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Chainsaw question: I'm missing something...?

Limitool

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I have a Stihl chainsaw w/18" bar. Fairly new and not used much. I've had a few hundred railroad ties stacked up for lining the driveway since last year. Well started to move them and had angles to cut at curves. After 2 cuts it was running hot and puked the chain. I changed out chain and made 3 cuts and again same thing. I took bar & chain off and cleaned up everything to make sure bar oil was in the oiler. I fired it up and yep.... oil pouring on out. Put a 3rd new chain on and cut 9 ties and same thing happened AGAIN...!

So is something wrong with the chainsaw or maybe it doesn't like cutting the railroad ties possibly. Why I wouldn't know but is it possible maybe? I am NOT hitting any metal nor seen any sparks at all. I stay a long ways from the metal end plates.

Any ideas anybody.... :dontknow:
 
Well thanks bowwinkles: I've cut down hundreds of oak trees with no problem. I just never thought a railroad tie would be any different. This isn't a big chainsaw at all but I thought it would handle the job easily.... but I'm missing something.
 
Good tips from bowwinkles.
I also think the creosote can make for difficult cutting. I know treated lumber puts more of a strain on my circular saw.
 
puked the chain? Chain popping off the bar? I found it helps to tighten the chain with the bar nuts loose. Once chain is tight, tighten the bar nuts last.
Chain not popping off bar. Chain just GOES DULL quickly. And I tighten exactly the way you mentioned about bar nuts. I always have.... last. Went through 2 brand new chains very quickly.
 
Chain not popping off bar. Chain just GOES DULL quickly. And I tighten exactly the way you mentioned about bar nuts. I always have.... last. Went through 2 brand new chains very quickly.
Ties have been buried, and from being coated with creosote it's a recipe for fine sand/dirt mixed in.

I'd power wash the cutting area before cutting.
 
Ties have been buried, and from being coated with creosote it's a recipe for fine sand/dirt mixed in.

I'd power wash the cutting area before cutting.
Well that ain't happening.... I have another saw that will cut them like butter but it's electric. I'll have to bust out the 100' 10 gauge homemade extention cord if I go that route... Nothing is ever easy...!

Or I'll have to wheel them out. Lay them up. Mark angle needed. Wheel back to shop. Cut and repeat. But I bet your right pepper....!!!! But these ties are NOT LIGHT at all. Balloon tires on 2-wheel cart helps BUT not going uphill and certainly NOT downhill either.

Thanks all....
 
Just a friendly word of warning…..not sure their age, but if treated with creosote make sure you have long pants, long sleeve shirt a gloves. That stuff (when put into sawdust) will hit you like a good sunburn.
Thus far I've been alright. Well I think I am (stay tuned?). Think I'm moving to Plan B with the electric hand held Wellsaw. I still have a couple hundred feet of them to lay out yet. But most of that is mostly a straight line. Probably 15-20 to cut at angles yet though. Thanks for the advise.
 
Railroad ties are not only exceptionally large, but they often contain grit, rocks, and other materials embedded inside the tie for added durability. This makes them far more difficult to cut than an equivalent sized piece of wood.

Carbide tipped chainsaw chain or a circular saw I use a beam saw with a diamond blade.
 
I have a Stihl chainsaw w/18" bar. Fairly new and not used much. I've had a few hundred railroad ties stacked up for lining the driveway since last year. Well started to move them and had angles to cut at curves. After 2 cuts it was running hot and puked the chain. I changed out chain and made 3 cuts and again same thing. I took bar & chain off and cleaned up everything to make sure bar oil was in the oiler. I fired it up and yep.... oil pouring on out. Put a 3rd new chain on and cut 9 ties and same thing happened AGAIN...!

So is something wrong with the chainsaw or maybe it doesn't like cutting the railroad ties possibly. Why I wouldn't know but is it possible maybe? I am NOT hitting any metal nor seen any sparks at all. I stay a long ways from the metal end plates.

Any ideas anybody.... :dontknow:
Your also overheating the piston , chainsaws are made to run flat out....
 
Railroad ties are not only exceptionally large, but they often contain grit, rocks, and other materials embedded inside the tie for added durability. This makes them far more difficult to cut than an equivalent sized piece of wood.

Carbide tipped chainsaw chain or a circular saw I use a beam saw with a diamond blade.
Slow learner here.... but I've dummied up now O.V. Railroad ties aren't the same as a live oak tree..!
 
Your also overheating the piston , chainsaws are made to run flat out....
Well today is my "learning day". I'll go sit in the corner with my hat on. I deserve it.

Thanks all with the help and comments... Brad
 
Brad, I'd think that the creosote replies are spot on.
Still doing the toy boxes?
I hope you have been doing great!
I believe so also...

"Still doing the toy boxes?" Yes I have now going on 8 years. Have 2 threads in General Discussion.

1 for 2024 Christmas donations.... and another for Helping storm victims east / south of me. Thank you for asking.... Brad
 
Suggestion: Contact the dealer you bought it from and see what they have to say.
 
Is it a 3/8th pitch or .325. does it have a set screw for the oiler some of the new epa Stihl saws you cant adjust the oiler. It was always standard one tank of fuel ,one tank of oil Not with the new ones.

I will say when I was building bridges for the rail road we cut a ton of creosote ties and supports. We had a large wheel of chain to replace after a few sharpenings. Creosote made the blades and bar run very hot. Old ties should not be a problem though. Good practice always flip your bar over when replacing a chain for even bar wear. I love chain saws !
 

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