Should I get a Classic series?

[keredc]

Ok before I start I'll give a run-down of my decisions:

At first I was looking at either the Prizm II or the Ace 250. I chose the Ace 250 cause it had more features.

Then after a bit of reading I found the Ace had no actual true all-metal mode and no adjustment for ground balance. Not sure of the depth on it though.

So I started looking at the Fisher 1225-X and Silver UMax. I figured they may not have the display, but they'd have better depth into the ground. Well all-metal is only in pinpointing, no adjustable ground balance, and has silent discrimination.

So now I'm checking up on the Classic SL series.

Ok so here I am so far lol. I was wondering about some things on them.

1. Is it an actual all-metal mode on them or is it like the Ace 250?

2. What is the difference between the Classic series and Classic SL? I ask cause of this link here http://www.tomstreasures.com/whitesreviews.html , which the review for the Classic III says it's worse than normal in trashy areas, whereas the Classic SL III reviews have no such complaints. Is it differing opinion or is the SL series superior in trash?

3. What is/are the differences between the Classic II and Classic III? How big of a difference do they make? I think it's something like an extra knob & coil on the III.

4. How much would a Classic SL II or Classic SL III cost me? I know I can't get one new that's for sure lol.

Now I know I may be a little or way off on some of the things I've said here so please excuse me for that lol. Out of all this I am just trying to find the one with the best depth, settings, and quality. A display or meter doesn't really matter to me. And any input or suggestions on all this would be greatly appreciated . Thank you for taking your time to read all of this. I know it's a long post.

p.s. I still have to check these out, but how good are the Pro series (4900/D Pro, 5900/D Pro, 6000/D Pro) and the Quantum series?

 

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[keredc]

Here's another link I found http://www.findmall.com/read.php?31,297562,297716

Is the 4900/D Pro as good as the 6000/D Pro and 5900/D Pro? And if so why does it have such bad reviews on that tomtreasures site?

<rant>Bah it's so frustrating . There's some review on tomstreasures saying that without auto ground balance you constantly have to change it. I wish some people would make up their mind, instead of 'my detector is the best it beat my friends $50,000 detector.', reviews saying auto gb is good and others saying it's bad, or just completely horrible reviews while others say something is great. It's getting very confusing cause these reviews are all I really have to rely on .</rant>

 

[Rusted_Iron]

Is the Classic series based on the features and circuitry of the White's 6000/D or Di detectors? If it is (I dont know yet), I'd say you couldn't go wrong with the Classic, since the 6000's were such great detectors. Let me know if you find that out.

If anything was a classic, it was those detectors. I have the Sears version of the Coinmaster 6000D and LOVE it.

I have a friend who bought one of the first 6000/D coinmasters that came out... and he still finds stuff with it all the time. So if this new Classic series has even slight improvements over that unit, then it's a winner.

 

[Mighty AP]

Big question here Keredc............what is your budget? How much money are you willing to drop for your new machine? Are you open to buying a used machine? Where will you hunt(parks, beach etc) & what will you be hunting for, coins, relics?

 

[hollowpointred]

yeah, what type of hunting do you want to do? unless you are into prospecting true all metal mode may not be as usefull as you think.

 

[rcasi44]

I've talked to Monte and he thinks highly of the Classic III sl. He has a modified one and claims geart success on the beaches out his way. Without looking the two extra knobs are frequency adjust and black sand.. They have the lower-end adjustment in the Disc. range afforded by the Black Sand setting. Rob

 

[dahut]

Ive had Classics on and off for years and have always liked them. They are excellent iron discriminators and so smooth-toned. The Classic III SL had a few circuit changes that didnt drastically improve its performance over previous designs, so I sent mine to Mr Bill and had him boost it... It didnt make that much diference, either. It was still a great detector.. but I'll never buy another and neither should you.

Why should we, with the advances in todays detectors? I'd be willing to wager the new M6 and other Prizm detectors are at least based on the Classic circuit(s), if not outright adaptations, only adding a few features here and there. I started with a CIII and ended up with a CIII SL. Now, all I can say is that once I tried the current generation of ID capable models, the older progressive, mono-tone DISC as found on the CIII pales. Fast.

Scrimp and save, borrow, beg if you have to, but come into the new age. If it was me ( and it may be next year ), I'd get the M6 and learn to listen REAL good to it.

 

[Willy]

Actually, the M6 is based on the MXT, which shares the same basic platform as the GMT. As for the prizms.. dunno. TID is very handy.. but can be a trap that loses you finds. I've hunted in many areas where I could almost see the settings previous MD'ers were using and what kind of detector. I'd just search where they'd already been and haul out the goodies. ..Willy BTW, I too have TID detectors (GTI 2500, XTerra70, MXT).

 

[dahut]

TID and Classic series...

... I agree, TID CAN be a crutch, but it doesnt have to be. It is still up to you to dig - otherwise, all you are doing is locating targets.

However, I doubt anyone would argue that detectors have gotten just plain better. TID features are just one of the indicators that this is so. The ability to handle ground conditons automatically, target separation and low-noise circuits have brought us a long way from where the Classic was. That really is the point of all this.

Aside from strictly financial concerns, who wouldn't rather have these features on hand - whether you use them all or not at any given time? You can always swing it basic, if you want. And I usually do. BUT, having these features can also open doors.

Yesterday I was reconnoitering a new location. After digging about twenty or thirty zincers and a million lightbulb bases, I took note of where these ID'd at and their signature features. Then for the duration of my short recon, I could concentrate on other items, so as to complete my "mission."
Did I miss something good? Possibly, but the odds are against it - and I can now go back, knowing far more than I did. I would not have learned as much nor made much headway at this particular site if I had to dig each and every one of those junk items.

I couldn't have done all that without a reliable TID. I say get it and learn to use it, from a "DIG To Know" mindset. You'll come out better in the end.

 

[galaxy51]

Re: Should I get a Classic series? Which Classic?

There were 2 Classics from White. One was a Coinmaster Classic, available in I, II, and III, which had a black control box that was closer to a cube shape than the other Classic series. This other series, not the Coinmaster, also had a black control box which was shallow and more wide and long, like a cigar box. This Classic style is the one that you see in the SL version and the different ID type Classics.
My question is were the two similar in performance? I have read a lot of info on the cigar box style that has me believing it was a very good detector. Does anyone have a source of info on the Coinmaster I, II, III, or any actual experience with them? They required 3 9v batteries which leads me to believe they were older but they also had the black box which leads me to believe they were newer than some of the other Coinmasters with older style blue boxes? Very confusing to me.

 

[dahut]

Dont be confused. If its a black-box Whites (now THAT is confusing!!) it was up to the demand.

Im going to recant my former position a little here and make some good comments about the Classics. I hope you wont hold this against me.

I used one of the Coinmaster series Classic III's for a long time - in fact it was the first White's detector I ever had. Was it as good as the later SL models? I think so - in fact there were a few advantages to it. And if Im not too far wrong, they were the same circuitry, albeit in different housings. There were a few changes over the life of the production runs, but nothing drastic. The coils that worked for the SL's and other Whites detectors would work on the CM's as well, so thats a plus.

The three 9V's were easy to change, so thats no worry. The later SL's had the 8AA packs that are so popular. On the CIII CM's, one 9V drove the audio circuit while the other two drove the detection circuits.

The controls were the same on both detectors, except for the placement of the control box itself. The Coinmasters, being underslung on the "S" rod, were actually fair TID instruments, in that you could thumb the DISC knob over targets. The SL models made that a bit of a contortion with the controls under the forearm.

You can even have Mr Bill bring the GB and the THRESH controls out to the front panels on either model to add to the detectors utility. I did it myself on the CIII CM and it would be as easy on the SL's, if you were so inclined. I'd recommend Bill, though, for two reasons:
1. He's a great guy who does top notch work, which he stands behind. That spells V-A-L-U-E
2. He can also tweak the gain circuitry to maximize its potential - something you and I would be at a loss to do.

There are few detectors that are as smooth to operate as the Classics. They were especially good on iron, cleanly and smoothly DISC'ing out ferrous items. I did some testing of my Mr Bill CIII/SL against a Tesoro Golden and my ACE 250 and the Classic was the hands down winner for smooth operation.

If you like smooth, "beep and dig" detecting without displays, doodads and other distractions, then you will enjoy these models.... and they can be had at good prices, last time I checked.

David

 

[SkiWhiz]

I have a White's Classic III not a coin master. It takes 8 AA size batteries, it is a great detector - well built/light and well balanced/very good discrimination/great at pinpointing/goes deep enough/alot of fun to use. I have the 950 coil on it and have not had Mr. Bill's mods done on it. I have other detectors that are newer but I still use the Classic III alot because I enjoy it so much. Steve (upstate New York).

 

[Mike95inNJ]

I'm a Classic II owner for 10 years now and have only used this detector in that time. I'm not sure but I don't see the pinpoint/all metal trigger on the Coinmasters like on the Classic SL's. Mine takes the 8 AA batteries. I recently did the ground balance and threshold trimmer mod on mine. (Last night actually). Have'nt had a chance to get out there and try it yet, but it does give it more versatility.
Good Luck,Mike in NJ

 

[aladdin]

I ve got one (SL) and love it I don't need anything but ears I can tune out other detectors and can run it on a set of batteries forever. It will bring home the Gold /Silver/Whatever. Great detector and easy to handle as well depth a ok. I use it on the beach/wet /dry with good results. Add a 5.3 coil in a trash area you are in business. happy u bet. Good main/spare/whatever detector. gooddiggin!

 

[Ridley]

I use a Classic SL II.
The small coil rocks! You can't beat it in trashy areas. No meter, No VDI , just one tone that sings to you. It's also very good at pinpointing.

I'm thinking of getting another one on Ebay as a backup.


Ridley

 

[Dimeman]

My old detector is a Coinmaster Classic III, and I used it off and on for the last 17 years.It got me a bunch of good coins over the years.
This year I wanted a better electronics unit, so I upgraded to a new M6, and also got a used IDX off of Ebay for a backup.
The IDX is much better than the CM Classic III.

If you want a good detector for less than 250, try getting the IDX or IDX Pro.
With the White's brand you can't go too wrong.
And if you have 600-650 you can get the M6.


Dimeman

 

[thompy]

the classic III and IDX are the same minus the TID, Ive used the III, ID and IDXpro all good machines, but for the price i would go with the QXT, similarly priced when buying used, but the QXT has more options, with the fast audio responce of the classics, can set high tones for wanted zones, sizing bar graph, Ive had 2 of them and looking for a third for a replacement for the ones Ive sold

 

[Coinage]

There's a classic idx pro with the mr bill mod for sale over in the classifieds here, I have a buddy that has one with the mod, quite an impressive machine, I was thinking about getting it but might get a beach hunter ID instead.
HH Dave

 

[Dimeman]

the classic III and IDX are the same minus the TID, Ive used the III, ID and IDXpro all good machines, but for the price i would go with the QXT, similarly priced when buying used, but the QXT has more options, with the fast audio responce of the classics, can set high tones for wanted zones, sizing bar graph, Ive had 2 of them and looking for a third for a replacement for the ones Ive sold

My old Coinmaster Classic III (1990) is not as good as my IDX (1994??)... has the same controls, except the IDX has Target ID and a bit better electronics. The IDX goes a bit deeper in finding coins. A side by side test was done after I got my used IDX. Same day, same time, same target, same settings, and same size coils.
The IDX found a silver dime in the yard, and the Coinmaster Classic III didn't see it, at any angle.
The newer Classics are probably the same, as the IDX units, but the older Coinmasters, though it is a good detector, do not have the same upgraded electronics.

Just my opinion.

 

[tabsrus]

I was wondering how do these machines do with relics? The Classics and the IDX?