Isuzu Mechanic Needed- new problems

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Heres a pic of the bolt jammed under the belt down by the crankshaft pulley. I couldnt see it until I removed the pulley.


Its the missing CMP sensor bolt. Here it is blown up you can see the damage. It nicked a few gears as well but I can carefully file down any sharp edges.

This is why I do all the work myself. Too many incompetant mechanics.

Thanks everyone for their help. Im still not finished but I think this is the cause of the entire problem.

The gas tank sensor was unrelated but needed repaired anyway.
Hopefully the new catylytic convertor will be a improvement.

 

[s.c.shooter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Replace the rotor button!

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Replace the rotor button!

probably the points too.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Thanks Blacksheep for sending me the Autozone tip where I found the timing belt diagram.
Thats what I need.
The two top camshaft marks (top 1) are easy to see but the crankshaft marks (bottom 2 ) remain hidden. I have the #1 piston at TDC but I can see by the diagram that the crank pulley is slightly off.
(3) is the water pump alignment marks.



I just got back in town and Im going to try and gunk the bottom of the engine tommorrow hoping to reveal these important TDC marks on the crankshaft pulley..

Im ready to put the belt and exhaust manifold back on and get this thing overwith finally! I need my truck back and this has got to be the problem.

 

[Blacksheep]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Anytime, I use their online guide on occasion when my subscriptions lack certain info. Glad you found it useful.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem SOLVED!

TRUCK IS RUNNING GOOD!!!

I gunked the engine to find the bottom TDC crank marks, lined up the top cam sprocket timing marks, installed a new timing belt ($25), installed the new exhaust manifold from eBay ($88 + $12 shipping; I reused the old exhaust gasket) and the engine runs great!! I havent been out to the expressway yet, but I can tell its much better.

I erased the codes and Ill see if they pop back up. Its so nice to have my truck back.

For those of you that helped me, I thank you. For the person that said it would cost me more to fix than the vehicle is worth, and to give up, let it go and buy another vehicle, I have no comment. It appears the problem was caused by the bolt that fell down and later got caught under the belt causing it to skip a couple cogs. It was a freak accident for sure.This would also cause the CMP trouble code and probably cracked the manifold as well, later causing O2 codes. (The gas sending unit caused the original Isuzu computer code and was unrelated to the timing problem). All this trouble from a 50 cent bolt and a mechanic that wasnt careful!

It appears Karenray08 was correct way back in reply #1 but didnt explain to check the timing marks.
Reply To This Topic #1 Posted Feb 25, 2010, 01:17:43 PM Quote
"Don't know much about these newer cars but in the old days I think the timing would be checked after what you have named
is ok. It could be off slightly."
Ray

Now Im more familiar with trouble codes and my engine so the next time it will be easier to diagnose. Thanks again everyone.

 

[RPG]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

If you want something done right, what do you do?

Glad to see you got it running right.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

If you want something done right, what do you do?

Aint it the truth.

 

[poorhunter78]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Congrats BCH. glad to see yuh got er hummin.

 

[Blacksheep]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem still not solved

Glad you got through the various issues, sometimes the combination of small problems can dog you until you tackle each issue individually as you did. Nice job BCH.

(That bolt must have made ahelluva racket when it first dropped.)

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem SOLVED

Maybe the mechanic forgot to tighten it but it lay harmlessly in the bottom for the most part. It came from the CMP sensor between the two camshaft pulleys. When I first bought the truck, I replaced it when I noticed the sensor loose and bolt missing. I always suspected it lay in the bottom. Apparently one day the belt caught it and it skipped a notch. It appears to have rode around.

I can repair anything. I just cant do it fast enough to make a profession of it.

 

[sniffer]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem SOLVED

at least the wheels are turning faster than they were. LOL

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem SOLVED

at least the wheels are turning faster than they were. LOL

Oh yea its running great. It actually has more power than it ever did with the new catylytic convertor. Funny thing now I have PO401 EGR flow insufficient trouble code. Should be easy to fix.

 

[Excavator]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem SOLVED

Good job! Glad to see you got it going. Looks like it was well worth the effort to keep it going.

Little doubt that hundreds of vehicles get scrapped every day for lesser problems that nobody wants to troubleshoot and fix. Others get condemned when simple problems are diagnosed as major failures. I've seen quite a few like that, for the mechanically inclined those are like finding gold. If we just had a detector to find them.

Just think, if you had kept driving, it probably would have bent some valve$.

 

[EDDE]

Re: Isuzu Mechanic Needed- problem SOLVED

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

This may seem like a never ending saga but that is often the case with used vehicles. The truck is running good and it has more power than ever, gas gauge is working, but I have trouble codes. The gas mileage appears bad and I would like to fix it right.

As you can see, its a good looking vehicle and I dont mind putting a few more new parts into it to make it better.

The first trouble code to come up was EGR, shortly after CMP came back, and now I have O2 codes. Here is the printout from my scanner. Any suggestions?

Control Module
$10 SAE J1850 VPW
Stored Codes
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

 

[Blacksheep]

This may seem like a never ending saga but that is often the case with used vehicles. The truck is running good and it has more power than ever, gas gauge is working, but I have trouble codes. The gas mileage appears bad and I would like to fix it right.

As you can see, its a good looking vehicle and I dont mind putting a few more new parts into it to make it better.

The first trouble code to come up was EGR, shortly after CMP came back, and now I have O2 codes. Here is the printout from my scanner. Any suggestions?

Control Module
$10 SAE J1850 VPW
Stored Codes
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

Can you condense what you have already done into a short list? (parts inspected/replaced etc) Then we can look into this a little deeper.

EDIT: In reference to the cam sensor, check the type of ignition system you have, it may be something as simple as setting the air gap)

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Can you condense what you have already done into a short list? (parts inspected/replaced etc) Then we can look into this a little deeper.

EDIT: In reference to the cam sensor, check the type of ignition system you have, it may be something as simple as setting the air gap)

Yea good idea. I can condense it.

Someone suggested a while back that I clean the EGR valve ports and after reading up on it, it needs cleaned every 30,000 miles so Im sure it needs it. So thats my next project. Heres a great link on how to do it. http://www.icess.ucsb.edu/~greg/rodeo/egr.htm

I dont think I have an air gap.

 

[Blacksheep]

Good link for the egr, use caution on what type of cleaner you use and find one that's non-flammable if possible. Also, after cleaning in and around the pintle, give it a quick shot of wd40 or similar lubricant.

 

[Excavator]

When I clean those electronic EGR valves, I submerge the unit up to the level of the mount flange using carb cleaner (keeps the cleaner out of the electronics). Soak, then I use a brass brush, rinse/soak as needed.

Of course then you have to dig the carbon out of the intake passages. A coat hanger and Shop-Vac are handy tools for that.

An anecdote for my previous post:

Last weekend, my son bought a pickup which needed both head gaskets. Doing some final adjustments after assembly, it started a horrible knocking. He was condemning the truck as having tossed a rod bearing, while I suspected the torque converter bolts. It just didn't sound like the rods I've heard in a V8.

He quickly put the tools away and we washed our hands, he was deciding to sell it for less than the purchase price. Before leaving, I took one final dive under the truck. The one torque converter bolt I could reach, was loose. Turns out, all three were loose! Problem solved in three minutes.