Bazooka Highbanker Manifold

[TheForSaken]

So after my headerbox failed to perform with satisfactory results, I ended up picking up a bunch of pvc tubing, connectors and a ball valve.
Whipped up together this manifold highbanker fitted for my prospector.
Unfortunately we've been getting rain everyday here so haven't had a chance to field test it as of yet.
Feeling comfortable that this design will perform better than my previous attempt at highbanking my bazooka. Hoping that having complete control of the flow for the fluid bed and separate control for the upper slick plate will be a winner.
I'll be running a 190 GPM pump, anyone with experience with this type of setup?
As soon as I can make it out, I'll post up vids.

 

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[Goodyguy]

Looks good

What pump are you going to use?
Have you made a stand for the bazooka?

Will be looking forward to seeing your results

GG~

 

[TheForSaken]

Looks good

What pump are you going to use?
Have you made a stand for the bazooka?

Will be looking forward to seeing your results

GG~

Will be using a honda ept3-50ha 2" 190gpm
Was hoping I could just run it directly on the ground. But I'll be bringing with me extra buckets if I feel the need to have to elevate it off the ground

 

[HMiller]

That's the idea I had kicking around in my head. Looking forward to your results. Good job so far. :thumbup:

 

[KevinInColorado]

Yup, I built the Sniper version of this and it works. Run it really flat and paw the rocks off. Only go steeper IF you have water flowing over the top of the grizzly area. Otherwise getting steep will lose gold due to the diverter not getting enough water flow.

 

[TheForSaken]

Got out for about an hour before getting rained out.
The pvc going directly into the trap along with the ball valve does indeed help fluidizing the trap. It catches gold nicely.
Not liking the way the spray bar is spitting out the water so gonna modify that and also add a damper to help settle the water flow to help ease the turbulence.
Gonna post new vid on my next outing.
https://youtu.be/hBWNhzAFbJE

 

[Goldwasher]

ok...my mom happens to be here watching the video when it came on...she say's ..."isn't that gonna blow out gold??"

You caught on to the turbulence issue. Problem with a damper is it kills your material feed area.

Since it looks like you have decent walk up access. I would take an old sluice and remove the rifles etc. or a flume of some sort. Introduce your water to it and feed material there. Put a damper at the end of it.right where that material will enter the bazooka deck. It will give the water and material more time to settle.. It will reduce the choking and stoppage of material you are getting at the grizzly. That is another cause of fine gold loss gold won't make it into the trap. Cool if you have already noticed your getting more gold. But, man that is some frothy water.

Also keep in mind that the middle tube in your trap is going to have way more pressure and flow than the side tubes. You could try to make some sort of blockage in your middle pipe to even out the input. It's going to be hard to gauge whats going on with the water as frothy as that.

looks good though, if it works great! Getting smoother water should get you to the best recovery.

 

[TheForSaken]

Edited to add this picture instead.
What do you think about me adding a washer inside the middle pipe?
Think this would be close to equalizing all 3 pipes equally?

 

[Goldwasher]

nice that might just do it

 

[russau]

Edited to add this picture instead.
What do you think about me adding a washer inside the middle pipe?
Think this would be close to equalizing all 3 pipes equally?
View attachment 1336259

If you could add a valve and PSI gauge to each outlet , that would allow you to perfectly tune each tube to your needs!Plus Id leave the washers out for max flow to each valve /PSI gauge !!

 

[Goldwasher]

exactly what we thought of...but then you got this thing with valves and gauges and more moving parts. All things that lead to issues in the field. great for DYI but, problematic for commercial production of units.

 

[russau]

HMMMM?? Easier to adjust a valve and look at the PSI gauge and see how the device is working than to change washers if its not up-2-snuff............for me anyway!

 

[Goldwasher]

or you could use a psi gauge to set what size washer you need. The outer tubes aren't an issue really. Keep in mind with three valves every adjustment will affect the psi in other tubes and back and forth and so on.

 

[TheForSaken]

I'm not familiar on exactly how psi gauges work. Can they be installed upstream of the trap and still give an accurate reading? Or would I have to have the trap tubes continue through the trap and install gauges downstream?

 

[Goldwasher]

upstream...sure sounds like something you want to deal with doesn't it?

 

[TheForSaken]

upstream...sure sounds like something you want to deal with doesn't it?

Haha, still debating.
Imma try just with the washer first and see how that works out. I'm gonna bring various sizes.
Right now I'm cutting and bending metal to add extra lenght to give me 4 more feet to help with my turbulence issue, will be adding a damper also midway.
But I'm pretty confident that a simple washer will get me close to where I want to be.

 

[Goldwasher]

Btw the tube pressure is 5 yo 7 psi...so keep in mind regardless of any fear you read in posts it's pretty difficult to under pressureize the trap...with a manifold it is easy to over pressureize. I would have a valve for the trap to get it flowing first...then a valve for the deck water. Keeping in mind when you open the deck valve you will lose some volume/pressure to the trap.

 

[Clay Diggins]

Edited to add this picture instead.
What do you think about me adding a washer inside the middle pipe?
Think this would be close to equalizing all 3 pipes equally?
View attachment 1336259

KISS. Forget the holes and cut a slot along the length of the manifold. Cut the slot big enough so you have full pressure along the whole length.

Less turbulence and frothing down sluice and higher water volumes = better recovery. Control the wash process with dwell time/angle not with water pressure.

Holes plug up with debris leading to downtime for cleaning. A knife run along the slot will remove any debris without shutting down.

Heavy Pans

 

[Goldwasher]

that manifold feeds three different pipes that attach to the pipes in the bazooka's trap Barry. They have to have a seal to make the tubes work. Any water loss on the trap tubes would cause volume loss for the wash water. Thats the main problem with add on hibanker attachments on the bazooka. you need as much water going over the grizzly as you can get. Your Idea is great for a spray bar but he's making a manifold.

Unless I'm misunderstanding your comment.But this manifold is not to introduce water to the sluice deck its for the pressure tubes.

 

[Goldwasher]

So after my headerbox failed to perform with satisfactory results, I ended up picking up a bunch of pvc tubing, connectors and a ball valve.
Whipped up together this manifold highbanker fitted for my prospector.
Unfortunately we've been getting rain everyday here so haven't had a chance to field test it as of yet.
Feeling comfortable that this design will perform better than my previous attempt at highbanking my bazooka. Hoping that having complete control of the flow for the fluid bed and separate control for the upper slick plate will be a winner.
I'll be running a 190 GPM pump, anyone with experience with this type of setup?
As soon as I can make it out, I'll post up vids.
View attachment 1335187
View attachment 1335188
View attachment 1335189

see what he's got going on its for the bottom pipes