hydrofloric acid gold etching services in california?

[beekbuster]

wondering if anyone can guide me in the right direction. i cannot find any information pertaining to what i am looking for. i have accumulated a few nice pieces and would like to have one etched. any help is appreciated. thanks

 

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[IMAUDIGGER]

Straight 1% HF being used by a professional cleaning company.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ut2koMAWuNg

 

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[mytimetoshine]

Isn't this what Goldwasher does?.Surpised he hasn't chimed in yet

 

[Asmbandits]

Hydrofloric acid is a main chemical used in the automated touch less car wash industry, the “soap” consists of a acid pass, then a base pass. The acid is a diluted form of hf acid, I’ve read the label first hand and seen hf listed as an ingredient,and felt the burns on my skin when working on the washes. Also don’t breath deep when doing a test wash... sounds crazy but it’s the truth, I’ve been exposed to this stuff on a chronic level for years and have yet to have and long term affects that I’m aware of.

I’ve actual used it straight from the drum in a electrolysis cell to remove gold from electronic components.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

So Whink Rust Remover is 1% -2.5% HF. It has an acute dermal toxicity rating of category 3.
(Category 2 is fatal if contact with skin)
Eye Damage is Category 1 (highest rating) permenant damage if it comes in contact with the eye. That’s skull and cross bones stuff. It will dissolve quartz and rust.

I just read where the auto cleaning industry uses <20% HF concentrate that they dilute for their wash. That stuff requires some serious respect. You don’t get away with a red rash that goes away if it gets on your skin. It painlessly burns to the bone. You may not notice it for a couple days. By then the damage has been done. Worst part is it sticks around inside you forever slowly messing with your insides.

If you spill it on your hands, they will likely have to remove some of your fingernails. Nightmare stuff.

Your palm of your hand (including fingers) is 1% of your body.
>50% HF, 1% body burn is fatal.
<50% (any concentration) HF, 5% body burn can be fatal according to what I’m reading.

 

[N-Lionberger]

Friends of mine who have had trouble with the stuff were exposed by tiny little cracks n holes in their industrial grade elbow length chemical gloves. A trace of a drop will sink right through your tissue and upon contact with bone causes decalcification which can spread through joints. Exposed tissue turns black and blue and acts like it has been smacked with a hammer and nails fall off. Serious **** its one of the most hazardous substances a civilian can lay his hands on.

 

[Asmbandits]

All this talk about bone deterioration has me spooked.. I've literally had my hands covered in the stuff, ususlly and 1-60 seconds before you start to feel the burn. A quick dab of the base chemical would usually neutralize it on contact. Ive inhaled it more than anything, adjusting chemical application and such. It would instantly make you choke. Sounds crazy but no one I worked for or with seemed like it s a big deal. I have since switched company's to one that uses a citrus based presoak. Good thing to know though if I start having health issues.

 

[bug]

I remember handling a quartz specimen that wasnt properly neutralized after etching was done and noticed a burning sensation on my hand a few minutes later. Even though the guy washed it off good after the acid dip, there was obviously some residual down deep in the stone that slowly was still weeping out. So if your using the stuff, make sure you properly neutralize and wash that nasty stuff out.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

All this talk about bone deterioration has me spooked.. I've literally had my hands covered in the stuff, ususlly and 1-60 seconds before you start to feel the burn. A quick dab of the base chemical would usually neutralize it on contact. Ive inhaled it more than anything, adjusting chemical application and such. It would instantly make you choke. Sounds crazy but no one I worked for or with seemed like it s a big deal. I have since switched company's to one that uses a citrus based presoak. Good thing to know though if I start having health issues.

The HF in the “pre-soak” was probably fairly dilluted (which doesn’t make it any better).
The danger with the diluted HF is that you don’t feel the burn until then next day and by that time the damage is done. You were probably feeling the burn due to another type of acid that was mixed into the Pre-soak solution.

I’d say you probably escaped injury and are lucky you are not working in an environment like that anymore.

 

[beekbuster]

what is the process to neutralize the specimen after its done soaking in wink? i have a couple nuggets with quartz that needs removed. would be a good way to get an idea of what to expect for the larger pieces.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

Google HF Safety to get ideas on safety and handling.
Not just any gloves will work. But I found everything I needed at Ace Hardware.
Don’t lift the specimen up where it can fall back in the solution causing splashing.
Have a clean place to work.

Think about pets and kids.
Swallowing 1 oz. of 2% HF has been fatal.
Nothing that looks like a drink!

When I did it last time I drained off the used acid each day and turned the specimen.
If I were doing it again, I’d probably just add to it each day.
It would be in a plastic container with a secure screw on lid.

The only time I’d be handling it would be to remove specimen using tongs or maybe fishing line to transfer it to the neutralizing solution.
The lid could be secured to the acid container for safe transport for disposal.

https://www.honeywell-hfacid.com/document/hf-neutralization/?download=1%20onclick=
Beware some of the chemicals used to neutralize HF can cause bad burns as well.

I’d let it soak for a few days while neautralizing the specimen.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

This guy used Whink without gloves (overlooked the skull and cross bones I guess).

https://www.doctorslounge.com/dermatology/forums/backup/topic-46036.html

This alternative method looks to work much faster and removes more quartz. It has its own risks. I think I might try this next time instead of Whink.

 

[Goldwasher]

Isn't this what Goldwasher does?.Surpised he hasn't chimed in yet

believe it or not I've been trying to be on TNET less.

Yes it is exactly what I do.

You can barely tell theres gold in most of my finds when they come out of the ground

i use heat and shock. Muriatic acid , or Whink rust remover.

Vinegar, coca cola, and even hot sauce.

dental picks and a long deck screw as a mini auger popper.

allof this allows me to let the speci. do the talking based on what coes off

the muriatic is slow controlable and easy to neutralize. whink reguires more caution.

I've never hurt myself or " ruined a piece"

there is also a glass etch product available I was given some by another digger.

I haven't used it since Claydiggins turned me onto Whink

a before and after of just a basic clean up.. if you have continuity in a piece and know a lump is all the way through in even a week of acid-neutralze-pick tools repeat you can get rid of most or all of the quartz.. calcite is a little longer.

Some host rock like slate and granodiorite just melts away in one or two soaks or gets soft enough to brush off.

 

[Goldwasher]

Man I sure did miss this thread..lol

You guys are all gonna DIEEEEE...

From reading the internet..100% effective to making the sky fall..


I use baking soda and water to neutralize.. I soak the pieces in a solution with so much there's still powder in the bottom of the cup.

when I use whink I also run a hose into the container (Post neutralize bath) at flow enough to exchange about a tablespoon of whater a minute.. for several hours

theres grass growing there so...there is that..

With muriatic I let it sit until the bubbles stop coming out of the matrix..take piece out of soda water, let the piece sit.. if it leaches out yellow after a few hours ..it goes in the soda water longer..then a dilution rinse..


I handle the pieces quite a bit within minutes of rinse..thats when I'm using the pick a toothbrush and a spray bottle... I've had water splashed on my face from the spay...I don't wear gloves.

I try to remeber to wear glasses for the flying mini quartz shrapnel.


NO BURNS

 

[oldmancoyote1]

THERE IS A SAFE AND EASY WAY TO ETCH WITH HYDROFLUORIC ACID.

I WILL EXPLAIN IN A MINUTE, BUT KNOW THAT EVEN FUMES FROM HYDROFLUORIC ACID ARE HORRIBLE.

OK. Scary stuff aside, go to a stained glass hobby shop and buy a bottle of the hydrofluoric acid stuff they sell to etch glass. It's "buffered" in a way to render it mostly harmless. This will probably do what you want. If you are not trying to etch, but instead dissolve quartz etc, that is another matter entirely. Leave it to the pros.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

Man I sure did miss this thread..lol

You guys are all gonna DIEEEEE...

From reading the internet..100% effective to making the sky fall..


I use baking soda and water to neutralize.. I soak the pieces in a solution with so much there's still powder in the bottom of the cup.

when I use whink I also run a hose into the container (Post neutralize bath) at flow enough to exchange about a tablespoon of whater a minute.. for several hours

theres grass growing there so...there is that..

With muriatic I let it sit until the bubbles stop coming out of the matrix..take piece out of soda water, let the piece sit.. if it leaches out yellow after a few hours ..it goes in the soda water longer..then a dilution rinse..


I handle the pieces quite a bit within minutes of rinse..thats when I'm using the pick a toothbrush and a spray bottle... I've had water splashed on my face from the spay...I don't wear gloves.

I try to remeber to wear glasses for the flying mini quartz shrapnel.


NO BURNS

“Wink requires more caution”
10-4 on that. Safety glasses and gloves.
There is no denying that it consists of 2.5% - 3% HF which causes permanent damage to your eyes and is lethal if swallowed. It will enter your system just the same as stronger HF.

It’s easily avoided, but nothing to be calvalier about.

 

[beekbuster]

thanks for a visual of the results goldwasher! looks great. if it ever stops raining ill be out there looking for more.

 

[Tpmetal]

right. and is not legal to possess without a special license, nor would i ever think of getting anywhere near that stuff. which is why i am searching for someone who has the qualifications and experience in the services i am seeking

actually thats not true, at least in certain concentrations. I can buy it for glass etching and have used it in the past, but I too try stay far far away form that stuff.

 

[Goldwasher]

thanks for a visual of the results goldwasher! looks great. if it ever stops raining ill be out there looking for more.

thats just a short two soak two neutralize wash.

the one thing the acid does is help to weaken the matrix for easier mechanical material removal.

If you have a piece that is mainly gold and soak it longer the matrix will eventually come almost all the way off on its own but with such weak acids it takes a while.

 

[Goldwasher]

Not being cavalier i'm being an experienced smart ass.

Whink is not HFL it is a solution containing a % of. Pouring on like hand sanitizer is probably not a good idea though.

If you read the bottle it is used on clothes.. guess how you neutralize a towel you cleaned with whink?

You put it in the washing machine...with othwer clothes.


I know it may be a mistake but, I'm assuming that anyone who is going to be using these diluted acids wil still use common sense

My point was thaat after being properly neutralized the pieces are very safe to handle.

Study up on how to handle the acid. and what and how to neutralize. Proper disposal of used solution.

Proper work environment.

the fact is a slight breeze and the tailgate of your truck are perfectly safe.

Don't stick your face over the containers to look. The whink I use comes in a safety squeeze no splash bottle. Muriatic is easy to pour. when I'm transferring small amounts in small containers i use tongs... cause if it gets on a glove i have to take those gloves off... with my hands..

I use long tweezers to pull out pieces that I want to neutralize and work on.. while leaving others to soak longer.

Keep in mind this is etching.. so its a small layer at a time...

I have no desire to work with a stronger acid. Caution is required with what I use.. but, it is in no way the same as working with the stronger formulas available.

I've had hours of mandatory chemical safety and MSDS training. I've used chemicals in commercial dishwashers that were much more dangerous than Whink rust remover.

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

Post deleted, oldmancoyote, please read our rules.