Woodworking equipment Question: Proper Bandsaw

Limitool

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Hi folks.... I'm inquiring for help / advise from some on this site that may have some knowledge in what I'm wanting to do. I'm wanting to purchase the proper vertical band saw dedicated to doing a single task 95% of the time only. And I don't want it to struggle to do so. I'd also like to do this with an auto-feeder also. Here's what I'd like it to easily do. I want to set it up to cut 3/8" thick panels from 2 x 4 stock. In other words I want to cut 3/8" thick stock from the 3-1/2" face of a 2 x 4 giving me a thin wide panel. The longest piece of 2 x 4 stock would be about 40" down to 17".

I'm looking at the Laguna 18BX 3HP Bandsaw now (see link below). I've written the company and a Nashville dealer but no response yet. I truly don't know if a 1HP or a 5HP saw is required...? I also don't know if a 1/4HP, 1/2HP or a 1HP auto-feeder would be required to handle this setup...? If this saw would work and I needed a 1HP auto-feeder it would total about $3,500 +/- a little. I don't want to overkill it and I surely don't want to come in under powered either. I'm thinking a resaw blade would handle it easier also. And that finished cut surface would be ok also. Anybody have any opinions or experience to draw from PLEASE? Thanks, Brad

https://lagunatools.com/classic-machinery/bandsaws/18bx-bandsaw/
 

Charlie P. (NY)

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Ripping pine you could get by with the 1 Hp. Ripping laminates or hardwoods - the 1.75 or 2 Hp would be better.

Auto-feed I never played with so I can't help.


PS - my Father-in-law was a cabinetmaker and I helped in the shop when I was first married. Hated the band saw (his was ancient and had no guards or blade covers).
 

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pa plateau hiker

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I know nothing about auto feed on a bandsaw. A few years ago I bought a Grizzly model GO555LX bandsaw. It has a 1hp motor and I use it only for resawing. It sawed a 6" peach branch with no problem. I just took my time and didn't rush trying to get it cut. A 1hp motor would be more then enough for a 2x4.
 

Gambrinus

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I would recommend using the 1-1/4" 1 TPI blade for resawing and the 3 hp motor, I say this having used this type saw only it was a much older saw and as the old saying goes "they don't make em like they used to" applies here, so a 5 hp might be better. But that also would depend on if you are using this for production everyday or just occasional?

I would also want the power feed it will make a smoother cut because there is a pause when you shift hands while feeding the board and to reduce fatigue. At the very least I would get some type of roller to keep the material up against the fence. Something like this.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/pro...G0GlMrc-hegcBkFmcotQ7FRTQf2W_I0gaAjziEALw_wcB
 

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Rookster

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I've got a Grizzly 14" with a 1 hp and it's great for odd jobs. I use a 3/8 "blade most times but I keep a 1/2" handy. Good luck.
 

Sthutch

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Hi,
I have a Grizzly 14" G0555 w/ 1hp motor. It works great, but begins to labor when I rip stock over 3-1/2". I use a 1/2" blade w/ 3 Tpi. I have ripped quite a few 2x4s on edge with it, but am quite selective of them. White pine is a breeze, spruce and fur are tougher. I try to stay away from the heavier/dense ones as they really give my saw a workout. Though it could be the blade. The saw is rated for up to a 3/4" one, but it haven't got around to buying one yet. From my understanding you want as wide a blade as you can get in order to help keep the blade from wandering. 1hp may just not have the power to do that.

I also have a auto feeder similar to the Baby Grizzly. I have not used them together, but the feeder is awesome! I use it on a horizontal router table and it really makes a difference! Definitely worth the money. With the correct hp and blade combo it will work great.

Good luck!
 

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Limitool

Limitool

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I would recommend using the 1-1/4" 1 TPI blade for resawing and the 3 hp motor, I say this having used this type saw only it was a much older saw and as the old saying goes "they don't make em like they used to" applies here, so a 5 hp might be better. But that also would depend on if you are using this for production everyday or just occasional?

I would also want the power feed it will make a smoother cut because there is a pause when you shift hands while feeding the board and to reduce fatigue. At the very least I would get some type of roller to keep the material up against the fence. Something like this.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/pro...G0GlMrc-hegcBkFmcotQ7FRTQf2W_I0gaAjziEALw_wcB

It would be asked to cut 34' to 340' of material daily. 95% of time just cutting a thin 3/8" panel off the wide side of 2 x 4 stock. I'm kind of convinced a resaw blade of 1-1/4" would be best also.
 

sawmill man

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Like others say 1 inch or 1-1/4 is best and if you are going to do it alot just go for the 5 hp. i used to do the same basic ripping in some pallet production. auto feeders i know nothing about but would like to . seems bigger would be better also. we hand run everything and you could not bog down the 5 hp ,but it was all poplar , and some pine.
 

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sawmill man

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saw555.PNG this is what we ran for straight line ripping very old but bullet proof, you can still find them at sales for less than 1,000 dollars. i think there called crescent brand. probably late 1800s early 1900s lol.
 

Duckshot

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It would be asked to cut 34' to 340' of material daily. 95% of time just cutting a thin 3/8" panel off the wide side of 2 x 4 stock. I'm kind of convinced a resaw blade of 1-1/4" would be best also.

I'm really not familiar with today's power tools but when I was in my teens I worked for a lumberyard with a Wirlwind crosscut saw and a large resaw. I never was trained on the resaw but they used it to rip 2x10" down to 1x10" at a feed rate of about a foot a second. It had large teeth, maybe 5 points per a foot, and the cut was smooth enough for pallets.Probably smooth enough for a the inside of a toy box.

I know that with handsaws you want at least three teeth on the stock at all times. Keeps the teeth from binding.
 

chub

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I bought an oldish (1980s) INCA bandsaw a while back from a guy who was moving into a retirement home. Its about 1.5hp. It was a real bargain. It would do what you are talking about.

Is there a reason you are going with a bandsaw? Have you considered a table saw? In my experience when the blade dulls on a bandsaw it can wander a bit. Bandsaws tend to take a little more setting up. Bandsaw blades are normally ordered. Tablesaw blades are at every hardware. I normally rip with the table saw. Bandsaw is good for curves.

Im sure you know all of this already .

Chub
 

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Limitool

Limitool

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16" Dual Conveyor Horizontal Resaw Bandsaw | Grizzly Industrial
Probably overkill, but just for kicks check this out. We had two of these in mill I spent twelve years at.

Yep... That's an overkill kenstein! Nice try but your out of my league with that. Maybe you can start me a "Go Fund me Page"...???? :laughing7:

Sawmill man.... Hand running is exactly what I want to free up. Chub asks... "Why not a table saw?" Well I got 4 table saws but their all 10". So I really don't have one that's up to the task. Does anyone think a table saw with a feeder would be better and cheaper. And Chub I don't mind ordering 2-3 band saw blades to have on hand. I just thought and believe a band saw with it's thinner blade, proper HP and a quality feeder would do this job much easier than a table saw. Well let's take about table saws doing this job and debate. (cutting a 3/8" thick panel from the 3-1/2" face of 2 x 4 stock)

ANYBODY...????
 

BillA

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an interesting task, caused me to go measure my 10 in table saw, about 3 in.
I have a similar project in carey, cutting thin pieces off of chainsaw cut 3x12 blocks.
I presume your cut pieces will be subsequently surfaced in some manner, how critical is their flatness
I can rip straighter with a circular saw than a bandsaw, yes it is related to uniform feed pressure without which the bandsaw blade will shift.
How about a used rip saw of some type

hey kenstein, nice resaw

Bill
 

boogeyman

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Ripping pine you could get by with the 1 Hp. Ripping laminates or hardwoods - the 1.75 or 2 Hp would be better.Auto-feed I never played with so I can't help.PS - my Father-in-law was a cabinetmaker and I helped in the shop when I was first married. Hated the band saw (his was ancient and had no guards or blade covers).
Ya don't need no stinkin guards or covers, they just get in the way & slow ya down!Signed,Stumpy
 

boogeyman

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Ya don't need no stinkin guards or covers, they just get in the way & slow ya down!Signed,Stumpy
Not sure if this will help or not. Never saw a self feeder on a wood band saw. But I did see an old boy who drilled a couple holes in the sides of his table to pass a rod and had a small pulley on the end. Didn't get to see his sled but he had a cable on it that ran out the back & over the pulley & down. Described cast lead weights(he made) like an old freight scale. His other mod was to add a 5 slot pulley on the motor shaft. I copied that and it worked great! Have you looked at used saws? Bought one of mine at the swap meet for around 1/8th of what it'd cost new. Almost forgot he had a bend on the end of the shaft so the pulley cleared the table. Let us know how it goes!
 

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Limitool

Limitool

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an interesting task, caused me to go measure my 10 in table saw, about 3 in.
I have a similar project in carey, cutting thin pieces off of chainsaw cut 3x12 blocks.
I presume your cut pieces will be subsequently surfaced in some manner, how critical is their flatness
I can rip straighter with a circular saw than a bandsaw, yes it is related to uniform feed pressure without which the bandsaw blade will shift.
How about a used rip saw of some type

hey kenstein, nice resaw

Bill

That's why I was thinking a 1-1/4" or more resaw blade on a band saw. I'm thinking / hoping that with the correct HP and blade combo it would slice through very easily then the right feeder HP and speed. Maybe I'm just dreaming to much but I'd like to believe it could be done (easily). I have to run a board through 2 times on the the 10" table saw. I've done about 12,000 of them now and I'm SICK AND TIRED of this method. Yea guards and covers just get in the damn way. But I do admit you had better be a "table saw PRO" to do what I do. And even now I admit I've been pushing my luck thus far. This is why I'm seeking a quicker safer method to do this operation. I would ask NOBODY to do it for me.

I'm going to do a mass 100 toy box built at once hopefully starting in late Jan. And I want to do it in under 14 days (10 days is secret goal). I want to try something.... stay tuned!!!!
 

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BillA

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based on what I was doing 50+ tears ago . . . .
You might look for a used arbor gang rip saw, I think that is the proper name. We used to rip 2-4 truck/trailers of 2x4 studs per month, all ways (we even cut a 1x3 from the side - wooden bed frame co). I have no idea where you might find an old/cheap used one, and your helper tailing-off will be moving quickly.

Bill
 

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