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Detecting on the beach

point2make

Tenderfoot
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I use an F2.....is there a way to reduce the false signals? Sometimes there are so many that I get frustrated and my detecting sessions end early.
 
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First, Welcome to the Tnet forum.

You can turn down the sensitivity but his won't help much on the wet sand. For the wet stuff you should get a Excal, Sov GT, a CZ-21 or Tiger Shark. Or you can go with a pulse detector which would be very deep but lack good disc. Sorry about your F-2, but that is like bringing a Toyota to NASC. It just can't handle the salt and black sand together.
 
Sandman is correct, the problem your experiencing is your detector is seeing the minerals in the salt and giving you false signals...

Turning the sensitivity way down will help, but you will lose a lot of the depth and gold sinks fast in sand. Basically what your doing is the same as Teeing Off with a putter on a golf course.........If your going to hunt the wet sand, water or water's edge you will need to pick up a salt water detector.
 
All of the above is correct. That's the curse of a single frequency detector. Most don't handle wet salt sand well at all.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone I appreciate the tips. I know I will have to upgrade, especially for ocean beach hunting, but will the F2 act the same at fresh water beaches?
 
point2make said:
Thanks for the responses everyone I appreciate the tips. I know I will have to upgrade, especially for ocean beach hunting, but will the F2 act the same at fresh water beaches?

No, no salt minerals, just junk and rusty iron to worry about...
 
Sandman said:
First, Welcome to the Tnet forum.

You can turn down the sensitivity but his won't help much on the wet sand. For the wet stuff you should get a Excal, Sov GT, a CZ-21 or Tiger Shark. Or you can go with a pulse detector which would be very deep but lack good disc. Sorry about your F-2, but that is like bringing a Toyota to NASC. It just can't handle the salt and black sand together.
Sandman...........Is there a reason why the Whites Beach Hunter ID or 300........ was left out ..?
 
Keppy, I too wondered why I left out the BHID 300. It just slipped my mind. :icon_scratch: It is a decent beach detector for above water and the only reason I don't llke it in the water is because I need to hold down the coil as it is not "neutral-buoyant."

I didn't list the AT PRO because I am not at the sea shore anymore to play with mine in the saltwater and have to go by Max's advice which I trust.
 
Sandman said:
Keppy, I too wondered why I left out the BHID 300. It just slipped my mind. :icon_scratch: It is a decent beach detector for above water and the only reason I don't llke it in the water is because I need to hold down the coil as it is not "neutral-buoyant."

I didn't list the AT PRO because I am not at the sea shore anymore to play with mine in the saltwater and have to go by Max's advice which I trust.
My AT Pro i just am not happy with it................. Even all i do is fresh water.......... I am looking at the..... Tiger Shark ...or the BHID 300 .........
 
Yes, as all the above said, salts are a metal compound, and when it is wet, it appears to the detector as a metal, similar as a hot rock or black sands. When salt is dry it does not ring off, so you could search the dry sand, and of course fresh water. Even a dedicated saltwater detector will pick up saltwater, but will ground balance it out. It does this when a wave rolls over the coil or when diving deep with the detector on, it will drive you nuts until you hit the bottom. Once the coil is on the bottom, it is stable, but as I said a wave can make it go off in shallow water, sometimes you can get used to the sound and rythum, but it can be a pain. But they dont have the constant chatter and falsing that a non saltwater MD does.
 
I have a Fisher F4 have the same issue but water line wet sand no problem. I am thinking of getting a water detector
 

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