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Cast brass thing and two other brass things ?

Roger Mn.

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Dug the big brass thing from under a downed tree in the woods. It's 15 1/2 inches long and weights 5 pounds on the bathroom scale.
The other two brass things are 3 1/2 inches long and 7/8 wide. I took one apart to see what was inside it. These were found a few feet away.
 

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This gasket was there also. So I'm thinking 4 cylinder motor for some kind of farm machinery or tractor.
It's 7 1/2 x 18 1/2 inches.
 

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Thanks every one for your help and Ideas on this. It might get solved yet.
roger
 
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Old Dog said:
If not injectors ...
maybe glow plugs from a diesel engine.
Now that I looked these over and noticed the little spring might have asbestos on it and looks burnt that these are glow plugs.
Thanks Old Dog.
 

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I will go along with the cast brass thing being a kick start gear lever even though I cant find a positive match.
Thanks for everyones help.
roger
 
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They definitely aren't glow plugs. Look at pics of them online, and these have no electrical ability (glow plugs are electric). I believe they may have been threaded into an engine combustion chamber though... compression release valves is more likely.
 
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cheese said:
They definitely aren't glow plugs. Look at pics of them on line, and these have no electrical ability (glow plugs are electric). I believe they may have been threaded into an engine combustion chamber though... compression release valves is more likely.
I haven't seen any like these on line. These act like the heating element weather for heating diesel fuel or heating water in a diesel engine.
The end sticking out the top does not have a hole in it so it could only have had an electric wire attached from a battery for heat. I do not think this to be for ignition.
No hole to release combustion. Glow plugs are also reffered to as heat plugs. Most likely 2 in case one failed.
roger
 
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They definitely aren't glo-plugs, I'm almost 100% sure they are needle valves. I haven't found a match yet, but I'll keep looking.
 
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The end sticking out the top has no way of being insulated from the rest of it. Glow plugs have a solid heating element. Even the old ones. The top piece has a hook in it so that it can be pulled. When it is pulled, it lifts the needle out of the orifice and allows the pressure inside whatever it was screwed into to vent. The spring keeps the needle pushed down into the orifice/seat the rest of the time. I believe it is a compression release. The old cars from the beginning of the 20th century had to be started by hand. Some had a compression release pedal that would activate relief valves in the head, allowing the person starting it to turn the engine more easily (maybe not easily, but easily in comparison to one without compression release). They still use this concept on larger chainsaws with engines too big to start by hand. They don't release ALL the compression (the engine would never start), but the orifice is the proper size to allow a quick bleed down of compression while turning slow, but not enough to keep it from starting once the cranking rpm picked up.

Been a vehicle mechanic for years, then switched to small engines, then started my own shop and have been running it for the past 13 years. Just saying that so you know I am not just making a wild guess.
 
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cheese said:
The end sticking out the top has no way of being insulated from the rest of it. Glow plugs have a solid heating element. Even the old ones. The top piece has a hook in it so that it can be pulled. When it is pulled, it lifts the needle out of the orifice and allows the pressure inside whatever it was screwed into to vent. The spring keeps the needle pushed down into the orifice/seat the rest of the time. I believe it is a compression release. The old cars from the beginning of the 20th century had to be started by hand. Some had a compression release pedal that would activate relief valves in the head, allowing the person starting it to turn the engine more easily (maybe not easily, but easily in comparison to one without compression release). They still use this concept on larger chainsaws with engines too big to start by hand. They don't release ALL the compression (the engine would never start), but the orifice is the proper size to allow a quick bleed down of compression while turning slow, but not enough to keep it from starting once the cranking rpm picked up.

Been a vehicle mechanic for years, then switched to small engines, then started my own shop and have been running it for the past 13 years. Just saying that so you know I am not just making a wild guess.
I can see this being a compression release valve. In the top fitting were the wire comes out there is enough room for pressure to escape. Thanks cheese for taking the time to explain this.
roger
 
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