16" TROMMEL BUILD INSPIRED BY AZVIPER

Doitlaynstyle

Hero Member
Feb 21, 2013
683
352
Idaho
Detector(s) used
Rock Nose and sniffer belly
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
So I have started gathering supplies to begin my trommel build. I'll post a link to AZ's thread which is my inspiration for this build but I'm also planning a different style. I'll be using easily obtainable parts so that rebuilding in the event of failure is possible without fabricating new parts. I'm thinking that at eight foot long I'm going to just turn this thing into a small trailer or build it on a small trailer so that I can also haul the extra gear and make the weekend trips a little more do-able. I will be using one of the two roto-tillers for the gear reduction and I am contemplating using a tubed rubber tire as a drive wheel instead of running a full gear ring on the beast. I will probably still use roller blade wheels for the cylinder rotation but I am probably going to use four on bottom and four on top to lock the cylinder into place so the tire doesn't knock the cylinder up off the bearing wheels.

I'm also hoping that I can get my hands on a claim soon and I'll also be using my father's back-hoe to stockpile dirt, move tailing piles, and create a reclamation pond. Anyway this is the start of a long slow winter because money is tight. We just bought a new house and I'm scrimping more than usual. I'm hoping to build a new 12" sluice box but I might just have to extend my current 10" box. Like AZ I'm hoping to use gold hog mating but that's only if I can afford it. Most likely I'll run my rifles and miners moss first followed by another 3' of box with the gold hog mat I currently have. So enough of this for now. I'll add photos here and link AZ's thread.

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/364420-12-inch-trommel-build.html
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Think of the plasma as a router. Make one row of holes in a strip of metal, a template, then clamp and plaz.

Make the template holes oversized by the diameter of the nozzle.

If you want, make the plazed holes slightly undersized then you can quickly hit them with a step drill.

He has 2400 holes to cut. He would spend more time setting up the jig per hole than it would take to drill 5 holes. This method would be great to make the backflow ring or 1/3 rings for the inside that he has planned but not to cut 2400 holes to the curved outside cylinder. :icon_thumleft:

Heating the steel per hole using the plasma hardens the steel so cutting the holes undersize followed by the Unibit will wear the Unibit out very quickly.
 

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HAHAHAHA matting-are great as that leaves soooo much gold for the next guy out in the field. For in home recovery it has uses but in the field not only no but LL no. Different strokes for different folks but for infield use a bloody joke.John PS TRIED AND REJECTED ON NUMEROUS TYPES OF OPS PERSONALLY AS NEVER EVER IN 20+ YEARS HERE HAVE I COMMENTED ON ANYTHING EVER WITHOUT USEING OR TRYING TO GET IT TO WORK. Micro recovery yes-field no way in LL. I also utilize a EXPERT testers opinions named Randy Seden who has bougt more goldfarbs than any man I've ever met running my biz or on any forum in 58+ years a mining in it's many forms.He is a RELENTLESS tester and has spent more time,effort and money on new ideas than anyone. Goldfarbs ALWAYS work great for the sellers it's just the BUYERS who must beware....:tongue3:
 

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HAHAHAHA matting-are great as that leaves soooo much gold for the next guy out in the field. For in home recovery it has uses but in the field not only no but LL no. Different strokes for different folks but for infield use a bloody joke.John

I ran my box with nothing but UR & Razorback GH mat and below the box I bolted on my Letrap to test for lost gold. We did a 100 bucket run nonstop and processed the cons from each accordingly. The GH mat captured 3.4 grams and there were 4 flakes of gold probably not even weighing .1 grams in the LeTrap. The only reason I did this was because I wanted to know how the GH mat performed on a full tilt run. The major problem for me is that I can usually go through 100 buckets in an hour with my riffles but the Razorback GH mat requires a lot slower flow and feed. So it took 3 hrs to process.

I have yet to record any loss with the LeTrap but I cant use it or the GH mat to process the amount of water I need to go through large volumes of material quickly and that is why I use the riffles I designed and built. Then I use the GH matting to process my cons from my riffles. The major difference between the two was the amount of cons. Washing out the GH mat left me with a 1/4 pan of cons to process and the LeTrap had a full pan of cons to process. My experience leaves me completely confident in the GH matting. I will be using their big matting the "scrubber" beginning with and ending with "bedrock" if I can afford it because it is capable of processing the volumes of water and material I plan on running.

I understand your point of view but until you have proven it wrong you really shouldn't knock it.
 

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I sent off an email to Summit Mining & Equipment Inc.last week. I was wanting a price on there 14" trommel. I got no anwser. Also I have looked at these during the gold shows, wasn't impressed at all.
 

I sent off an email to Summit Mining & Equipment Inc.last week. I was wanting a price on there 14" trommel. I got no anwser. Also I have looked at these during the gold shows, wasn't impressed at all.

I'm building my own because all of the ones I have looked at for my level of mining were way too expensive and didn't look like they could deflect a rock let alone tumble millions. When I'm done building mine I'm thinking that I'm going to build and sell a couple. As for now I'm keeping a tally of what I'm into it for material/parts so I can determine a viable price range. Which poses a question.... how much is too much and how much would the small time miner be comfortable paying?
 

Bought the trailer today. Got it for $288 with tax it came to $305 4' x 8' Utility Trailer - 1720 Lb. Capacity

Should have read on the website that the damn thing weighs a total of 260 lbs HOLY CRAP that was tough to load into the back of my Blazer LOL
 

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Everyone has their own ideas for building equipment. One feature I really like on the unit my partner and I use is the water distribution manifold is built into
the units frame/support. That way there is only one hose to connect from the pump to the trommel. The other hoses are valved off the manifold going to each section requiring water . The mfg of our unit failed to put a cleanout in the bottom of the manifold but that was an easy fix. Another thing that was an issue were the fittings used. The passages were too small and restricting water flow and volume. Not as easy to fix but it's much better now. Silly to have a pump output fitting of 1 1/2 inches and restrict it down to 1 inch with inadequate fittings. Old race car plumbing experience coming out. :laughing7:
 

Everyone has their own ideas for building equipment. One feature I really like on the unit my partner and I use is the water distribution manifold is built into
the units frame/support. That way there is only one hose to connect from the pump to the trommel. The other hoses are valved off the manifold going to each section requiring water . The mfg of our unit failed to put a cleanout in the bottom of the manifold but that was an easy fix. Another thing that was an issue were the fittings used. The passages were too small and restricting water flow and volume. Not as easy to fix but it's much better now. Silly to have a pump output fitting of 1 1/2 inches and restrict it down to 1 inch with inadequate fittings. Old race car plumbing experience coming out. :laughing7:

That sounds really cool and is pretty smart to have a header. Necking down is never a good idea though until you have the destination in mind. Sounds like you figured it out though and are making it work. I hadn't seen the summit ones before they look pretty well built. Shorter than what I'm building though and I'm wanting the length for busting up clay. The clay in the area I'm working had to be mashed up by hand right now because it won't even erode. I put a large ball on the grizzly and ran all day with the water spraying right on it and it stayed the same size all day. So the longer trommel will get the rocks to do all the hard work for me. I am really excited but it's still a long way out....
 

I ran my box with nothing but UR & Razorback GH mat and below the box I bolted on my Letrap to test for lost gold. We did a 100 bucket run nonstop and processed the cons from each accordingly. The GH mat captured 3.4 grams and there were 4 flakes of gold probably not even weighing .1 grams in the LeTrap. The only reason I did this was because I wanted to know how the GH mat performed on a full tilt run. The major problem for me is that I can usually go through 100 buckets in an hour with my riffles but the Razorback GH mat requires a lot slower flow and feed. So it took 3 hrs to process.

I have yet to record any loss with the LeTrap but I cant use it or the GH mat to process the amount of water I need to go through large volumes of material quickly and that is why I use the riffles I designed and built. Then I use the GH matting to process my cons from my riffles. The major difference between the two was the amount of cons. Washing out the GH mat left me with a 1/4 pan of cons to process and the LeTrap had a full pan of cons to process. My experience leaves me completely confident in the GH matting. I will be using their big matting the "scrubber" beginning with and ending with "bedrock" if I can afford it because it is capable of processing the volumes of water and material I plan on running.

HAHAHAHA matting-are great as that leaves soooo much gold for the next guy out in the field. For in home recovery it has uses but in the field not only no but LL no. Different strokes for different folks but for infield use a bloody joke. John

I understand your point of view but until you have proven it wrong you really shouldn't knock it.

Well that about sums it up John....
 

Bought the trailer today. Got it for $288 with tax it came to $305 4' x 8' Utility Trailer - 1720 Lb. Capacity

Should have read on the website that the damn thing weighs a total of 260 lbs HOLY CRAP that was tough to load into the back of my Blazer LOL

LOL... I got a trailer its just a little big to take back into the back country, but it would haul all my gear and then some...

t1.jpg T2.jpg T3.jpg
 

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LOL... I got a trailer its just a little big to take back into the back country, but it would haul all my gear and then some...

<img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=891298"/> <img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=891299"/> <img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=891300"/>

I am looking for a used trailer that will haul 200 gal of water to the back country without constant breakdown/repair. Hard to find so far.
 

How about The Trommelizer or Gold trommelizer.
 

I am looking for a used trailer that will haul 200 gal of water to the back country without constant breakdown/repair. Hard to find so far.

Man that's 1800 lbs and I'm thinking that a good tandem axle flatbed would do fine. This little trailer is purpose built....
 

This is why I am building my own header so I maintain an 1-1/4" inside pipe size of which requires the use 1-1/2" ball valves and pipe. <img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=891273"/>

Hey Viper,
I've been dealing with plumbing for pools for some time and have discovered a thing about these valves. Not that it's a big deal, but I've found those valve handles to be fragile. It seems that if they break you'd have to replace the whole valve. Plus a big bandage to cover that gash that comes when it breaks. I've come across other valves that have a blue handle and they can pop on and off. Cheaper to replace these handles than replacing the valves. Plus you don't have to take apart the assembly. Now those other handles take years to get brittle (normally due to exposure to the sun) and by then you may not care, but using those blue handled ones might prevent you from hurting your hand pretty bad.
Aside from that. Impressive drilling. I'd like to check this beast out. Golden sent me an invite to go down to your neck of the woods. I'm hoping to help him get some dirt. Hopefully I can take some to. Lol. I think I just might try to build a trommel as well. Just smaller version. Just don't know where to start. Lol. I guess saving a couple bucks is a good beginning.
 

Hey Viper,
I've been dealing with plumbing for pools for some time and have discovered a thing about these valves. Not that it's a big deal, but I've found those valve handles to be fragile. It seems that if they break you'd have to replace the whole valve. Plus a big bandage to cover that gash that comes when it breaks. I've come across other valves that have a blue handle and they can pop on and off. Cheaper to replace these handles than replacing the valves. Plus you don't have to take apart the assembly. Now those other handles take years to get brittle (normally due to exposure to the sun) and by then you may not care, but using those blue handled ones might prevent you from hurting your hand pretty bad.
Aside from that. Impressive drilling. I'd like to check this beast out. Golden sent me an invite to go down to your neck of the woods. I'm hoping to help him get some dirt. Hopefully I can take some to. Lol. I think I just might try to build a trommel as well. Just smaller version. Just don't know where to start. Lol. I guess saving a couple bucks is a good beginning.

I hear you on the valves. I had looked at many valves from HD, Lowes, Ferguson, etc. My concerns were the size of the passage through the valve, weight, and the ease of turning the handle. My buddy at Ferguson Supply allowed me to pick through his supply until I found values that turned easier than all the others. What I found was not all 1-1/2" values had the same size passage through the valve. The valves I ended up buying were made by EverBilt and have a passage of 1.375". I have already restricted the flow from the pump from 2" to 1-1/2" at the pump and I wanted to keep the ID consistent all the way to the distribution manifold. This will build pressure but raise the AMPs on the pump.

I am looking for a used trailer that will haul 200 gal of water to the back country without constant breakdown/repair. Hard to find so far.

We have a guy in Tucson selling these new trailers for $550.00. This is a 4'x8' trailer. Very well made, all welding together. As you can see he makes all sizes of trailers.

4x8 trailer.jpg
 

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Thanks. I will check on those when I get back to AZ. Leaving from Seattle area in a few minutes for Morristown.
 

Thanks. I will check on those when I get back to AZ. Leaving from Seattle area in a few minutes for Morristown.

You may want to check Mr Trailer in Phoenix as he sales the Carson line of trailers that I posted a photo of...
 

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