Dryer on the fritz...no heat

[The Beep Goes On]

Our clothes dryer (Kenmore Elite - electric, 220v) spins, but doesn't blow hot air. I thought I'd check with you guys to see if you think this is something I can fix and save some $$, or if I need to call someone.

Thanks,
TBGO

 

[KHicks]

maybe heating element .. but dont know how much it would be . my parents had thiers go out a few yrs ago but dont remember what it cost to fix

 

[Ray S ECenFL]

Several suggestions can be foud at the below links.

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-531.html

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-129.html


http://www.appliance411.com/archive/7080_kenmore_electric_dryer_not_heating.shtml


http://www.fixya.com/support/t440741-kenmore_dryer_electric
http://www.fixya.com/support/t479015-kenmore_elite_electric_dryer_11084832200

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-381.html


You may need to use your model number to get more specific information, it looks like this
110 20622991 or 110.20622991.

Some parts info can be found at:
http://www.appliance411.com/parts/sears.shtml

 

[SC_hunter]

My guess would also be the heating element. Might be a pain in the butt to fix but worth the time...if you are like me and they say it should take 30 mins...give yourself a weekend..

 

[simonds]

Most likely heating element. I have replaced several for my customers and one for myself.
Easy to do. If you have a parts manual, look at it and it will show you where it is located.
Not to expensive. Go online and find the best prices.

 

[The Beep Goes On]

Thanks everyone! I will start the research for parts. BTW - no smoke, no smell...I had figured it was the element, but didn't know how hard it was to replace. I will look at the links kindly provided by Ray.

Thanks!
TBGO

 

[Copperhead]

And don't forget to unplug it before you go poking around....

Not suggesting you don't know any better....but sometimes folks tend to forget...

A friends relative was killed while attemping to fix his dryer....because he forgot to unplug it...110 is more "forgiving"....220 is likely to kill you...

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Heating element. Easy to fix. Unplug and take off the back panel about 6 screws. If its an older Kenmore model like mine, it should come off with one screw on the top, 2 wires on the bottom. A wire could also have burnt off. Remove the element assembly. If burnt, you will see the coil wire broken somewhere. Also possible to be one of two thermal limiter senser disc thingys that are wired in-line.. You will see when you take it out. I replaced my element many times over the years on my Kenmore. If you dont clean out the lint from the vent and screen, it will burn out again. Cost about $20-$60. I think you can safely attempt it.

 

[The Beep Goes On]

Cool bigcypresshunter. Is what I needed to know. And thanks for the reminder about getting zapped Copperhead

Thanks,
TBGO

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

You should always check the breaker and the outlet first to see if you are getting at least 220 volts.

My Kenmore heating element looked like this.


When it burns out, you will see the heating element wire (looks like a spring) broken. I see this one broken in several places. There are also fuses inline but mine never failed.

 

[bill-USA]

It could be the temperature limit switch on the dryer. Check to make sure all the exhaust hoses are free and clear. If there is a jam in the line anywhere the dryer overheats and the limit switch trips to prevent a fire. In my case it was the screen on the outside of the house that had gotten clogged with lint.

Spend less than $40.00, took the dryer out of it's position, pulled the main power cord from the wall, removed the back, located the switch (top sensor on the heating coil housing in my case), pulled the wires, removed the bolts, put the new switch in position and bolted down, plugged the wires back in, replaced the back, plugged in the main power, and tested the heating. Worked. Pushed back into position and it's still working. Checking the outside filter periodically to prevent it from happening again.

I bought a thermal cutoff kit (at sears parts store) PN 279769 which fits most Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore and Roper brand clothes dryers. Only used the upper limit switch since it was the one blown.

Best of luck!

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

It could be the temperature limit switch on the dryer. Check to make sure all the exhaust hoses are free and clear. If there is a jam in the line anywhere the dryer overheats and the limit switch trips to prevent a fire. In my case it was the screen on the outside of the house that had gotten clogged with lint.

Spend less than $40.00, took the dryer out of it's position, pulled the main power cord from the wall, removed the back, located the switch (top sensor on the heating coil housing in my case), pulled the wires, removed the bolts, put the new switch in position and bolted down, plugged the wires back in, replaced the back, plugged in the main power, and tested the heating. Worked. Pushed back into position and it's still working. Checking the outside filter periodically to prevent it from happening again.

I bought a thermal cutoff kit (at sears parts store) PN 279769 which fits most Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore and Roper brand clothes dryers. Only used the upper limit switch since it was the one blown.

Best of luck!

If you have a meter (or test light) you can test those thermal cutoff switch/discs that hes speaking off. A thermal limit switch should have continuity when cold. They look like this and you may have 2 of them.

 

[The Beep Goes On]

OK, thank bill and bch...I'll let you know how it turns out

 

[The Beep Goes On]

It's fixed. Continuity check failed on the element so I replaced it and the dryer now works.

Thanks for all your help!!! Much appreciated

HH!
TBGO

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

It's fixed. Continuity check failed on the element so I replaced it and the dryer now works.

Thanks for all your help!!! Much appreciated

HH!
TBGO

I havent replaced one for several years. How much are they now? My guess is $40-$70.

 

[SHERMANVILLE ILLINOIS]

all fixed.

 

[The Beep Goes On]

$85 - still much cheaper than having a guy come out...probably would have been $250.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

$85 - still much cheaper than having a guy come out...probably would have been $250.

Yes the price on those elements has gone way up. I used to buy an aftermarket element for $16 but maybe that is why I replaced so many of them. The last time I checked the Kenmore OEM brand was $65, about 3 years ago.

 

[truckinbutch]

Love it when a plan comes together and saves someone money.
Good on all of you that helped all of us 'untutored'.

 

[EDDE]

$85 - still much cheaper than having a guy come out...probably would have been $250.

that will 335 dollars please no checks