Oregon Vikings off topic.... free for all thread!

[Peyton Manning]

been wondering about you whippersnapper

 

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[Limitool]

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Mr. V... Replied to your PM also. Appears to be a great looking bow. I know your tall guy so proper draw length will be a concern (for everyone also). The bow appears to be 60% let-off (is this correct?) If so it will be a much smoother bow to shoot when released. This will lead to better accuracy for the "average" person. The sight is going to be fine for hunting as almost anything will work out front. I don't like seeing the overdraw bracket mounted for you to use at first. This leads to shorter faster arrows. Just because your a tall - strong guy you don't need a HIGH POUNDAGE bow to take game. And it's much easier to shoot and control at a lower poundage also. But the bow looks to be in great shape buddy!

Now their will ALWAYS be those who think 70+ pounds, overdraw brackets and light carbon arrows are the best of the best... but their not (don't get sucked into that line of thought). I always told all my students to shoot in the "KISS" mode... Keep It Simple Stupid...!!! High arrow speed is detrimental to accuracy and should only be used by very seasoned - schooled shooters. But "rumors" abound by novice shooters and archery manufactures. Business is business I guess and many folks "buy into it".

In fall of 91' the shop got a batch of Easton XX75's in the 2512 size delivered. Huge diameter shafted arrows for very high poundage bows. My first thought was "damn, I wonder if I could get these big boys to fly out of my 2-38lb. Hoyt Pro Vantage Medalist target bows? Well 3 dozen arrows later I finally came up with a combination that actually worked great. Cut all arrows 6" to long, add a huge weight of 175 grains and use the largest fletchings possible. I was setting them up to use at the 92' Vegas Open which was introducing the new "Vegas" target. They used a 10 ring about 1/2 the size of normal. So my thinking was... If their going to make the target that small now then I want to use the biggest diameter arrow shaft possible to "touch it". When I got there I looked around to other pro's to see if anyone else was trying this. Well I made it to the finals and there was 4 of us using them. Us 4 exchanged a lot of information. The next year 12 of these setup's made it into the finals (out of hundreds only the top 50 make it to the finals). Many folks and manufactures approached me and asked "how the hell did you get them to fly right?".

So here's my point Mr. Viking.... Shooting a shaft designed for a high poundage bow and making it work in a low poundage bow @ 50% let off takes a professional shooter to pull it off (very hard to shoot). AND... it's the same doing the reverse. Meaning light arrows in a high poundage bow, overdraw bracket and a high let-off does not help accuracy. Just something to think about. But if your bow is around 60% let off and you shoot proper sized full length arrows and the draw is right looks like ya got a great bow. Brad

 

[Oregon Viking]

Thanks brother Brad!
Well it appears this overdraw/arrow rest came on this bow. According to the manual.. Draw length 31", adjustable and Draw weight 60-70#, adjustable. Someone has written all the tiller and brace height measurements in the "notes" of the manual. It came with light carbon arrows, trophy hunter 400. They are skinny compared to my old Eastons Wicked broad-heads though. How do I know what the let-off is? It doesn't say anywhere on the bow, in fact no sticker.
Luckily the draw weight, draw length, cable and string length were written down in the manual... looks to be when the bow was purchased. So since I already have the overdraw and don't really want to find/install a new arrow rest.. what arrows would you recommend? For some reason I have always liked Easton aluminum's.

 

[GB1]

that a nice compound bow i use one for hunting and i love it the first time i used it i popped my arm with the string that did hurt

 

[Limitool]

Thanks brother Brad!
Well it appears this overdraw/arrow rest came on this bow. According to the manual.. Draw length 31", adjustable and Draw weight 60-70#, adjustable. Someone has written all the tiller and brace height measurements in the "notes" of the manual. It came with light carbon arrows, trophy hunter 400. They are skinny compared to my old Eastons Wicked broad-heads though. How do I know what the let-off is? It doesn't say anywhere on the bow, in fact no sticker.
Luckily the draw weight, draw length, cable and string length were written down in the manual... looks to be when the bow was purchased. So since I already have the overdraw and don't really want to find/install a new arrow rest.. what arrows would you recommend? For some reason I have always liked Easton aluminum's.

Well guy since you asked I'll give ya my opinion based upon what you got and am not wanting to change and what I see. The arrow rest you got is very adjustable for any size arrow you end up with. So that's covered. All you'll have to do is get the nock properly set and the arrow centershot. It may be for the arrows that came with it...? And if you do go for a heavier arrow you arrow rest can be adjusted for the weight also. Not to stiff... and not to loose.

Purchase a bow sling and get it mounted. When actually shooting NEVER grip the bow. Keep the bow arm hand "open" and barely touch the bow (fingertips) if you feel the need. Don't put too much hand into the bow grip. It's a very common mistake to do. When to much grip is used it "rolls" the lower forearm closer into the bow string when fired. Even without a bow in your hand you can see the difference yourself while extending your arm and then pretending to gain more grip. A bow sling allows you to NOT grip the bow when drawing or dropping it after fired. It should fit loosely across upper wrist (no tightness or weight bearing). After firing just let the bow go with your follow-thru and it will pop right back into your hand. This greatly enhances accuracy also by not torquing a bow before the arrow leaves and begins to paradox.

Now after talking to ya about this before I realize your not a schooled or seasoned shooter. And again don't get wrapped up with your physical size and strength. So with this now said I suggest you shoot the bow at it's lower weight so it is easier to reproduce several shots while getting used to it. And even at 60lbs. please shoot slow. Now this will lead to different arrows also. Check Easton's charts for bow weight and draw length. Do not get "entry" level arrows like the old gamegetters. These arrows can bend upon impact from just practicing. And there hard to re-straighten also. Spring for some XX75's at the least. There cheaper in the end. And if you end up with say 3 choices go with the heavier arrow. Point being.... slow the damn bow DOWN. And what I don't like about your apparent setup is while at full draw your broad-head will be behind your grip and over it. It's even dangerous shooting target arrows. I have personally SAW 4 hunting bows blow up and 1 had an overdraw setup. It was brutal. The shooters bow arm was cut in several places and I was hit with 1/3 of a broken arrow shaft on my forehead while standing behind him. Maybe cut your arrows a couple of inches to long and just go with a heavier broad-head to soften up the spline weight of the stiffer shaft. This too will slow it down some while enhancing accuracy.

You can check the bow weight let off by just pulling down on a spring loaded scale. An archery shop will have one. Peak weight will show and then when it cams over the weight will drop. Do the math and that's your let-off percentage. Easy to do. The less the let-off the smoother the shot will be to control enhancing accuracy again.

Viking... Are you going to be using a release aid of some type? I ask because a 31" draw seems to be a little short for someone of your height. Depending upon the release aid this will help some. And it also makes a difference on your arrow choice if using one. If ya have a good archery shop around have them use a measuring arrow on you. And if you can have a "kiss button" installed and then anchor center of lips up front as this would help if the draw was a little short also.

Ok guy... just my take on what I see and what your asked. Wish ya was here for a week so I could help ya. Maybe after 2-3 days we'd get around to putting up a target and see what happens!!!! Targets are easy to hit... shooting is the hard part. Any other questions or concerns?

 

[Oregon Viking]

Thanks! Any other questions you ask? Yep. So recommend me a good arrow rest to replace the overdraw. A release was included, along with a thingie that looks like a pant leg or a sleeve.....












This also. ^^ I guess if you miss the deer you're supposed to chase him down and club him?
Heavy bow weighs around 6 1/2 pounds.
Also when I draw this bow the string touches my cheek, and manual states "all 1995 Hoyt compound bows are adjustable in draw length"
I measured my arm span and come up with 31"

 

[Limitool]

Thanks! Any other questions you ask? Yep. So recommend me a good arrow rest to replace the overdraw. A release was included, along with a thingie that looks like a pant leg or a sleeve..... View attachment 1591735

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This also. ^^ I guess if you miss the deer you're supposed to chase him down and club him?
Heavy bow weighs around 6 1/2 pounds.
Also when I draw this bow the string touches my cheek, and manual states "all 1995 Hoyt compound bows are adjustable in draw length"
I measured my arm span and come up with 31"

You crack me up guy.... OK, and in no particular order here we go. That "thingy" appears to be an arm guard. It's designed to protect your arm should you NOT remember to get THAT GRIP RIGHT! I've seen high poundage bows literally rip flesh from arms. The arm guard goes on wider side first with the narrow end toward wrist. Those reinforced ribs shown go on the inside to help you in case of a screw up. If your hitting your arm a lot then let's talk about your shoulder placement before drawing bow to go along with that grip I talked about. A proper shot has to be "built" not just created willy nilly. A good coach and YOU learning muscle memory will go A LONG WAY!

That "club" is called a stabilizer. It just screws into the front of the bow pointing forward. It's designed to absorb excess vibration and shock during the shot. At this time I advise you to just plain ignore it... period. You sir will derive no benefit from it until later down the road at this time. And again... just because your a "big man" for now it's just added weight for you to deal with while learning (try later).

While this bow came out the year after I quit the archery shop and competitive touring it appears to be a Hoyt company "speed bow" by its appearance. I derive this not by reading about it but it being a 70 lb. bow, overdraw and maybe even around 70%+ let off. Probably advertised when shooting carbon arrows at around 280 - 300 FPS. If I'm right this by its own nature is a critical bow to shoot. Now I'm very sure it's capable of tight groups from 10-40+ yds. (no doubt). But my point is this may be by nature a hard bow (without help) to learn to shoot up to ITS potential. Now I have always said I want equipment waiting on me not me wanting better equipment. YOU sir.... have a bow waiting on you. But it's a hard bow to learn on without help or you REALLY grasping in proper order what's being said to you. I'm sure your capable Viking after talking to you numerous times.

Now here's where if you were here I could help you much better. We/you have to come up with a GOOD comfortable anchor point AND STICK WITH IT FOR AWHILE! And you have to do this BEFORE you have arrows cut... BEFORE! Do you have a reputable archery shop around? If you do... IF... I'll send you a list of stuff to ask help with in a proper order. Because again, this will have a direct bearing on what arrows you end up with. And this will save you a lot of money not having to "experiment" thru trial and error.

ARROW REST QUESTION: The one that came with the bow is a very good rest and totally adjustable for ANYTHING you might ever what to do if just hunting. I can't tell from the pics if the rest could be mounted directly onto the bow if the overdraw bracket was eliminated. And if it can't for whatever reason I'm sure there are much shorter overdraw brackets. I'd bet you don't need an overdraw bracket at all (thinking out loud here). But, I could be wrong if Hoyt designed THAT bow as a new "speed bow" and that's just the way it is...? But again... all I'm trying to do is help YOU learn to shoot and enjoy knowing how to hit a target quickly. Hence the reason I'm trying to slow down your "speed bow" for you to do just that. Keep everything you got and possibly later you'll know exactly how to shoot a 300+ FPS bow.

I hope you can get some good help in determining a great anchor point along with a proper grip and stance and then get a great arrow combo to go along with it... That would be great!!! Your measured 31" arm spam is inaccurate without a given rest, anchor point and the release aid being utilized. After determining that a proper measured arrow can be a given. Viking would you like me to PM these ideas, suggestions and things I know to you instead of the public forum? Either way... Keep the questions - concerns coming and I'll do my best to address... Brad

 

[Oregon Viking]

Thanks! You of course see the laughing smiley after my "pant leg" and "club" comments... Of course I know what they are.. just razzin' ya.
I wish I could find a 1995 Hoyt bow catalog so I know more about the overdraw...was it an option, other details. Small town no bow shop, however I will be moving soon... a hundred miles inland, much bigger town I know a guy that had a bow shop here years ago and will look him up. He was/is a bow expert.
I just shot it, it seems to be pretty damn fast, but easy for me to shoot. I hit what I was aiming at 3 times!
(full sheet of plywood...)
I don't like these arrows, they are...... to me... to skinny and to light! But the last arrows I used were Easton aluminum's.

Close ups of the overdraw.












Overdraw mounting point, overdraw removed

 

[Oregon Viking]

Thanks! You of course see the laughing smiley after my "pant leg" and "club" comments... Of course I know what they are.. just razzin' ya.
I wish I could find a 1995 Hoyt bow catalog so I know more about the overdraw...was it an option, other details. Small town no bow shop, however I will be moving soon... a hundred miles inland, much bigger town I know a guy that had a bow shop here years ago and will look him up. He was/is a bow expert.
I just shot it, it seems to be pretty damn fast, but easy for me to shoot. I hit what I was aiming at 3 times!
(full sheet of plywood...)
I don't like these arrows, they are...... to me... to skinny and to light! But the last arrows I used were Easton aluminum's.

Close ups of the overdraw.

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Overdraw mounting point, overdraw removed

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I appreciate your knowledge and insight on archery brotha!
This following article...link is safe... is what most people consider gospel. I will listen to you and always do research so I know all the facts. I was a pretty decent shot back in the day before carbon arrows and the "speed" way of thinking. I bagged a couple of wild boar, a few deer and a turkey or 3. Let me know what you think of this article. I did find some info that this bow (1995 Hoyt fast flite defiant with command cams) could shoot 289 FPS. 23 years later they can achieve 370 FPS. Seems they have hit a road block. And the emphasis is still short bows...and speed.
https://www.archerybusiness.com/top-10-reasons-shoot-carbon-arrows/

 

[Limitool]

Thanks! You of course see the laughing smiley after my "pant leg" and "club" comments... Of course I know what they are.. just razzin' ya.
I wish I could find a 1995 Hoyt bow catalog so I know more about the overdraw...was it an option, other details. Small town no bow shop, however I will be moving soon... a hundred miles inland, much bigger town I know a guy that had a bow shop here years ago and will look him up. He was/is a bow expert.
I just shot it, it seems to be pretty damn fast, but easy for me to shoot. I hit what I was aiming at 3 times!
(full sheet of plywood...)
I don't like these arrows, they are...... to me... to skinny and to light! But the last arrows I used were Easton aluminum's.

Close ups of the overdraw.

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Overdraw mounting point, overdraw removed

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Top pic show's the back side of the arrow rest mounting bracket. But this bracket was meant to mount onto the overdraw bracket only. I have mounted the EXACT SAME rest onto many bows but it had a longer mounting bracket which mounted into the riser and then around the riser for adjustment and use. But after your last post it is possible to mount a non-overdraw arrow rest onto this bow. But the one on the overdraw bracket seems to me... that it will not work as designed to mount directly onto your bow riser because of its limited design.

SO... either keep the overdraw bracket and its present mounted rest intact... or spend money on a new one of similar design.

I'll say again... (and totally believe) very few folks can handle the speed nor need it to kill a deer or some smaller animal. Now if your desire is a Kodiak Brown bear your still gonna have to get VERY CLOSE. Now here's something to think about: Would you rather hit it (bear) with a "knitting needle" or a "ball bat"? Killing a deer is easy. I've killed many from 50 yds. to point blank range. 90% were 20 yds or less.

Here's my point again: The average bow hunting person can't shoot a 6" group of 5-arrows consistently to 40 yds. BUT MANY KNOWLEDGEABLE CAN!!!! Hell I could hold 3" groups out to 50 yds. with my hunting bow: But I wasn't the normal hunter / shooter. But a 40 yd. shot on a deer is A LONG SHOT... and shouldn't be taken by the average archer. So with all my BS said before... why in the hell would ANYONE need all that SPEED from a bow? Again, speed bows are much harder to shoot / control and learn to shoot then a much slower bow.

My target tournament bow (NOT HUNTING BOW) was 135 FPS. SLOW... I shot many many perfect 600 FITA rounds. My hunting bows were only set up @ around 53 lbs. and hit 220 FPS Max ... (SLOW!). But among all my friends and fellow hunters I was always on top of the game. Some of this had to do with "hunting skills" and all the rest was... 1 shot / 1 kill.

Mr. Viking... just go back to your aluminum arrows of a good grade which match your draw and a quality broad head (advised earlier). My best to ya buddy in getting the help to move ya forward. Sorry I didn't catch onto your humor upon the previous post I responded too... Brad

 

[Limitool]

FROM YOUR POSTED ARTICLE:

#10: Durability: What does the average person shoot them in to while practicing? While shooting into a "soft" target it's great as for quality aluminum shafts. Glancing blows...? These suck for all!

#9: Consistent Straightness: Back to #10... How would the average person know or appreciate the price difference of the straightness of carbon vs aluminum?

#8: They can't bend: Not to be confused with breaking... Wait till YOU see one brake / explode upon a release! I have numerous times.

#7: Quality Components: Bull... glue is glue and the components are probably still all the same. Why would it change? I built many carbon arrows and NEVER had a problem with "components".

#6: Quicker Recovery: SO...? Arrows need to paradox and "quicker recovery" doesn't mean better... if so WHY? And I'm not buying this articles reason either.

#5: Raw Arrow Speed: SO... and for what reason? Not a good attribution toward the average shooter.

#4: Penetration: BULL... What do ya want to be hit with again... a swung knitting needle or a ball bat? Blunt force trauma KILLS quicker.

#3: Wind bucking ability: WTF is this about...? How far do you plan on shooting or are capable of? If you can show the difference between a carbon vs. aluminum on a single shot hunting... go for it

#2 - #1: NOHING HAS CHANGED.

To me (I really don't know) but this Bob Robb is a paid endorser of CARBON ARROWS! I have a lot of carbon arrow components yet and I bet they haven't changed a bit. But again what the hell do I now know..?

 

[Peyton Manning]

I must be on his ignore list

 

[Oregon Viking]

I must be on his ignore list

You are not, but I'm thinking like me you are not getting e-mail notifications to this thread? None of my subscribed threads are working...

 

[Oregon Viking]

A couple of guys on an archery forum informed me that this bow did not come with the overdraw....even though it looks like it did, so I will now need an arrow rest and a decent brand/kind. (hint hint)

The Easton arrow selector tells me I need X7's (expensive) 2512-2712. Logs!! I can't find any XX75's that big.
Plus there are different types of XX75's. Gamegetter, platinum plus, legacy.... I have one older gamegetter fatter then the carbon arrows that came with this bow... and I like it a lot better! I do not like the overdraw it just seems the arrow rest is to far back.

So shooting a 2512-2712 should slow the bow down... and I will shoot it at 60 lbs.

 

[Limitool]

Viking... The very same arrow rest will (should) be available yet today. This meaning the rest is adjustable up/down... in/out...(from riser) and the tension for arrow support also being their. So to now ask me what arrow rest will accommodate all the attributes of the one you got now 20+ years later is beyond my "pay grade".

In may opinion... improving upon an arrow rest of the one you now own is kind of like "re-inventing" the wheel. Are there better ones, or ones more micro adjustable or possibly 1 much superior I wouldn't have a damn clue...? I still have numerous ones just like yours. And the 2 on my Hoyt Pro Vantages Medalist's came before yours. And I shot 300's / 60 spots / w/7/IO's while using 2512's on an NFAA round. And shot many 600 rounds on a FITA target with 4 IO's using 2512's.

Sorry guy... but to give you a recommendation to match the one you now own....? Just look for the same attributes and professional help in setting it up.

QUESTION: Now I mean this...! What is the feed back (be it good or bad) on the info I've fed ya if you've shared any on archery websites? I would LOVE to KNOW be it good or bad guy. I'd like to learn what I've missed.

So.. are you saying XX75's in the 2512's are now not available? They used to be a "dime a dozen" w/X7's much more expensive even in my time. I haven't looked, surfed or asked anyone. And X7's are/were the primo grade shafts because of there hardness. But.... These shafts cannot be straightened IF you were able to bend one prior to breaking it in two. That was the whole point of this alloy. Yes I did "bend" some but I just threw them out! But that's just me... (NOT JOKING). But if you can't purchase XX75 in the 2512 size I'm totally in the dark now. And, X's are just over the top for hunting purposes (so says I).

I hope you shared some of my thoughts on some archery sites because I'd be VERY curious to hear any feedback be it good or bad Viking. When I say I "walked" away in 94' I mean 100% WALKED AWAY. So any info I have on equipment is from then.... but knowledge of shooting is rock solid and from the heart.... Brad

 

[Oregon Viking]

I have not shared any info on the one archery sight I joined, just not comfortable there yet.
I priced arrow rests......

Feedback is positive there are a lot of people saying they like aluminum arrows, but almost no one talks about slowing down a bow...it's all about speed. and a lot about speed... getting the arrow to the target as fast as possible so as the effects of gravity are less and the wind has less chance to move the arrow. A lot also seem to think that slow means the deer will move before the arrow gets there...and.. slow means less straight, more arrow drop. Why shoot a slow arrow that you have-ta aim 5 feet above the deer! Big arc!

I just want to eliminate the overdraw, it just feels wrong. I don't know if I can get a long enough arrow to keep the broad-head out far enough... on the outside of my hand!

Most agree over draws are no longer needed, because of the newer carbon arrows. Over draws main purpose was to shoot shorter arrows... "speed" issue again. Over draws cause you to (torque) the bow as they manipulate your grip.

I also want to get into 3D shooting. A friend let me shoot his take down re-curve, he says I could be an instinct shooter. Great re-curve no sights... compound... sights? Not sure why instinct shooting applies more to re-curves and long bows.

An overdraw conversation.
Just wondered when overdraws for bow went out of favor? I remember when they first came out, everyone thought they were great, and greatly increased the speed of the arrow. I never used one, or even was very interested in them, and only now noticed that I don't see anyone talking about them anymore. does anyone use one these days, or what was the "problem" with them so people stopped using them?

Several reasons. but the short of it is that bow speeds have increased do to cam/ limb/ riser design, with out the need to use an over draw and all the negative that go along with them.

To add to this, arrows have gotten much lighter eliminating the need for a shorter arrow. That was the basic reasoning behind overdraws. Able to shoot a lighter arrow in spine and weight due to the shorter length.


Short overdraws are making a comeback in the archery world due to the , misconception imo, they are more forgiving due to the rest being positioned over the wrist. The flaw in this thought process, ,imo, is that torque occurs at the grip and not the wrist, therefore creating more torque at the rest when torque occurs

Drop away rests are short overdraws, but light carbon arrows which can weigh half that of aluminum shafts, 300+ fps bows (once thought impossible), expandable lightweight heads etc... have all made the need for overdraws obsolete. An overdraw today would so reduce arrow weight that the bow would likely explode when fired

 

[Limitool]

I have not shared any info on the one archery sight I joined, just not comfortable there yet. I priced arrow rests...... Feedback is positive there are a lot of people saying they like aluminum arrows, and a lot nuts about speed... getting the arrow to the target as fast as possible so as the effects of gravity are less and the wind has less chance to move the arrow. A lot also seem to think that slow means the deer will move before the arrow gets there...and.. slow means less straight, more arrow drop.

I just want to eliminate the overdraw, it just feels wrong. I don't know if I can get a long enough arrow to keep the broad-head out far enough... on the outside of my hand!

Viking... DO NOT GET CAUGHT UP IN ALL THE HYPE AND CONFUSION: Accuracy is what you want and KNOWING how to do it! Screw the "gravity" thing. Give me a break... how far of a shot are you/they talking for this to take place (gravity)? And give up the wind thing also... Damn your only shooting point blank to 30 yds.? And if your capable of holding 4" groups consistently to 40+ yds. then good for you. And as far as deer "jumping the string"... yep that happens. I've had deer jump from point blank to 50 yds. But not always do they do this and having to deal with a fast bow vs. one your know how to "shoot" is much more valuable.

Your on the right line of thinking if wanting to shoot at 60 lbs., slow the bow down and shoot a stiff-longer shaft and then learn "how to shoot"... I MEAN - How to shoot. After that then you can upgrade to higher speeds if you'd like... but I totally doubt you'd ever would. I killed more deer than any of my hunting buddy's and I had the slowest shooting equipment of ANY of them. Don't get caught up in all the gravity, wind, arrow drop and deer jumping stuff... It's all on YOU.

Remember what I said: Shoot in the K.I.S.S. mode buddy!

 

[Oregon Viking]

I hear ya bro
Look at the above post I added stuff.
Hey now... I could adapt the Howard Hill methods. Longbow at over a hundred pounds... Was it fast though?
Wait I have an over draw, it is "anodized camo" matches the bow (yeh i'm a pretty boy..) over draws are for shorter arrows... Why cant I keep it and just use long arrows?

 

[Limitool]

"I also want to get into 3D shooting." you say: Don't blame ya... It is a blast. ADVISE: Learn to shoot a 300 perfect score on an 20 yd. NFAA target. I mean just 10 perfect scores in a row... then learn how to take your skill to the 3D circuit. You'll be amazed at the difference between a wanna be 3D shooter vs the target shooter. They'll be no comparison.

Hell the Howard Hill stuff was/is WAY out of my league... couldn't hold a candle admittedly. Were they fast? Probably not by design...?

My old 2512'S were EASTON'S XX75 EQUALIZER'S. Black shafts, 5" fletchings and then from their I took over to finish them. Micro weighed all inserts, tips, nocks, fletching and glue. And this happened after I weighed 3-5 dozen shafts and put them in their own separate classes. Then ran each "batch" through a straightener and further separated them. The reminder I sold to friends who "loved" them till.

I'm gonna look tomorrow and educate myself on what's now available Viking... Later, Brad

 

[Limitool]

Well now.... it looks like the world has "moved on" from what I used when I quit shooting competitively. But the prices are about the same for quality shafts in the X7 lineup. Get a quality backstop to shoot in to also. The X7 shafts are very durable and long lived. What I liked about them was they usually just broke before they'd bend. And when they do bend they're hard to re-straighten and shouldn't be shot. They "blow up" fairly easy once cracked or stressed. But that's the whole point of using them.

I used to have fun taking some old X7 shafts and shooting them into a single target indoors. It sounded like a small hand grenade after a few shots. You could hear metal flying and hitting the walls downrange. Or some of us after closing up the shop would get out the metal targets and set them downrange. These targets had about a 10-ring size cutout. We'd make stupid bets and have at it. Damn it was loud when somebody hit that metal target with an X7. The shaft would just blow up into pieces everywhere. The X7's are a much harder alloy and can take a real beating straight on. But they hate glancing blows and usually just snap in two. I'll look and see today if I still have an arrow rest that will work for ya. I still have some in their original boxes yet... Brad