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Doing dime boxes

mlayers

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Just a quick question. When you do dime rolls do you just edge search or do you check all the dates. I have a hard time reading the dates so I noramlly just do the edge seach. Do you think I am missing something by doing this.......Matt
 
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I just edge check. Silver dimes stand out almost as wells as silver halves for the most part. I wouldn't do them if I had to date check.
 
The only ones I date check are the fat clad proofs, and sometimes canadians. So, I date check maybe 10 coins per $100.
 
The coin machine at my bank rejects silver. I've only missed 2 in edge checking that I got back in the reject tray.

Some times they are really dirty and look like clad, but if you check every questionable coin you won't miss many.

If I don't clearly see 2 layers I check.

I've caught about a few that I would have missed if I was only looking for the bright silver shine.

For the most part you will notice the silver with no trouble, but some will get by you if you don't check them.
 
Ive always edge check, and only check dates if there is a "silver" (75% canadian, 25% silver, lmao) but i did accidentally find a proof by opening a roll looking for a silver one. i got a proof 1978. so now i check a lot of the REALLY shiny thick square edges.
 
can you post a pic of a proof dime so I can see the differences plz.

I just edge search to, as Sean said if you dont see the zinc/copper two tone, pull it out.

Also after you get enough Canadians you'll be able to tell them apart from the silver as well....but I still pull them out just to be sure :-)

HH
Bigheed
 
It seems like it wouldn't be hard to miss 40% halves by edge checking, but there aren't 40% dimes. As long as you're diligent about double-checking any that are at all suspicious.

I don't do a high volume, so I don't mind going through some of mine more carefully looking for errors with a loupe. Usually I only error check ones that either are somehow suspicious looking or are in very nice condition. I'd like to know some dates that are good to check for known double-dies and other errors, but Roosevelt dimes don't seem very popular, so I haven't found a good list. The only important dates I know are either pre-1964 or the 1982 no mint mark.
 
I do many boxes a week and I only look at rims. Dimes (Rosies) do not have any key dates other than the 82 no mint mark, but I am ok with assuming I would never find one of those. After I filled my book, I have no reason to look at dates. I will look at a few bright rims for proofs, but with the newer dimes, those rims nearly stand out as much as a proof dime. I have found a number of 2009 dimes by occasionally looking at the bright rims - - Not really much of a find, but with the low mintage, years from now they may have a small premium.
 
i just edge check mine, but always investigate edges of interest. shiny, silvery, dirty, thick, thin, etc. anything that i cant tell for sure is clad, only takes a sec.
 
Phantomfe3 said:
i just edge check mine, but always investigate edges of interest. shiny, silvery, dirty, thick, thin, etc. anything that i cant tell for sure is clad, only takes a sec.

Same thing I do. I not only look at silver, but anything solid copper, or solid tarnish...as I think there may be silver under there!
 
I edge check & I am getting better at it. Just like the other guys stated. I look for color difference. HH Doug
 
It seems like a lot of the ones I find suspicious enough to date check are the earliest clad dates ('65, '66). Has anyone else noticed that? Some of them have hardly any copper showing on parts of the edges, so I guess they were still figuring out the clad process. I suppose they would have accumulated more wear and corrosion than the newer dates too.
 
I notice these a lot, 1965s have very weak edge clad frequently. I usually spin the roll around on these questionable dimes while closely examining with my loupe
 

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