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Marinetex is a little pricey but you can repair a chip in a propeller with the stuff.
 
packerbacker said:
Marinetex is a little pricey but you can repair a chip in a propeller with the stuff.

Is that along the lines of a JBweld type solution? Same general principal but perhaps better stuff?
 
Scoop, Some of the rivets are still covered with the light blue Permatex gasket sealant I used. The White ones are the water weld.
 

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texastee2007 said:
Bigscoop....if you can get the boat up where you can work on it, fill with water and mark the rivets that are leaking. Drill those out and resize hole and re rivet. Do a couple so you don't spend all that time doing all of them...re check and see if the new ones are holding....if they are continue on till you complete the leaky ones...if this works you are good to go. Sometimes folks drag the darn boat everywhere and it messes them up....so they need to be replaced. If you successfully stop it from leaking you will have yourself a real nice boat....again try a couple first what do you have to loose?

That was sort of the original plan but after speaking with several "saltwater" locals they seem to have had experience with this sort of thing and they are pretty much telling me that the replacement rivets don't hold up in the saltwater environment very long. :dontknow:
 
poorhunter78 said:
Scoop, Some of the rivets are still covered with the light blue Permatex gasket sealant I used. The White ones are the water weld.

You just cleaned and roughed up the surface around the rivets and applied the weld? I'm thinking of giving this solution a try first, see what happens and how well it holds up. It's a $50 boat, "kiss" it and use it until it sinks. :laughing7: ("kiss"...keep it super simple.) Still got to come up with a small outboard and a trailer.
 
bigscoop said:
poorhunter78 said:
Scoop, Some of the rivets are still covered with the light blue Permatex gasket sealant I used. The White ones are the water weld.

You just cleaned and roughed up the surface around the rivets and applied the weld? I'm thinking of giving this solution a try first, see what happens and how well it holds up. It's a $50 boat, "kiss" it and use it until it sinks. :laughing7: ("kiss"...keep it super simple.) Still got to come up with a small outboard and a trailer.
A wire brush, or wire wheel on a small hand grinder, That did the job for me.
We put an outboard motor on a jonny once it flexed the back of the boat so bad thought it was gonna tear the back off the boat. I will stick to my trolling motor. Hope this works for Yall! :icon_thumright:
 
Sort of. Marinetex is a white, paste-like material that you mix with MEK for hardening. You can shape it any way you want and then sand it or even grind it. I've heard you could fix a leak in a hot water heater with the stuff. I used it in repairs on a damaged hull on a Boston Whaler. It adheres MUCH better than JB
 
packerbacker said:
Sort of. Marinetex is a white, paste-like material that you mix with MEK for hardening. You can shape it any way you want and then sand it or even grind it. I've heard you could fix a leak in a hot water heater with the stuff. I used it in repairs on a damaged hull on a Boston Whaler. It adheres MUCH better than JB

Sounds good. Going to look into it. Thanks! :thumbsup:
 
texastee2007 said:
bigscoop said:
texastee2007 said:
Bigscoop....if you can get the boat up where you can work on it, fill with water and mark the rivets that are leaking. Drill those out and resize hole and re rivet. Do a couple so you don't spend all that time doing all of them...re check and see if the new ones are holding....if they are continue on till you complete the leaky ones...if this works you are good to go. Sometimes folks drag the darn boat everywhere and it messes them up....so they need to be replaced. If you successfully stop it from leaking you will have yourself a real nice boat....again try a couple first what do you have to loose?

That was sort of the original plan but after speaking with several "saltwater" locals they seem to have had experience with this sort of thing and they are pretty much telling me that the replacement rivets don't hold up in the saltwater environment very long. :dontknow:



My bad on the missing of the salt water part....sorry...say is that boat a little small to be going into the ocean? As a kid we had a large cabin cruzer with an inboard outboard motor that we would only occasionally take out into the Monterey bay in CA...even that may have been foolish. I can not tell you the number of times we saved swamped boats in the San Luis Dam in Los Banos, CA because the lake would get white caps on it when the wind blew.....that little boat would scare the heck out of me in salt water.

I've only been down here since December, right on the river, and I've already got new tools rusting "in the garage" more then a hundred yards away. So I'm learning the hard way just how corrosive all this salt air & salt water can be. That's why I want to make certain I'm going to apply something that stands a chance of holding up. Lived on a lake up north but never experienced any thing like this. Down here, rust and corrosion is always on the prowl!
 
poorhunter78 said:
bigscoop said:
poorhunter78 said:
Scoop, Some of the rivets are still covered with the light blue Permatex gasket sealant I used. The White ones are the water weld.

You just cleaned and roughed up the surface around the rivets and applied the weld? I'm thinking of giving this solution a try first, see what happens and how well it holds up. It's a $50 boat, "kiss" it and use it until it sinks. :laughing7: ("kiss"...keep it super simple.) Still got to come up with a small outboard and a trailer.
A wire brush, or wire wheel on a small hand grinder, That did the job for me.
We put an outboard motor on a jonny once it flexed the back of the boat so bad thought it was gonna tear the back off the boat. I will stick to my trolling motor. Hope this works for Yall! :icon_thumright:

Yep, going to have to put a new transom plate (laminated marine ply wood) in it, old one is rotted away. Already working on that little job.
 
Took a small chisel and a block of wood today and started knocking off all the old sealer, then I plan on using a wire wheel and then rough emery cloth to prepare the aluminum for the new MarineTex. Going to have to replace a few rivets first though as several of them are loose and nearly ready to come out. This is going to take a lot of, "free time". :laughing7:
 

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Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.
 
poorhunter78 said:
Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.

Could I get you to change out a motor for me in trade for a $1500 set of workout gym equipment? :headbang:
 
TheRandyMan said:
poorhunter78 said:
Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.

Could I get you to change out a motor for me in trade for a $1500 set of workout gym equipment? :headbang:

Poorhunter doesn't need your dust collectors..... We have this item fully covered in another section :laughing9:
 
poorhunter78 said:
Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.

Sounds like a deal! :thumbsup:
 
TheRandyMan said:
poorhunter78 said:
Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.

Could I get you to change out a motor for me in trade for a $1500 set of workout gym equipment? :headbang:
Got a clothes rack already, Sorry.
spartacus53 said:
TheRandyMan said:
poorhunter78 said:
Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.

Could I get you to change out a motor for me in trade for a $1500 set of workout gym equipment? :headbang:

Poorhunter doesn't need your dust collectors..... We have this item fully covered in another section :laughing9:
Well the DUSTER needs to get DUSTING! :tongue3:

bigscoop said:
poorhunter78 said:
Looks like a good start. I got myself into a job, Replacing A rear leaf spring on a 90 1/2 ton ford truck, And changing front pads,rotors. Drop the front fuel tank, change over send unit. Put new tank in. For a $300 porter cable table saw. Looks like brand new, Used 1 time. I think I am by far on the good end.

Sounds like a deal! :thumbsup:
Thanks! Another weapon to occupy my time! ;D
 

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