Please help

[ArmyVeteran84]

I have some Ball Mason quarts with the seams that don't run up the jar.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you!

Jim

 

[Sandog]

Interesting. Are those air bubbles in the glass?

 

[ArmyVeteran84]

Interesting. Are those air bubbles in the glass?

Hello Sandog

Thank you.
They most certainly are, cool huh?
I think I have one or two others that look like that.
Well, according to the book they call them seeds.
Here's a quick description according to the book.
"A Characteristic of the glass caused by a multitude of air bubbles being captured in the glass".
I agree, they look like air bubbles, being the shape.
I'm learning more and more about these all the time.

Jim

 

[Sandog]

Great. Don't air bubbles like that in glass indicate that it is relatively old?

 

[Robot]

Hi ArmyVeteran84,

You are right...These are Glass Jars that have trapped air bubbles...More rare and valuable!

Seeds: Many antique glass jars and bottles contain “seeds,” which are simply trapped air bubble. They indicate some age since newer glass doesn’t typically contain seeds.

 

[Robot]

Hi agian!
Being a Ball Mason Jar...This may help dating?

 

[ArmyVeteran84]

Great. Don't air bubbles like that in glass indicate that it is relatively old?

Hello Sandog

Robot, another member, summed it up well, too, in regards to the seeds.
Before getting back to you, I went on the hunt and found some more information to add to Robots comment.
Seed bubbles are formed because of incomplete glass ingredient melting. The alkali used to desolve the silica in the melting process forms small gas bubbles. These bubbles slowly rise to the surface and pop and usually become suspended in the molten glass if they aren't removed. They can be removed from the molten glass by reducing the temperature in the furnace and then raising it again. This causes the bubbles to condense and form larger bubbles that rise to the surface and burst faster.
Which goes back to your question about if jars with air bubbles indicate it being older, I say read yes. You won’t see those in newer jars/bottles.
Wow! this is what makes doing this so interesting and how we get more knowledgeable about what we find and / or collect. Very cool!

Thank you for that question.
Jim

 

[ArmyVeteran84]

Hello Sandog

Robot, another member, summed it up well, too, in regards to the seeds.
Before getting back to you, I went on the hunt and found some more information to add to Robots comment.
Seed bubbles are formed because of incomplete glass ingredient melting. The alkali used to desolve the silica in the melting process forms small gas bubbles. These bubbles slowly rise to the surface and pop and usually become suspended in the molten glass if they aren't removed. They can be removed from the molten glass by reducing the temperature in the furnace and then raising it again. This causes the bubbles to condense and form larger bubbles that rise to the surface and burst faster.
Which goes back to your question about if jars with air bubbles indicate it being older, I say read yes. You won’t see those in newer jars/bottles.
Wow! this is what makes doing this so interesting and how we get more knowledgeable about what we find and / or collect. Very cool!

Thank you for that question.
Jim

Hello Sandog

Lol.. this post originally started out with me asking about the seams on the side of the jars not lining up.
I'll still keep searching/asking.

Jom

 

[ArmyVeteran84]

Hi agian!
Being a Ball Mason Jar...This may help dating?

View attachment 2138023

Hello Robot

This does help very much, thank you!
Every bit of information I get from all of the members/yourself are a BIG help and put me one step closer to knowing more and more about jars.
This is what makes collecting and finding treasures interesting. I feel and can't speak for everybody but otherwise we'd just be buying/keeping for the heck of it. Talks like this keep my gears turning, lol..

Thanks again!
Jim

 

[Sandog]

My best guesses on the original question: 1. jar was somehow twisted in the mold at the neck. 2. the top with threads and the main body were made separately and then joined somehow.
Obviously I know nothing about glass jar manufacturing, so I can make up anything I want, LOL.

 

[ArmyVeteran84]

My best guesses on the original question: 1. jar was somehow twisted in the mold at the neck. 2. the top with threads and the main body were made separately and then joined somehow.
Obviously I know nothing about glass jar manufacturing, so I can make up anything I want, LOL.

That happens to be a good guess and kinda makes sense.
I've had these jars for a while now and to this day haven't found out anything about these seams, everything else but seams. That's kinda why I joined TN. Lots of unanswered questions, lol..
I wonder how many mistakes, if mistakes, got through in total 🤔
Thanks again for going back to the original question.

Jim

 

[FreeBirdTim]

This webpage explains why mold seams don't always line up:

https://sha.org/bottle/machinemadedating.htm


Here's the paragraph that deals with that issue:


1. Vertical side mold seams which usually (see the Note box below point #3 for an exception) run up to the highest point of the finish and often onto the extreme top finish surface (i.e., onto the rim or lip). On many early (very early 1900s into the 1920s) and occasional later (1930s and later) machine-made bottles the vertical body/neck and finish mold seams are discontinuous and offset from each other; click offset seams for a picture of this attribute. These vertical seams - finish mold seams vis-à-vis the upper neck mold seams - may range from just slightly offset to 90 degrees offset (like shown at the linked image above). The offset is a function of the orientation of the parison relative to the two molds (parison and blow molds) used on the particular machine, or occasionally, to the hot parison "sticking" to the neck ring of the parison/blank mold when transferring to the blow mold (Ceramic Industry 1949:14-15). There are also no horizontal tooling marks present on the finish and/or upper neck as would be observable on the finish of mouth-blown bottles.

 

[ArmyVeteran84]

This webpage explains why mold seams don't always line up:

https://sha.org/bottle/machinemadedating.htm


Here's the paragraph that deals with that issue:


1. Vertical side mold seams which usually (see the Note box below point #3 for an exception) run up to the highest point of the finish and often onto the extreme top finish surface (i.e., onto the rim or lip). On many early (very early 1900s into the 1920s) and occasional later (1930s and later) machine-made bottles the vertical body/neck and finish mold seams are discontinuous and offset from each other; click offset seams for a picture of this attribute. These vertical seams - finish mold seams vis-à-vis the upper neck mold seams - may range from just slightly offset to 90 degrees offset (like shown at the linked image above). The offset is a function of the orientation of the parison relative to the two molds (parison and blow molds) used on the particular machine, or occasionally, to the hot parison "sticking" to the neck ring of the parison/blank mold when transferring to the blow mold (Ceramic Industry 1949:14-15). There are also no horizontal tooling marks present on the finish and/or upper neck as would be observable on the finish of mouth-blown bottles.

Hello FreeBirdTim

WOW! WOW!
That article 👏 😳 is beyond AWSOME!
Big THANKS! this has so much helpful information.
I mean it talks about other stuff that pretty much clears up a lot of scratching of the head and hours searching, lol..
I was talking to another member on this site and was expressing just how great it is to have joined TN and show your treasures/finds to other members and the knowledge that each one brings. I'm having so much fun and learning so much about my collectibles that my wife wants me to post some of her antiques, lol.. I failed to mention, looking at what other members find. That in itself is amazing.
I've already told my wife I'm purchasing an MD, lol..
Anyway, I'm sure by now you can tell how excited I was one I saw this, lol.. Thanks again! 😊

Take care!
Jim