I've used my Bounty Hunter Elite 2200 (the same machine) for a little over a month. Been out with it at least 30 times - about an hour each time because I have to fit it in between dropping off the kids and getting to work.
Totally agree with the previous post about not wrapping the cord too tightly around the shaft and always checking the connection. Also, swing control. Those two things eliminated all the ghosts and odd blips.
In parks, I turn the sensitivity down to no bar, and even then it finds things that are too deep to dig. If I was in an open field it would be different, but when I first started out I'd cut a flap, hinge it open, and dig around for the target; now I have a pinpointer and I pop coins with a 4" screwdriver, no digging and no trace I've been there. Honestly, in my area (recently built, nothing around until the developers moved in) I don't imagine there's very much of value down deep anyways, and the potential damage to the turf outweighs the benefit to me.
Remember that the "depth" indicated includes the height of the coil above the surface. In mowed park grass, the surface could be a couple inches below the grass level. Nonetheless, I've found that in parks, where the soil is moist, my Bounty Hunter Elite 2200 tends to say targets are deeper than they are. I've found that any reading around 2" indicates a surface or surface-scrape item, and 4-6" indicates that it's buried an inch or so below the surface. I've successfully popped coins (and poptops and bottle caps) indicated as deep as 6"+, and I my screwdriver is only a 4 incher plus my pinpointer, a cheapie, only detects down about 3".
Even with the sensitivity down at no bars, the 2200 finds all kinds of clad.
I hunt in all metal mode, and only zap out iron if it gets too noisy. I like "reading" the various tones by ear, and having frequent audio helps me quickly catch when my headphone plug has pulled out a little.
I've learned to not look at the center of the coil. The signal is strongest at the outside of the inner ring. The "drawing an X" approach helps in pinpointing, but you have to focus on the edge of the inner ring instead of the dead center. A pinpointer is almost essential, I think. At the very least, a pinpointer will help minimize turf damage and improve recovery speed.
I use rechargeable NiMH 9-volt batteries, and they work excellently. I carry a two-pack of 9v alkaline batteries in my detecting bag just in case, but I just recharge them every couple weeks. I have noticed it performs better on the top half of battery charge; when it drops below the halfway mark it just doesn't seem to lock on as well.
Those are my tips. I think it's a great machine, and its capabilities far outstrip my own and likely will for some time!