CZ 20 Coming-a few QUESTIONS please

[GTzer]

CONDENSED- updated Version
Fisher CZ 20 on the way. Seller gave me an option to return it. Seller only used it in water 1 time- no leaks. He was the 2nd owner.
My criteria for final sale is-must arrive intact, be completely functional and watertight (to wade depth of 5') I want to prep it and take it to the saltwater.
I have never used a Fisher or any water MD. SO I am only familiar with the info I have read on the net & the 2 MD sites I where I am a member.

Aware from reading- potential leak sites-battery door (cracks from over tightening),gaskets,silicon grease use, Face plate-PP button & LED.

QUESTIONS please.

I could accept & deal with a possible leak in the battery compartment. But I need for it to last through the test.
1) Will I be able to see possible cracks-with a magnifier & bright light? Is there any can I temporarily seal those so I can test the unit?

Silicon the gasket-read it many times. I will apply it a described in many of the threads Ive read here. (Light coat and make sure its seated properly.)
2) BUT why does Manual state not to use silicon grease?

Read of sealing the PinPoint button (and LEDs) and then NOT using the PP (use detune to PP).I will try it once to make sure it works then I will NOT use it again. Fine with me-BUT the manual indicated using the PP for tuning or GB.
3) SO can you Ground Balance/ Tune without using the PP with the Auto tune feature?
4) What material should I use to seal the PP & LEDs? I would like to use a temporary material to test the unit. Then a permanent material if it passes.

Upgrades-I cant afford that now and I would only do that if necessary. If it passes my criteria its a done deal. SO I read many different things about the upgrade to a 21. They cant fix a CZ 20 so you must upgrade.
5) So do you wait for total failure for this repair/upgrade or is there a way to determine that it will be necessary?

Abbreviated answers are fine. Ill keep reading AND I will call the company to ask about the upgrade. Still I value the info I read here and ANY input .
Thank you,
GTzer

 

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[mumszie]

I have a CZ-20 and I love it. I did have the 10 in coil put on it and since I am the original owner mine has a lifetime warranty on it. I don't hunt as much as I used to and I know most of the guys love others machines but I love mine. Read the "Golden Olde" site. That guy wrote some of the best info on hunting and he used a CZ-20. Good luck.

 

[GTzer]

Thanks for the reply. I'll check that out.

 

[GTzer]

I have 5 Questions that I could really use help with.

Especially 1& 4 so I can test this unit.

 

[Sleepy]

I have a CZ21. I know I can order a new battery door pretty easily and I change my gasket once a year whether it looks bad or not. I've never used silicone grease and I haven't had any leaks so far. I know there's a difference in the pp Button in the 20 and 21 but I use my pp button to ground balance. I primarily lake hunt but love my machine. I hunt in auto tune then when I get a hit I flip to the lowest disc setting just to see what tone I get. If you do keep it, one hint. Unless your digging chunks of bad stuff and cans constantly where you're hunting, dig those bell tones. The majority of the time when I get a bell tone it's something good. I dug a $500 tungsten/diamond ring the other day that gave a bell tone. I use high sensitivity so I get a bell tone on quarters about 80% of the time also. Good luck. Hope it works out for you.

 

[GTzer]

Thanks Sleepy.
Hours of reading indicated the PP as a weak spot (for leaks) on many CZ 20s but not on the CZ 21. So I'll just work around that. I'll keep your advice for after the test.
The only tones I try to ignore on the sand are iron & cans. I dig a lot of those signals but I dig everything else. I'll have to find that bell tone thread again-it was not about a target giving that sound but more about a possible defect. I like bell tones on targets.

 

[spimly]

Thanks Sleepy.
Hours of reading indicated the PP as a weak spot (for leaks) on many CZ 20s but not on the CZ 21. So I'll just work around that. I'll keep your advice for after the test.
The only tones I try to ignore on the sand are iron & cans. I dig a lot of those signals but I dig everything else. I'll have to find that bell tone thread again-it was not about a target giving that sound but more about a possible defect. I like bell tones on targets.

I have used my CZ20 since I bought it new in the 90's. I use it for both land and water and I don't baby it. I have never had a leak, never replaced the gasket and never used anything on the gasket. Some people have had problems with the pinpoint switch (I've read) but I never use it, preferring the much simpler and as accurate X-Y coil motion to determine the target's location.

These detectors are built like a tank so it is doubtful that you will have any problems. The battery compartment is fully sealed from the electronics so even if the battery door gasket leaked only your batteries would suffer. The battery door is some form of very hard thick plastic which would be very hard to break. Remember this thing is designed to take the pressure of 250 feet of diving (125 pounds per square inch) - this isn't some wader like the Garrett AT and Minelab CTX.

If you are really concerned (and it sounds like you are), test it in fresh water first so that if anything leaked it would be recoverable by simply drying things off. Stick it in 5+ feet of water and, if you see any bubbles coming up, you have your answer.

 

[Prairie Prowler]

GTzer..Hi Ive been using my CZ 20 for about 15-16 yrs now..(freshwater) to answer your questions 1) the only way to see if the face plate is cracked /split from over tightening is to remove the thin cover sleeve thats on the clear face plate Ive never seen a cracked face plate .(most of the CZ20 s had a water detection card inside that changes color if wet/damp).2) silicone grease degenerates the rubber seal @ batt. compartment.. 3) Manual states GB in auto tune mode..4) I wouldnt seal them.. if they fail a outer layer is only a temp. fix anyway..5)Upgrade after U use the unit for awhile & see if a 8 in. coil or 10 in. is good for your type of hunting..My unit never leaked but the PPoint switch went bad I search in Auto T.or Disc. & this works fine This is my experience & others may agree/disagree ..Good luck.

 

[lookindown]

I have a CZ21. I know I can order a new battery door pretty easily and I change my gasket once a year whether it looks bad or not. I've never used silicone grease and I haven't had any leaks so far. I know there's a difference in the pp Button in the 20 and 21 but I use my pp button to ground balance. I primarily lake hunt but love my machine. I hunt in auto tune then when I get a hit I flip to the lowest disc setting just to see what tone I get. If you do keep it, one hint. Unless your digging chunks of bad stuff and cans constantly where you're hunting, dig those bell tones. The majority of the time when I get a bell tone it's something good. I dug a $500 tungsten/diamond ring the other day that gave a bell tone. I use high sensitivity so I get a bell tone on quarters about 80% of the time also. Good luck. Hope it works out for you.

I don't get a bell tone on a quarter no matter how high my sens is...I have the 101/2 inch coil...do quarters bell tone with an 8 inch coil? The only time I get a bell tone is on cans, sunglasses, watches, etc.

 

[Sleepy]

I owned a CZ21 with a 10 inch coil and after a 4th back surgery went to one with a 8 inch coil. I got a bell tone on both. But I only have hunted in fresh water and the more shallow the target is the more inclined mine seems to give a bell tone. I actually got a bell tone on a zincoln the other day but I looked down and actually saw it slightly uncovered on the bottom. If coins are deeper it doesn't seem to occur as much. I hunt a local swimming hole so much I don't believe they have time to sink very deep before I find them.

 

[GTzer]

Thanks all-very reassuring. Yes it's built like a tank. It arrived intact and all of the functions seem to work. All of my worries come from the multitude of threads I read here, another site I belong to and various other MD -discussions. Read for hours & hours. Plenty of people had NO problems and plenty of people had leak problems.
I got burnt on the xl pro I bought because I forgot the manual. It was pristine -but it still cost $150 to make it function properly.
I'll never use it for diving. Chest deep will only put it 1-2' down.With close scrutiny it looks intact even with bright lights and magnification. I already paid but was given an option I will take full advantage of.
I will clean it and I will seal the PP,LEDs and side of the face plate. Probably spray the battery door with that waterproof material. Let it dry and test it for a few hours in the salt. If I over did it--well after reading what I have-I would have done that anyway. If it leaks then I'll take the option to return it. If I just get some moisture in the battery compartment-I'll keep it and buy another compartment. I really want it to work.
Sorry to be chicken little. Money is tight and the one thing I can't afford is to waste $ on a MD that doesn't work. If it fails the 2nd time out-that's on me.
Thanks for hearing my rambles and taking the time to answer. Great site-I really appreciate that.
Hopefully everything will work out and I'll get to share some adventures here myself.
GTzer