With the advice and suggestions from Jordan, OKBASSPRO and Gold Hog and other forum members here. This is what we did....
50 ' of 1/4" o.d. copper
Used a dole pineapple can to make the inner coil, then a piece of 4" pvc to make the outer coil. One piece of copper.
Used 1/4" od compression unions for copper ends so that I can use ice maker lines to move the mixing can around till I decide to mount it.
Used 3/4" GH (garden hose) by 1/4" od compression fittings at the pump. With two splitters. Again to be able to use ice maker lines to move the mixer around.
Made bulk head fittings with o rings
1/4" compression by 1/4" MIP into 1/4" Fm bushing by 1/2" MIP. Then oring. Thru lid of can. Then another 0ring, then I used standard faucet nuts and washers to secure to can lid for ice maker lines.
I have one IM line from pump TO Heat Exchanger. One line FROM Heat Exchanger to mixer can. One line (cold water) FROM pump to mixer can.
On bottom of mixer can, make similar bulk head connections to be able to attach to the diver hot water supply.
I used an old air line from another project.
I only put the supply in about 15"-18", in the front...so that I can pull it out with ONE yank !
Took muffler off, then cut it off of header just below welds (engines don't like metal fillings in them).
Used 3/4 copper fittings and pipe. I had to round the muffler pipe with the 3/4" copper fittings. 1: 3/4" Street 45, 1: 3/4 45 (regular). Pipe was long enough to clear engine and go to end of can about 10" ish or so. Drilled 3/32" holes 1" apart AND staggered around pipe. Put 3/4" cap on end of pipe....If you can't solder then drill pilot hole and use small screw to hold on pipe. I bolted a 1" copper cap in middle of bottom of can to slide pipe into to help keep can centered and have better stability. Drilled about 7 3/16" holes on bottom half of end for exhaust to leave and help trap the heat in the can. Also, insulated can with 1" fiber glass.....sides and ends....I could keep my bare hand on it.