Wow 1787 new jersey copper just found wondering how to clean

[chark21798]

Just found my second new jersey 1787 copper. Thank you farm gods that i didn't hit this one with shovel. Its sooooo pretty but was found in sandy soil, back needs cleaning front great, came out of ground just like this. i wasn't sure if the back will clean up (oil) or what. I dont want to reck it. thanks for all your help. Sorry was found in a Jersey field weeds were 4 foot tall just a few bare spots no weeds. !st signal i dug and almost had a heart attack when i seen what it was. I prayed and prayed please let me have missed with shovel this time. Farm gods came thru no mintmarks added by me. Dont know much about these so any information would b great. Thanks to all and HH . Mark Sorry i thought i down sized these picts but didnt work. Hope i fixed picts. Does anyone know what type of grade this would go. Do i need to send away for grade never done that before any info would b appreciated

 

[mikesand]

Congrats on a great find! Where abouts are you in south jersey? I lived in the absecon area for a few years, but didn't get into the hobby( buy a detector) until I moved up to the levittown, pa area. I would love to have a chance to hunt in south jersey/pine barrens. BTW, do not clean it until you talk to Don
HH
mikesand

 

[Brian(upstateNY-Central Fla.)]

Very nice

 

[hogge]

What a BEAUTY!!! Well struck. Well centered. Great Colonial! Congrats...Hogge

 

[Silver Searcher]

Great coin, and if its valuable DON'T clean it at all.

I would myself agree with the others who say, DON'T clean it. Iron and copper/bronze are the hardest items to clean, and removing the patina from copper/bronze really destroys the value of a coin or artifact. I would myself not use any sort of hard brush on it what so ever, not a brass brush either. Like some say, soap and water and a very soft toothbrush. Then let it dry and seal it. One of the best ways to seal the coin is use microcrystal wax, warming the coin, putting it into melted wax and patting the excess wax off. I am now using instead of the pure microcrystal wax a product that is used for many items by many musea (museums) called Renaissance Micro-crystal wax polish. It works just great.

I would only be concerned with the bright green oxide on the one side of the coin. If it comes off with a soft brushing with the toothpaste OK, otherwise just seal the coin from moisture and oxygen and it should be good. Just check on the green oxide every once in a while.

Nice looking Copper I'm with Woody on this one, just seal it...Remember Patina is just corrosian, if you leave it, as it is, it might dry out and flake

This site might give you a few tips, should you decide to clean it

http://metaldetectingworld.com/cleaning_coin_p12_peroxide.shtml

SS

 

[zaxfire69]

That thing looks good just like that. You don't want to clean it much at all. Heck I can make out the details from the pictures. It looks killer to me.

 

[CMDiamonddawg]

Very cool NJ and the patina is worth not fooling around with . I found two Jersey's and left them uncleaned except for a distilled water bath in get the dirt off . See them in my Best Finds forum ..Best dug Copper by Kirk PA if you like . They are holding up great months later . 8) Nice looking colonial NJ copper the way it was dug . Congrats CMD

 

[pepperj]

Very nice coin, congrat's on the find.

 

[Kirk PA]

I love it when the occasional NJ copper pops out of the PA ground. I have 2 in my collection and hope to dig many more before I leave this world. I wouldn't do anything else to that coin. It is good as is.

Kirk

 

[Steve in PA]

That's a really nice dug NJ, I would not clean it except maybe with a soft dry toothbrush and/or toothpick on the front. I would not touch the back, and whatever you do, do not use tap water on it.

 

[chark21798]

Wow thanks all this is my second jersey copper other great shape two, But i hit it with my shovel. Sick for months. I heard you need to seal it? with wax. I have never done that, does it work good. I need to do something to keep in this shape. Going back to same field this weekend. Hope i dig some more to share with the class. Thanks again Mark

 

[Iron Patch]

Wow thanks all this is my second jersey copper other great shape two, But i hit it with my shovel. Sick for months. I heard you need to seal it? with wax. I have never done that, does it work good. I need to do something to keep in this shape. Going back to same field this weekend. Hope i dig some more to share with the class. Thanks again Mark

You should seal a couple of other similar type coins to see if you will like the look. If it was mine, as I said I would thin out the corrosion on the shield side, and apart from that just put it in a 2x2. Depending on what method you use, the more dirt/crud left on before sealing make the coin look worse than it is dry. I'd bet a pretty large bet you could put that straight in a holder and it wouldn't look any different 10 years from now..... mine don't. Plus... the process is so slow (years) you'd never have to worry about it getting out of hand, and even if it did, the type of corrosion would not be the hard crap and 1 minute in peroxide would put it right back to the current condition. That is all just common sense. I really reccommend you play with the wax on other similar coins to make sure you know what you're getting. I have used wax for a very long time but do not use it on coins, and especially ones that look like that. Renaissance wax does seem to sink in, and almost let the surface dry out, or look as if it has, but I don't know if you'll get that nice green patina back. I've actually been meaning to play around with this myself, and if you wait a little while I might do it, and can post some before and after pics.

 

[woody50]

Wow thanks all this is my second jersey copper other great shape two, But i hit it with my shovel. Sick for months. I heard you need to seal it? with wax. I have never done that, does it work good. I need to do something to keep in this shape. Going back to same field this weekend. Hope i dig some more to share with the class. Thanks again Mark

You should seal a couple of other similar type coins to see if you will like the look. If it was mine, as I said I would thin out the corrosion on the shield side, and apart from that just put it in a 2x2. Depending on what method you use, the more dirt/crud left on before sealing make the coin look worse than it is dry. I'd bet a pretty large bet you could put that straight in a holder and it wouldn't look any different 10 years from now..... mine don't. Plus... the process is so slow (years) you'd never have to worry about it getting out of hand, and even if it did, the type of corrosion would not be the hard crap and 1 minute in peroxide would put it right back to the current condition. That is all just common sense. I really reccommend you play with the wax on other similar coins to make sure you know what you're getting. I have used wax for a very long time but do not use it on coins, and especially ones that look like that. Renaissance wax does seem to sink in, and almost let the surface dry out, or look as if it has, but I don't know if you'll get that nice green patina back. I've actually been meaning to play around with this myself, and if you wait a little while I might do it, and can post some before and after pics.

Sounds OK Iron Patch. When you say you have used wax for years, which wax? Was that microcrystal wax? It is much different than candle wax. I have quite a bit of experience with it and after I get it waxed (hot) I pat it off to get rid of the excess wax. They remain good for me anyway.

I have only used the Renaissance wax for a short time now, but its showing to be good for almost everything, maybe that's why the museums use it for many objects. I have tried it on coins and relics and it does not harm them in any way, and it makes the object look cleaner and nicer.

Maybe its the different climate Iron Patch. You see we find coins here in Holland that have laid in or close to the water level (about 50cm) for centuries. They do leach out a bit making a halo and easy to find, but when we remove them from the mud (very little oxygen for centuries) they start to decay immediately. We usually put stuff into a jar or something covered with water from the same soil, or some people (Bio Professor for instance) spray the coins with oil to keep the oxygen away from the object.

Really, finding something very deep here in soil without any sort of oxygen, well, if you don't protect it, it can be gone before you get home (a figure of speech, but almost true). That is why we need to wax or otherwise protect objects. Also our humidity is very high here, so have to seal them.

 

[Iron Patch]

Wow thanks all this is my second jersey copper other great shape two, But i hit it with my shovel. Sick for months. I heard you need to seal it? with wax. I have never done that, does it work good. I need to do something to keep in this shape. Going back to same field this weekend. Hope i dig some more to share with the class. Thanks again Mark

You should seal a couple of other similar type coins to see if you will like the look. If it was mine, as I said I would thin out the corrosion on the shield side, and apart from that just put it in a 2x2. Depending on what method you use, the more dirt/crud left on before sealing make the coin look worse than it is dry. I'd bet a pretty large bet you could put that straight in a holder and it wouldn't look any different 10 years from now..... mine don't. Plus... the process is so slow (years) you'd never have to worry about it getting out of hand, and even if it did, the type of corrosion would not be the hard crap and 1 minute in peroxide would put it right back to the current condition. That is all just common sense. I really reccommend you play with the wax on other similar coins to make sure you know what you're getting. I have used wax for a very long time but do not use it on coins, and especially ones that look like that. Renaissance wax does seem to sink in, and almost let the surface dry out, or look as if it has, but I don't know if you'll get that nice green patina back. I've actually been meaning to play around with this myself, and if you wait a little while I might do it, and can post some before and after pics.

Sounds OK Iron Patch. When you say you have used wax for years, which wax? Was that microcrystal wax? It is much different than candle wax. I have quite a bit of experience with it and after I get it waxed (hot) I pat it off to get rid of the excess wax. They remain good for me anyway.

I have only used the Renaissance wax for a short time now, but its showing to be good for almost everything, maybe that's why the museums use it for many objects. I have tried it on coins and relics and it does not harm them in any way, and it makes the object look cleaner and nicer.

Maybe its the different climate Iron Patch. You see we find coins here in Holland that have laid in or close to the water level (about 50cm) for centuries. They do leach out a bit making a halo and easy to find, but when we remove them from the mud (very little oxygen for centuries) they start to decay immediately. We usually put stuff into a jar or something covered with water from the same soil, or some people (Bio Professor for instance) spray the coins with oil to keep the oxygen away from the object.

Really, finding something very deep here in soil without any sort of oxygen, well, if you don't protect it, it can be gone before you get home (a figure of speech, but almost true). That is why we need to wax or otherwise protect objects. Also our humidity is very high here, so have to seal them.

I guess I'll address you in the reverse order of your post. Digging finds in the clay that were never really exposed to the oxygen is MUCH different than hunting the typical farm field here. In fact, I have only screwed up 2 buttons in my life from cleaning (and I have done a huge amount) and one was actually very deep from bulldozed ground. The button was fine except for one spot of corrosion, so me not thinking twice about cleaning it, did, and the non oxygen factor smoked it in seconds. My usual buttons can take way more. (but you still have to make the right call whether to clean, and if so, how)

What I wax is my buttons, the ones that have lots of gilt or silver, or have a patina that is into the metal, not like the coin shown above. I used to use a certain floor wax and it worked great but the fumes were probably a bad thing so I stopped. (was heating it) I have played with Renaissance wax a little but it does not provide the finish I want on my buttons so I probably will save it for something else. It could be useful on iron being it seems to really absorb well, but I'm dead set against using it on any green patina, at least I am at the moment. I would have to see what it looks like once it dries but I suspect it will not look as good. I have many coins with the same type of green patina and they don't change year after year and I'm pretty sure they wont..... and trust me, I wouldn't risk my better finds. I think in a bit I'll grab a coin with a similar patina and wax it, and post the before and after. People on this forum strip way too much patina! I know because I used to do it to, and took me a long time to figure out sometimes less is more... leaving it green.

 

[woody50]

I guess I'll address you in the reverse order of your post. Digging finds in the clay that were never really exposed to the oxygen is MUCH different than hunting the typical farm field here. In fact, I have only screwed up 2 buttons in my life from cleaning (and I have done a huge amount) and one was actually very deep from bulldozed ground. The button was fine except for one spot of corrosion, so me not thinking twice about cleaning it, did, and the non oxygen factor smoked it in seconds. My usual buttons can take way more. (but you still have to make the right call whether to clean, and if so, how)

What I wax is my buttons, the ones that have lots of gilt or silver, or have a patina that is into the metal, not like the coin shown above. I used to use a certain floor wax and it worked great but the fumes were probably a bad thing so I stopped. (was heating it) I have played with Renaissance wax a little but it does not provide the finish I want on my buttons so I probably will save it for something else. It could be useful on iron being it seems to really absorb well, but I'm dead set against using it on any green patina, at least I am at the moment. I would have to see what it looks like once it dries but I suspect it will not look as good. I have many coins with the same type of green patina and they don't change year after year and I'm pretty sure they wont..... and trust me, I wouldn't risk my better finds. I think in a bit I'll grab a coin with a similar patina and wax it, and post the before and after. People on this forum strip way too much patina! I know because I used to do it to, and took me a long time to figure out sometimes less is more... leaving it green.

I agree with you very much. Especially the leave it alone if it is stable, and not changing. Its of course like you know if its an active bronze disease, you just got to get rid of that before the whole object is gone. Its not too hard to remove the disease (chemical disease) but it does leave holes in coins/artifacts. And after physically removing the bright green part you should treat it with some chemicals. I have been lucky not to have found many with an real active disease so far.

Yes people do not understand about a patina, its just like rust. Rust forms a thick layer on iron and then if the iron is not disturbed in the ground it will last a very long time. A patina protects a coin, you should never remove it. I think a patina makes a coin / object look much nicer, although you do have beautiful patina's and horrible ones. DON'T remove a patina is the way to go. Its more valuable also with a patina.

You sure have experience with buttons, great. I never find very few 'keeper' buttons so don't have much problem with them. You do have good ideas about how to preserve artifacts/coins. Thanks for your explanation.

 

[Bum Luck]

I have been hunting for 20 years now,,,and a coin like that!!! no chemicals!!! Take a wood block,small brads,,,make a circle the diameter of the coin to hold it in place,,,,pick up a small brass brush at your local hardware store and gently brush it! I have found Sheild Nickels and done this to them,you would not have beleived they came out of the ground,,,the brush is softer than the coin,be carefull not to go to far as some collectors love that green patina!!

Brass is harder than copper, not softer.

 

[sscindercoop]

Sweet

 

[davesx]

It looks great as it is, I would advise you to leave it.
Dave.

 

[fieldslayer]

WAY TO GO CHARK !!! Sounds like you sure worked for it in that high vegetation , but a killer Jersey with that much relief is rare! I would resist cleaning also ; you can always do it at some later date when you feel more confident. Take it from me , it really hurts to ruin them! - fieldslayer

 

[West Jersey Detecting]

Hey Mark!

Glad to see you finally got a photo good enough to post! That coin is such a beauty. Once again congratulations!

As I told you in my email, the copper is the very common variety 64-t, but I would be thrilled with any NJ Copper. If you ask me, yours is every bit as pretty as the one pictured:

Sorry I couldn't make it out to meet you this morning. I have a hectic schedule through the middle of September.

 

[Tank69]

wow that copper turned out stunning congrats thats a real sweet find

8)Tank