My new ETRAC

sparky661

Jr. Member
Jun 1, 2012
76
38
Oswego NY
Detector(s) used
ETRAC ,T2 SE , Garret Pro pointer
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
Okay here we go, I've been using the Garret 350 for 4 months now and decided it was time to upgrade to the ETRAC. The first one would not turn on so it was sent back.
While waiting I read everything I could about setting up the ETRAC and how to use it. Now I have the new one and seem to be struggling to get to know it. The problem is that I'm picking up the targets but having a hard time identifying the targets. The articles tell me I should see a 12-45 range for coins, with the Fe staying at 12 and the Co varying. One article said to pay more attention to the Co than the Fe and I agree with that from what I have seen. But I've been getting a lot of strange readings like 01-34 , 09-23............... I read all the time about readers get the set numbers but I do i'm not getting the result? I used the stock coin program and slowed my swing way down and buried coins and played it it and still struggled to get that perfect number for the coins the 12 Fe range. Are there any settings or hints to help my numbers become truer to the perfect numbers that it should receive? I'm digging a lot of junk now and would really appreciate any tips from the pros here on the ETRAC, and yes I've played with the emulator program. Thanks
 

The Etrac does very good at locking in on the numbers, not perfect but very good. The deeper you get the more the numbers can change and any "Junk" you have near the coin will change them. You say 12-45, that is more of a deeper quarter number here in PA. There are coin charts available from other people. Those odd numbers are junk and I bet they jump all over in both the F and C. You really need to only concentrate on numbers that seem to stay very close to each other from different angles and then pinpoint to make sure it is a coin size object.
 

Use the Minelab coin program. Dig all 12 anything. At 12-33 the first # FE can go lower but the 2nd # CON will stay above 33.

Here is a sample of what you can find online if you do a search for "Etrac numbers". *This is not my writing.

Coin Type Date Fe-Co # Tone

Large Cent 1850 03 - 45 high

Flying Eagle cent 1857 11 - 24 low
Indian Head (Fatty) 1860 11 - 25 low
Indian Head 1900 11 - 35 high
Wheat penny (early) 1919 12 - 35 low
Wheat penny (later) 1942 12 - 44 high

Seated Half Dime (silver) 1862 11 - 36 high
Shield Nickel 1867 12 - 12 low
V Nickel 1905 12 - 12 low
War Nickel 1942 12 - 13 low
Modern Nickel Pres 12 - 13 low

Barber Dime 1898 12 - 42 high (steady)
Mercury Dime 1941 12 - 45 high (flutey)
Rosey (silver) 1948 12 - 45 high (flutey)
Modern Dime (clad) Pres 12 - 44 high (steady)

Barber Quarter 1899 12 - 46(~47) high (flutey)
Standing Liberty Quarter 1920 11 - 47 high (steady)
Washington (silver) 1945 11 - 47 high (steady)

Barber Half 1900 (~03) 04 - 47 high (steady)
Walking Liberty Half 1936 06 - 47 high (steady)
Franklin Silver half 1953 03 - 43 high (sporatic)***
Kennedy Silver half 1964 03 - 44 high (sporatic)***

Morgan Dollar 1921 01 - 42 high (sporatic)***
Peace Dollar 1922 01 - 41 medium/high (steady)
Eisenhower Dollar 1976 01 - 42 high (sporatic)***
Susan B. Anthony 1980 11 - 45 high (steady)
Sacagawea 2000 11 - 46 high (steady)

Ed D.
 

I went from a Whites XLT to the SE Pro , the numbers were ,are, just too confusing to me so I went to the screen with the cross-hairs on it and run around 20 or so in iron mask . I may be doing it wrong but seem to do better with this than relying on numbers . I dig all good repeatable sounding signals and do pretty good in my opinion , I haven't posted much here lately but am a long time member . Give it a try and see what you think ...........


Mac
 

I played with it again today and paid more attention to the tones than the numbers and did allot better. This is all great advice thanks for the info. it is greatly appreciated.
OH and Mac232, I have 2 boxers... love them to death. :)
 

I played with it again today and paid more attention to the tones than the numbers and did allot better. This is all great advice thanks for the info. it is greatly appreciated.

Tones are your friend! Specially if another target is close or if it is deep.
 

Always tones first !!! You will get it .

Agree 100%
Switch to conductive -> multi tones.
Dig all high tones regardless of numbers with 1 exception. I personally do not dig anything above FE 26 because in my personal experience, it has always been iron.
 

Hello sparky661. I'm new to the forum but have detected off and on for about 30 years. I used to sell Bounty Hunters long ago but now I own Minelab. I have a Quattro which is very similar to the Safari and an Etrac. Personally, the Etrac simply cannot be beat. There is a mode that us Etracer's use called TTF. (two tone ferrous) that allows the user to get tonal feedback on ferrous and conductive targets. Simply put, it is all I use whether coin hunting or relic hunting. Using TTF you will find coins in the same hole with nails or other ferrous targets; sometime one laying on top of the other. In TTF mode you do pay some attention to the numbers since you only have one tone for conductive but this is not too difficult. What I look for are reasonably consistent conductive numbers that have a repeatable signal from two separate paths. Use the best headphones you can afford and listen closely for very faint but distinct conductive 'blips'. This is usually a coin stashed between ferrous targets. The depth is incredible given the soil that I hunt in and would not want to change to another detector for a very long time. Good luck and stick with the Etrac; you won't be disappointed.
 

icanfindem took the words out of my mouth on the TTF. :icon_thumleft: My friend is experienced with the E-trac, and kills the deep silver in many trashy areas with TTF. I am new as well, but the results will come for us once we put some more time in. Good luck!
 

I'm pretty new to the Etrac only had mine for a couple months but what I have found is that the FE#'s will change but the CO numbers stay pretty constant. I'm in Indiana and for me a CO number of 44 is going to be a dime. I've dug dimes that are 11-44, 12-44, 10-44 I go by tone. Once I find a good repeatable tone I'll look at the numbers. I also check the depth. The deeper the target the less I go by numbers. Also I've found that crushed pop cans or large pieces of aluminum can give off really nice coin signals. I always check the size of the target by lifting my coil a 8-10 inches off the ground, especially if the target is supposedly only 1-3 inches down. If the detector still sounds off most likely it is a piece of junk or a jar full of gold coins:)
 

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