Red marks concrete vaults, yellow marks the older metal clad vaults, orange marks wooden caskets with no vaults, blue marks the graves where the contents have decayed away leaving only a void, white marks the ones whose identity is known (even though I have them temporally marked unknown because I ran out of stakes)May I ask why the different colors?
I use a spring steel probe and a Ground Pounder, which is really a device used for driving in ground rods that I converted. It has a 19 pound weight, and when you thump on a grave you can actually feel the vibrations trough your feet.How do you find the unmarked graves?
Nice!!! Good Job!!!A bunch of graves that is. I started on Phase 3 of my cemetery restoration project. Just wanted to share what it looks like in the early stages of Phase 3.View attachment 2050429View attachment 2050430View attachment 2050431View attachment 2050431View attachment 2050431View attachment 2050432
Yup .. mine has a tubular tee handle on it as well. Even if the ground is hard, once you break through the top layer, things go pretty well, so long as you don't bend the probe in the process. For the real hard areas, I use a probe with ½" diameter solid steel construction with a sharpened tip. My spring probe is only 3/8."If the ground is soft that probe works really well. I have a big tee handle on mine. Nice work in helping them on the relocation.
Well done on the previous and this project going forward.Yup .. mine has a tubular tee handle on it as well. Even if the ground is hard, once you break through the top layer, things go pretty well, so long as you don't bend the probe in the process. For the real hard areas, I use a probe with ½" diameter solid steel construction with a sharpened tip. My spring probe is only 3/8."
Thank you. I have one person helping with the research, but I am the only one working in the cemetery.Well done on the previous and this project going forward.
How many folks are involved in the restoration project?
We had probes (for bottle digging) that were constructed from old tent rods.
Spring steel that were welded to a pipe/tube handle.
The steel handle absorbed too much of the hit if in rocky areas, where I'm thinking a wood handle now to absorb some of the vibration.
I've been on the top side of those for many hrs in the past life. Did a few years with a rural water company. Actually funniest job I've ever had.Here is generic stainless one... still looking for the one i recommend.
Notice the tip being larger... but not as pointed as i like,,, this is a WORLD of difference.
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Yup .. I have spent many years with probes. First started back in the early 1970's. I, too, have used a plethora of different probes, some I made, some I had made, and some I bought. The one I used on Civil War sights actually had a pseudo-stethoscope that could be attached to the tube. It was amazing what you could hear!JYI... and IMO... from probing many a soil...
A tapering pointed tip slightly larger than rod works with a speed and finesse that is unmatched.
I have used a multitude of probes... and the larger diameter pointed tip spreads hole and smaller shaft offers very little to no resistance.
Will post example of what IMO is the best probe made.
Voices ? ? ?Yup .. I have spent many years with probes. First started back in the early 1970's. I, too, have used a plethora of different probes, some I made, some I had made, and some I bought. The one I used on Civil War sights actually had a pseudo-stethoscope that could be attached to the tube. It was amazing what you could hear!
That is what I have in size as well. Mine has a wooden handle 3/8 brass tip 1/4 rod. They work well on finding many things including privy holes and such. Nice work you are doing.Yup .. mine has a tubular tee handle on it as well. Even if the ground is hard, once you break through the top layer, things go pretty well, so long as you don't bend the probe in the process. For the real hard areas, I use a probe with ½" diameter solid steel construction with a sharpened tip. My spring probe is only 3/8."