Lightweight Jackhammer

[Goodyguy]

My newest toy..........
Has anyone used one of these?

Hopefully it will be much easier than single jacking with hammer and chisel
Cant wait to try it and see.


Wt. 21lbs.





GG~

 

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[Merc]

GG, Please be careful with your new toys! Safety First. I went though a six month school in the US Navy that exceeded a two year degree in electrical degree. The instructors would joke about how you have not been bitten till some 400 hertz zapped you once. I never had that pleasure as they say, Thank GOD! 120 volts 60 hertz is one of the most dangerous currents that can get a hold of you! It will grab you and hold one while 220/240 will kick the crap out of you and go HA HA. Some of this stuff below is common sense but when we are out working, get excited or in a hurry we some times forget. (Working, when you enjoy doing something most of the time it is never work!)

Make sure you get a quality 15 amp #12 GFCI, extension cord and you want the GFCI at the generator not at your tool. You can purchase a 100 foot cord with the GFCI circuit built in and that is best if you are going to be a long distance. Depending on how long the extension cord is you will need to go bigger. A 12 gauge is rate for 15 amps 100 ft a max. You can ignore this rating and it will shorten the life of your equipment. With your 10 am draw on the drill I would stay with in a 150 foot with a 12 gauge cord with two connections if possible, 3 at the very max if you have the short GFCI cord at the gen. Any longer than 100 ft I would go to get one length of 12ga cord to 150 ft max and buy the waterproof connections for it. Any more than that you will need to go to a solid 10 gauge extension cord with no connections. I do not buy the cheapest extension cords, all of my outside cords are 12 gauge yellow jacket. Also for added safety I make a loop when I join extension cords so they do not come undone and pull on the joints, like your going to tie your tennis shoes. If it is wet around where your working I would use some rubber electric tape and tape up any connections with two layers of tape. Pull on the tape as you put it on to make it bond to the other layer. I would get a 12 ga 100 ft and a 50 ft, and use one or the other. You want to have the Gen as close to the work as possible. Each connection creates resistance in the cords. It would be a good idea to keep one or two rolls of the rubber electric tape handy when you are using this...

Any cracks in the outside casing on the cords I would use a three to four layers of the rubber electric tape to fix the crack. Tape around one foot total or six inches on each side of the break with half over laps. If the insulation on the wire is broken I would cut the cord in to at the break and two cords out of it. Then I would purchase a new longer extension cord. If out in the field you can tape up the broken wire, then put some added tape around the casing but I would replace it ASAP.

Here are a couple links from Amazon... I would not buy any cords from ebay! Some on the cords sold on there are not rated for sale in our Country. They are very cheaply made and dangerous.


Yellow Jacket 2817 12/3 SJTW In-Line GFCI with Lighted End, 2-Feet - Amazon.com

Scotch Rubber Mastic Electrical Tape, 1-Inch by 10-Foot by .065-Inch - Amazon.com

I would make sure the cords stay out of puddles of water at all times, get you some 1/4" string and tie them up on something. I saw a man step into a puddle of water on a job site once... Something I never want to see again! Remember if someone is being shocked do not touch them! Best to cut the power source as fast as possible. Any shocks please seek medical attention at once. Go get checked out because you may feel & seem fine right then... Then you could drop dead a few hours later from Heart rhythm problems.

Congrats on your new toys!

Jerry

 

[Goodyguy]

Thanks, Jerry

Good info!
I also must keep the generator away from the mine entrance due to (CO) output from the exhaust.
As well as wearing a respirator to keep from inhaling silica dust (silicosis) and other harmful nastys. Also eye protection (have a full face shield)

Really appreciate the cord and breaker info.
Thanks again,

GG~

 

[goldenIrishman]

Ok... I had to look when I saw the title for the thread. I'm not usually in the "Hard Rock" section, but when I saw "Lightweight Jackhammer" I couldn't help but think... Isn't that like Military Intelligence, Jumbo Shrimp and Honest politicians?

Something like that could be handy for doing some major crackin along a stream bed as well.

 

[loco oro]

you will not be disappointed, only advice i have for you is try to resist the urge to (pry) with it, they wont last long doing that,when using mine i wear a tool belt with bars in it for prying, when you see that gap begin to widen its natural to want pry with it.i have busted much concrete with those little ones in hard to get to places.ive busted a few of them too,prying.

 

[Goodyguy]

Good advice Loco

 

[augoldminer]

Jackhammers do not do much underground in hard rock.

I had a small air Chipping hammer that i would use to chip out small holes to anchor mine timbers in and chip down lose blasted rock.
http://www.reliableequipment.net/pdfs/APTChippingHammer.pdf

Its very easy to over heat the Chisels and lose the temper.

Most of the work i did with it was to drive Plug and feathers to split rock after i had drilled with a rock drill.
Plug and feather - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Sheldon J]

Multiple issues here...

1.CO has been mentioned, it can travel back on a simple breeze a very long way....

2. GFI needed, (they make extension cords with them built in) electrical shock, very bad...

3. Ever heard of a "Widow Maker" well you have an electrical version of one... Wear breathing protection, Eye protection, all the PPE's no joke rock dust very bad stuff....

Now what did I miss... Oh yeah have fun and find some gold

 

[Goodyguy]

Beware of Co (carbon monoxide)
GFCI and 12ga extension cord
Eye Protection
Respirator
No prying with the jackhammer
Have Fun
Get Some Gold.


Thanks for all the suggestions


GG~

 

[roadrunner]

I have a simalier version but mine is the bulldog brand. Use it all the time on caliche and concrete.
Great handling, and can use it all day without any sore or stiff muscles.

 

[truckinbutch]

I've had great results with one on very hard sandstone . Both drilling for feathers and wedges and using chisels . Hilti was the brand I used .

 

[tamrock]

I in the past I sold the chisels and points for those hammers of all sizes to all the rental yards in the mountain and south west states for a company called Brunner & Lay. It will all depend on the compressive strength of the material your working on that will determine the outcome of how well that hammer will do for you. The harder the material the harder it works and the impact piston will heat up and fail much faster along with the points and chisel that will be failing at a faster rate. You can get your points and chisels re-sharpened and tempered correctly at some blacksmith shops and that will cut cost. If you ever consider getting into drilling and loading holes, I sell now all you need to drill the round, bar down and anchor support the ground. I just don't handle any of the stuff to shoot the rock. I've herd there are some alternatives to blasting, that may not require any of the permits to handle and purchase explosives. I know some of the blasting companies I deal with have had to use those non explosive rated devices before, due to the location of the job being to close to building. In the past I sold rock drills to the Sweet Home mine in Alma Colorado and they used a hydraulic rock splitter, because blasting would have destroyed all the mineral specimens they were mining underground. I know the fellow who did all that mining of the Sweet Home as I use his warehouse as a ship point for any truck freight stuff for me here close to home. He's got a hyd.rock splitter from China. I'll check on how that thing is working out for him as it was purchased at a bargain price. The best rock splitters I'm told are made by Darta and can cost 20+ grand new for the setup. All this just a thought. Sure hope that hammer does the job. It sure is a sweet looking little set up!

 

[Goodyguy]

I in the past I sold the chisels and points for those hammers of all sizes to all the rental yards in the mountain and south west states for a company called Brunner & Lay. It will all depend on the compressive strength of the material your working on that will determine the outcome of how well that hammer will do for you. The harder the material the harder it works and the impact piston will heat up and fail much faster along with the points and chisel that will be failing at a faster rate. You can get your points and chisels re-sharpened and tempered correctly at some blacksmith shops and that will cut cost. If you ever consider getting into drilling and loading holes, I sell now all you need to drill the round, bar down and anchor support the ground. I just don't handle any of the stuff to shoot the rock. I've herd there are some alternatives to blasting, that may not require any of the permits to handle and purchase explosives. I know some of the blasting companies I deal with have had to use those non explosive rated devices before, due to the location of the job being to close to building. In the past I sold rock drills to the Sweet Home mine in Alma Colorado and they used a hydraulic rock splitter, because blasting would have destroyed all the mineral specimens they were mining underground. I know the fellow who did all that mining of the Sweet Home as I use his warehouse as a ship point for any truck freight stuff for me here close to home. He's got a hyd.rock splitter from China. I'll check on how that thing is working out for him as it was purchased at a bargain price. The best rock splitters I'm told are made by Darta and can cost 20+ grand new for the setup. All this just a thought. Sure hope that hammer does the job. It sure is a sweet looking little set up!

Thanks for your input,

There's many non explosive demo agents on the market nowadays.
I remember when it was just Dexpan and Bustar.

But now that list has grown to include:
Crackamite
Ecobust
Cracker
Split Agent
Rock frac
Crack Agent
And the list goes on.

I'll take some with me just in case but I do not really see it being a big help except in perhaps a rare application where a large mass of super hard rock needs to be exploited or some such.

I have a huge 4'x3' fresnel lens that will super heat a boulder with concentrated sunlight and then a little cold water will do the rest. It's pretty cool to see it in action. A little dangerous but cool all the same. (porous rocks containing moisture may explode when superheated)

GG~

 

[tamrock]

Thanks for your input,

There's many non explosive demo agents on the market nowadays.
I remember when it was just Dexpan and Bustar.

But now that list has grown to include:
Crackamite
Ecobust
Cracker
Split Agent
Rock frac
Crack Agent
And the list goes on.

I'll take some with me just in case but I do not really see it being a big help except in perhaps a rare application where a large mass of super hard rock needs to be exploited or some such.

I have a huge 4'x3' fresnel lens that will super heat a boulder with concentrated sunlight and then a little cold water will do the rest. It's pretty cool to see it in action. A little dangerous but cool all the same. (porous rocks containing moisture may explode when superheated)

GG~

I here that. Very often taking a technological step backwards is a good thing. I at times do visit a place, that by some is know as "the good ol' days" I find all kinds of solutions to problems back that way. Also,Thanks! you've reminded me of some crazy ideas I've lost track of in my brain. I better write them down this time.

 

[tamrock]

One thing I worked with a fella on years back was these Boulder Buster folks when they were here in Golden Colorado. I sold him a small sinker rock drill and he made a hydraulic operating arm to mount on the front of a pickup. He used the Hyd. system made for a pickup mount snow blade to run the arm. The pneumatic rock drill I sold him ran from a 185cfm compressor pulled behind. The rig was built so this quarry could do secondary blasting of the big boulders after the blast using his Boulder Busters. It was cold in the winter at that quarry and an operator could do his drilling from inside the cab of the pickup. It worked great and the Boulder buster guy purchased a couple more sinker drills to build more of his pickup truck drilling rig.... Boulder Buster: Solution for Breaking Rock, Boulders & Concrete

 

[augoldminer]

There is a new small rock splitting system i have seen.

MICROBLASTER II W/THREE HEAD