✅ SOLVED Test your skills on this one! Spent years trying to ID this.

musclecar

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I found this in Alaska about 10 years ago, and have never been able to ID it. It is an aluminum piece, about 3 inches square. It has 15 teeth and is numbered 1-15. There is a stop preventing it from spinning freely. The back has two tabs that may have been used to mount it. ANY GUESSES?

Thanks,

MC

PS The quarter used for size was found yesterday! 1935S Yeah!
 

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what bugs me most is I have seen one of these before but can't place it. I am a photographer and 120 film (or 220) does not have sprocket holes. There were lots of 120/220 formats. 6x6 being the most common (12 exposures per roll) but also 6x7, 6x8, 6x12 (panorama) Now the most common is 6x6 meaning 12 exposures but again almost all 120 cameras also took 220 film, meaning 24 exposures. so 15 won't cut it. 6x8 or larger may have only made 15 exposures on 220 film so it is possible but I don't believe any camera counter looked like that. ( yes I have taken apart lots of cameras) at the same time since I have seen one of these before I guess it is possible.

Count me as one of the haunted
 

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More against camera part

Ok some older cameras only used 120 film, however all older cameras I know of ( I just checked 4 different ones I had here) had a red window and the frame # was on the paper backing of the film and showed through the red window. ( This was before color film) newer cameras would have been 120/220 and needed a 24 frame counter.
 

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musclecar said:
I found this in Alaska about 10 years ago, and have never been able to ID it. It is an aluminum piece, about 3 inches square. It has 15 teeth and is numbered 1-15. There is a stop preventing it from spinning freely. The back has two tabs that may have been used to mount it. ANY GUESSES?

Thanks,

MC

PS The quarter used for size was found yesterday! 1935S Yeah!

I've dont really have the time to read through all postings on this, but i really want to know to know: 1. What sort of place you found it in. 2.Type of terrain.3. Eventual logging in the area. 4. Distance to nearest river able to float cut timber or sawn boards in bunches of 15 downriver.(at least in the spring, when there is enough water to float it) Logging is typically done in winter when the ground is hard enough to bear transport sleds or wagons(horsedrawn). some snow actually makes this easier for the horses, then transported either directly down to the river's edge or put on the ice for the spring flooding to carry it downriver.5. Sawmills in the area or downriver to the sea and maybe up to 10 or 15 miles at least up or down the coastline.
I think it is some kind of simple counter for getting the loads into uniform bunches to make it easier to count and pay the logging operations for the timber delivered. But we never used something like that here in Sweden. We had especially employed people to measure up the timber and classifying it (marking it up) before sending it down to the sawmills or paper mills. Some of it was even cut in special dimensions for use as telephone or power-line poles etc. Wood-coal was measured and paid for at at the destination. As was tar.
Other than that I really can't imagine any use for it at all... Cattle or sheep in Alaska? Some milkers, pigs, sheep or goats for the locals but nothing more (too hard to keep them fed in the winter, i think).
 

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I think the moderators should give lifetime (of the person or website) charter membership to the person who eventually becomes responsible for getting rid of this thread! This item is a horrible device of satan that continues to make us all crazy. It seems SWR and Peerless are both onto things that sound plausible to me. Please!!! One of you get the proof and kill this thing!
 

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Skrimpy said:
I think the moderators should give lifetime (of the person or website) charter membership to the person who eventually becomes responsible for getting rid of this thread! This item is a horrible device of satan that continues to make us all crazy. It seems SWR and Peerless are both onto things that sound plausible to me. Please!!! One of you get the proof and kill this thing!
Someone marked it solved.solved check.gif ;D

As a refrigeration technician, I see no way for this dial to attach to the shaft of a cold control relay and I have yet to hear this explained. The dial cannot attach to the shaft by simply pressing up against it. Just like your dial on your MD. It must be attached securely to the shaft of the electronic control to adjust/turn it.

Forget about the fridge theory, unless the shaft has broken off. (see arrow) It doesnt look broken. It looks like a rivet. This is some kind of counter.
 

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SWR said:
As a refrigeration technician, you have to agree that the numbering (1-15) is typical for incremental adjustments of temperature. 1F to 15F adjustment.

I am miffed as to why you cannot see there are missing parts to this item. The bent tab above the capillary tube hooks have a jagged edge, suggestion something was broken off, the two holes right below the hooks appear to be wallowed out and what you are calling the rivet that holds the wheel appears to have been rubbing on something, to make it shine like that.

I honestly doubt an exact duplicate will ever be produced, but if you compare it with a modern capillary thermostat, the elements are the same.
No sorry. I realize this is only a dial and much is missing (in theory). There may be something broken between the tabs as well. The element that is missing of importance here is the shaft. ...unless it has broken off. I cant tell by the pic.

Domestic refrigerator cold controls are not usually in degrees of temperature. A commercial type maybe but it would still need to connect at the shaft. Compare to your MD. How can a control knob attach and turn without a shaft? It cannot just rub on the electronic control. It must turn something inside the electronics. I am a little miffed as well my friend.Maybe you do not understand the inside workings of a cold control. Do you think the shaft has broken off and appears as a rivet?

Something I noticed that may be a tiny clue, I dunno. The two raised ribs would allow this counter to lay flat so the dial can freely turn.
 

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Hey SWR,

I think Cypress is the closest.

BTW does SWR represent your initials, Standing Wave Ratio?

TimC
 

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We need to talk to Musclecar. He was last active on August 19th. If the rivet/shaft is broken off, then I change my mind. :D
 

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Guys, I wasn't the first one to recognize it, but I'll say it again:

It's the temperature adjustment dial from an old refrigerator. I couldn't find a pic or old manual on the internet to prove it so someone will have to show it to an older refrigerator repairman or email it to one of those websites that sells antique appliances. I was fascinated by it and played with it many times when I was a kid and recognized it instantly even though the cover is missing and it is out of context. I helped defrost the refrigerator. There is no question about what it is, the only thing lacking is proof.

The only thing I can say to try to convince anyone without visual proof is that it obviously is too light to perform a mechanical task such as a gear would, and the attachments are not sturdy enough. In fact, it obviously is not designed for any kind of frequent or heavy usage, especially considering its age and how much better things were made then.

A counter makes no sense because it is manually operated like a telephone dial, click counters have been around longer than this piece and why would you need a counter to go to only fifteen? Telephone ringer volume adjustment wheels are much smaller (though I think that is the best guess out of the ones I have seen here), camera parts are smaller and much more heavy duty, and to count days (such as for gestation) you use a calendar, not a dial, unless there are multiple dials to mark the date, like in a date ink stamper. You can see by the font style of the numbers that it was originally designed from say 1910 to 1960, probably the 1920s to maybe 1940s. Finally, the aluminum is the same weight and finish of other parts of refrigerators from the period.
 

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Burger said:
Guys, I wasn't the first one to recognize it, but I'll say it again:

It's the temperature adjustment dial from an old refrigerator. I couldn't find a pic or old manual on the internet to prove it so someone will have to show it to an older refrigerator repairman or email it to one of those websites that sells antique appliances. I was fascinated by it and played with it many times when I was a kid and recognized it instantly even though the cover is missing and it is out of context. I helped defrost the refrigerator. There is no question about what it is, the only thing lacking is proof.

The only thing I can say to try to convince anyone without visual proof is that it obviously is too light to perform a mechanical task such as a gear would, and the attachments are not sturdy enough. In fact, it obviously is not designed for any kind of frequent or heavy usage, especially considering its age and how much better things were made then.

A counter makes no sense because it is manually operated like a telephone dial, click counters have been around longer than this piece and why would you need a counter to go to only fifteen? Telephone ringer volume adjustment wheels are much smaller (though I think that is the best guess out of the ones I have seen here), camera parts are smaller and much more heavy duty, and to count days (such as for gestation) you use a calendar, not a dial, unless there are multiple dials to mark the date, like in a date ink stamper. You can see by the font style of the numbers that it was originally designed from say 1910 to 1960, probably the 1920s to maybe 1940s. Finally, the aluminum is the same weight and finish of other parts of refrigerators from the period.
I hate to keep asking, but how does the dial attach to the shaft of the cold control? Is it broken? CAN YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN? Did it have a capillary tube? Why would you need a numbered dial to manually defrost an old refridgerator? I remember unplugging and chipping ice, thats all you could do. Didnt cold controls usually go 1-10 anyway? I dont remember ever seeing one go to 15. And the highest (coldest?) number is partially obscured or out of line with the others.

Welcome to TN Burger. You are not the first person to say they recognize it and played with it as a kid. The camera guy said the same.I wish I had a buck for every person that said they were 100 percent sure of an ID.

Cameras were much larger back in the day, plastics werent stable or used much yet and film counters went to 15. (You could get 13, 14 or so out of a 12 exposure film). The number 15 being smaller makes me think it didnt go there much. Its certainly strong enough for a camera film counter.
 

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SWR said:
bigcypresshunter said:
I hate to keep asking, but how does the dial attach to the shaft of the cold control? Is it broken? CAN YOU PLEASE EXPLAIN?

Sure. I'll try to find a schematic from Johnson Controls, too.

You seem to be hung up on the shaft. The dial spins a offset cam (that would be the broken piece underneath) that draws the flex metal or capillary reservoir closer or farther from the contacts.
Of course I am hung up on it. Without a shaft or connection to the electronics, it cannot work.

An offset cam perhaps, but I dont see that either, unless it is broken on the bottom. Only musclecar can answer that. It certainly doesnt look broken.

BTW I didnt work on commercial ref. much but I looked it up and the temp differential is usually more than 15 degrees on cold controls and not numbered that way. Its usually wider than a 15 degree range. If numbered in actual temps, it would be above number 32 degrees for cold or a freezer range would go under 0 degrees. 1-15 doesnt fit a cold control. If my memory is correct, fridge cold controls are numbered 1-10, maybe 1-5 or in ABC letters. 1-15 is odd. Frigidaire and General Motors were popular. Check your fridge at home.
 

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Another thought- The cap tube is not usually attached to the back side. In this case (in theory) it would be attached inside an antiquated large cold control? ???
 

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I'm with bigcypresshunter on this, and to everyone who has offered suggestions, please don't think you are being dismissed out of hand. My cynicism is based on experience and a lack of proof as to this effers usage

Looking at what we see (and I realise it may not be all of it) I cannot see where anything would interact. No shaft - on the back is a simple set hollow rivet. I don't see where anything has worn or impinged on it to drive or be driven. You may say that a thermostat wouldn't be used enough to show signs of wear, but look at the base plate above and below the pointer. It has been turned frequently (ok could have been done since dug)

I'm having a tough time with camera film now, if the film perforations were the equal to the width of the teeth, then surely the film would be equal to the circumference (~9" assuming about 3" across).

Say the frame size was 6x6 for example, then for this to count 14 frames (it doesn't go to 15) there would need to be abt least 130" of film with a perf hole every 6". I'm no photographer but is that typical?? All film I've seen seems to have continuous perforations along the edge. We already know that the medium format film doesn't have perfs, so would we be looking at a later film which is smaller format and consequently fits in a smaller camera? I dunno - photography is a weak area for me

As stated, I have no beefs, just want to see proof of what it is. Also I'm not bored yet as I'm a new member!
 

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are the gaps between the points all the same measurements? or do they progressively get larger or smaller with the numbers?
 

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One day, someone will show us all a pic of an ovulating ocelot, or something similar, in a cage with the thing attached to it's refrigerator, while it takes photos and strews seeds amongst all the followers of this thread.
Mike :wink:
 

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Quote INGROLLER : " I am a photographer and 120 film (or 220) does not have sprocket holes. "
 

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Hmm that's from Wikipedia and it does seem to show perfs on one edge of modern 120 film. I've recently looked at quite a bit of of 120/220 film which doesn't have perfs. Also look at the caption under the image on this page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_format_(film)

That being said, the image posted above showing 120 with perfs. Have a think about that and the mystery device and how they'd interact.

Still trying to solve this
 

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jeff of pa said:
Is there such a thing as a 15 Minute Egg ?
Being a cook/chef for 30+yrs.i never heard of egg being used in a recipe(for 15-min.) as a 3min.egg (alone) would be,like soft boil+,a boiled egg for 15min.would be like rubber,but i got a set of historic/anceint recipe books i'll take a look!thanks for listening...
 

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