Spring Cleaning.......

[releventchair]

Chased some burrs with a couple needle files on a well used Yugo SKS today.
Then finally spotted the rough/sharp edged void(?) on the bolt carrier's edge in front of the cut out for stripper clips on one side.
It was crashing onto the gas tube above the barrel , on one side. It would run home alright with full spring pressure. But the slight hang up just short of closed if ridden (no reason to ride it , but hey...) was annoying.
Looked like a void , almost an elongated half bubble when made , compared to the other sides concave cut. Not hammered into that shape from firing. (?)

Bayo isfree though...L.o.l...

 

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[Retired Sarge]

Chased some burrs with a couple needle files on a well used Yugo SKS today.
Then finally spotted the rough/sharp edged void(?) on the bolt carrier's edge in front of the cut out for stripper clips on one side.
It was crashing onto the gas tube above the barrel , on one side. It would run home alright with full spring pressure. But the slight hang up just short of closed if ridden (no reason to ride it , but hey...) was annoying.
Looked like a void , almost an elongated half bubble when made , compared to the other sides concave cut. Not hammered into that shape from firing. (?)

Bayo isfree though...L.o.l...

Surplus and old guns can be a pain at times. I've got a Finned M91, 1927 Tikkakoski step barrel, 1 of 3,000 made, that the bayonet is stuck on.

I tried to to wack it with a mallet to break it free and when the mallet bounced I hit the lockring. That didn't end well at all, I managed to break the lockring into three pieces, and the bayonet is still stuck. Don't know why the lockring was so brittle. Well the bayonet end of the rifle, has been soaking in oil for a few months, so I tried again, with no luck. So back into the oil for now. In a few days I will take a heat gun to it and see if I can break it loose. Last option is to cut the bayonet sleeve.

 

[releventchair]

Ouch!
Is it a peened ended screw?

Hide the tape measure when you're done ; and call it a M38......

 

[Retired Sarge]

Ouch!
Is it a peened ended screw?

Hide the tape measure when you're done ; and call it a M38......

The lockring screw, I belive so. Finding a replacement lockring itself is like finding the Holy Grail, not going to happen. If I can get it to start moving, I'm pretty sure it will come off. Once it's off, I'll take the bayonet and just put it aside, and get a new one that is complete/intact.

 

[releventchair]

The lockring screw, I belive so. Finding a replacement lockring itself is like finding the Holy Grail, not going to happen. If I can get it to start moving, I'm pretty sure it will come off. Once it's off, I'll take the bayonet and just put it aside, and get a new one that is complete/intact.

You're indoors....
Transmission fluid and acetone , 10-30% of it being acetone (acetone is much of some nail polish remover formula ingredients if your wife is not home)penetrate well in well vented , no ignition source areas.
I've used tranny fluid alone. With surprising results on rusted brakeline junctions with repeated applications over the course of a week.
I should quit being cheap, and order some Kroil.

 

[Retired Sarge]

You're indoors....
Transmission fluid and acetone , 10-30% of it being acetone (acetone is much of some nail polish remover formula ingredients if your wife is not home)penetrate well in well vented , no ignition source areas.
I've used tranny fluid alone. With surprising results on rusted brakeline junctions with repeated applications over the course of a week.
I should quit being cheap, and order some Kroil.

I've got a section of PVC pipe with a cap, that is zipped tied to my workbench. It's filled with transmission fluid, and I just stood it up in it, and left it soaking. I've honestly been so busy with other stuff I actually forgot about it, until yesterday.

 

[releventchair]

I've got a section of PVC pipe with a cap, that is zipped tied to my workbench. It's filled with transmission fluid, and I just stood it up in it, and left it soaking. I've honestly been so busy with other stuff I actually forgot about it, until yesterday.

An ideal kind of project and penetrant to forget a while as it soaks. It sure doesn't seem to work very well if you sit and watch it impatiently ...

 

[Retired Sarge]

An ideal kind of project and penetrant to forget a while as it soaks. It sure doesn't seem to work very well if you sit and watch it impatiently ...

Ah true, a watched pot never boils........

 

[Retired Sarge]

You're indoors....
Transmission fluid and acetone , 10-30% of it being acetone (acetone is much of some nail polish remover formula ingredients if your wife is not home)penetrate well in well vented , no ignition source areas.
I've used tranny fluid alone. With surprising results on rusted brakeline junctions with repeated applications over the course of a week.
I should quit being cheap, and order some Kroil.

I should also mention that I use transmission fluid as an gun oil on all my guns. I can get a bigger bottle/amount of transmission fluid for less than a little bottle of actual gun oil.

I also use PB Blaster to clean sewer pipe barrels, use boiling water to melt cosmoline/grease on any new milsurp I get. My bag of tricks seem endless at times. I've used kerosene mixed with oil to break loose rusted/stuck action screws.

 

[Retired Sarge]

Chased some burrs with a couple needle files on a well used Yugo SKS today.
Then finally spotted the rough/sharp edged void(?) on the bolt carrier's edge in front of the cut out for stripper clips on one side.
It was crashing onto the gas tube above the barrel , on one side. It would run home alright with full spring pressure. But the slight hang up just short of closed if ridden (no reason to ride it , but hey...) was annoying.
Looked like a void , almost an elongated half bubble when made , compared to the other sides concave cut. Not hammered into that shape from firing. (?)

Bayo isfree though...L.o.l...

Upper or bottom edge of the carrier? Makes me wonder how it happened......

 

[releventchair]

Upper or bottom edge of the carrier? Makes me wonder how it happened......

Oh boy , how to describe....
Side. Inside one "claw" that creates mass for stripper clip slot. Forward of slot. (I'm not looking at it and trying to remember.)
The other side I was using to compare. Multiple bevels on it.
Without matching bevels on both sides , the left side was too rough. Carved a shallow double groove on one side of the gas tube. (I'm calling it the gas tube for lack of a better description , but it is the tube/hole right above the chamber.)

Pics show smooth wear on a side of that tube sometimes. Slop in the carrier forward end is understood. But mine on the Yugo was not "funneling" onto the gas tube as smooth as it could have as it wobbled forward.
Functioned like that since the late sixties. Or when the one side got messed up. Could have chipped out or gouged a piece off hitting the shoulder of that tube?
An armorer would likely spot it.
I'd need to look again , but think bolt is only non matching number.
No , back of bolt does not seem too long or pounded.
Could the carriers tolerance be beyond specs for wear? Or not mated just right with bolt?
I'd like to know how long that bolt has been in it. IF I'm recalling the number not matching correctly. l.o.l.. , I saw the number on the bolt today and didn't compare again.
It's worn from use. Not badly in my opinion. But if put in new /refurbished by a qualified armorer , it's been in there a while.

 

[releventchair]

The other honing/filing.

Opposite side of receiver from carrier contact/hitting on the gas tube point. (Not to be confused with the gas tube ahead of receiver where piston flared end is.)
Bolt rail shows shiny wear an inch or so from corner of trunnion corner. A slight wire/rolled edge aside it.
I'm reluctant to remove stock in reciever area but dressed it flush.

Ahead of that wear and where bolt rail on that side ends just shy of trunnion corner was a triangle shaped shelf sticking out towards chamber lug/entrance about three millimeters (?).
Shiny surfaced .
A J /hook shape almost with hook the triangle shape.
I looked at another rifles rail to be sure it was not supposed to be there.
Tight to work it and not rub the lug the chamber is in.
Bolt did not show wear from hitting there with a cursory glance. Including inside the bolts groove.


My guess is that when the carrier hit the tube on the one side , the bolt pivoted/yawed toward the opposite side. And somehow stomped downward on that corner.

 

[Retired Sarge]

Wow, that makes you wonder.....

Yeah I know what you mean, I've had to compare two or more rifles to see if what I was looking at was wrong, bad, etc. Got to wonder how some of these rifles worked with obvious issues or how it got that way to start with.

 

[releventchair]

Robust designs and over engineering in critical areas help keep some thunking along.

I called time yesterday but looking harder at the extractor is next. It has a couple mills it could retract more of to seat flush with the bolt.
My question is if it needs to, by checking for wear beyond it's side.
Edge of extractor didn't show unusual wear , but gotta check anyways.