Summer Project

Another question…..what kind of file are you using on the inlay? Can’t be a normal file can it? Almost anything is hard enough to cut gold, but where’s the line that you don’t scratch steel?
 
Another question…..what kind of file are you using on the inlay? Can’t be a normal file can it? Almost anything is hard enough to cut gold, but where’s the line that you don’t scratch steel?
It’s a #3 Grobet file made in Switzerland. I use the #3 on the gold. When I start coming in contact with the steel I switch to a finer #4. The scratch lines I make in the steel with the #4 are very fine. Fine enough that I can go over them with 600 grit paper and they disappear.
 
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I started on the fourth flat this morning. It’s all undercut but I ran out of gold wire. I have more ordered and it should be here Tues. Mon if I’m real lucky. I ordered 12” of 24 ga. I’ll pull that through my draw plate and I’ll end up with around 30” of smaller dia. My draw plate is metric and I’ll end with .35mm wire for the rest of the inlays. It’s more economical to buy larger dia and draw it yourself. The 12” of 24 ga 24K gold wire cost $264. That’s $22/in. I’m hoping that will be enough to finish the job.
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I rec’d my wire. The first thing you have to do is anneal it with an alcohol lamp.
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Next, the end of the wire has to be sanded to a point so it will start through the die. After every draw, it has to be annealed and repointed. Then you can pull it through the next die.
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The wire comes in US wire size. This was 24ga or .020. My drawplate is made in Germany and is metric. For the inlays on this gun I draw to .35mm. Going to school in Italy, I was forced to learn metric. I still use metric for all of my layouts. Here’s the wire ready to use. It’s annealed and very soft.
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I finished up the 4th flat and hope to finish the final one today. Then I’ll go back and touch up everything. I’ll be glad to finish the repetitive cylinder.
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The cylinder is finished. Polished and ready for bluing. I’m heading down to the gunsmith today. I have several things that need bluing. I’ll take the cylinder and get it blued even though I’m not finished with the frame. This will give the owner a sneak preview.
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And I’m thinking about the design for the trigger guard.
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I took a week off but I’m back to working on the frame. I layed out the designs on the left side and scribed them in yesterday. I’ll probably lay out everything and scribe it before I start cutting.
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The cylinder is finished. Polished and ready for bluing. I’m heading down to the gunsmith today. I have several things that need bluing. I’ll take the cylinder and get it blued even though I’m not finished with the frame. This will give the owner a sneak preview.View attachment 2206289

And I’m thinking about the design for the trigger guard.View attachment 2206290
Interested in why you don't do the bluing process yourself, or is it really a hard process to perfect?
 
Interested in why you don't do the bluing process yourself, or is it really a hard process to perfect?
I used to engrave at a gunsmith shop. He did bluing and I helped. It’s a hot job in the summer. Bluing salts are nasty. The stuff creeps out of the tank between uses. I used the same gunsmith for many yrs. He blued often and didn’t charge much since I did all the polishing. No mess for me. He passed and this is a new guy I’m going to. It will be more money now but I’ll pass that cost on to the customer.
 
I used to engrave at a gunsmith shop. He did bluing and I helped. It’s a hot job in the summer. Bluing salts are nasty. The stuff creeps out of the tank between uses. I used the same gunsmith for many yrs. He blued often and didn’t charge much since I did all the polishing. No mess for me. He passed and this is a new guy I’m going to. It will be more money now but I’ll pass that cost on to the customer.
Thanks for the explanation.
I was kind of thinking that the bluing wasn't the greatest thing to be messing with.
 
Thanks for the explanation.
I was kind of thinking that the bluing wasn't the greatest thing to be messing with.
It takes 3 long narrow tanks, all with burners underneath. One with soap to degrease, one with plain rinse water, and one with the salts. Temp of salts and concentration of salts to water ratio is critical. It takes 30-45 min in the blueing tank. It’s called black oxide and first came out around WW2.
 
I have everything laid out except for an area on the side plate. I’m not sure what the customer wants there. Possibly an animal or a bird.🤔 That will be the last thing I engrave. For now I’ll cut the designs and start inlaying them.
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I went and picked up gun parts my gunsmith just reblued. I had him do the cylinder so my customer could get a sneak preview. It came out very nice. More to come as I start inlaying the frame.View attachment 2208962

Simply awesome.....Enough said!
 
I dug out a Korean honeysuckle a few days ago and messed up my back. Invasive bush/tree and the roots were on their way to Korea.😫 I’m just now getting back to working on this again. This is the backstrap. I’ll inlay something higher up on the knuckle later. I think the trigger guard is next.
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I dug out a Korean honeysuckle a few days ago and messed up my back. Invasive bush/tree and the roots were on their way to Korea.😫 I’m just now getting back to working on this again. This is the backstrap. I’ll inlay something higher up on the knuckle later. I think the trigger guard is next.View attachment 2209395
Work smarter not harder.
Hope it's a short term issue.
I find a heavy noose, long rope, trailer hitch on the Tundra takes care of rooting out shrubs. 😁
 

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