Fisher AQ Battery, How to make a 5.5 or 8 hour battery

[OBN]

Is it needed to use a more expensive machine?
13000W Battery Spot Welder, Awgem 0.1-0.4mm Portable Spot Welder with Rotary Knob 100 Gears, Auto/Foot Pedal Modes, Dual-Pulse Spot Welder for Lithium Battery Repair and Welding

$72.99

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Awge...ual-Pulse/dp/B0GF7HH3F8/?tag=treasurenet01-20

Either of those will be fine, sure will make the job cleaner and quicker..
Mine is almost 6 years old now, I had someone tell me I would never get my money back if I bought it.. Did not take long to pay for itself, and it was good investment.

 

[OBN]

Clear wrap or solid black? I like seeing the goods so we are going clear. Cut the endcaps and for the 8 hour battery were using the 2 inch / 1 7/8 Tube. A different size is required for the 4 cell and 8 cell if we do the 4 in a bundle, or 8 in a double.

 

[OBN]

15 minute epoxy used for first install of the bottom endcap

TOP Endcap drilled and tapped for Heyco and M12 8 pin CTX female. will be using head phones with the M12 8 pin Male CTX fitting. It you want to use the stock M8 fitting so the fisher HP's will fit I can leave the part number. I like the bigger M12 for I have never seen one fail..I have seen the M8 s snap........................ Also when I do install the Heyco and the M12 fitting I will coat threads with the quick dry epoxy.

Let me know if you need the tap sizes, you can drill over size and use the 15 minute epoxy to seal them also, but i prefer the threaded.

Also ...A small amount of the slow dry epoxy (24 hour) has been poured into the bottom for a extra seal from the inside.

 

[OBN]

Shrink wrapped both and ready to work the endcaps

90 degree M8 cable installed ..Brown is +...Blue -
Black and White wires are the Audio hooked to the M-12 8 pin Female fitting, which you can use Head Phones that use the M-12 8 pin CTX style plug

M12 8 pin CTX male plug for the head phone cord wiring.. and it is the opposite side on the female pictured above on the endcap

Next ..Test batteries on the machine and check audio with Hp's installed
then batteries into tubes and start sealing with epoxy.

 

[Assembler]

15 minute epoxy used for first install of the bottom endcap

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TOP Endcap drilled and tapped for Heyco and M12 8 pin CTX female. will be using head phones with the M12 8 pin Male CTX fitting. It you want to use the stock M8 fitting so the fisher HP's will fit I can leave the part number. I like the bigger M12 for I have never seen one fail..I have seen the M8 s snap........................ Also when I do install the Heyco and the M12 fitting I will coat threads with the quick dry epoxy.
View attachment 2256610

Let me know if you need the tap sizes, you can drill over size and use the 15 minute epoxy to seal them also, but i prefer the threaded.

Also ...A small amount of the slow dry epoxy (24 hour) has been poured into the bottom for a extra seal from the inside.

View attachment 2256611

Is the tap size 3/8" NC. threads?
Thanks.

 

[OBN]

batteries power up the AQ and audio works as it should

Now to mix up some 24 hour epoxy,

Bottoms have been seal from outside and inside with slow dry epoxy

Insert batteries

insert batteries into tubes, pour 24 hour epoxy in, set batteries up right

make sure sealed 100%..... and mix some 15 minute fast dry epoxy to install the endcaps .. Make sure to leave a 1/4 inch at the top to do a final seal

Now flip the batteries to where the slow dry epoxy will flow to the bottom of the upside down battery.

Let dry for 24 hours

 

[OBN]

Is the tap size 3/8" NC. threads?
Thanks.

 

[Assembler]

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The metric sizes 9 x 18 and 7 x 20 are somewhat hard to find, any source ideas?
Thanks.

 

[OBN]

The metric sizes 9 x 18 and 7 x 20 are somewhat hard to find, any source ideas?
Thanks.

Sorry, Its been years since I bought them. All I remember it was online. I would imagine if you have a regular set you can make them thread tight, and use the epoxy fast dry to lock in. All gets sealed so well with 3 layer's of Epoxy/Endcap, then epoxy I see no way it could ever leak.

Got the mounts cut today will be working on finishing up.... shaping and fitting this weekend. Cut several for future needs.
Poured a little too much slow dry epxoy in 8 hour, will not cause a problem with the functions for the clear PVC wrap on the battery did not allow it to enter.

 

[Assembler]

Sorry, Its been years since I bought them. All I remember it was online. I would imagine if you have a regular set you can make them thread tight, and use the epoxy fast dry to lock in. All gets sealed so well with 3 layer's of Epoxy/Endcap, then epoxy I see no way it could ever leak.

Got the mounts cut today will be working on finishing up.... shaping and fitting this weekend. Cut several for future needs.
Poured a little too much slow dry epxoy in 8 hour, will not cause a problem with the functions for the clear PVC wrap on the battery did not allow it to enter.

View attachment 2257253

Even if the threads don't fit the fittings the epoxy should fill the gap as long as the hole size is close.
Looking forward to the mounts for the batteries.

 

[OBN]

Cut plastic strips..

Hot glued to a wooden handle, shaped with 60 grit Sand Paper on sander.

Pulled off the wood handle, comes off easy.

Cleaned up with 60 grit, checking fit on the AQ shaft mounts, sanded a little more for fitting.

Final pictures coming... epoxy to the batteries, making sure to place where M8 power cord will plug in easy with out stressing the cord. You can dress the battery up with Carbon fiber covering which looks much better but some like to see the insides. Also if you use a 90 degrees power cord you will need to rotate the M8 4 pin male fitting on the end of the AQ shaft, have pictures will post of that also.

 

[Assembler]

Cut plastic strips..
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Hot glued to a wooden handle, shaped with 60 grit Sand Paper on sander.
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Pulled off the wood handle, comes off easy.
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Cleaned up with 60 grit, checking fit on the AQ shaft mounts, sanded a little more for fitting.
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Final pictures coming... epoxy to the batteries, making sure to place where M8 power cord will plug in easy with out stressing the cord. You can dress the battery up with Carbon fiber covering which looks much better but some like to see the insides. Also if you use a 90 degrees power cord you will need to rotate the M8 4 pin male fitting on the end of the AQ shaft, have pictures will post of that also.

Nothing like a pair of third hands to hold the plastic for the grinding stage. Great tip.

 

[OBN]

Double epoxied in place, Check fit on mounts before installing. Light coat of epoxy to set in place, full length. Making sure to align mount with 90 degree fitting. Then I do a drip epoxy where i load up the channel then let it flow out, one side at a time.

If you own a PI or AQ the stock phones are good but I feel needed improvements so I rebuilt a few sets for my friends (Ron & Jim) that own AQ's and me.. Also Jim will get the 8 hour battery and the 5+ hour battery is my spare.

Audio runs from 103db to 107dbs on these sets. No other head phones are close as far as being good for deep faints. Tonys are about 93 to 95dbs, GG 91dbs

 

[OBN]

Charger 16.8volts

Parts list in first post.

 

[Sand Swinger]

I'm sure you could, even cheaper would take a Piece of PVC pipe

And Thank You for the kind words. I enjoy what I do and don't mind sharing ... many share Ideas that inspire me or others to be more creative on projects.

Joe, long after you're gone, your words and contributions to the metal detecting community will still be here and appreciated. You've built an incredible legacy, I swear you know absolutely everyone in this hobby, lol. Recently, I was going through some boxes under my workbench and found a pair of headphones I made using Peltor shells after devouring one of your DIY headphone posts, maybe around 2010/2011, maybe later. Don't remember exactly but long time ago.

Back then, there were 2 guys I followed religiously on the detecting forums; Critterhunter and You. Critterhunter swung a Sovereign GT, I had a Sov Elite, and like you, he posted lots of highly detailed mods & upgrades with pic's for Minelab Sovereigns, you did the same for Excal's and headphones. I used Critterhunter's switch mod to make a switch for my Sov to switch between discrim & all-metal modes. He also posted an incredible mod for adding a small, circular Target ID meter that could be installed in the control boxes speaker cutout, instead of having to use the large, boxy meter that Minelab had for the Sov's. Haven't done that one yet, but it's crossed my mind many times over the last dozen or so years. That's the mod that Joe Patrick offered, but IIRC, I'm pretty sure Critterhunter was first.

And I used one of your headphone DIY posts to make those Peltor headphones, except I didn't make mine waterproof as my Sov is land only. I added a volume knob and input jack to the shell instead of hard wiring, so that I could use a cable with 1/4 phone jacks on each end. One jack plugged into the headphone shell, the other plugs into the Sov's headphone input. This way, if the cable frayed or a short developed, I'd just replace the cable without having to tear into the headphone shell, and I could also make cables in a variety of lengths. BTW, your legacy is safe with me. Back then, every time I came across one of your DIY mods/upgrades, I'd copy to a MS Word doc and print it out, same with all of Critterhunter's Sovereign mods/upgrades. Between you & Critterhunter, I have a stack of printed mods/upgrades over 1 foot high, lol.

So, THANK YOU for everything you've done to help the detecting community. I for one am extremely grateful! 🙏

 

[Sand Swinger]

To a point, but I think it still need some kind of protective shell. One thing I have always said, the Li-ion and Lipo batteries are like little nukes. One reason I do keep a 5 gallon double layer paint bucket 1/2 full with water near when working on this stuff. No plans for weds so hope to start on this project.

No lie brother, love "little nukes", lol. We used LiPo rechargeable battery packs many years ago when I was flying RC airplanes.

I wired up a LiPo pack for one of my older Sovereigns I had many years ago, and it gave me at least 2x longer run times than stock batteries or NiCad's. I was always concerned about them exploding and/or catching fire while charging, as they'll burn like a magnesium fire when you try to add water.

I didn't like the idea of leaving them outside to charge so they wouldn't burn my house down if they did explode/catch fire, so when I ordered the LiPo's, I also added a fireproof charging bag so I could charge them in the house without worry. If they did go boom or caught fire, they'd be inside that fireproof bag and it would contain the boom & fire.

 

[Sand Swinger]

Good idea to charge up the batteries away from the detector so the detector does not get nuked as well. The thin jacket of the heat shrink plastic is to just contain, help keep water away and not protect.
Good tip about keeping a bucket of water nearby for the little nukes.
Thanks for willing to start when you can.

Also, there are fireproof charging bags available for LiPo's & similar batteries that you can place your battery pack in while charging. If the battery does catch on fire or go nuclear, the bag will contain the boom & exploded parts, as well as fire.

 

[Sand Swinger]

Blue 8 hour battery is almost done, started the 5 hour should have pictures up by Sunday for it.


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Poly Fuse can be used, if so it goes in place of the lead strips. Used those on all the batteries I sold for safety reason..made several since without ..No Issues


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Do not leave any open/bare spots.. must be sealed

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Epoxied together


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Taped together then epoxied, tape removed



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Voltage check on the BMS B+ B- terminals, 16.56 volts

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M-8 4 pin 90 on to test voltage, temporary install ...................Main power wires. P+ P-

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BMS Out voltage 0000..Zero, BMS must be awaken by putting on charger





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Charger on, green then to red ..charging.. need to check voltage again.

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BMS is now awaken..
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5 hour battery in the works. Pictures soon. Once the batteries are done will start the shells

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Joe, I remember seeing a heavy-duty soldering machine that basically tack welds larger pieces of metal, like your tabs to the bottom of the batteries. I seem to recall the machine wasn't that big and had a soldering tip that you could lower down, like a drill press, onto the metals that you want to solder/weld.

Do you use a machine like that or do you solder those tabs to the batteries by hand?

 

[Assembler]

Joe, I remember seeing a heavy-duty soldering machine that basically tack welds larger pieces of metal, like your tabs to the bottom of the batteries. I seem to recall the machine wasn't that big and had a soldering tip that you could lower down, like a drill press, onto the metals that you want to solder/weld.

Do you use a machine like that or do you solder those tabs to the batteries by hand?

A number of spot welds will be much stronger than a solider joint.

 

[Sand Swinger]

When I did solder them before I got the Battery welder I would lightly sand the a small area of the battery tips with a dermal disc then use some chipquik flux. (any will do) Then load up my soldering iron tip with hot solder. On what Wattage to use, that Im not sure. I have a work station so I know the heat goes to 480 when I used it. I'll have to look up mine wattage to see.

Mine is 70 Watt

I'll do a separate post for the 5 hour battery then the same on the 8 cell. So there is less confusing and not all packed into one post.

Totally agree on the digital soldering station Joe, mine's 70 Watt as well.

Here's a couple additional suggestions from my experience. I learned early on when I was building hand wired guitar amps that if/when I was soldering 2 larger pieces of metal, or when there was a larger area of metal to heat, it's best to use a large, beefy flat tip on the soldering iron. Personally, I would avoid using a cheap pen soldering iron, especially with a pointed tip, that won't cut it IMO. Pointed tips are for soldering more delicate components in tight areas, like soldering a component lead to a PCB trace. But large metal surfaces require a lot more heat, so a larger & beefier tip on the iron is called for. But the problem I found with those cheap pen soldering irons you get for $15 or $20 is that they typically aren't adjustable, so there's no way to regulate wattage/heat. Without being able to regulate wattage/heat, you won't be able to keep the tip at a constant temperature. Once you touch the tip to metal to solder, the tip quickly starts losing heat due to thermal transfer, and you constantly have to wait for the tip to heat up again before continuing. Ask me how I know, lol.

The other problem I've experienced firsthand with cheap pen irons, is that without being able to keep the tip at a constant temperature, you have a high probability of getting cold solder joints. The main thing I've learned about soldering over the years is that you want the tip to be able to heat up the surfaces you'll be soldering quickly, get the solder flowing fast, so you can remove the tip as quickly as possible. With some electronic components, if you leave the iron on too long, you can wind up damaging or melting internal material, so while component might look OK on the outside, the inside might be a melted mess. So, if you're using a cheap pen iron, since the tip starts losing heat when touched to metal, you may wind up leaving the tip on the metal longer that necessary since you're trying to get a nice shiny solder joint. But if you remove the tip too quickly, you wind up with a dull, nasty looking cold solder joint.

So IMHO, hot constant tip temperature and minimal length of time touching metal & solder is the key to shiny, solid welds and minimal chance of component damage. And for that, I'd definitely recommend using a digital soldering workstation with variable wattage/temp.