rust removal question

[JimK]

This may be an odd question but I was wondering about the removal of rust from iron relics. I have tried electrolysis (with limited success) on some smaller objects like a harness buckle that I found. The process is lengthy and messy and I am afraid if I leave the relic in to long it will be ruined. However I do have access to a glass bead blaster. Do you think that bead blasting a relic like the hammer in the picture would be better, worse or the same as the electrolysis. I really do not want to ruin any relics.

JimK

 

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[eyemustdigtreasure]

Well, after the electrolysis, then you might as well wire brush the sucker, like mad, and then soak the thing in household vinegar.
Submerge it by half inch extra, and let it be for a week, then take it out, flake off more rust, then
soak it in fresh vinegar, for another week - shouldn't hurt.
By then, the metal should start showing , after wire brushing it more, it should be close to stopping the process
and stabilize the metal from rusting more - use a very light coat of Vaseline - the iron object will be black now,
and after rubbing it with a cloth, to get the excess Vaseline off, it should be ready for display!

 

[JimK]

cool thanks.

JimK

 

[Skippy SH13]

If you're looking at truly removing all the rust quickly, you might consider Naval Jelly. This stuff is ULTRA potent, and will remove rust like crazy (dissolves it, really, and leaves the underlying metal unharmed). Takes 5-10 minutes, can be sprayed on, and is water soluble.

Used to use it on rusty stuff as a kid (mostly the undercarriage of vehicles). It'll definitely take the rust down all the way, and it's pretty potent stuff, so keep it away from plastics, painted surfaces, and other stuff not intended to be treated. Frankly, you'll be amazed at what it can do.

Please note, this stuff is awesome... but it will definitely take away ALL your rust... sometimes things that are rusted all the way through won't survive it! LOL

If you're looking for a graduated approach, this ain't it.

-Skippy

 

[Skippy SH13]

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/cleaning-preservation/162768-navel-jelly-question.html

Found this in Treasurenet archives... There's some use for it.

 

[boogeyman]

Give this a try. For your electrolysis bath add some citric acid. Been using this for years. Works great in a bath or rubbing as a paste. You can get it from most home brewing companies or from Spices Inc. A big plus is you don't have to worry about the dogs or kids getting it on em, and it'll leave the skin on your hands. One other thing I've noticed over the years is the residue comes off with a good rinse, so you don't have to keep worrying about it continuing to eat away your object.

www.SpicesInc.com

888-762-8642 Real nice people & great service. If you make sausage or do a lot of cooking their stuff is fresher & cheaper than the stores. Mexican Chorizo Seasoning puts a great zip in sausage!

 

[villagenut]

There are many variables that will determine how much or how little success you will have in an electolysis tank. Could be you missed on one of them. The tool in the photo looks like a good candidate for another try. Lot of meat still there, doubt you will ruin it. Remember, each artifact should be treated differently, based on its own needs and rarity. Some are more needy than others.

 

[JimK]

Thanks for all of the replys. I am thinking about which to try next. But is there any thoughts on the bead blasting? Is that to drastic of a process?

JimK

 

[NHBandit]

Molasses.. Untitled Document

 

[mick56]

I have a sand blaster that I have used on rusty iron, it takes it right down in a couple of seconds. Using beads should pose no problems. Small items I have put in my tumbler, and they clean up nicely.

 

[boogeyman]

Thanks for all of the replys. I am thinking about which to try next. But is there any thoughts on the bead blasting? Is that to drastic of a process?

JimK

Bead blasting has its good parts and bad. The finish you get looks blasted. That's OK if you're trying for a like new look. Walnut shell works a little better for stuff like tool restoration either users or wall hangers. Go to some of the sites for blasting media, they'll have sample pics that you can see what different media leaves for a finish. If you're looking for a "kinda" antique finish try the citric acid in a electrolysis bath then finish or touch up with the orange or blue fibre wheels. You can pick those up at Harbor Freight for a couple bucks each. Walnut shell with a light brushing on a fibre wheel leaves a nice finish you'll like on tools. If you want to wait forever & a day molasses........ Been restoring tools for over 20 years, and sad to say have probably made every mistake you can make.

 

[JimK]

Thanks for the kind advise. This piece is a civil war era hammer and fairly crusted. I may try the citric acid method and see what happens. I plan on trying some of these methods on some horse shoes found at the same site before doing anything on the hammer, just in case. Thanks again

JimK

 

[voodoo]

could you post another pic to let us know how it turned out? I would be very curious Thanks.

 

[mick56]

That might not be a hammer, could be part of a monkey wrench.

 

[jeff of pa]

you should be looking here



Cleaning & Preservation

Share your artifact and coin cleaning and preservation techniques here.

can be found in the [h=2]Research/Techniques[/h]
section of TreasureNet

 

[Digging Deeper]

I think your right mick

 

[JunGun]

Try coke-a-cola and a plastic bristle brush or you can try denatured alcohol and backing soda also.

 

[Skippy SH13]

That might not be a hammer, could be part of a monkey wrench.

Wow! Great catch

 

[JimK]

That might not be a hammer, could be part of a monkey wrench.

Thanks but it is not part of a monkey wrench. I have found exact examples of the hammer that i have on line and they have been called a picket line hammer or an artillery hammer.

JimK

 

[mick56]

People can call it whatever they want to.