a DIY tutorial on that too, when I get the right tube but I would rather have a cheaper source.


Hopefully this one is helpful to someone else and others can enjoy it, like I have...

Very nice Terry, I need to develop a hip mount as well. I did make a straight shaft from marine aluminum tube I bought at the local marine supply here in Ft Pierce, ID and OD were perfect. biggest issue I have is with the coil cord for the headphones, its always tugging on the headset because its too short. Where did you get your hand grip? Need to get one like that.

steve

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

Sphillips, go to a bike shop and check out the handle bar extensions.