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Equinox 900 - ideal beach settings

OBXmetalDet

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Location
Virginia
Detector(s) used
Minelab Equinox 900
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I got my Equinox 900. From your experience, what are the best beach settings to use when detecting:
  • Dry sand
  • Wet sand
  • Underwater (salt wawater)
In terms of settings. I'm looking for:
  • Sensitivity
  • Threshold
  • Target Tone
  • Recovery speed
  • Detect mode
I would like to ignore iron.
 
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I got my Equinox 900. From your experience, what are the best beach settings to use when detecting:
  • Dry sand
  • Wet sand
  • Underwater (salt wawater)
In terms of settings. I'm looking for:
  • Sensitivity
  • Threshold
  • Target Tone
  • Recovery speed
  • Detect mode
I would like to ignore iron.
I would like Lobster & Ribeye 🤣🏴‍☠️🍀
GL$HH
 
All joking aside just run it on beach one or beach too. It’s a really simple machine. I know they don’t send you a manual, but you can get one online.
 
All joking aside just run it on beach one or beach too. It’s a really simple machine. I know they don’t send you a manual, but you can get one online.
I tried to upload the manual for him but the file was too large. He can get the manual here:

Minelab Product Manuals & Catalogues /

Beach settings are listed on page 13, Beach 1 for dry & wet, Beach 2 for surf & under water.
 
Thank you. I downloaded the manual but as I read it, I still have many questions.
You're most welcome. I know the feeling, sometimes, the more answers I get, the more questions I have, lol.
 
I got my Equinox 900. From your experience, what are the best beach settings to use when detecting:
  • Dry sand
  • Wet sand
  • Underwater (salt wawater)
In terms of settings. I'm looking for:
  • Sensitivity
  • Threshold
  • Target Tone
  • Recovery speed
  • Detect mode
I would like to ignore iron.
Beach conditions are going to determine most settings. On my beaches here in SoCal, I like Park 1 for dry sand and Beach 2 for wet and water. Sensitivity as high as you can and still be stable. Target volume all the way up. Low threshold hum (whatever is comfortable for you), iron on with a low tone, 50 tones, recovery speed dependent on target concentration, and whether you're in the water or dry sand. Sometimes raising the recovery speed will get rid of water falsing. Around fire rings and tables, I use 8. regular dry sand with few targets, I use 3. The more targets, the higher I set the recovery speed unless I'm in an area where going deep is a priority. In the water, it just depends on how chatty it is that day. Salinity and rougher surf can change that setting. You get into black (magnetite) sand, volcanic sand, brackish water, and you may have to play with some other settings. As for ignoring iron, just ignore it. It all sounds the same tone. I'd rather know it's there and may be affecting a non-ferrous signal than to pass up a sketchy good target as junk when it's just the iron next to it causing that. If 50 tones is too much for your untrained ears, go with 5 tones, or even two if you have to. I just like the nuances of 50 tones land hunting, and just never change it when in the water. Doesn't bother me a bit at this point. If everything sounds the same, I go "ear blind" after a while. I like all the different tones to keep me on my game. Oh, and I scoop every non-ferrous signal at the beach. I've had some amazing finds that read 2. You'll dig sh*t loads of gum wrappers and tiny foil in the dry sand, but, just one gold/platinum diamond ring will make you a believer. In the water, you usually don't have that problem with tiny foil.
 
All joking aside just run it on beach one or beach too. It’s a really simple machine. I know they don’t send you a manual, but you can get one online.

Nice dog.
 
Beach conditions are going to determine most settings. On my beaches here in SoCal, I like Park 1 for dry sand and Beach 2 for wet and water. Sensitivity as high as you can and still be stable. Target volume all the way up. Low threshold hum (whatever is comfortable for you), iron on with a low tone, 50 tones, recovery speed dependent on target concentration, and whether you're in the water or dry sand. Sometimes raising the recovery speed will get rid of water falsing. Around fire rings and tables, I use 8. regular dry sand with few targets, I use 3. The more targets, the higher I set the recovery speed unless I'm in an area where going deep is a priority. In the water, it just depends on how chatty it is that day. Salinity and rougher surf can change that setting. You get into black (magnetite) sand, volcanic sand, brackish water, and you may have to play with some other settings. As for ignoring iron, just ignore it. It all sounds the same tone. I'd rather know it's there and may be affecting a non-ferrous signal than to pass up a sketchy good target as junk when it's just the iron next to it causing that. If 50 tones is too much for your untrained ears, go with 5 tones, or even two if you have to. I just like the nuances of 50 tones land hunting, and just never change it when in the water. Doesn't bother me a bit at this point. If everything sounds the same, I go "ear blind" after a while. I like all the different tones to keep me on my game. Oh, and I scoop every non-ferrous signal at the beach. I've had some amazing finds that read 2. You'll dig sh*t loads of gum wrappers and tiny foil in the dry sand, but, just one gold/platinum diamond ring will make you a believer. In the water, you usually don't have that problem with tiny foil.

All this stuff about tones has me really confused. After reading the manual many times I still don't have a good understanding of it. When my Equinox finishes charging soon, I'll play around with it, but I'm sure I will still have many, many questions.

For example, on the Equinox 900, iron is -19 to 0. If there are 20 target IDs associated with iron, how can iron have 50 tones?
 
All this stuff about tones has me really confused. After reading the manual many times I still don't have a good understanding of it. When my Equinox finishes charging soon, I'll play around with it, but I'm sure I will still have many, many questions.

For example, on the Equinox 900, iron is -19 to 0. If there are 20 target IDs associated with iron, how can iron have 50 tones?
It doesn't. All the iron has a low grunt if you have the horseshoe (iron tone) turned on. Keep the horseshoe off if you can't stand hearing the iron, but, you lose some info doing that.
 
It's the non-ferrous that has 50 tones......or 5, 2, tones if you prefer. You can change where those tone breaks are too, and also their pitch. That can help with those with hearing problems in certain ranges.
 
It doesn't. All the iron has a low grunt if you have the horseshoe (iron tone) turned on. Keep the horseshoe off if you can't stand hearing the iron, but, you lose some info doing that.
If you turn off the horseshoe doesn't that ignore/discriminate iron?

If you do that, will that ignore crown bottle caps?
 
If you turn off the horseshoe doesn't that ignore/discriminate iron?

If you do that, will that ignore crown bottle caps?
Not necessarily. Some bottle caps sound and give off a non-ferrous reading. If you raise the iron bias setting (usually to around 5 or so) almost all bottle caps will give off a broken signal indicating what they are (junk). The ones wrapping foil will still ring up as good though. When land hunting places without bottle cap infestation, you most likely will want to turn that setting way down. I actually turn mine off (-1) so some relics aren't rejected as junk. Small (as in tiny) gold can sometimes get rejected too if the iron bias is too high. Just try a few samples of gold stud earrings, small link chains, and various caps to see what iron bias setting will just give you a broken reading on the caps and only set it high enough to I.D. them.
 
Not necessarily. Some bottle caps sound and give off a non-ferrous reading. If you raise the iron bias setting (usually to around 5 or so) almost all bottle caps will give off a broken signal indicating what they are (junk). The ones wrapping foil will still ring up as good though. When land hunting places without bottle cap infestation, you most likely will want to turn that setting way down. I actually turn mine off (-1) so some relics aren't rejected as junk. Small (as in tiny) gold can sometimes get rejected too if the iron bias is too high. Just try a few samples of gold stud earrings, small link chains, and various caps to see what iron bias setting will just give you a broken reading on the caps and only set it high enough to I.D. them.

Sometimes iron can give off non-ferrous readings and some non-ferrous targets may give off the wrong target ID.

With all these false signals being a possibility, it sounds like you really can't trust what the target ID says that often and with that being the case it sounds like it's just best to dig every signal.
 
Sometimes iron can give off non-ferrous readings and some non-ferrous targets may give off the wrong target ID.

With all these false signals being a possibility, it sounds like you really can't trust what the target ID says that often and with that being the case it sounds like it's just best to dig every signal.
You can also get a lot of information from audio tones. I'd listen to audio first, then double check using target ID. Personally, I trust audio more than target ID, but target ID is nice to have to get a 2nd opinion. But digging it all is always the best bet. And if you're gonna dig it all, might as well hunt in all-metal, as all metal typically detects deeper than discrim mode.
 
I discriminate iron out and don't lose a bit of sleep doing it. If it's iffy at all, I dig it.
 
You can also get a lot of information from audio tones. I'd listen to audio first, then double check using target ID. Personally, I trust audio more than target ID, but target ID is nice to have to get a 2nd opinion. But digging it all is always the best bet. And if you're gonna dig it all, might as well hunt in all-metal, as all metal typically detects deeper than discrim mode.

1. This is the part that I don't understand. Let's say you have a tone with a pitch of 25 in the t2 region of the Equinox 900. Doesn't that mean all target IDs in that t2 region will have a tone of the same pitch. If so, how could you differentiate one metal from another?

2. Also, does wearing headphones on the beach make a big difference. I never use them because I can hear a tone anyway.

3. If you went completely underwater and did shallow diving like in 10 ft. of water do you need headphones or can you hear tones without headphones?
 
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1. This is the part that I don't understand. Let's say you have a tone with a pitch of 25 in the t2 region of the Equinox 900. Doesn't that mean all target IDs in that t2 region will have a tone of the same pitch. If so, how could you differentiate one metal from another?

2. Also, does wearing headphones on the beach make a big difference. I never use them because I can hear a tone anyway.

3. If you went completely underwater and did shallow diving like in 10 ft. of water do you need headphones or can you hear tones without headphones?
1. You can't by tone, just I.D. #. That's why I like 50 tone.
2. Yes, headphones are a must in my book.
3. No, the external speaker is worthless underwater. Get some waterproof ones from Tony Eisenhower. You can also use the vibrating handle, but, there again, no tone or target I.D......just buzz and scoop.
 
I tried to upload the manual for him but the file was too large. He can get the manual here:

Minelab Product Manuals & Catalogues /

Beach settings are listed on page 13, Beach 1 for dry & wet, Beach 2 for surf & under water.
Matter of choice, of course but I use beach 2 since it shows a little more sensitivity to fine/smaller gold targets.
 
1. This is the part that I don't understand. Let's say you have a tone with a pitch of 25 in the t2 region of the Equinox 900. Doesn't that mean all target IDs in that t2 region will have a tone of the same pitch. If so, how could you differentiate one metal from another?
I've attached a screenshot of the Target Tones available on the NOX 700 & 900, which you can find on page 34 of the user manual. I have the same choices on my X-Terra Elite. You can choose 1 tone, 2 tones, 5 tones, All Tones, or Depth. Some guys just want to hear 1 beep. If you select 2 tones, you'll get 2 different pitches for 2 conductivity ranges. 5 tones give you more flexibility to select different tones for different ranges of targets. All Tones gives you tones for all Target ID's. Depth gives louder tones for larger or shallow targets, softer volume tones for small or deeper targets.

I use All Tones on my X-Terra Elite as I also have a Sovereign Elite, and in discrim mode, the detector has auto iron reject and all tones. The pitch of the tone is based on the conductivity of the target, so a silver quarter will have a high-pitched tone. A nickel, some pull tabs, and some gold rings will have a mid-level tone. Lower conductivity targets like some gold will give off a low tone. Iron automatically nulls the threshold. The pitch of the tone gives an initial indication of what the target might be and/or at least the conductivity range the target is in. Try them all, then pick the one that works best for your ears.
2. Also, does wearing headphones on the beach make a big difference. I never use them because I can hear a tone anyway.
Headphones are an absolute MUST for the serious beach detectorist. There's so much noise on a beach during the season, and still, lots of noise off season. The waves crashing at the shoreline can be loud, boats going by offshore can be loud, especially diesel-powered go-fast boats. Headphones help to block out this noise, and makes it easier to hear those faint, whisper signals that you want to listen for, as they're deep targets almost out of range. You'd never be able to hear those faint whispers without the phones.
3. If you went completely underwater and did shallow diving like in 10 ft. of water do you need headphones or can you hear tones without headphones?
Gotta have underwater, waterproof headphones when going completely underwater. I'll second cudamark's suggestion about getting a set of Tony Eisenhower waterproof headphones. Tony built me a set of his divers' waterproof headphones with his enhanced impedance matching circuitry for my Dual Field PI. They have small drain holes for the water to drain from the cups and are the most comfortable phones I've ever worn. Tony doesn't have a website, only works through email, so you can reach him at: tony@idigbeaches.com
 

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