Todays rolls of Ikes-Skunked

[mws_1984]

My teller at the bank who knows I was looking for older coins told me a guy had brought in a significant amount of Ike dollars. I only had $40 to deal with at the time. So thats what I got. I cashed in another load of coins on Monday and went to go pick up more Ikes, teller wasn't in. I go today, all she had left was $180 worth. And originally I think she had $630.
Skunked on all $220 I looked thru-was hoping for something with an s mint mark or something that wasn't an Ike. Not my luck this time. All in all not a huge loss I'll keep 2 of them, a BiCentennial 1976 and maybe a 1971, 2 different styles to throw in my collection But definitely not what I was hoping to get out of it. Oh well.

 

[Bigheed]

bummer but don't sweat it, finding a silver ike is pretty hard in the wild, they were only sold as mint orders none were made for circulation that i know, just the sets you could buy referred to as "brown ikes" or "blue ikes" , blue was the more expensive one I think?

As for finding a morgan or a peace dollar mixed in....maybe but the odds are probably as good as finding a Barber half.

I always ask for the big dollars as well...on the off chance that it's in there lurking.

Try to up your CHRing budget a little so that when you go out on the prowl you have at least $500 extra cash (in addition to any boxes you ordered) so that if you find a big cache of teller stuff, or CWR, or sometimes an extra box you can scoop it up without making multiple trips.

 

[mws_1984]

bummer but don't sweat it, finding a silver ike is pretty hard in the wild, they were only sold as mint orders none were made for circulation that i know, just the sets you could buy referred to as "brown ikes" or "blue ikes" , blue was the more expensive one I think?

As for finding a morgan or a peace dollar mixed in....maybe but the odds are probably as good as finding a Barber half.

I always ask for the big dollars as well...on the off chance that it's in there lurking.

Try to up your CHRing budget a little so that when you go out on the prowl you have at least $500 extra cash (in addition to any boxes you ordered) so that if you find a big cache of teller stuff, or CWR, or sometimes an extra box you can scoop it up without making multiple trips.

Yeah I was only hoping there would be others mixed in. The teller told me she had Ike dollars, but that doesn't mean thats what it all was I figured. But thats what it ended up being. Oh well. Glad I got to search something. This was by luck she had them because someone brought them in. I pretty much have $270 to work with but I had it spread around. It's basically also extra spending $ that I have put aside so don't want to have it completely into coins all the time if I can help it.

Thinking of either ordering some nickels or pennies, maybe dimes but not sure if getting 1 box at a time is worth it.. Not sure which is best. I can get more if I did pennies but not quite sure what to invest in.

 

[SilverFace]

too bad on the skunk but that's how it usually goes with Ike's. Also you might want to make sure to check for any '73's. They are all NIFC's and should be worth at least $2 or $3 each and maybe more if they are in really nice condition. I've never found one CRHing (not that I recall anyway) but I would sure consider it to be a keeper unless the coin was in really bad condition.

I'm planning to go back to a bank tomorrow to get several rols of Ike's that a teller had a couple of weeks ago - if they are still available. I'm sure I'll get skunked too but I just can't pass up the chance of finding some real good keepers or maybe even an amazing score.

HH

 

[mws_1984]

too bad on the skunk but that's how it usually goes with Ike's. Also you might want to make sure to check for any '73's. They are all NIFC's and should be worth at least $2 or $3 each and maybe more if they are in really nice condition. I've never found one CRHing (not that I recall anyway) but I would sure consider it to be a keeper unless the coin was in really bad condition.

I'm planning to go back to a bank tomorrow to get several rols of Ike's that a teller had a couple of weeks ago - if they are still available. I'm sure I'll get skunked too but I just can't pass up the chance of finding some real good keepers or maybe even an amazing score.

HH

I think I did come across a 73 in there. What is NIFC anyways? Tried to locate it in the userguide above and do not see it. I also tried another site to see if there are any key dates and it said there was none. I had just bagged them all up to go to the bank. Gonna have to go pick out the 73 now and see if it is worth keeping. I had only kept a 71(first year and a 76 bi centennial to just have for my collection of coins.

 

[mws_1984]

I was able to find it. Had one 1973 d in my load I got. I'm gonna keep that one. Pretty decent condition, just a little bit of crud on it, but it isn't damage to the coin really.

 

[Diver_Down]

too bad on the skunk but that's how it usually goes with Ike's. Also you might want to make sure to check for any '73's. They are all NIFC's and should be worth at least $2 or $3 each and maybe more if they are in really nice condition. I've never found one CRHing (not that I recall anyway) but I would sure consider it to be a keeper unless the coin was in really bad condition.

I'm planning to go back to a bank tomorrow to get several rols of Ike's that a teller had a couple of weeks ago - if they are still available. I'm sure I'll get skunked too but I just can't pass up the chance of finding some real good keepers or maybe even an amazing score.

HH

I think I did come across a 73 in there. What is NIFC anyways? Tried to locate it in the userguide above and do not see it. I also tried another site to see if there are any key dates and it said there was none. I had just bagged them all up to go to the bank. Gonna have to go pick out the 73 now and see if it is worth keeping. I had only kept a 71(first year and a 76 bi centennial to just have for my collection of coins.

If you still have them, then you should look for the '72 Type 2 also known as the King of Ikes. Also, an earlier poster mentioned Blue Ikes and Brown Ikes. Both were 40% silver. A Brown Ike came in a brown packaging (looked like faux wood grain) and was a proof strike. The Blue Ikes came in a blue envelope and was a business, uncirculated strike. The Brown Ike was more expensive. Now, to mess things up more, they both contained an "S" mintmark, but so did the clad proofs.

Happy Hunting!

 

[mws_1984]

too bad on the skunk but that's how it usually goes with Ike's. Also you might want to make sure to check for any '73's. They are all NIFC's and should be worth at least $2 or $3 each and maybe more if they are in really nice condition. I've never found one CRHing (not that I recall anyway) but I would sure consider it to be a keeper unless the coin was in really bad condition.

I'm planning to go back to a bank tomorrow to get several rols of Ike's that a teller had a couple of weeks ago - if they are still available. I'm sure I'll get skunked too but I just can't pass up the chance of finding some real good keepers or maybe even an amazing score.

HH

I think I did come across a 73 in there. What is NIFC anyways? Tried to locate it in the userguide above and do not see it. I also tried another site to see if there are any key dates and it said there was none. I had just bagged them all up to go to the bank. Gonna have to go pick out the 73 now and see if it is worth keeping. I had only kept a 71(first year and a 76 bi centennial to just have for my collection of coins.

If you still have them, then you should look for the '72 Type 2 also known as the King of Ikes. Also, an earlier poster mentioned Blue Ikes and Brown Ikes. Both were 40% silver. A Brown Ike came in a brown packaging (looked like faux wood grain) and was a proof strike. The Blue Ikes came in a blue envelope and was a business, uncirculated strike. The Brown Ike was more expensive. Now, to mess things up more, they both contained an "S" mintmark, but so did the clad proofs.

Happy Hunting!

Already gone thru them all and no S mintmarks. Only D's and ones with no mint marks. I had almost a quarter of them were 72s and another quarter were 76 Bicentennials.
If there is nothing else of note they are going back to the bank today maybe.

 

[SilverFace]

I also keep any 1976 (no mintmark) Type 1's I find also (mintage: 4,019,000). They are easy to notice because as coinflation states they "can be distinguished by the thickness of the lettering" on the reverse. The T 1's have the thicker lettering. I believe these were the coins that were actually minted in 1975. But they still probably have to be at least XF-AU to have much value over face. I've only found a few of those.

Btw, the '73D had a mintage of just 2,000,000

HH

 

[Diver_Down]

I also keep any 1976 (no mintmark) Type 1's I find also (mintage: 4,019,000). They are easy to notice because as coinflation states they "can be distinguished by the thickness of the lettering" on the reverse. The T 1's have the thicker lettering. I believe These were the coins that were actually minted in 1975. But they still probably have to be at least XF-AU to have much value over face. I've only found a few of those.

Btw, the '73D had a mintage of just 2,000,000

HH

Fixed. You are right. I left out the the Type 1's of Bicentennials. And to the original poster, the '72 Philly (no mintmark) is the one with a Type 2 reverse.

 

[mws_1984]

I also keep any 1976 (no mintmark) Type 1's I find also (mintage: 4,019,000). They are easy to notice because as coinflation states they "can be distinguished by the thickness of the lettering" on the reverse. The T 1's have the thicker lettering. I believe These were the coins that were actually minted in 1975. But they still probably have to be at least XF-AU to have much value over face. I've only found a few of those.

Btw, the '73D had a mintage of just 2,000,000

HH

Fixed. You are right. I left out the the Type 1's of Bicentennials. And to the original poster, the '72 Philly (no mintmark) is the one with a Type 2 reverse.

Well don't gotta worry about these now, they are gone to the vault at my dump bank. I had to do 2 dumps. Felt bad because I know they can't go thru the counter and the tellers have to put them in envelopes for their drawer. The manager at one bank told the teller that she would sell them thru the vault.
I ended up keeping a 1973 which is a NIFC and a 1976 bicentennial, I believe no mint mark. No big deal if I missed some stuff. I just like to have a couple of them in my collection. 2 different reverses so I kept 2. Now hopefully can turn this into some dimes.