More than likely to many not mentioned overwhelming potential problems. I'll bet it sells soon. Maybe I should focus on the car I drove when I met my future bride. A $400. 1971 AMC Gremlin I picked up in Iowa and drove to Colorado and drove many times back and forth to work from Buena Vista to Frisco, Colorado in high rocky mountain winter storms. Then in June of 1986, I drove it to Sacramento for a job. Me and my wife to be had tons of good times in that Gremlin, going to Lake Tahoe to gamble and camping from Lasen national park to the Pacific coast, and places in the Sierra mountains. It still ran like a champ when I sold it.
I worked summers in my neighbors body shop in 1974. We pieced together a crashed 1967 corvette. We pieced together the front body parts with the existing pieces and patches of fiberglass from other crashed Vets in the bone yard. It was pretty easy dealing with fiberglass. Much easier than sheet metal.
We never did that kind of work to them. My buddy was an engineer and always told me once the fiberglass was crushed, the structural integrity of the car was lost. I did fiberglass work on them on my own, it is much easier than metal work.
I've seen old leaded body repairs in old pre 60s cars in those oldtime boneyards. For many years I've found visiting old junk yards to be pure stimulating pleasure. As a kid we'd search for change in the seats and floor boards in the old junkyards that weren't being watched over by a mean junkyard dog.
Yup, everything the car came with from the factory needs to still be there. Engine and drivetrain must be original. When we did the Corvettes years ago, all the parts needed to be from the same factory lots used on each year for each factory the car came from. Paint needed to be exact color and type used at the factory (not just the body, all parts too). But we were going for top dollar.
This is possible. I had a guy years ago that wanted his 4 banger 80's Mustang to look like a Mustang GT. When I was done a year after I got it, it resembled a GT on the outside. Engine and drivetrain were nowhere near a GT. That was a waste of time and money on his part. But you do what you get paid to do.
But with the pan and sheet metal rust you’re looking at a dip..there is a certain amount of $$ required to save these cars subject to this kind of rust. The budget has to be there.
It’s cool as all hell but I’ve got a station wagon that’s in the same boat..lots of interior and chrome..better be a numbers correct big block/4-speed or it’s not an investment...it’s a cool car and we all love those. Also unless they are relocated to a drier climate..the rust will destroy the “”frame””. Better be prepared for long term storage. I’ve seen plenty of “six pack” manifolds laying around old school body shops.
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Yea but the budget required to drill spot welds and piece together the unibody requires a budget that’s usually based on it actually being a big block 4-speed car. Not a car with a big block and 4-speed. The original question was asking about buying and holding on to as an investment. It better be a big block 4-speed. That’s my only point.Rust repair? Nope! Replace the parts!
Every part you need.
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