Can someone give me some information on an axe head

Poorman

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Hello and thank you. I am very new to metal detecting and forums, but after my back surgery I figured it would pass tjhe time and I really enjoy it. I haven't dug a bunch of treasure but have found some coins tokens TOY guns ECT. But I found a very nice (to me) axe head but cannot find any markings thanks for any help. 20191106_070802.webp20191106_070741.webp20191106_070733.webp20191106_070802.webp20191106_070741.webp20191106_070733.webp
 

1c1c18f118e81ea35de6764da33866f1.webp daaf36d1d00d238fbc14518d2581a3b7.webp 6690903930cae99c9335e36a89c30f30.webp
 

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Welcome to Tnet from Mississippi
 

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Thank you rook its all new to me never thought a grown man vould get so excited about a "beep"
 

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That's a pretty nice ax head. I found one a few years ago at an early 20th C site. I threw it in a fire to cook off the rust, then went to Home Depot, bought a new handle for it and put an edge on it. It is the nicest ax I've ever had in my hands. Very well balanced.
 

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That's a pretty nice ax head. I found one a few years ago at an early 20th C site. I threw it in a fire to cook off the rust, then went to Home Depot, bought a new handle for it and put an edge on it. It is the nicest ax I've ever had in my hands. Very well balanced.

That's a good idea about throwing the axe into a fire. I got a few that need cleaning up that came from a civil war era house site.
 

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That's a good idea about throwing the axe into a fire. I got a few that need cleaning up that came from a civil war era house site.

Careful not to go overboard, it's possible to "draw the temper" from a piece that has been heat treated.

Firearms that have been through a house often have "gone soft", the temper being drawn out.

Plenty of heat, followed by a slow cooling.

Consider the electrolysis method when in doubt.

https://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

https://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/how-to-remove-rust-with-electrolysis/

Hatchet.webp
 

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I have one just like that, but twice the size.
Always wanted to put a handle on it, but don't want to work that hard.... Chainsaw is much easyer...
Great find!!

and​ Welcome to TreasureNet
 

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I will have to work on cleaning it up thank you guys for your help this is an interesting community glad to be a part of it now
 

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I will have to work on cleaning it up thank you guys for your help this is an interesting community glad to be a part of it now

The illustration in the earlier post shows a broad axe sharpened on both sides.
That goes against the original design/use.
The men working the split timber....Shows the one for sure scoring the log from the edge towards the center.
An axe sharpened on both sides suits such a task.
However , to knock off outer slabs between the scored areas to make a square timber...A single edged axe comes in. Thus the broadaxe with a flat side , and the other side with a generous bevel comes into play. That means , two differently designed axes for particular uses were /should be used.

Your pic shows a standard (early design) single edge with a big bevel.

IF the other side of your axe from the one pictured is simply flat...You have the broadaxe to make squared (or how ever many flat sides are desired on a timber) timbers with.

If you have a single beveled broadaxe , a curved handle is preferred. To avoid busting your knuckles on the timber as you knock off the slabs between the scores hewed to the depth of what is to become your desired timbers edge. (Watch your feet!)

Congrats on your axe!
A tool used and valued by it's previous owner(s). Craftsmanship in it's manufacture ,and use.
 

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