Home Built Equipment

The centrifuge a project in progress,
1. Discarded propane tank.
2. Tubing from grain auger, abrasion resistant
3. Rings and base plasma cut local machine shop.
4. Spindle from lawnmower deck.
5. Mower engine from landfill. - not shown

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If your planning to build the Clarkson famed rod mill, your local auto wrecker will have old axles laying about. You'll need an abrasive chop saw to cut these into usable lengths.

If I needed to crush a lot of sand I would use hardened rollers.

The attached file, Randy Clarkson's rod mill report with plans.

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Attachments

  • Clarkson rod mill.pdf
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Well merry Christmas to you and it looks like your hot - n - heavy into home built equipment ,so was I in the years past ! I always enjoyed making something that works and is useable to my mining / prospecting activity's ! I really liked this line of enjoyment for me. Even better to see peoples face when my output showed gold !:occasion14: Keep us posted with pictures as you complete and use your projects !
 

I built this still to recover essential oils, Kate had other ideas. She used her share to pickle cherries and i used mine to make glycerin soap from waste restaurant cooking oil

 

These feed mills rust out, I picked this one up for $100.00 for the hammer mill. The Case tractor struggles with the mill.

I found this Minneapolis Moline diesel to replace the Case.

Light copper wire fed into the mill comes out as chops which I've compressed into briquettes.

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Anyone make an impact mill using semi truck wheels? I need to correct myself here I mean break drums.

The wheels are around 20 -22 inches and around 5/8" thick of cast steel depending on the wheel.
 

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Anyone make an impact mill using semi truck wheels?

The wheels are around 20 -22 inches and around 5/8" thick of cast steel depending on the wheel.
Those large truck rims are made from cast iron, probably badly heat checked when discarded.

Expensive nickle welding rods are required to weld cast, it can also be brazed then covered in perlite insulation for slow cooling.
 

Yep , when welding cast Iron you need to pre- heat to even the expansion of the two pieces to be welded and post -heat to slow down the expansion (movement) of these pieces . OR bevel the crack and weld it and as it cools down it will crack right down the middle of the weld. Then just put another pass right over the cracked section . Nichol weld lays down real nice , and I've brazed cast also.
 

Those large truck rims are made from cast iron, probably badly heat checked when discarded.

Expensive nickle welding rods are required to weld cast, it can also be brazed then covered in perlite insulation for slow cooling.
I should correct myself here I mean break drums. The one's I have are cast steel however some may be cast iron.

Yes nickle welding rods are needed to weld cast iron with a pre-heat needed.
 

This may replace the miller table for the most part. There will still be some losses so one will have to check on what is being discarded.
 

This could become the next 'motorized gold pan'..........LOL.
 

Getting back to the gold belt it should work just don't know what type of material will work the best for the sticking process. Some roughness of the surface may help out. Just like making the surface of a gold pan rough makes it work better.
 

Perhaps a band of magnets under the belt about at the water flow will help to repel the iron down the slope a bit using the reverse polarity to repel the iron materials.

Very good tip and thanks for posting alloy II.
The belt works because gold is hydrophobic repelling water causing the small gold particles to cling to the belt surface while the gangue washes free.

I've given this Miller on steroids considerable thought, a squeegee placed on the underside with a rain drain trough to catch the gold would complete the project.

I believe the belt should be made from material which is hydrophilic and smooth as a baby's butt.

 

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