What is the best underwater detector to find gold and silver coins and rings?

[OBXmetalDet]

My Nokta PulseDive Underwater Metal Detector failed on me after going into the water (and not even using it). When I came back on land, although I could turn it on, I couldn't detect metal. Maybe some water got into it.

I'm looking for something that is handheld so about 15" long.

I would be diving right off the shore/beach in relatively shallow, but it would be good to have the ability to go much deeper in case I ever decide to boat dive.

Can anybody recommend anything?

 

[billb]

One of my better yrs

View attachment 2211778

Outstanding Performance
Congratulations on your success!!!!

 

[cudamark]

Are these the aftermarket knobs that you got?

No, like I said, I got mine at a local electronics store. Mine have brass center hubs with brass set screws. I use and anti-seize compound for both the posts and set screws to keep them from corroding.

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

No, like I said, I got mine at a local electronics store. Mine have brass center hubs with brass set screws. I use and anti-seize compound for both the posts and set screws to keep them from corroding.

Yes, I have the Anderson shafts, and knobs with the brass, plus the remote pp switch. Love hunting in all metal with my excals.....

 

[CapnGeorge]

My Nokta PulseDive Underwater Metal Detector failed on me after going into the water (and not even using it). When I came back on land, although I could turn it on, I couldn't detect metal. Maybe some water got into it.

I'm looking for something that is handheld so about 15" long.

I would be diving right off the shore/beach in relatively shallow, but it would be good to have the ability to go much deeper in case I ever decide to boat dive.

Can anybody recommend anything?

A Whites Surfmaster if you can find one, - brilliant, over 300 rings underwater

 

[Paul Revere’s Ghost]

A Whites Surfmaster if you can find one, - brilliant, over 300 rings underwater

I was devastated to find a hairline crack in mines control box last year. 🥲 But since I sold all 4 of my scuba tanks and calypso chrome regulator, I won’t be diving again. What a machine it was. 🙏. I guess it’s still good for hunting knee deep water.

 

[CapnGeorge]

My Nokta PulseDive Underwater Metal Detector failed on me after going into the water (and not even using it). When I came back on land, although I could turn it on, I couldn't detect metal. Maybe some water got into it.

I'm looking for something that is handheld so about 15" long.

I would be diving right off the shore/beach in relatively shallow, but it would be good to have the ability to go much deeper in case I ever decide to boat dive.

Can anybody recommend anything?

A Whites Surfmaster, if you can find one, brilliant and simple to operate (over 300 rings!)

 

[k0bgalan]

Underwater-rated detectors are that numerous, and they're all good. But on land... When asked which is better this or that, my answer is always the same: The one you have!

 

[Sand Swinger]

I was devastated to find a hairline crack in mines control box last year. 🥲 But since I sold all 4 of my scuba tanks and calypso chrome regulator, I won’t be diving again. What a machine it was. 🙏. I guess it’s still good for hunting knee deep water.

PRG, I guess if you’re no longer diving, than you could still use your detector in shallow/knee deep water. I wondered if there might be a way to repair/seal the hairline crack, so I asked AI to check, and it replied with instructions for using the plastic-welding method to re-seal. It looks like there's a chance if you use an exact plastic-welding method, you might be able to maintain the boxes 100-foot depth rating. Don’t know if I would trust that, but I probably would try to reseal just for additional insurance and peace of mind. I’d also plan on limiting box submersion to shallow water, knee-neck deep, which for me is the deepest I’d go anyway.

If you, or anyone else with the same issue wants to attempt resealing the crack, here’s AI’s response and details:

Knowing that this is a White's Electronics Surfmaster PI series housing completely changes the strategy. White’s Surfmaster control boxes are molded from high-impact ABS plastic. ABS is highly receptive to solvent welding, which is excellent news. However, because White’s Electronics closed down in 2020 (with Garrett purchasing their assets but not reproducing legacy waterproof housings), a pristine replacement shell is almost impossible to find.

Because saltwater intrusion will instantly corrode the Pulse Induction (PI) motherboard and battery contacts, you must proceed with an exact plastic-welding method to maintain that 100-foot rating.

The Repair Method: ABS Solvent Fusion

Do not use superglue, silicone, or standard epoxy. They do not bond to ABS at a molecular level and will pop out under the flex of dive pressures. Instead, use a chemical solvent to weld the plastic back into a single piece.

What You Need:

• Oatey ABS Black Cement (found at hardware stores) OR Plastruct Plastic Weld (solvent cement).
• A tiny drill bit (1/16 inch or smaller).
• A utility knife or Dremel with a fine engraving bit.
• Painter's tape.

Step-by-Step Execution:

1. Gut the Box completely: Remove the AA battery holder, the control knobs, and desolder/unscrew the main circuit board. Never perform a thermal or chemical repair with electronics inside; the fumes and heat can warp components or destroy seals.
2. Stop-Drill the Crack: Use your tiny drill bit to drill a clean hole exactly at both dead-ends of the hairline crack. This prevents the pressure from forcing the crack to travel further down the ABS shell later.
3. Create a V-Groove: Use your knife or dremel to carefully scrape a "V" shaped channel along the crack line on the outside of the box. Go about halfway through the thickness of the plastic. This creates surface area for the weld.
4. Apply the Solvent/Cement:
   1. If using ABS cement: Pack the V-groove smoothly using a toothpick. It will physically melt the surrounding walls and fuse them together as it cures.
   2. If using Plastruct/Liquid Solvent: Clamp the crack tight, apply the liquid to the crack, and let capillary action draw it in. It melts the two sides into one piece within seconds.
5. Reinforce the Inside: If there is clearance around the circuit board, apply a thin layer of ABS cement or a structural marine epoxy over the inside wall of the crack for secondary reinforcement.
6. Cure for 48 Hours: Let the solvents completely evaporate so the ABS regains its full structural density.

The Non-Negotiable Step: The Pressure Test
Before putting your AA battery pack and circuit board back into the housing, you must verify the seal.

1. Reassemble the empty box with its lid and Main Control Box Lid O-Ring. Ensure the O-ring is clean and lightly coated with silicone grease.
2. Drop a few weighted fishing sinkers and a dry, crumpled paper towel inside the empty box.
3. Seal it tightly.
4. Submerge the box in water. If you can safely sink it in a deep pool, dive tank, or a weighted bucket for a few hours, do so.
5. Pull it out, dry the exterior completely, open it, and check the paper towel. If the paper towel has even a microscopic hint of moisture, the repair cannot handle the pressure and will destroy your detector on your next surf hunt.

 

[Paul Revere’s Ghost]

Wow. I’m familiar with plastic welding from back in the auto body days but have only done it with commercial fish totes. I think I’ll retire that machine with my old “Treasure Ray” dive machine. But I must say thank you for all the research it’s much appreciated. I finally relocated my old partners phone number. He’s moved our west searching for conquistador treasure and has a few of these machines. One a boulder crushed the coil and shaft so maybe he will make use of it. Thank you and Al for great instructions they make perfect sense. I never thought I’d say this, but now that I’ve learned the intricacies of tuning my Xterra Elite, with the 12” coil I might admit it has the depth capabilities of a pulse machine. I just ordered a 10” coil last night. 3&4 miles a day is wearing me out digging over a foot so often. 15 months with this machine and I have 54 rings and 3 gold pendants. I’m sold on the new technology. Again. Thank you. 🙏 🏖️

 

[Sand Swinger]

Wow. I’m familiar with plastic welding from back in the auto body days but have only done it with commercial fish totes. I think I’ll retire that machine with my old “Treasure Ray” dive machine. But I must say thank you for all the research it’s much appreciated. I finally relocated my old partners phone number. He’s moved our west searching for conquistador treasure and has a few of these machines. One a boulder crushed the coil and shaft so maybe he will make use of it. Thank you and Al for great instructions they make perfect sense. I never thought I’d say this, but now that I’ve learned the intricacies of tuning my Xterra Elite, with the 12” coil I might admit it has the depth capabilities of a pulse machine. I just ordered a 10” coil last night. 3&4 miles a day is wearing me out digging over a foot so often. 15 months with this machine and I have 54 rings and 3 gold pendants. I’m sold on the new technology. Again. Thank you. 🙏 🏖️

I bought an X-Terra Elite last year as a backup for my Sovereign Elite. After I got the X-Terra, I was able to pick up a Dual Field PI that OBN previously owned & modded. So, I only have about 1 hour on the X-Terra, as I always grab my Sov & Dual Field for the beach.

I do plan to use the X-Terra for land hunting, as the Target ID will come in handy to minimize the number of holes I dig in someones lawn, lol. But I think I do need to give the X-Terra a try on the beach, seems you've been doing very well with yours.