✅ SOLVED Can you spot the fake

monsterrack

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I don't know who came up with this idea, I read it on a post by someone that a thread should be started on this, so(CAN YOU SPOT THE FAKE). I hope my pics are good enough. I will post the answer in two days and answer any questions you have on any of the points. Thanks for looking8-) points 002.webppoints 004.webppoints 005.webp
 

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My eye went to number one first..for a few reasons including the flake pattern..but with just a photo and Zero other info..it is pretty easy to pass off a fake.. some people even put them in rock tumblers to remove hinge fractures and soak them in a bucket of rusty nails and water for patina.
If I wanted to slide one past I would put it dead center to play a trick on peoples natural way of thinking...
But.... I will go with number one ..also because it resembles types found west of him more than the others as well as the other reasons.
There is not many basal notched points comparatively in his area.
 
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Ya that was my guess as well. Once I saw the back of it after I had already guessed I was even more convinced.
 
Has Reaper cast his vote? I'm curious to see what the boys with the good eye balls say. My eyes are a work in progress. This is a fun post!
 
Another good way to hide hinges and other imperfections is by using bees wax. Heat it up and rub into the point. At least that's what I heard!!!
 
I hope this thread self destructs when we're done..LOL.
 
Modern flint knappers can even fool authenticators.
Points 3,4,and5 have dirt rubbed into the hinges possibly to make them look old on a photo. Easy to detect when holding the pt. though.
 
When he said he knew a flint knapper, I would want to go with #5, but I don't think he would just give the answer away like that. Each one has a decent reason or two to be a possible fake. I guess I'll go with #3 due to the the point made being off-center and crooked, as well as thick/dull looking. I would think a hunter would want the thing to stick into the target well, and #3 being that off-center may limit its function in penetrating a target. i can't wait to find out the answer. Thanks!
:thumbsup:
 
Even the ancients could not get past many step or hinge fractures and chunked them. It seems that is the ones I find.
 
Just an observation here... from what I've personally found as well as what I've seen in photos... points that spent most of their time in water tend to still have many hinges attached as compared to ones on dry land.
Especially in climates with temperature extremes..freeze and thaw..expand contract..
Their is exceptions depending on material..like "root beer" Flint for instance ...but in general that's what I've noticed.
 
Hey Gatorboy, can you fill me in on your definition of hinge
 
3, edge detail
 
Hey Gatorboy, can you fill me in on your definition of hinge

That's what I call the small partially seperated pieces that often extend from the edge of a flake scar.
Freeze and thaw cycles usually break off most of those if the point has spent hundreds or thousands of years in the ground.
 
Answer to Can you spot the fake

Well first I want to say I did this has a way of maybe helping someone not get burned and to see what kind of ways most people think they can spot a fake. I have been asked to authenticate a lot of collections so over the years I have seen a lot people get burned by fakery. So for me to be able to spot reproductions I had to know how repos. where made and antiqued, you know the old saying to catch a thief you have to think like a thief. I had to get first hand info by the pros. and let me tell you there are some good repro. folks out there. You can reproduce any thing from stone, bone, metal, patina, water wear, and all other elements . Most of your people that try to burn someone will not go the extra step it takes to cover all the base's of reproduction, but there are some that do. These folks will make a $15 repro. and do things with chemicals and abrasive that no one can tell for sure, just remember rock is old, so if someone makes a repro. it's still old rock, there is no way to test stone. As for other ways of testing if it is done right, and please don't take this the wrong way NO ONE CAN TELL FOR SURE. My best advise to someone who wants to buy artifacts is to trust the person you are buying from, because if they or you did not pick it up off the ground, who knows for SURE. In the artifact world it is a buyer beware market and that is for all artifacts. For example is this knifefinished goods 004.webpIt is made with all the right stuff deer antler, hide glue, and stone and it has been antiqued to look a little old.To the untrained eye they may buy it for something old, but they do not think that the elements it is made of would not last thru time in that good of shape. So has I have said before FOOL THE EYE AND YOU FOOL THE BRAIN. Here are some photos of other repros. that people have bought that they thought were old.fakes 002.webpEurasian bronze points FAKES.fakes 006.webpEskimo fishing lures FAKES. I could go on with other photos but I'm not just remember BUYER BEWARE. As for the fake points Gold Maven hit it on the head.other side 001.webpThey are ALL FAKES. I mislead you with a little word of find THE fake. Below is a before and after photo of some other points that where antiqued with little effort. Thanks to everyone for your post and time8-)before and after points 001.webpbefore and after points 004.webp
 
okay now give us a test with only one faker in a new thread cause it was kinda fun. Or have u showed us all your repros already.
 

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